Satisfying meals at Portland, Maine eatery

By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox

The exterior features two tables sheltered under awnings

The exterior featured two tables sheltered under an awning

One of our most satisfying eatery experiences in Portland, Maine was at Duckfat. Lunch at the popular informal restaurant was best approached armed with patience and the willingness to share space with neighbors. There were seating options indoors and outdoors. Outdoors there was one wood table with two benches on either side of the entrance door facing the sidewalk and street. The tables were shared by couples and small groups while other would be diners waited on the sidewalk for a place to free up. A staff member explained that a two hour and longer wait was common for lunch.

Delicious fries cooked in the namesake oil

Delicious fries cooked in the namesake oil

The day we dined outdoors, cool temperatures contrasted with the harsh afternoon sunlight that filtered through to our table.  Our server was friendly, well informed and helpful. When our Belgian fries, size large, arrived too salty he replaced them quickly. The fries, sandwich and special board of the day followed by an Original Duckfat Milkshake Double Thick with Tahitian Vanilla Bean ice cream shake, a house specialty, were all exceptionally good.

The special board of the day

Our first special board of the day

Our next meal, inside the sandwich shop, was less pleasant although the food itself was equally good. Stool seating was possible at stand alone tables or against the wall. It was crowded, warm and noisy. An open kitchen took up the rear of the interior. A narrow hallway led to single stall restrooms shared by the staff.

The decadent vanilla bean shake

The decadent vanilla bean shake

Our server seemed rushed and left without saying a word halfway through our meal. We had to ask another staff member for a beverage refill, a shake and eventually to pay.

A second variation on the special board of the day

A second variation on the special board of the day

Once again our order was worthwhile. The fries, cooked in duck fat and served on a stand, were as good as the first time and stayed hot until the end. The fries were prepared with seasoned salt and served with our choice from among eight dipping sauces. The House Cured Ham and Cheese grilled sandwich and cold deli board were both rewarding.

The grilled sandwich and fries with truffle ketchup

The grilled sandwich and fries with truffle ketchup

The well made flavorful dishes prepared with many local ingredients (a list of suppliers appeared on the restaurant website) more than made up for the crowded and loud ambiance and uneven service. We also liked that Duckfat, according to its website, is independent and locally owned. Should we return to Portland, Duckfat will be at the top of our eatery list.

New luxury Right Bank hideaway also home to one the hottest bistros in Paris

Article and photos by Josette King

 The main entrance of La Régalade

The main entrance of La Régalade

In a city that boasts more than its fair share of venerable grande dame properties, it’s luxury boutique hotels that have been creating a buzz in Paris in recent years. And few have buzzed louder than the recently opened five star Hotel de Nell. What I enjoyed most about my recent visit there was, well, everything! The location first of all, in the heart of the tony 9th arrondissement, a Right Bank neighborhood of understated side streets lined with elegant balconied buildings of quarry stone, just north of the Grands Boulevards on the way to Montmartre. Although mainly overlooked by tourists, the quietly chic 9th has been a hub of Parisian intellectual and artistic life for more than two centuries, and retains to this day its 19th century atmosphere.

 The neo-gothic Church of Saint Eugène and Sainte Cecile

The neo-gothic Church of Saint Eugène and Sainte Cecile

One block down the street from the Hotel de Nell is the Conservatoire (music and dance academy founded in 1795) where Paris was first introduced to the music of Ludwig van Beethoven in 1828, and Hector Berlioz premiered his Symphonie Fantastique two years later. Around the corner, is the church of Saint Eugène et Sainte Cécile (Jules Verne was married there), a unique 19th century neo-gothic church, the first in Paris with its interior entirely metallic. The legendary Folies Bergères cabaret, with its 1930 Art Déco façade recently returned to its original gilded splendor, is one street over. And the place where George Sand and Frederic Chopin once lived (in separate apartments across from each other) is just a short walk away.

 The newly restored façade of the Folies Bergères cabaret

The newly restored façade of the Folies Bergères cabaret

I thoroughly enjoyed my leisurely exploration of the neighborhood. And I loved even more returning home to the serene luxury of the Hotel de Nell after my forays back in time to Paris’ Belle Epoque. Behind its impeccably restored 19th century façade with its lacy wrap-around wrought iron balconies, noted architect and designer Jean-Michel Vilmotte created a tranquil minimalist retreat that brilliantly combined mid-20th century-inspired furnishings with oriental details. The resulting Zen-like atmosphere permeated every corner of the property. But nowhere was it more in evidence than in my light-filled fifth story room with its romantic view of the neighborhood rooftops and its stunning bathroom with a white marble Japanese-style soaking tub and shoji screen-like unpolished glass windows.

