Luxury Travel Review
Superb gourmet lunch at Paris tea salon
By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox
The Mariage Freres Marais shop and tea room
On a chilly winter Friday we skipped lunch in order to sample the offerings, in the late afternoon, at Tea Salon Mariage Freres Marais, a popular tea salon (and shop) on the Right Bank of Paris, France. While we were well acquainted with the company for its eternally crowded street facing tea shop it was the first time we ventured into the 150 meter establishment behind the shop. The tea salon, which occupied space on the ground and first floors and employed 20 staff, could accommodate up 32 people.
A collection of teapots from the tea museum
Before sitting down, we took a few minutes to climb up a narrow spiral staircase on the left side of the shop to a first floor tea museum where the company displayed items from the early days when the founders, Henri and Edouard Mariage, traveled the world in search of tea, as well as antiques donated by clients and friends. We were on the site of the original shop from the foundation of the company in 1854, a staff person explain.
Documents and memorabilia of Mariage Freres early days
The Marais tea salon we visited was established in 1986. Over the years, three others opened their doors in Paris: Mariage Freres Rive Gauche, 13 rue des Grands-Augustins, 75006; Mariage Freres Louvre, Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli, 75001; and Mariage Freres Etoile, 260 rue du Faubourg St-Honore, 75008.
The Snob Salad (click to enlarge)
Delicious match toast were served with the Snob Salad
In the tea salon, as in the shop, young men dressed in tailored pale linen suits, provided attentive and polite service. A limited menu was on offer from midday into the early evening. On the ground floor, the rear wall featured a tea canister display and counter. Small tables scrunched together in groupings of two or more made up the rest of the salon. A glass ceiling allowed the dim winter light in, making us wonder how pleasant the room would be in spring. After taking our coats one of the servers escorted us to a table on the right side of the room. An English speaking server provided us with a house copy The French Art of Tea which featured information on the nearly 700 teas on offer.
In the foreground, the glass teapot and glass teacups in a black tray while the more common teapot is in the background, filled with Marco Polo black tea
The Neige de Jasmin (Jasmine Snow) green tea was served in a glass teapot
I had a Snob Salad and my companion had a Nostalgie de Pondichery, both house specialties. His dish was served only between 3 p.m. and 6:30 p.m. It consisted of an assortment of mini sandwiches: duck foie gras, Empereur Chen Nung flavoured smoked chicken, Vert Provence tea flavoured vegetables, mini smoked salmon croque monsieur served with tea and a pastry from the Chariot Colonial. The Snob Salad consisted of duck foie gras, smoked salmon, shrimp, enoki mushrooms, saffron wheat, haricots verts (green beans), violet artichoke hearts and mesclun, Paris-Singapour tea vinaigrette, and Matcha green tea toast covered with a napkin and served on its own plate. On a subsequent visit, we ordered the Snob Salad (I couldn’t help myself), and a Louvre Club sandwich with smoked chicken, fromage frais flavoured with Empereur Chen Nung tea and coriander, crushed tomato spread, mesclun side salad with toasted pine nuts and bacon with tea and a pastry from the Chariot Colonial.
Nostalgie de Pondichery, a selection of tea sandwiches (click to enlarge)
Selecting a tea was a daunting experience given the vast selection on offer. On our first visit, we shared two types of tea. First, with the savory course, we had Neige de Jasmin (Jasmine Snow), a delicate green tea with Jasmin blossoms from China served in a glass tea pot. Glass tea pots were reserved for “spectacular teas” such as yellow teas, teas with flowers or teas with silver or gold, a staff person explained.
With the sweet course we had Marco Polo, a black tea with a mysterious blend of fruit and flowers from China and Tibet. There was also a Marco Polo Rouge made with red tea although we didn’t sample it that day. The Marco Polo was served in a French ceramic pot with a metal cover which kept the tea hot for up to one hour. A tea pot consisted of four cups of tea. Those with the tea leaves still in the pot, like our green tea, could be refreshed with hot water.
Etoile Mysteriuse Breton shortbread cheesecake with French meringue morsels, and raspberry coulis
Gold wrapped chocolate in raspberry sauce
We sampled the Carre D’Or 24 carats Dark chocolate entremets flavoured with Black Magic tea, salted butter caramel and chocolate cake wrapped with gold leaf, red currant coulis; Splendeur du Tibet Marco Polo tea infused creme brulee; and Etoile Mysteriuse Breton shortbread cheesecake glazed with “Very Beautiful” Fruit Tea, authentic French meringue morsels, and raspberry coulis. We liked everything prepared by Daniel Milliner, executive chef, and his team.
