by Editor | Feb 13, 2012 | Attractions, Ecotourism, New Articles
Article and photos by Elena del Valle
Dominica is lush and tropical
For most people thoughts of a Caribbean island stay bring forth visions of a vacation spent lazying on powder white sand beaches, gazing at turquoise waters and drinking rum punches served beachside with cute paper umbrellas. One of the reasons I liked Dominica was because it was, for the most part, devoid of such attractions. The highlights of my week long visit to Dominica, a lush green underdeveloped island, without luxury or chain hotels, sandwiched between Martinique and Guadeloupe in the eastern Caribbean, were centered around the island’s natural landscapes and beautiful views.
With the help of Justine, my guide from the Jungle Bay Resort & Spa, I hiked to Victoria Falls
For the active minded there were waterfalls, lakes, hiking paths, and hot springs to discover. As a nature lover I liked the possibility of spotting indigenous fauna and exploring the greenery within hundreds of miles of hiking trails that traversed the island. During my off season visit in addition to hiking, I visited waterfalls, a beach, a gorge, lakes, and rivers. One night after dinner at the pretty Rosalie Bay Resort, I was lucky to see turtle hatchlings crawl from the beach to the Atlantic Ocean.
Kurnel Simon, native guide and driver
With the services of Kurnel Simon, a native guide and driver, (Transcendent Tours 3222 Canal Hill, Massacre, + 767 449-3969, kurnicb5@hotmail.com) I saw some of the island’s best known attractions. His patient demeanor, excellent driving skills (driving, on the left along narrow two lane roads, required a sportsman’s attitude in Dominica where many of the roads were under repair or in need of repair) and can do attitude enhanced my experience. Because it was off season the island was pleasantly quiet.
The spa at Jungle Bay looked out on the Atlantic Ocean
In terms of accommodations, I divided my time between the east and west coasts on the southern end of Dominica. First I stayed at the Jungle Bay Resort & Spa at Pointe Mulatre. Although there were many things I enjoyed at the ocean front hill property the one that will stay with me the longest was the sound of the pounding surf from the comfort of my non air conditioned room (the lack of noise from an air conditioner made it possible to hear the sounds of the surf clearly), poolside and at the water facing restaurant.
There were many hiking trails in Dominica
Justine, a native of a nearby village, was my guide on a four hour hike to Victoria Falls organized by the Jungle Bay staff. Although the hike tested my resolve more than once and served to showcase Justine’s patience it was a worthwhile way to discover that part of the island. We encountered no souls during the hike and the only sounds we heard were those of nature, the river and the waterfalls.
My guide in the Carib Cultural Village by the Sea in Kalinago Barana Aute
To reach the falls, it was necessary to traverse through natural trails, mostly unmarked and often slippery, through pebble and boulder strewn areas, and cross the Victoria Falls River on foot numerous times through strong currents that reached waist high more than once. I fell multiple times although the only major injury was to my pride. Thanks to Justine’s kind nature and our joint perseverance we made it to the edge of the falls (the rocks at the end segment were too steep except for billy goats in human guise and Justine) and back.
The Emerald Pool was a popular swimming and tourist destination
The next day was dedicated to the Emerald Pool and the Carib Cultural Village by the Sea within the Kalinago Barana Aute (Crayfish River, Carib Territory, +767 445-7979, fax +767 445-7533, www.kalinagobaranaaute.com, kbamanager@cwdom.dm) on the eastern coast of the island. Sunday was consumed with tours of the Cabrits National Park and the scenic Indian River followed by a drive through Portsmouth, the second largest town on the island, and a hunger satisfying beachfront lunch at Le Flambeau Restaurant at the Picard Beach Hotel on the northwest corner of the island. I took a moment to walk out on the dock in front of the hotel and made a mental note to return to that part of the island if ever I had a desire for an understated beach with clear water. On our way south to Roseau, the capital where I would stay for the remainder of my visit, we drove along the scenic coastal road.
The Fort Young Hotel is on the water
After checking in at the waterfront Fort Young Hotel in the heart of town, I had an early dinner. The following day, I visited the lovely Trafalgar Falls, the Freshwater Lake and Titou Gorge. Mother Nature scheduled nonstop rain all day, helping to keep the island verdant. Because the Lake was enveloped in thick fog and it was chilly we minimized our time there. We carried on with most of the itinerary although we discovered Screw’s Sulfur Spa, the last stop for the day, was closed that week. We attempted to visit another hot spring facility at the last minute with little success.
