by Editor | Apr 1, 2013 | Accomodations, New Articles, Restaurants
Article and photos by Josette King
Our terrace had a stunning view of the Amalfi coastline
After decades of saying “some day,” I was finally wending my way along Amalfi Drive. Now officially known as Strada Statale 163, this rapid succession of hairpin turns originally carved by the Romans from the side of towering cliffs rising out of the Tyrrhanian Sea is widely recognized as one of the most spectacular coastal roads in Europe. Each turn revealed more eye-popping scenery. Isolated farmhouses and medieval watchtowers clung to the vertical rock face above, while whitewashed villages tumbled straight down to the sea below. Then on a rare stretch of straight road on the outskirts of Amalfi, an elegant three-story white stone facade appeared at the edge of the cliff. I had arrived at Italy’s version of Eden: the legendary Santa Caterina Hotel.
The Al Mare Restaurant terrace
Built into a 60 meters (200 feet) vertical cliff, the century-old property was a sumptuous multi-level complex of terraced citrus groves and lush gardens that started on Almalfi Drive to end with a saltwater swimming pool and private beach at the water’s edge. The hotel had the timeless grace of a classic Mediterranean villa, with light-filled open spaces, vaulted ceilings and arched floor-to-ceiling glass doors opening onto terraces that extended toward the sea. In the common areas as well as in my own suite, pale Majolica tile floors sprinkled with hand-painted flowers, and white walls and ceilings provided an understated background to better showcase the antique furniture and artworks interspersed throughout. But beyond its breathtaking surroundings and exquisite decor, the distinctive charm of the Santa Caterina came from its people, management and staff alike, for whom the property has always been a family affair. Giuseppe Gambardella originally built the villa in 1880, only to see it destroyed by a rock slide a decade later.
A soaring ceiling enhanced the airy feel of the suite
In 1904, his son Crescenzo personally rebuilt it in a safer location farther up the coast. He included six guest rooms, and the Santa Caterina was born. Fast forward through the 20th century, during which the Gambardella family continuously expanded and enhanced the property to make it the glamorous luxury resort with 66 guest rooms and suites that we enjoy today. Along the way, Crescenzo’s daughters, Giuseppina (Giusi) and Carmella (Ninni) assumed the direction. Now their own children, and more recently grandchildren, hold various positions to carry on the family tradition.
So it is with the staff as well. Many have been at the Santa Caterina for decades, in some cases for two or more generations, an extended part of the Gambardella family, upholding the tradition of flawless service for which the hotel is famous. There is no improvising this unique type of gracious hospitality. It makes me think of the doorman who not only stood with umbrella at the ready, but also profusely apologized for the rain, as though he considered it a personal shortcoming that he had failed to deliver perfect weather every day of my visit.
The Santa Caterina Restaurant dining room
The Santa Caterina Restaurant was equally brilliant. Not only did its scenic dining room offer a fabulous view of the old city of Amalfi and the Gulf of Salerno, but it was also one of the best restaurants in town. Whether for lunch or dinner, Chef Domenico Cuomo and his team showcased the excellent traditional cuisine of the area, prepared to order from seasonal ingredients and the latest catch of local fishermen, as well as irresistible home made pasta dishes. There again the service was impeccable: attentive, friendly and precisely paced to ensure a superb dining experience, and a wonderful antidote to the standard tourist fare dished out in abundance all along the coast.
It was a restaurant well worth return visits, even if I didn’t have the good fortune to be a guest at the Santa Caterina; which of course would be most unlikely. Now that I have experienced the unique hospitality of the Gambardella family and staff, I couldn’t imagine staying anywhere else on the Amalfi coast. Rather, I yearn to return to the welcoming embrace of the Santa Caterina as the first opportunity; and yes, it’s nice that the idyllic vistas of the Amalfi coast just happen to be included.
by Editor | Mar 25, 2013 | Restaurants
By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox
The entrance of Le Clarisse
The first thing we noticed about Restaurant Le Clarisse was the wall window that allowed us to see the interior of the dining room from the seventh arrondisement street as we walked toward the entrance. Once inside, the contemporary decor with wood floors, high ceiling, light filled room, wallpaper, metal chandeliers, cushioned built-in seats and armless chairs and unadorned black wood tables with gray runners in lieu of tablecloths drew our attention. When we reached our narrow dining space we appreciated that a staff person had taken our winter coats.