The salon’s teacup was branded as was the dinnerware
The Splendeur du Tibet Marco Polo tea infused creme brulee was our favorite dessert
The foie gras with the Matcha toast was the most memorable. Of the three salty dishes my favorite was the salad and my companion’s was the Nostalgie de Pondichery. Of the three desserts, our favorite was the creme brulee. We liked the Mariage Freres tea salon because in addition to an intimidating selection of world class teas and gourmet treats it offered us the flexibility of eating at the time of our choosing (assuming there was availability) rather than at the strict restaurant meal times. This was a convenient option when we had a busy day. While the selection was limited the quality was outstanding. We plan to return at the first opportunity. Tea Salon Mariage Freres Marais, 30 rue du Bourg-Tibourg,75004 Paris, France, www.mariagefreres.com, info@mariagefreres.com,+33 1 42 72 28 11
Right Bank boutique hotel my new Paris favorite
Article and photos by Josette King
Rue Royale and Place de la Concorde at night.
Although I am a regular visitor to Paris, it had been years since I had set foot around the Rue Royale, the short street that runs between Place de la Madeleine and Place de la Concorde, within the posh Right Bank enclave where the first and eight arrondissements meet. There, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore on one side, and Rue Saint-Honore on the other, share a directory of addresses that represent the Gotha of French and international haute couture. Then just around the corner, Place Vendome is home to some of the world’s most renowned jewelry houses (Cartier, Van Cleef and Arpels, Boucheron, Chaumet et al.).
The bedroom of the Opera Suite.
Being of one mind with Lady Windermere (“I can resist anything but temptation.”), I suppose I instinctively felt it best not to venture too far into this bastion of enticing luxuries until my recent stay at Le Burgundy, a five star boutique hotel that opened in 2010 on Rue Duphot, just off Rue Saint-Honore.
Originally, the winning argument for my choice of Le Burgundy was its in house spa, complete with 15 meter (50 foot) long swimming pool, hammam and sauna, a rarity among boutique properties in Paris.
The winter garden opened onto the dining room.
That it had already garnered a solid reputation for the luxury of its accommodations and excellence of its service had only faintly registered in my awareness, until I checked in. From the warm welcome of the doorman who relieved me from my bulky carry on bag before I had even made it through the front door to the reception staff who had me settled in my suite in record time, the tone was set. The service was attentive and unobtrusive every moment of my stay.
There was an arching waterfall at the far end of the pool.
My spacious second floor suite, Opera, (the eight suites were named after some of the most iconic nearby landmarks) was an intimate urban retreat decorated in an understated classic style with contemporary touches and the latest modern amenities. I especially enjoyed the vast bathroom with its top of the line whirlpool bathtub and oversized walk in shower with high pressure rain showerhead and six moveable body jets. And then, for the ultimate Parisian apartment luxury, the bedroom’s French doors opened onto an inviting private terrace surrounded by large tubs of lush shrubbery.
Place Vendome was only a few minutes’ walk from Le Burgundy
It was a pleasure to relax there between marathon visits at the nearby Musee du Louvre and Galerie Nationale du Jeu de Paume, a museum of contemporary arts.
And yes, I did enjoy window shopping around this chicest of Paris neighborhoods every time I stepped outside Le Burgundy. But beyond its privileged location and excellent accommodations and service, it was the unique indulgence of starting each day with an invigorating swim followed by a scented eucalyptus and citrus steam bath that propelled Le Burgundy to the top of my favorite Paris addresses.
Same outstanding seafood Paris restaurant, updated name
By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox
Chef Akihiro Horikoshi in the kitchen
A little over a year ago we visited Table d’Aki (see New Paris restaurant offered exceptional seafood in unassuming setting), a small Left Bank restaurant in Paris, France, and were impressed with the chef’s fish and seafood dishes. On our return to the restaurant almost a year later, we were pleased to enjoy an outstanding seafood meal.
When we arrived for our early lunch (12 noon) we noticed the restaurant had a new name. Instead of Table d’Aki it was Table d’Akihiro. When we asked about the change the chef explained that Aki is a diminutive of his first name and Akihiro is his full first name. That day, we found the chef alone and hard at work.
