Luxury Travel Review
Paris Latin Quarter gourmet shop new favorite
By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox
Bellota Bellota in the Latin Quarter (click photo to enlarge)
On a recent trip to Paris, France we ventured to Bellota-Bellota, a new gourmet shop with on site dining in the Latin Quarter (Bellota-Bellota Saint Germain, 64 rue de Seine, 75006 Paris, France, +33 1 46 33 49 54, www.bellota-bellota.com, aszabo@bellota-bellota.com). From the sidewalk we could see through a large display window. The distinctive azulejo tiles and hanging hams in the decor were a sign of the treasure trove of domestic and imported goodies housed inside. When we first arrived in between meal times we had the dining area and shop mostly to ourselves. Despite the touristy location there was a steady trickle of French customers picking up supplies to go. Such was the case with two gorgeous poodles who were as fond of the shop’s famed dry aged distinctive hams imported from Spain as their owner.
Watching the Bellota slicing is part of the fun
We relied on the staff’s knowledge and advice in our extended late afternoon tasting. We started with the shop’s seafood products. First, there were three varies of Tarama (a creamy spread made with roe), natural, lobster and truffle. We were lucky to be able to sample them all. The server explained they didn’t always carry the lobster Tarama. The wild Alaska salmon eggs were non pasteurized (though previously frozen). The sliced-by-hand Norwegian salmon, farm raised in an area with many currents, was memorable. Double smoked in Germany with elderwood it had a rich, well rounded flavor without greasiness.
The three varieties of Tarama we tasted
Wild Alaskan salmon eggs
Spanish pork products were next. Gijuelo, a 58-month chorizo, Fayet from Catalonia (from a Celtic pig), lomito (pork loin from the end of the filet), and lomo, pork loin aged 20 months and vacuum packed, were next. The Fayet, somewhat hard and aged, was flavorful. Although we enjoyed all of them the lomo was our favorite. They were served with a homemade tomato blend of French tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, and salt flavored with rosemary, thyme, basil and laurel.
Two different cuts of the Norwegian Salmon
A selection of Spanish pork products with crackers and homemade tomato dip
A volcano shaped dish designed by Bernardeau on Limoges porcelain was born from an idea by Phillipe Poulachon, the Bellota-Bellota founder. The plate had space in the middle for a votive candle to gently warm the fragrant bellota ham in order to enhance the flavor. The warmth of the candle, a staff member explained, should make the fat of the ham translucent at 28 Celsius, the ideal temperature, and display the product to its best advantage. We sampled pata negra Grand Crus from the Guijuelo region of Spain and Bellota-Bellota from Huelva and Jabugo. The small portions disappeared as if by magic from the table. It was served with crystal bread without leavening.
The special volcano shaped serving plate (click photo to enlarge)
A different cut of meat on the volcano (click photo to enlarge)
The bellota hams were selected from among the best produced in Spain, the shop specialist explained. The company trained its staff to identify ideal hams by using a horse bone, known as a cala, to pierce the seven veins in a pork leg. He demonstrated the process on one of the ham legs in the shop, inviting us to note the variations in the different hearty vein smells. Thirty percent of the original weight of the pork meat is lost to the dry aging process, he went on to explain. Some studies in Spain, he mentioned, suggest the oleic acid in the pork may be good for heart health.
The staff demonstrated piercing the ham to check the curing process
The scents of the ham from different testing points were intense
We also sampled delicious Pluma de Pata Negra rare grilled steaks with a heavenly scent prepared at the shop. They were made from frozen as only 600 grams of pluma were produced from each Iberico de Bellota ham, the staff person told us. They were tender and oh so flavor filled. They were served with Pimientos de Padron green peppers (also from frozen), and mashed potatoes with olive oil.
Pluma de Pata Negra rare grilled steaks
Sharp cheeses from Spain, that matched the powerful deli meats, closed the savory portion of our tasting menu. There were two types of manchego and a torta d’Extremadura from Salamanca. The strong Extremadura cheese, made with raw ewe’s milk, was aged 60 days and turned by hand daily. The cheeses were served with quince jam.