The place settings were simple but elegant
While we perused the menu and sipped on aperitif drinks accompanied by Baby Scallops and Gamba Carpaccio bites we observed the pretty silverware and dinnerware, central red bar, recessed lights, street view that mirrored the one we had seen from the outside, and a partial loft space with additional guests upstairs. The wine list concentrated mainly on French selections ranging from 36 to 700 euros. There was also a sake list with twelve choices available chilled by the glass and by the bottle.
There was a dried ham by the window
A young woman offered us crusty bread with sesame seeds, poppy seeds or country bread. She refilled our bread plates often although no butter or oil were on offer.
An amuse-bouche
Following the amuse-bouche, we had Carpaccio de langoustines, gelee de ponzu (Carpaccio of Dublin Bay prawns, ponzu sauce); Ravioles legumieres, carottes, curcuma, coriandre, celeri rave, curry, romarin et agrumes (Small ravioli with vegetables, carrots, curcuma, celeriac, curry and citrus fruit). Served in a light bouillon they were buttery and light. One was spicy.
Carpaccio de langoustines, gelee de ponzu
Ravioles legumieres, carottes, curcuma, coriandre, celeri rave, curry, romarin et agrumes
Noix de Saint Jacques, eclats de noix, taboule de quinoa rouge, couteaux, blettes rouges, reduction de cidre et pousses de shizo (Scallops with walnuts, red quinoa tabbouleh with razor clams, Swiss chard, cider sauce and shizo leaves) were mildly crunchy, toasted with a rich flavor and served on a white plate. La joue de boeuf, marinade bourgogne et lavande, shiro-miso en neige (Ox cheek braised in pinot noir and lavender, beaten shiro-miso) was prepared with a satisfying hearty sauce and a chestnut puree we enjoyed.
Noix de Saint Jacques, eclats de noix, taboule de quinoa rouge, couteaux, blettes rouges, reduction de cidre et pousses de shizo
La joue de boeuf, marinade bourgogne et lavande, shiro-miso en neige
The exotic fruit crumble with whipped cream was crispy, lightly sweet and barely tart. The Souffle au chocolate (Chocolate souffle) had brown sugar on the rim, cassis ice cream and white chocolate coulis.
The exotic fruit crumble
Chef Sadaki Kajiwara
We liked the restaurant’s modern decor, attentive service, English speaking staff and well prepared and presented French meal. What surprised and will draw us back were the Japanese ingredients Chef Sadaki Kajiwara added to the dishes to make them distinctive. In addition, we found the seven-course menu for 79 euros good value for money. Le Clarisse (29, rue Surcouf, 75007 Paris, France, + 33 1 45 50 11 10, www.leclarisse.fr, contact@leclarisse.fr) will be on our short list anytime we are in the neighborhood.
by Editor | Jan 21, 2013 | Accomodations, New Articles, Restaurants
Article and photos by Josette King
The property was located on three terraced levels
The Romantik Hotel and Spa les Violettes was the last stop on the itinerary of my recent visit to Alsace, France. I had spent a few days taking in the rich medieval art and architecture for which the area is renowned and enjoying its glorious wines and traditional cuisine (Paté de foie gras originated here in the 18th century). Les Violettes was just the right place to unwind before returning to Paris. Nestled in the densely forested foothills of the Vosges Mountains at the edge the Route des Vins (Alsace’s famed Wine Road), yet a mere 25 kilometers (16 miles) from Colmar, the property boasted superb spa facilities. In addition to three saunas with various heat and moisture levels, a steam room and whirlpool bath, there was an unusual halotherapy salt-cave and a grand counter-current indoor-outdoor pool that was a swimmer’s dream. The spa also had six private treatment rooms where it offered a range of massages, facials and body treatments.
The Les Violettes bar sat in the corner of the open plan lounge
Then there was Le Jardin des Violettes, the property’s outstanding restaurant. In a region that has long held bragging rights for being home to an exceptional density of noted chefs and multi-award restaurants, Le Jardin des Violettes exceeded my expectations. The elegant dining room was decorated in warm shades of cinnabar and taupe that gave the formal space a cozy atmosphere. Subtle indirect lighting filled the room with a faint rosy glow that enhanced the formal table setting and provided just the right touch of romance to showcase the exciting creations of Chef Jérôme Jaeglé.