Perfectly prepared delicate scallops
It was Chef Akihiro Horikoshi who opened the door and welcomed us in; he took our coats, settled us down in a corner table and provided us menus. Moments later he took our order. He remained alone, cooking and serving, until we left. None of the other diners who arrived after we did seemed to mind.
The closely placed tables were set with all the necessary implements such as spotless tablecloths, napkins, cutlery and glasses. The small dining room ended in the chef’s open kitchen. It looked pristine. Single bulbs hung from the ceiling and heaters kept the place comfortable. The bathroom was immaculate.
We ordered the sole with a touch of flavorful curry
As before, the menu was limited to seafood and fish. That day, the choices were one appetizer option, two main course options and one dessert, all prepared by the chef himself.
We ordered one appetizer each, the same main course and shared a dessert which the chef kindly split in the kitchen. The appetizer was a scallop dish with a vegetable puree foam and three perfectly cooked scallops. The main dish was sole with Asian spices and a touch of curry. Dessert was a dacquoise, two layers of thin and light cake with a vanilla cream center.
A light dessert was perfect to complete lunch
Every dish was superlative, especially the scallop and fish. Had we realized how good the dessert would be we would have ordered one each. Table d’Akihiro (49, rue Vaneau, 75007, Paris, France, +33 1 45 44 43 48) is on our list of Paris seafood favorites for future visits. I would recommend it to our friends who are more concerned with the meal than an elaborate delivery and famous setting. What Chef Akihiro Horikoshi’s restaurant lacked in staff and elegant amenities it made up for manifold in outstanding food. In a city known for its many dining venues this small restaurant stood out for its perfectly prepared fare.
Happy New Year!
Happy New Year 2014
Wishing you a wondrous, healthy and safe 2014 from all of us at Simon & Baker Travel Review and Luxury Travel Review!
The art of making chocolate Alain Ducasse style in Paris
By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox
The courtyard outside Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse Manufacture a Paris
The heady odor of chocolate was the first thing I noticed as we entered the Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse Manufacture a Paris, Manufacture for short, on a commercial street in Paris, France. Located in one of the city’s lesser known (to tourists) east neighborhoods the Manufacture, 320 square meters in size, was a modern chocolate factory in the back and a gourmet chocolate shop in the front. We left our winter coats behind and donned special white coats to enter the inner sanctum where the master chocolate maker and a handful of young men worked in harmony.
Nicolas Berger roasting cocoa beans
On a chilly morning, Nicolas Berger, the master chocolate maker, welcomed us warmly in the roasting room. For a short while he explained the process that transformed the raw cocoa beans from exotic locations across the globe into distinctive gourmet chocolates that stood out for their unique flavors in a city where a myriad shops sell fine chocolates. Prior to launching the Manufacture, Berger worked at Payard in New York City. He then joined the Alain Ducasse company as pastry chef at the Essex House also in New York. He later became executive pastry chef at the Restaurant Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athenee hotel in Paris, France. Before that, he worked at Jean-Paul Hevin, Laduree, and Pierre Herme in France.
We watched chocolate being blended, smoothed and processed between roasting and the final product
He showed us the specialized equipment sourced with patience and effort and made in several countries: France, Germany, Italy and Switzerland. While we watched, he poured a container of 25 kilos of Madagascar cocoa beans into the toasting machine which processed 50 kilo batches at a time. A tiny amount of water was included in the process, he explained. The steam it produced killed any germs.
Bags of cacao beans marked with their country of origin stood like sentinels on the other side of the small room. A glass wall made it possible for customers to see the roasting room as they entered the courtyard that led to the boutique.
Trays of finished chocolates were displayed in the showroom
Following the roasting and separation of the shells and the beans in the roasting room the cocoa bean process continued in an adjacent area. The pure cocoa liquid went through several machines to be refined and blended with other ingredients, such as organic and biodynamic sugar from Brazil, and milk, depending on the outcome desired, into just the right consistency until eventually it was ready to be made into gourmet chocolate products. The initial refining process required about fifteen hours whereas the conching part of the process, which removed the thick gravely aspects, required at least twenty-four hours.
Fillings were coated, with great care, with a thin layer of chocolate
A variety of fillinging ran through an automated assembly line where each bite size morsel was coated with liquid chocolate. At the end of the line, staff removed the delicate product and prepared it for sale. Twenty-five flavors of individual chocolates were on offer. Production for December was expected to reach five or six tons. Nine staff, five in production and four in the shop, worked at Manufacture. While that might be a tiny amount in the chocolate industry where giant multinational companies produce huge quantities for commercial use and retail sale, it was the quality of the chocolate that we found impressive. We also appreciated being able to taste the classic single morsels of chocolate with filling in the place where they were made. More interesting at a personal level, was the variety of single source pure chocolates and how different the flavors where from each other.
