by Editor | Nov 17, 2014 | Restaurants
By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox
The restaurant in the Youngtown Inn
We arrived hungry at the Youngtown Inn and Restaurant in Lincolnville, Maine, after a day of driving and tourist activities with little time for lunch. Instead of driving the six miles from our nearby inn we opted for a taxi. Fortunately, it was early when we asked if the restaurant was near enough to walk. A smiling front desk staff person indicated it would be better to drive or rely on a transport service as it was several miles away down dark roads. Advance planning was necessary as it required 25 minutes before a taxi made its way to Linconlville Beach, where we were staying, from its base of operations in Rockport. It was the only taxi service available, the staff woman explained.
The lobster bisque
As the taxi van negotiated the dark residential roads and our tiredness sunk in we were glad of our decision. As we entered the restaurant, located within a classic 1810 farmhouse turned into a cozy four room inn, a distracted middle aged woman welcomed us, led us to our table and handed us menus. We explained that we needed a taxi and she offered to call the service when our dessert arrived. As the evening wore on her timing estimate proved to be spot on. Moments later, another personable woman arrived to announce the daily specials and bring us water. Although it was a weekend evening we were among few guests at the restaurant because of a nearby special event.
Our beet salad (click to enlarge)
The arugula salad was garnished with a flower (click to enlarge)
While the set menu was well priced, the chef’s beef and lamb specialties were on only offer in the a la carte menu so we chose that one. There were two types of bread, whole wheat and sour dough. For starters we ordered Lobster Bisque with Sherry made with fresh lobster chunks, one beet salad and one arugula salad. For mains we had Pan Seared Black Angus Filet Mignon, Caramelized Onions, Roquefort and Roast Rack of Imported Lamb with Herbs de Provence (a favorite) both of which were well prepared. They were served with green beans, carrots and potatoes. Relying on our server’s advice we ordered a 2010 Billerond Saint Emilion to accompany our dinner. It was a good match for the meal, stout enough for the red meats yet well rounded and with a smooth finish.
The lamb was moist and tasty (click to enlarge)
The filet mignon with the pepper sauce removed
Although the menu description of my filet mignon said nothing about pepper nor did the server mention it when I placed my order, the meat was sitting atop and covered in a thick black pepper sauce. After I raised the issue, the server took it back to the kitchen where they removed the sauce. She brought it back quickly and it was still hot, but the pepper flavor had penetrated the meat, making it difficult to enjoy my dish or taste the Roquefort cheese.
The creme brulee
The chocolate truffle cake
For dessert we had Tahitian bean Creme Brulee and Chocolate Truffle Cake. While the thin slice of cake didn’t look especially appetizing it had a rich chocolate flavor. Dinner was pleasant. The Youngtown Inn and Restaurant, 581 Youngtown Road, Lincolnville, Maine 04849, +1 207-763-4290, info@youngtowninn.com
by Editor | Oct 6, 2014 | New Articles, Restaurants
Article and photos by Josette King
The restaurant was located on the first floor of the Clifton Inn
During my recent visit to Charlottesville, Virginia I had the pleasure to dine at the Clifton Inn Restaurant. My reservation, made ahead by a local friend, indicated that it was for the Chef’s Counter. I didn’t realize the extent of my good fortune until I was escorted through the dining room, straight to the kitchen. As the daughter of a French chef, I have appreciated since childhood that it is a singular privilege to be invited into the inner sanctum. And that night, I was the chosen one.
I was momentarily perplexed by the long row of copper pans, much too perfectly shined to have seen recent service, lined against a coral accent wall, and the gilded mirror at the far end of the room, strategically placed to reflect the crystal chandelier that hung over the pale polished concrete counter. But then I hoisted myself onto a comfortable bar chair, and across the countertop, had a panoramic view of the kitchen.
The Chef’s Counter provided a front row view of the action in the kitchen
It was equipped with the latest in high end professional equipment and had a traffic pattern designed for maximum efficiency. It clearly meant business. As did Tucker Yoder, the executive chef, and his capable team.
Everyone was calm, focused on the task of the moment, every gesture precise as they created one remarkable dish after another. And yet they were sufficiently relaxed to engage in conversation with me about anything from the unusual pairings of textures and flavors on my plate or the culinary journey that had led them to the Clifton to the ethos of the farm to table movement.
Chef Yoder, sous chef Jared Adams and pastry chef Kristen Johnson focused on their creations
It was a creative group of professionals who, under the guidance of Chef Yoder, delighted in pushing the boundaries of classic cuisine, and experimenting with ingredients and techniques to bring gastronomy into the 21 century, except when timeless tradition still delivered the best results. They churned their own butter, made sourdough bread from a three year old starter and kept a kitchen garden (right outside the kitchen door).
At the Chef’s Counter, guests had the option to choose from the restaurant’s menu or the tasting menu. I opted for the latter and what followed was two hours of bite size delights and discoveries.
Ham and pea salad with chervil
“What is this?” I had to ask of the crisp leaf shaped wafer under the creamy dollop of pureed apple and fennel of my amuse bouche. Jared Adams, sous chef, who was working nearest to me at the moment, volunteered that it was dehydrated ramp, a sort of local wild leek. And by the way, they foraged it.