Chef Jerôme Jaeglé
Before taking over at Le Jardin des Violettes in early 2012, this talented young chef still in his early thirties, accumulated impressive credentials, including working as chef at Jean Yves Schilinger (a Colmar institution) and at Christian Têtedoie in Lyon. He found time to excel in some of the most respected French and international culinary competitions. A two-time winner of the National Taitinger Competition (in 2006 and 2008), recipient of a bronze medal in the Paul Bocuse European competition in 2010, he went on to take fourth place in the 2011 Bocuse Worldwide event. But through it all, this Colmar native maintained his passion for the bounty of the Alsatian countryside. During my visit, he explained that he lets the seasonable availability of locally sourced products guide his creativity. And he leads his team into foraging expeditions in the forests surrounding Les Violettes to gather the wild mushrooms and commercially unavailable greens that give his cuisine its unique cachet.
Foie gras on jellied green tea
I dined twice at Le Jardin des Violettes, and from amuse-bouche to dessert, each dish was an imaginative creation that delighted the eye and the palate. A light base of jellied green tea offset a rich nugget of paté de foie gras; chestnuts enhanced a wild mushroom duxelle, a simple mousseline of potatoes rose to the culinary stratosphere when whipped with walnut oil and garnished with oxalis (tiny wood sorrel leaves with a tangy, peppery taste). I can still taste a divine grilled filet of red snapper served with its skin deeply scored into julienne strips and caramelized crackling-style, while the tender white fish beneath was cooked to delicate perfection. And how could I forget his sublime cassolette (small casserole) filled with a fricassee of freshly gathered wild mushroom that concealed a farm-fresh egg softly poached in mushroom juices? Small wonder that Le Jardin des Violettes was awarded Two Toques from Gault et Millau in 2012.
My room opened onto a large deck
The service was equally superb, unfailingly attentive yet unobtrusive. The extensive wine list included a wide selection of Alsatian wines as well as other wine-growing regions of France. From it, Alexandre Figenwald, the knowledgeable young sommelier, assisted us in selecting just the right bottles to enhance our meals (including a memorable Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg 2010, Domaine Weinbach, Kayserberg). The one drawback of having experienced Chef Jaeglé’s cuisine is that it has become a personal benchmark against which most restaurants I have visited since Le Jardin des Violettes find it hard to measure up.
by Editor | Jan 14, 2013 | Restaurants
By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox
The simple storefront of La Table d’Aki
On our most recent stay in Paris, we dined twice at Table d’Aki, a new neighborhood seafood restaurant led by Chef Akihiro Horikoshi we much appreciated. While some aspects of the experience were less than stellar the meals themselves were outstanding and the reason we plan to return to and recommend the 16-seat unadorned restaurant with a staff of two, the Japanese chef and owner who prepared French food, and a server.
St. Pierre fish over vegetables
The first time we went to the Seventh Arrondissement restaurant with such a discreet sign we almost missed it we were forty minutes late for our 1 p.m. reservation. Although the previous day we had reconfirmed our reservation, as is customary in fine dining restaurants in that city, we had no mobile phone on us and traffic was thicker than we anticipated during our cross city trek resulting in our tardy arrival. An unhappy server allowed us to sit down but informed us, after consulting with the chef of the less than half full restaurant, that we were welcome to stay provided we dispensed with the starter option and only had a main (and dessert we discovered later).
Chef Akihiro Horikoshi
In addition to being eager to sample the cuisine we were hungry so we agreed to the condition. Within minutes we were seated at a window side table with white tablecloths and ordinary dinnerware sipping a glass of disappointingly lukewarm Krug champagne, hoping for a slice of bread and glancing out the window onto the quiet street and indoors at our surroundings. The restaurant had a minimalist design with bare eggshell walls. Individual lamp bulbs hung above each table, suspended from red cordoned leashes that joined together at the ceiling. Tables for two that could be set together for larger groups occupied two rows set against the wall from the curtained entrance to the open kitchen. One row, ours, was longer than the other. A door to the rear left led to a hallway, office and single restroom.