One of many Waitukubuli National Trail signs
The Waitikubuli National Trail was the island’s claim to fame for hiking. A 3.5 hour hike of Segment 1 of the Trail from Scotts Head to Soufriere was scheduled for the next morning. We were slightly delayed due to some difficulty locating my hiking guide. After collecting him at a nearby village Kurnel Simon dropped us at the beginning of the hiking trail and we set off on the “easy” hike. Although I felt pleased with myself at the end of the hike it confirmed what I suspected following the Victoria Falls hike: that what the Dominicans described as an easy hike would be considered challenging or difficult for me and most of the hiking aficionados, save the most fit and hard core, I know.
The famed Indian River
Snorkeling the next morning was canceled at the last minute by the snorkeling company. Since we had little time to make alternate plans before the afternoon whale watching excursion we visited the botanical gardens and drove up the hill to enjoy a panoramic view of Roseau.
A vessel of the Anchorage Whale Watch & Dive Center
We went whale watching with Anchorage Whale Watch & Dive Center (The Anchorage at Castle Comfort, P.O. Box 34, Roseau, +767 448-2638, fax +767 440-2639, www.experience-dominica.com). After a safety briefing and discussion on whales and dolphins at the hotel where the company operates its tours, 14 of us, 11 passengers and three crew members (Captain Francis Charles, Dave Fabien and Eddie Joseph), went aboard the Miser’s Dream. The 60-foot catamaran motorboat built in 2000 and licensed for a maximum of 50 passengers was comfortable and spacious. Although we struck out on whales (which they see 80 percent of the time, according to the crew) we were delighted to come across spinner and spotted dolphins, a less common find in those waters. After motoring north and south along Dominica’s west coast some three miles from shore and spending 90 minutes under gray and heavily overcast skies we returned.
Crew members aboard the Miser’s Dream
Discovering the island’s natural treasures drew me to Dominica for the first time. Its stunning natural scenery, off the beaten track unspoiled character, genuine locals, simple organic meals and the possibility of discovering more of the Nature Island’s hidden beauty including some water attractions like snorkeling, diving and a second try at whale watching would draw me back.
by Editor | Jan 30, 2012 | Accomodations, New Articles
Article and photos by Josette King
My room offered a sweeping view of the Manhattan skyline
When visiting New York City, I have a special fondness for Lower Manhattan, the southernmost and oldest part of the city. Although the area has gradually become gentrified in recent decades, the original ethnic neighborhoods have endured (think China Town and Little Italy). And within them new ones have emerged, such as SoHo (SOuth of HOuston Street), NoHo (NOrth of HOuston Street), TriBeCa (TRIangle BElow CAnal Street); and my new favorite, Nolita (NOrth of Little ITAly). Once considered part of Little Italy, Nolita has retained its lived-in cosmopolitan atmosphere and human scale. Here, traditional wrought-iron fire escapes still run down the façades of century-old brick apartment buildings. But old-time bakeries and utilitarian warehouses now mix with trendy shops and restaurants, and most recently, the newly opened The Nolitan Hotel.
The Empire State Building dominated the view from my room
In a town where boutique hotels often emerge from old buildings, The Nolitan grew from the ground up on what was a parking lot at the corner of Kenmare and Elizabeth streets. I loved the low-key luxury and laidback atmosphere of its light-filled lobby and lounge. With its plate glass façade and open plan, it was an inviting spot to linger and enjoy the dynamic street scene unfolding outside. My upper floor room was equally welcoming. The custom-designed contemporary furnishings and minimalist décor made for a comfortable urban retreat that was just the right setting for the jaw-dropping view. The panoramic perspective reached across the neighborhood rooftops, all the way to the Midtown Manhattan skyline dominated by the towering Empire State Building and the Art Deco spire of the Chrysler Building.