The shop offered a seasonal chocolate tree kit for the holidays
In the spotless shop, a central temperature controlled case with multiple glass covers that were operated by the staff was home to individual pieces of chocolate in a variety of flavors such as lime, praline, tonka bean and vanilla. As we selected the flavors we wanted to sample a staff person carefully removed one piece at a time and placed it on a ceramic plate.
The tree was available in dark or milk chocolate. It could be assembled with the fruit and nuts facing up or down.
Left to right: The dark chocolate tree with nuts and fruit facing up and eatable dark chocolate Christmas tree ornaments
Along the left wall, there were sealed paper envelopes of single flavor chocolate bars from a variety of places of origin including Mexico, Peru and Venezuela, home of the well known Porcelana; Dominican Republic, Ecuador, Ivory Coast, Java, Madagascar, Sao Tome, Tobago, Trinidad, and Vietnam, all selected with care and emphasis on the quality of flavor (although the company made it a point of purchasing only cocoa beans harvested under fair labor practices), Berger explained with much enthusiasm.
The five single origin chocolate bars we sampled
The most popular single origin chocolate bar flavors were Porcelana du Perou 75 percent, Mendiant Almonds & Fruits dark chocolate and Perou non conche. A few days after our visit, we tasted five single origin chocolate bars of the 26 flavors available: Madagascar 55 percent milk chocolate, Madagascar 75 percent Ferme Bejofo Criollo chocolate, Peru 75 percent Trinitario, Sao Tome 75 percent Forastero Ameldonado, and Tradition Peru 75 percent non conche. We were surprised at how different the flavors were. In some ways, this chocolate tasting reminded us of a wine tasting. There were aspects of each bar we liked and subtle yet notable variations between the chocolates. Even the shade of the chocolate bars varied.
Chocolate and molds on display in the shop
While the Madagascar milk chocolate was smooth the dark chocolate from the same country had a hint of bitter and a slightly acid aftertaste. We thought there was a mild berry flavor in the Peru Trinitario which left a dry aftertaste. The Sao Tome had a rich, smoky flavor and a dry aftertaste as well. The non conche Peru bar was the most distinctive. Conche is a mixer and agitator that distributed cocoa butter within chocolate. Because that chocolate had not gone through the conching process it had a gritty texture. The flavor was full with dark and tart finish. One of us liked it especially while another liked it the least.
The interior of the shop
The nuanced flavors of the bite size chocolates are now fading in my memory. Fortunately, some chocolate bars survived the tasting. I will enjoy then while they’re still fresh and plan to revisit the shop at the next opportunity. When I’m in Paris again I’ll make a point of stopping by the shop to sample some of the flavors I didn’t have time to try and taste the ones I liked especially once again. As I think about it I liked all of the chocolate bar flavors so I may have to start from scratch. Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse Manufacture a Paris, 40, rue de la Roquette 75011 Paris, France, +33 1.48.05.82.86, http://www.lechocolat-alainducasse.com/en
Zambezi River luxury lodge offered abundant activities
Article and photos by Laura Scheiber
A giraffe keeping vultures away from her baby
For me, an ideal vacation includes a little rest and relaxation mixed in with adventurous activities. Perhaps this was why my stay at Tongabezi Lodge along the mighty Zambezi River in Zambia was so memorable. On the day of arrival at this luxury lodge, I met with Quentino Mbingi, the director of activities, who invited me to choose from a handful of activities ranging from the adrenaline pumping thrill of sitting on the edge of Victoria Falls to relaxing on a sunset boat cruise on the Zambezi River with sundowners. Quentino efficiently put together an itinerary that allowed me to partake in all of my preferred activities during my three day stay. Most activities were included in the room rate, along with meals, and drinks. Some activities offered by outside companies were available for an additional fee.
On my first day, I enjoyed a two hour sunset cruise on the beautiful Zambezi River. Four other guests and I hopped into a small motor boat on the dock at Tongabezi with Captain Victor, a soft-spoken friendly man who pointed out the many birds we observed along the bank. We meandered around a small island in the middle of the river, and Captain Victor positioned our boat within a few feet of crocodiles sunbathing on the sandbar. Without warning, one of the big crocodiles splashed in the water at lightening speed. I had quite the adrenaline rush. I would have felt scared if I hadn’t been in such good hands.