Several dishes later came the field greens salad, fresh from the garden; so fresh there was a spoonful of garden dirt on the plate. That time Kristen Johnson, pastry chef, answered, “just black cocoa powder, butter and sugar, lightly baked then finely crumbled.”
Sticky pudding with date puree, candied pecans and caramel ice cream
We have come a long way since garlic croutons. If pressed to identify a favorite dish, a hard decision, I probably would have singled out the succulent grit encrusted oysters with their garnish of sautéed wild mushroom, served over pureed apples with brown butter. But that’s because I hadn’t yet factored in dessert. I had challenged Kristen to surprise me with “her most Virginian dessert.” That turned out to be a divine sticky pudding with date puree, candied pecans and caramel ice cream. Even after so many dishes (I had lost count long before the end of the meal), I cleaned my plate. At Chef Yoder’s Counter, excess was a wonderful thing.
by Editor | Aug 4, 2014 | New Articles, Restaurants
Article and photos by Josette King
The Old Mill Room restaurant was located in the historic part of the property
The Old Mill Room is a restaurant with a distinguished past and a cuisine grounded in the present. Located in the historical core of the Boar’s Head in Charlottesville, Virginia, it was built from a valued piece of local history, the repurposed timber from an abandoned 1834 gristmill famous for having survived the Civil War and gone on to operate a whole six decades after it. Moved piece by pieced from is original site on the banks of the Hardware River, it was integrated in the construction of an inn’s main building in the early 1960’s.
The shaded central lawn of The Boar’s Head evoked of a town common of old
The décor of the restaurant had been designed to showcase those striking architectural details while creating a refined environment that evoked timeless southern grace. It was an ideal setting for the elegant classic cuisine with a Virginia flair and international contemporary touches dished out by Bill Justus, executive chef, and his team.
At the Old Mill Room the building was not the only custodian of a proud history. When Chef Justus joined the Boar’s Head as executive chef in 2010, he took over a restaurant with the singular distinction of being the longest holder of a AAA Four Diamonds designation in the Commonwealth of Virginia.
The historic Old Mill Room was built from the timber of an abandoned 1834 gristmill
Justus maintained the award winning culinary excellence while bringing to the menu the lighter dishes, farm to table freshness of local ingredients and imaginative flavor and texture pairings I appreciated. At the time of my visit, the Old Mill Room had been awarded once again its Four Diamonds, for the 27 consecutive time.
Executive Chef Bill Justus
From the amuse bouche of chilled watermelon with goat cheese mousse to the perfectly caramelized creme brulee, my meal was a shining example of the creativity that went on in the kitchen. My appetizer skillfully balanced the sweet tenderness of exquisitely seared scallops with a light crust of smoky ancho chili pepper and bitter cocoa. As for the sunburst trout filets of my main course, they were dusted with blue cornmeal and served with a colorful accompaniment of tiny black Peruvian potatoes and Atlantic lobster succotash, and a discrete dash of Pernod in the light lobster sauce. It was interesting and delicious.
Pan seared halibut with steamed clams in a light saffron sauce
It stands to reason that my local friends regard the Old Mill Room as one of the greater Charlottesville area de rigueur places to celebrate special occasions. I will plan to return myself, the next time my travels take me back to Central Virginia.
by Editor | May 26, 2014 | Luxury Travel, Restaurants
The place setting at Le Balzac
Our arrival at Le Balzac, a few strides away from the famed Champs Elysees Avenue in Paris, France, was easy. A handful of steps led to the rarefied ambiance of one of the city’s best known gourmet addresses. Although the restaurant has its own entrance it is shares space and restrooms with a luxury hotel. Inside, we were greeted by a polite staff person who made sure we were in the reservations list. After handing our coats to someone, we followed a staff person, past the bar and through the dining room, to our table.
The crunchy cheese and paprika bites, vegetable lengths with balls wrapped in lettuce
The contemporary dining room, decorated in muted shades of brown with recessed ceiling lights, was divided into two sections, the main dining area and a secondary room a step or two above the larger space. Our small table occupied the corner nearest the steps, affording us a view of the entire dining room and bar. Crisp tablecloths and napkins, elegant dinnerware and glassware set the stage for a special meal.
The amuse bouche of gel cubes, tomato, squid ink and tuna
Initially the staff were efficient and polite, bringing us drinks, a copy of the menu, water and bread (chestnut, milk or baguette choices). Crunchy cheese and paprika bites, vegetable lengths with balls wrapped in lettuce were followed by gel cubes, tomato and squid ink and tuna morsels. The Alsatian bread was to our liking.
The foie gras and accompaniments
Our first course, Foie gras d’oie eau de bortsch en gelee, pate de coing au marc de Gewurztraminer Salade Felicia. Creme glacee tamarillo/Beaujolais nouveau/chou rouge, tranche de rutabaga grille, puntarella (goose foie gras with tomato and beetroot, borsch, beetroot foam and puree and citrus butter) served with a floral wine from Austria was outstanding. After that, the experience and the meal declined in a remarkable manner.