Katz Delicatessen
The Nolitan was ideally located to offer an easy all-around Manhattan experience. It was just a few minutes’ walk from the colorful chaos of Chinatown, the hip downtown shopping of SoHo and the popular delis of the Lower East Side (Katz’s Delicatessen of When Harry met Sally fame was a few blocks away on Houston Street). And when I felt like joining the Midtown crowds for a look at the famed Rockefeller Center Christmas tree (I visited in early December), or catch a Broadway show, a quick, direct subway ride whisked me there, and back home to the Nolitan faster than I could have hailed a cab. Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review to read more about my stay at The Nolitan Hotel.
by Editor | Jan 23, 2012 | Attractions, New Articles
Article and photos by Elena del Valle
Part of the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh
When I visited Cambodia the last time I much enjoyed seeing Phnom Penh and Siem Reap and their salient tourist features in the company of an English speaking private guide. In Phnom Penh, my guide escorted me to Wat Phnom, a hill temple, the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, the National Museum, the Killing fields, the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum and one of the city markets. My tours and activities were organized by or held at the Raffles Hotel Le Royal in Phnom Penh and the Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor in Siem Reap where I stayed while in Cambodia. I was especially pleased that everyone was punctual and courteous without exception.
One of the many exceptional statues at the Angkor Wat temples near Siem Reap
In Siem Reap, where I had more time, the hotel proposed a variety of activities in house and within the city. At the hotel, I attended a cocktail tasting, tea with a hotel historian, a palm tree demonstration, a wine tasting at Le Grand Wine Cellar with the sommelier and hotel manager, a lotus plant demonstration, a private sunrise visit to Angkor Wat by jeep, a buffet dinner and Apsara Dance Performance, and a visit to Phra Ong Check Phra Ong Chom temple with Mouth Saravann, resident services manager and butler of the hotel.
Lotus flower based drink demonstration and tasting
In addition, I attended a private Khmer cooking class including a visit to the Siem Reap market with Samreth Thai, junior sous chef of the hotel and my cooking instructor that day. Maing Meng Seap, the pastry chef, joined us for the important (for me) dessert course of the cooking class.
A demonstration during the cooking class
Following the cooking class, I had the pleasure of enjoying the meal we learned about in class, prepared by the hotel staff, in the hotel restaurant. And, to help me recover from all the excitement I indulged in a few spa treatments at the hotel’s Amrita Spa.
Samreth Thai, junior sous chef, and Maing Meng Seap, the pastry chef, at the Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor
Royal Khmer Cuisine book I received at the cooking class
One night, after a wine tasting at the hotel’s cozy “cellar” I enjoyed a cultural performance and dinner at the Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor in Siem Reap. The buffet dinner and performance offered copious quantifies of food, a variety of dishes and a live Khmer traditional dance performance. While I liked the food what I enjoyed the most was the performance. A group of young Khmer dancers performed six distinct pieces reflective of the traditions and fables of several regions: Ladies Bouquet, Coconut Shells Dance, Golden Mermaid (Part of the Ramayana), Tea Harvest Dance, Bokator (the Angkorean Martial Art), and Apsara Dance.
Apsara dance performance at the Raffles in Siem Reap
by Editor | Dec 12, 2011 | Accomodations, Ecotourism, New Articles, Video
Article, video, music and photos by Joachim Castellano
Travelers in Japan have the opportunity to stay in ryokans, traditional Japanese inns. Typically ryokans involve sleeping on the floor in tatami-matted rooms, bathing in a communal bath, and consuming an excellent Japanese dinner and breakfast included with the room charge. Recently while traveling in Izu, an area of Japan famous for its ryokans, I stayed at Arcana Izu (the hotel writes it arcana izu all in lowercase letters), a luxury ryokan that blends the traditional Japanese ryokan with Western concepts.
Arcana Izu blends modern architecture with the nearby Kano river
The fusion of East and West began with its name. Arcana is Latin for mysteries. Furthermore, Arcana Izu bills itself as a luxury auberge, and the hotel had a noticeable French influence, exemplified most by its Lumiere restaurant. After my taxi driver pulled into a stony entrance barely visible from a windy, rustic road, it seemed like I had discovered a secret place in the mountains.
High quality Thann body wash, shampoo, and conditioner
How had this mysterious and luxurious inn in Japan come to exist? Three Japanese entrepreneurs collaborated to create it: A French chef, a designer, and a graphic artist. Good design is about making tasteful choices. And almost every detail at the hotel revealed a discriminating eye, starting with its picturesque location near the Kano River.
I was delighted by the chocolate center of this berry treat
I was greeted by name at a large entrance gate, and ushered into River View Suite Number 5. A hotel butler checked me in inside the room itself, as there was no traditional front counter. Besides confirming the details of my stay, my butler briefly explained the amenities of the room and asked my preferred dinner and breakfast times. Another staff member entered the room and served me a welcome treat of bubbling fruit juice, ice-chilled berry, and a cookie.