The thousand layer crepe dessert
Moments later a perfectly prepared and seasoned St. Pierre fish, one of two main course options, with a light brown sauce arrived, erasing all unhappy thoughts. Just after bringing the fish to our table the server brought a basket of bread. A thousand crepe with pastry custard was the single dessert on offer. The light yet flavorful dessert completed the meal and left us wanting to return.
The dining area was adjacent to an open kitchen
Several days later, we were the first guests to arrive for our second meal. The server, the same slender blonde woman from the previous visit, commented on our on time arrival as she took our coats and offered us the table of our choice. Once again the restaurant was less than full for the lunch service. We were surprised to see her turn away two parties that arrived without reservations, explaining with emphasis that reservations were mandatory.
The langoustine appetizer
We overheard one of the parties explain that they had attempted to make reservations but were unsuccessful in reaching anyone over the phone. I empathized as I had trouble myself. The first time I attempted to reconfirm our reservation it took several tries in the space of 90 minutes to get through the busy phone line. The second time I called several times with no response, not even an answering machine.
Brittany lobster with brown sauce and mashed pumpkin
On reflection we realized that if they had welcomed the unexpected guests those guests who had taken the time to reserve a table in advance would probably have been left with fewer choices from the limited menu. This policy heightened our opinion of the chef, said to have been a longtime cook at one of the city’s top gourmet restaurants.
Fillet of sole with onions
From our seats we could see the chef cooking in the clean and well organized looking kitchen adjacent to the dining area. An advantage to the proximity was that our dishes arrived hot straight from the open kitchen (the scent of cooking was at times pervasive although it didn’t detract from our meal). On one occasion when one of our dishes was ready and the server was busy at another table the chef himself brought the dish to our table.
The apple tart
We sampled both appetizers on offer, St. Jacques and langoustine dishes, with favorable results. From the three main courses we sampled two, a small sole dish and a Brittany lobster with two sauces set atop mashed pumpkin (codfish was the third option). Both were delectable although the lobster was our favorite.
The handwritten bill for our first lunch
We opted for a half bottle of chilled 2010 Pouilly Foume Les Clarieres, a good match for the seafood. Dessert that day was homemade apple tart. Our server explained, when I asked if it had been made there, that the chef made it from scratch including the pastry. It was the perfect ending to a wonderful meal. We look forward to revisiting Table d’Aki (49, rue Vaneau, 75007, Paris, France, +33 1 45 44 43 48) the next time we are in the City of Lights, making sure to reserve a table and arrive on time.
by Editor | Nov 26, 2012 | Restaurants
Article and photos by Elena del Valle
Nationalistic Guacamole with Requeson and Pomegranate
During a recent trip to Mexico City I attended a four-course dinner at Dulce Patria (Anatole France 100, Col. Polanco, 11560, Mexico City, Mexico, +52 55 33 00 39 99, fax +52 55 33 00 39 95, mortiz@dulcepatriamexico.com), a restaurant serving Updated Mexican Cuisine from Chef Martha Ortiz. The interior of the restaurant was colorful and there was a festive ambiance. Staff were attentive and the dishes were presented artistically on the plates. I would recommend this restaurant to friends who like spicy culinary experiences and a loud ambiance.
Game of Pork Crackling Marbles with Green Raw Salsa
The popular restaurant, with capacity for eighty guests, appeared sold out the Friday night of our dinner. The sound level was so loud I could barely hear my neighbors at the table or the servers when they approached me to take my order. By the time we left my throat was sore and I was slightly hoarse.
Corn Kite with Tuna and the Spirit of Habanero
I loved the tequila aperitif drinks. There were two kinds, tamarind and rose. While I liked both the delicate rose flavored version with a rose bud floating on top, the house specialty I learned later, was my favorite. Roses with margarita or Margarita Rose was made with Castilla rose essence, good quality tequila, a pinch of salt and lemon sorbet and decorated with rose petals.