 A votive candle cast a soft glow on the bathroom

A votive candle cast a soft glow on the bathroom

Then on the street floor, there was La Régalade, one of Paris’ hot new bistros. Here Bruno Doucet, one of the city’s leading young chefs, dished out a cuisine that has become so popular in recent years that a new word had to be invented for it: bistronomy. This is where gastronomy, and the skills Chef Doucet honed in the kitchens of Pierre Gagnaire and Jean-Pierre Vitago, is translated into simpler yet imaginative, more convivial bistro fare offered as a friendly three-course prix fixe formula. Small wonder that whether for lunch or dinner, reservations were strongly recommended during the week and definitely necessary on weekends.

Paris Alain Ducasse seafood restaurant worth revisting

By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox

Sauce for the langoustines

Sauce for the langoustines

We enjoyed our lunch at Rech, a well known seafood establishment in Paris, France. We were drawn to the restaurant because it was a new addition to the Alain Ducasse owned and managed properties portoflio. We have dined at several of the famous chef’s restaurants with pleasure. 

Mont Blanc de tradition, poire Pochée a la vanille

Mont Blanc de tradition, poire Pochée a la vanille

Well prepared seafood dishes, attentive English speaking staff, understated upstairs decor and a desirable location on the busy Avenue des Ternes in the seventeenth arrondissement would temp us back in the future. Favorite dishes included a langoustine starter (Délicat velouté de langoustines, d’autres marinées a cru au citron vert) and the Grenobloise-style skate fish (Aile de raie a la grenobloise). On a return visit I would also order the restaurant’s Camembert (Le fameux Camembert de Rech). 

Understated elegance, innovative refined cuisine, warm service have made Ledoyen a favorite among Paris favorites

By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox

Chef Le Squer and Patrick Simiand

Chef Le Squer and Restaurant Manager Patrick Simiand

Making dining choices in Paris can be challenging. A myriad restaurants await us depending on our culinary preferences and budget. Even in the rarefied top tier of gourmet dining there are many worthy options. For those who take the time to explore unexpected treasures can still be found. Hidden in plain site steps from the famed Champs Elysees is Ledoyen. Even among the city’s culinary giants Christian Le Squer, the restaurant’s reserved executive chef, stands out.

Caramel a la fleur de sel, Givré de Citron

Caramel a la fleur de sel, Givré de Citron

We favor Ledoyen because since our first visit the restaurant has consistently delivered a superb experience. Over the years, the restaurant’s blend of elegance and warmth have made us feel welcome while the cuisine has drawn us back. Although all our meals there have been outstanding, our most recent lunch stands out for its balanced perfection.

Another dining experience worth repeating at Le Cinq in Paris

By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox

 Assorted amuse busch

Our amouse bouche at Le Cinq

For more than six years we have been fans of Le Cinq, one of the best known dining venues in Paris, France. The restaurant’s elegant dining room, outstanding service and refined cuisine draw us back regularly.

Slicing the autumn game pie

The autumn game pie

On our most recent visit we were rewarded with Chef Eric Briffard’s superlative seafood dishes. We also sampled a seasonal game pie, a specialty only available during a two week window, which was as rich as it was filling.

Serving lobster from a special cooking pot

One of the senior staff serving lobster table side from the cooking pot

Friendly, accommodating staff volunteered menu recommendations and assisted us with wine selection. The table side fanfare and partial meal preparation added a special touch to the occasion.

Persimmon sorbet with dates

Persimmon sorbet with dates

Our biggest challenge? That by the time the mignardise cart of sweet treats arrived at the conclusion of the meal we had run out of space. The restaurant had a solution for that, a box filled with caramels and nougats for us to take home. We remembered the restaurant and our delicious lunch every time we reached for a piece of candy for the few days that the boxes lasted. It’s those small touches and the memorable meals that bring us back when there are so many fine dining choices in the City of Lights.

Thoumieux, Restaurant Jean-Francois Piege offered boutique accommodations, fine dining in desirable Paris neighborhood

By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox

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Room decor at Thoumieux featured a variety of patterns and fabrics

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The lobby of the hotel doubled as the restaurant lounge

We liked Thoumieux, a 15-room boutique hotel in Paris, France, for its elegant yet comfort oriented features and electronic amenities, its location in the seventh arrondisement and its gourmet restaurant.

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Fresh white truffles were in season and featured on the menu

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Jean-Francois Piege presentation featured unique china for many courses

Restaurant Jean-Francois Piege, the hotel’s gourmet venue named for the eponymous chef owner, on the lobby level, offered fine dining in a cozy setting. Serving beautifully presented and unique dishes prepared in a modern French cuisine style the restaurant, like the hotel, was small with seating for only 18 guests. It was sold out the day we had lunch.