The souffle of haddock
Souffle haddock/Saint-Jacques chou blanc croquant fondue d’endive et radicchio. Noix tailees aux chataignes, puree de brocoli au raifort was the second course. The souffle of haddock was more of a mousse than a souffle and the flavor was disappointing. The Grosse poularde de Bresse rotie entiere le supreme est enrobe du jus de cuisson lie de tamrain, oignons grelots, vuleta, topinambours. Le gras de cuisse croustillant, gratin de poire, celeri-rave et crozets au Blue de Termignon, a large hen roasted whole with pear gratin and blue cheese from Termignon was oily and bland despite an excess of cheese.
Hen roasted with pear gratin and blue cheese.
For some reason the service level dropped steeply after the appetizer. Our bread plate remained empty for a long time as did our wine and water glasses despite our calling the server to our table. Rather than refilling our wine glasses or asking if we wished to try something else, he called the wine steward who had been chatting with our nearest neighbor for the better part of thirty minutes in such a loud voice that we could hear his part of their conversation. A few minutes later, the man disentangled himself and took the two steps to reach our table. By then, we no longer wanted any wine.
The desserts
Dessert did nothing to improve the situation. It was the first time I ever remember leaving a top rated restaurant hungry and so unhappy with the service.
by Editor | Mar 24, 2014 | Restaurants
By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox
A table at Restaurant le Meurice Alain Ducasse
The previous time we had dined at restaurant Le Meurice, in 2011, a different chef was in charge. On our return at the end of 2013, subtle decorative changes in the beautiful dining room of the restaurant of the Hotel Le Meurice on the famed Rue de Rivoli in Paris, France reminded me that food industry icon Alain Ducasse had assumed control of the hotel kitchens. Among them were new Baccarat crystal pieces and an elaborately made panel near the entrance which itself was next to the revolving doors of the hotel entrance, discreetly behind the greeter’s stand.
The service was attentive and precise
The staff members were helpful and attentive with a healthy amount of reserve. The new menu at le Meurice focused on produce, the producers themselves and the seasons. Langoustines, a spokesperson explained, will only appear on the menu if they can be delivered alive. The olive oil from Sicily is exclusive to the restaurant.
We had a steamed vegetables appetizer
Our meal was well prepared and served. We particularly enjoyed the steamed vegetable appetizer and the meat dishes. For example, the venison (chevreuil) was cooked just right and served with a peppercorn sauce that brought out the game meat flavor without overwhelming it. The chicken with white truffles was fragrant and tender. The sauces in both cases were outstanding.
The cheese cart
The wine specialists were notable for their selections and customer centered service. We especially liked the wine pairings with the meal. We look forward to a return visit to Restaurant le Meurice Alain Ducasse under its new management and chef.
by Editor | Jan 6, 2014 | Restaurants
By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox
Chef Akihiro Horikoshi in the kitchen
A little over a year ago we visited Table d’Aki (see New Paris restaurant offered exceptional seafood in unassuming setting), a small Left Bank restaurant in Paris, France, and were impressed with the chef’s fish and seafood dishes. On our return to the restaurant almost a year later, we were pleased to enjoy an outstanding seafood meal.
When we arrived for our early lunch (12 noon) we noticed the restaurant had a new name. Instead of Table d’Aki it was Table d’Akihiro. When we asked about the change the chef explained that Aki is a diminutive of his first name and Akihiro is his full first name. That day, we found the chef alone and hard at work.
Perfectly prepared delicate scallops
It was Chef Akihiro Horikoshi who opened the door and welcomed us in; he took our coats, settled us down in a corner table and provided us menus. Moments later he took our order. He remained alone, cooking and serving, until we left. None of the other diners who arrived after we did seemed to mind.
The closely placed tables were set with all the necessary implements such as spotless tablecloths, napkins, cutlery and glasses. The small dining room ended in the chef’s open kitchen. It looked pristine. Single bulbs hung from the ceiling and heaters kept the place comfortable. The bathroom was immaculate.
We ordered the sole with a touch of flavorful curry
As before, the menu was limited to seafood and fish. That day, the choices were one appetizer option, two main course options and one dessert, all prepared by the chef himself.
We ordered one appetizer each, the same main course and shared a dessert which the chef kindly split in the kitchen. The appetizer was a scallop dish with a vegetable puree foam and three perfectly cooked scallops. The main dish was sole with Asian spices and a touch of curry. Dessert was a dacquoise, two layers of thin and light cake with a vanilla cream center.
A light dessert was perfect to complete lunch
Every dish was superlative, especially the scallop and fish. Had we realized how good the dessert would be we would have ordered one each. Table d’Akihiro (49, rue Vaneau, 75007, Paris, France, +33 1 45 44 43 48) is on our list of Paris seafood favorites for future visits. I would recommend it to our friends who are more concerned with the meal than an elaborate delivery and famous setting. What Chef Akihiro Horikoshi’s restaurant lacked in staff and elegant amenities it made up for manifold in outstanding food. In a city known for its many dining venues this small restaurant stood out for its perfectly prepared fare.