Manchego cheese with quince jam
The staff selected Spanish wines to match our tasting: Pago Vallegarcia made from 100 percent vignior from Toledo, and a red Bassus Premium, a spicy blend of bobal, cabernet sauvignon, shiraz and petit verdot grapes from Utiel Requera from Valencia; a red 2007 Coma Vella (priorato) made with grenach, cabernet sauvignon, carinera, syrach from south of Barcelona. To complete our tasting, we had Spanish turrones (nougat) from Alicante and Girona followed by French Madeleine pastries made with honey harvested by handicapped artisanal makers from Les Cevennes, France.
A selection of Spanish wines and champagne was available
From beginning to end the tasting was a delight. The cheeses, salmon, Tarama, and salmon eggs were free of preservatives. Our favorites were in no particular order the double smoked salmon back, the 20-month aged lomo and the aged Bellota-Bellota Grand Cru hams.
New Serengeti, Ngorongoro bird book published
Birds of the Serengeti
A good bird field guide is a superb addition to a safari. Many game viewing destinations offer optimum bird viewing. While the feathered creatures are often overlooked by first time visitors to Africa who are preoccupied with the ever popular search for the Big Five, bird viewing presents its own worthy challenges and rewards worth exploring.
Travelers to Tanzania interested in bird viewing may want to have a copy of Birds of the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Conservation Area (Princeton University Press, $20.93) by Adam Scott Kennedy. The 224-page softcover book published last month features 480 color photos, many of them by the author, of 264 species of birds. Images include breeding and non breeding plumage.
The book is divided into: Birds of the Plains; Birds of the Marsh and Water; Birds of Woodland, Scrub and Garden; Birds of Acacia Scrub; Village Birds; Forest and Crater Highlands Birds; Birds of the Air; Night Birds; and Lake Victoria Specials. Some of the sections, such as Village Birds, feature only two types of birds.
Kennedy and his wife, Vicki Kennedy, are private wildlife and photography safari guides. Prior to that they were managers of remote luxury safari camps in Tanzania and Kenya. They are coauthors of Animals of the Masai Mara (see New Masai Mara bird book available).
Click to buy Birds of the Serengeti
Safari property within restored southern Malawi reserve off beaten path
Photos by Josette King
The lodge was reached via a suspension footbridge over the Mkulumadzi River
The recently restored Majete Wildlife Reserve in southern Malawi remains mostly undiscovered by tourists. Mkulumadzi offered accommodations within a 7,000 hectare (27 square mile) private concession with exclusive tourism rights in one the most spectacular areas of the repopulated wilderness area.
Josette’s room featured a well appointed pantry
Designed to minimize its impact on the environment while offering high levels of creature comforts, the property also focused on serving healthful, refined international dishes with a pan African accent. Beyond game viewing our contributor especially appreciated Mkulumadzi’s responsible tourism practices and guest centered service.
Famed management company, promising new chef lead well known luxury Paris hotel restaurant
By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox
A table at Restaurant le Meurice Alain Ducasse
The previous time we had dined at restaurant Le Meurice, in 2011, a different chef was in charge. On our return at the end of 2013, subtle decorative changes in the beautiful dining room of the restaurant of the Hotel Le Meurice on the famed Rue de Rivoli in Paris, France reminded me that food industry icon Alain Ducasse had assumed control of the hotel kitchens. Among them were new Baccarat crystal pieces and an elaborately made panel near the entrance which itself was next to the revolving doors of the hotel entrance, discreetly behind the greeter’s stand.
The service was attentive and precise
The staff members were helpful and attentive with a healthy amount of reserve. The new menu at le Meurice focused on produce, the producers themselves and the seasons. Langoustines, a spokesperson explained, will only appear on the menu if they can be delivered alive. The olive oil from Sicily is exclusive to the restaurant.