Multicoloured Quesadillas with Salsa Sultana pre-appetizers
To accompany our drinks the staff brought four types of appetizers: Nationalistic Guacamole with Requeson and Pomegranate (Guacamole nacionalista), Corn Kite with Tuna and the Spirit of Habanero (Papalotes de maiz y atun con espiritu de habanero), Game of Pork Crackling Marbles with Green Raw Salsa (Juego de canicas de chicharron con salsa verde cruda) and Multicoloured Quesadillas with Salsa Sultana (Quesadillas multicolores con salsa sultana).
My black bean with foie gras appetizer
We had two choices each for the first and main courses. The server recommended the Velvety Black Bean Soup with Foie Gras and Dark Tortillas (Sopa cremosa de frijol negro con foie gras y tortillas oscuras) and The Chile en Nogada Jewel (La joya de chile en nogada).
Desserts, like this sorbet, were shared
Desserts, shared by the table, were Sólo sale de noche Belle de Nuit, Warm cacao and maize cake with colourful dragées and decorated animal cookies, Cornbread in a mystical chamomile flower sauce with caramel aureole, Fiesta of ice cream and sorbets of national flavour Soursop. There was also Hibiscus Jello (Gelatina de guanabana e hibiscus) and Pan de Lote. There were three sorbet flavors: spicy mango, lemon coriander, and tuna mezcal. Coffee and candy were served after dessert. The candy came in a pretty tray with tiny decorative airplanes hanging from a central pole.
Post meal sweets arrived in a pretty carousel display
by Editor | Sep 24, 2012 | Restaurants
Article and photos by Elena del Valle
The view from our table
My visit to Burgundy earlier this year began with a brief stay at Domaine de L’Espérance Marc Meneau in the village of Saint Pere sous Vézelay (see Boutique Burgundy hotel offered elegant accommodations, gourmet meals, area tours). While there I dined at the owner’s namesake gourmet restaurant twice and met the famous chef and Francoise, his wife, who together developed the hotel and restaurant concept. The chef and Pierre, his son, about to open his own restaurant in Paris, had just returned from an international culinary event in the United States.
Senior staff at L’Esperance Marc Meneau
I loved the setting. The restaurant occupied the right rear corner of the hotel’s main building, facing the Serge Gainsbourg Garden named for a friend of the chef’s. In the chill of early spring glass walls allowed diners to enjoy the comfort of indoor dining with the views and ambiance of a garden side meal.
Green asparagus appetizer
Pretty tables with elegant dinnerware, silverware and glassware and attentive staff enhanced the experience. Dinner at L’Esperance Marc Meneau was well prepared, artfully presented, and served with great care. Some of the dishes, such as the John Dory, were prepared at the dinner table or table side, lending the meal a festive flare.
Fillet of John Dory on a hot stone from “St. Pere” prepared at the table
Dinner began with pre-appetizer bites of Couteaux farcis avec poulpes, bulots et crevettes, Guimauve concombre and tararna d’oursin. The meal proper started with Asperge Verte de Petuis a la Goret, a green asparagus appetizer; followed by fish cooked at the table atop a hot river stone from the nearby Saint Pere River, Le fillet de St.-Pierre Cuit sur “la pierre chaude de St. Pere.” A 2009 comté and 2010 Gruyere cheese course from Mr. Antony served with a small mixed salad was next.
Scallop appetizers at L’Esperance
A small salad with the cheese course
To accompany the food we were served 2010 Vezelay “les vignes blanches” Marc Meneau and 2008 Chablis Bougros Domaine Brocard. For dessert I sampled La Fraise Marie-Antoinette, a dish the chef created for a Sofia Coppola film about the famous queen. Petit fours completed the meal: Meringe praliné, Pate de fruit poire, Macaron chocolate, Financier orange et cerise confite, tartellette a la pomme and tuille.
The main course was prepared table side and assembled at the table
The following night, I had lightly cooked scallops for the starter and for mains a sea and land combination with potatoes and sweet onions. An Epoisses cheese was next followed by a mille-feuille (Napoleon pastry) dessert.
Petit fours at the end of the meal
Both meals at the restaurant were outstanding. L’Esperance Marc Meneau Grand-rue, Saint Père sous Vézelay, 89450, France, +33 (0) 3 86 33 39 10, fax +33 (0) 3 86 33 26 15, www.marc-meneau-esperance.com, reservation@marc-meneau.com