A view of the Kano River
Check-in completed, I had a chance to consider my room while sipping the welcome drink. I was awestruck by the incredible view before my eyes: tall door-length windows wrapped around the room, showcasing Mount Amagi’s lush forest across and a rushing Kano River below my room.
An instruction card suggested drawing and painting techniques
To the left I spotted Arcana’s hallmark feature, an outdoor private hot spring bath. This bath was connected to my room via the bathroom, which had three sections. My room was the smallest room offered at Arcana Izu, yet I didn’t feel cramped at all; the room was spacious and modern.
From the hot spring bathtub, I could view of my room and the river below
During my stay I felt relaxed and rejuvenated. The staff were friendly, attentive, and easy to communicate with. Soaking in the views of nature from my bath and from my room soothed my city-worn spirits. Staying at Arcana Izu even inspired me, a technology addict, to include more nature-related breaks in my daily life.
Shinjiro Kobayashi, the sommelier, guided me through Arcana Izu’s twelve-page wine menu
Next time, I’ll be sure to bring along someone special to share in the wonderful secrets of this magical ryokan. The total experience, the private bath, the view, the French food, and the excellent service added up to artistry in action, a masterpiece in the mountains called Arcana Izu.
by Editor | Oct 24, 2011 | Accomodations, Ecotourism, New Articles
By Elena del Valle and photos by Gary Cox
Chitwa Chitwa is located along the shore of a lake
When we first heard of Chitwa Chitwa, a boutique lodge in the northern corner of the famous Sabi Sand Reserve, we wondered about the meaning of the name. It was one of the first questions we asked as we settled in at the lodge. The property was named for an old bull giraffe whose bones made a creaking sound similar to the words chitwa chitwa.
The dining area featured whimsical touches like bone light fixtures
Our stay at the lodge was rewarding in many ways. We loved the lodge’s waterside location and luxurious and spacious rooms with a water view. The Big Five game viewing, in the company of a young and enthusiastic ranger tracker team, was outstanding. A pretty setting and artsy decor along with comfort centered facilities, an intimate and romantic ambiance, a foodie orientation and friendly staff made the property and instant favorite. Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review Safari Section to learn more about our stay at Chitwa Chitwa.
by Editor | Oct 17, 2011 | Accomodations, Ecotourism, New Articles
By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox
Bedroom at Africa House
From the airport in Johannesburg we flew Federal Air directly to the Thornybush landing strip where Ryan Jack was waiting in an open four by four vehicle to drive us to Africa House, our six room luxury home away from home with a pool for the next four days. We traveled to Africa House, part of the Royal Malewane Reserve which in turn is within the Thornybush Reserve near South Africa’s famed http://simonandbaker.com/kruger, to relax and enjoy the area’s well known game viewing.
Ryan and Terence
Ryan, our ranger, and Terence Mhlanga would be our companions and guides on twice daily game drives during our visit to this luxury South Africa safari destination. In their company we spent the first and last part of our days, searching for bush experiences, taking thousands of photos and marveling at the flora and fauna of the reserve.
John Jackson
When we arrived at Africa House Ramos, Zama, Gift and John Jackson (see Listen to John Jackson, manager and executive chef, Royal Malewane), the staff, were waiting for us at the entrance. As soon as I saw them I recognized them from our previous stay at the Royal Malewane, an exclusive safari lodge and part of Liz Biden’s The Royal Portfolio, two and a half years earlier. On seeing them the memories of our lovely visit flooded back.
Lunch at Africa House
Moments later John and I were catching up as if time had stood still, walking through the beautiful East Africa entrance door to the stand alone house to settle in our temporary bush home. With John and his team in residence we knew our accommodations and meals would be outstanding. Ryan and Terence ensured our game viewing would be memorable. Our days at Africa House passed quickly and remain etched among our fondest bush stays. We quickly fell into a comfortable routine of early morning and late afternoon game drives with amazing gourmet meals and relaxing quiet private time in between.
White rhino in Thornybush reserve
Africa House offered a superlative combination of guest centered and attentive service, privacy, at home luxury, gourmet meals and game viewing. It was, in short, one of our favorite safari visit in South Africa. Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review to read about our Safari Reviews and our stay in Africa House.