We had a steamed vegetables appetizer
Our meal was well prepared and served. We particularly enjoyed the steamed vegetable appetizer and the meat dishes. For example, the venison (chevreuil) was cooked just right and served with a peppercorn sauce that brought out the game meat flavor without overwhelming it. The chicken with white truffles was fragrant and tender. The sauces in both cases were outstanding.
The cheese cart
The wine specialists were notable for their selections and customer centered service. We especially liked the wine pairings with the meal. We look forward to a return visit to Restaurant le Meurice Alain Ducasse under its new management and chef.
Pumulani on Lake Malawi offered luxury comforts, enviable setting
Photos by Josette King
Our contributor’s sitting room opened onto a secluded side deck
At Pumulani, a lake shore property in Malawi, a landlocked country in Southern Africa, part of the experience was the location. The country itself is among the less trekked destinations in the region, making it particularly attractive for exploration oriented travelers.
The pool was just below the lodge
When our contributor wasn’t soaking in the ambiance she took advantage of the activities on offer including sunset cruises, in a dhow and a motor boat; a visit to the village; and star gazing. She rose early to swim in the pool at dawn. The swims and the setting combined were a treat unlike anything she had experienced anywhere in Africa. There was also an outstanding beach.
The traditional dhow sailed around the lake
There were many aspects of her stay at Pumulani she liked. The property setting was stellar. It seemed ideal for someone, who like her, was willing to travel the distance to Malawi and wanted to enjoy first world creature comforts, and guest centered service in a property that followed responsible tourism practices.
Exploring leafy greens recipe book
By Elena del Valle
Food photos by Gary Cox
The Complete Leafy Greens Cookbook*
According to many reputable sources, leafy greens such as collard greens, kale, Brussels sprouts, Swiss chard and their kin are at the heart of a healthy and nutritious regime. For us, purchasing, identifying and eating greens has proved challenging at times. Becoming familiar with the different varieties and how to buy them was a first step. Next, knowing how to eat them to their best advantage requires additional effort and knowledge. Sometimes they are bitter, chewy or tough in their raw state. Other times they’re boring. Some leafy greens need preparation to become palatable. We turned to The Complete Leafy Greens Cookbook 67 Leafy Greens & 250 Recipes (Robert Rose, $27.95), a newly published cookbook by Susan Sampson, for information and recipe ideas.
Kale leaves cleaned and ready to make crisps
We made kale crisps with sesame seeds following a recipe in the book
The Complete Leafy Greens Cookbook is a softcover 480-page book filled with nutritional information, easy to read recipes and color photos. The leafy greens we wanted to learn more about were collard greens, baby bok choy and kale.
Susan Sampson, author, The Complete Leafy Greens Cookbook*
For example, we had been eating kale crisps for a while when we first came across the Cookbook. Its kale crisps recipe was similar to the one we were using. One of the options suggested in the book was to add sesame seeds. We tried it and liked it. The sesame seeds add a crunchy nutty flavor to the crisps and a twist to the everyday plain crisps.
The grilled baby bok choy with soy glaze
The collard greens cooked in beef broth while not pretty were delicious
We also sampled the Kaleslaw recipe. It required relatively little time and offered yet another way to supplement our diet with nutritious kale. The Old School Collard Greens were delicious (we used beef broth). Next, we tried the Baby Bok Choy with Soy Glaze recipe which required Shaoxing cooking wine. We grilled the baby bok choy on the barbeque grill instead of cooking it in a bowl as the recipe indicated. It was quite nice although the leaves were a bit chewy. Next time, we’ll slice the large ones into quarters instead of halves. The soy glaze seems promising to use in other dishes to add a dash of flavor. Although we excluded pepper, chili paste and spicy hot condiments from the recipes we prepared we liked them. They were all worth repeating.
*Photos: robertorse.ca
Click to buy The Complete Leafy Greens Cookbook