Captain Victor serving up sundowners
While stopping for sundowners in the middle of the river and watching the magnificent sunset, Captain Victor explained that he was a well-known crocodile hunter who had caught hundreds of crocodiles in his lifetime and set them free further down river away from human populations. I liked hearing his fascinating stories about crocodile (and snake) hunting while drinking a refreshing South African Sauvignon Blanc on the Zambezi River.
A crocodile sunbathing on the river bank
The next day I went on a private game drive in Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park, the second smallest in all of Zambia, and roughly 20 minutes from Tongabezi. I had hoped to see a rhinoceros since it was the only one of the Big Five that I had not seen during previous safari adventures in Zambia. My private gaming guide, Fabias, provided clear and interesting explanations of the animals we saw while stopping anytime I wanted to take pictures. Most memorable was when Fabias spotted a number of vultures flying high in the sky. He drove to where they were circling and a few minutes later, he spotted a giraffe in the distance herding a bunch of vultures on the ground. Curious to find out what was going on, he drove closer to the giraffe where we eventually saw a young giraffe that had died sometime within the previous 24 hours, according to Fabias. Though sad, we couldn’t help but watch the mother giraffe valiantly try to keep the vultures away from her baby.
My guide demonstrated where I should sit at the edge of the falls
After a two-hour game drive, Fabias drove me to the five-star Royal Livingstone Hotel where the management of Tongabezi surprised me with a complimentary gourmet lunch and tour of Livingstone Island, which departed from the Royal Livingstone. I, along with seven other guests, was chauffeured by motorboat to the island where, our tour guide, Collins, took us on a five-minute walk to the side of the island facing Victoria Falls. He offered wetsuits to those of us interested in sitting in the natural pools in the Zambezi River on the edge of the Falls. Our fearless leader walked us toward the edge that had a heart-pounding drop of 100 meters. The views were spectacular and we were treated to a double rainbow. Collins carefully led three of us, one by one, into the water where we sat about 15 feet away from the edge of the Falls. Scary? Yes. Exhilarating and unforgettable? Absolutely. After such an adrenaline pumping experience, we were served a delicious lunch of fresh green salads, couscous, fresh tilapia fish, grilled vegetables, and a sweet bread pudding as a dessert. A South African white wine went well with the fish.
The tiger fish I caught with Fabias
After we returned to Tongabezi, Fabias prepared a small motorboat for my private fishing excursion. It was a lovely late afternoon with ideal temperatures and a cloudless sky, perfect for a relaxing boat ride on the Zambezi River. Fabias patiently showed me how to work the fishing rod and explained Tongabezi’s catch and release fishing policy. Within minutes, I felt a tug on my fishing line and excitedly reeled in a tiger fish. Fabias took care of the not so pleasant task of unhooking the fish. Throughout the trip, I enjoyed sundowners of my choice and opted for a refreshing South African Sauvignon Blanc. The hour and a half fishing trip ended with a beautiful sunset. At the end of a day full of activities, I was pleasantly surprised to find a bottle of sparkling wine in a bucket of ice, and a candlelit hot bubble bath waiting for me in my room, compliments of Tongabezi.
My final river adventure was a private canoe trip. Quentino, a certified river guide, went over the safety rules and helped me into a small canoe, while Captain Victor was in a motorboat ahead looking out for crocodiles and hippos. Quentino welcomed me to paddle, but made it clear that it was not necessary if I preferred to relax and take in the tranquil scenery. After crossing the river towards the Zimbabwe side, Quentino pointed out a number of colorful birds that were fishing along the riverbank. On our way back to Tongabezi, we canoed through some reed-covered islands where hippos were resting on sandbanks about 50 feet away from us. It was exciting to be so close, but I was happy to keep a distance, as I knew how fast hippos could move. Between Captain Victor and Quentino I felt in good hands, as both had had years of training and experience as river guides.
Hippos sunbathing during my canoe trip
The only downside of my stay at Tongabezi Lodge was that it ended too soon. The location of this luxury lodge was ideal. Just 40 minutes upstream from the hustle and bustle of Victoria Falls, the lodge was close enough for activities associated with the UNESCO world heritage site, while far enough to explore the Zambezi River. Having an activities director who customized my itinerary added a personal touch that set Tongabezi apart from other lodges. The service was top notch and I plan on returning someday to partake in the activities I did not include during this first visit.
