Maine Moosehead Lake fall flight aboard rare seaplane feast for the eyes

By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox

Currier's Fliying Service

Currier’s Flying Service had a selection of amphibious aircraft

During a stay in the Moosehead Lake area in Maine we took advantage of the autumn picture perfect weather by going on a scenic flight. The Moosehead & Lobster Lake Air Tour offered by Currier’s Flying Service, Inc. consisted of an hour long scenic flight on a 1954 de Havilland Beaver seaplane, one of few such seaplanes still in commercial use in the United States. A two person minimum was necessary.

Moosehead Lake shoreline

The shore of Moosehead Lake before takeoff

We departed from just outside of Greenville on the southern side of the lake, flying north along the Moosehead Lake’s eastern shore toward Lobster Lake then west past Mount Kineo and south again to our point of departure. In addition to our pilot, we shared the plane with a couple celebrating their wedding anniversary.

Fall colors from the air

Fall colors from the air

Fall colors were beginning to spread along the canopy of tress across the lake area like a blossoming palette of colors on a painter’s canvas. The sun was reflected brightly on the water during our mid afternoon flight.

Pilot and owner of Currier's Flying Service

Roger Currier, pilot and co-owner of Currier’s Flying Service

As we flew north we could see the small shadow our plane cast along our path. The time on the plane remains among my vivid memories of that trip. Should I return to that part of Maine I would take the tour again in a heartbeat.

A modern safari experience at Chinzombo camp, Zambia

By Laura Scheiber and Matthew Harris
Photos by Matthew Harris

Crossing the Luangwa river

Crossing the Luangwa River

We arrived at the bank of the Luangwa River, at the end of a game viewing drive in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park from our previous safari lodge. After loading our luggage into a small boat, we were ferried across the river by one of our hosts, Finlay Hunter. On our arrival at Chinzombo, a luxury safari camp, Finlay and his wife and cohost, Wendy offered us cool washcloths to freshen up, served us fruit cocktail drinks and made us feel at home. It was a sign of things to come. The young, energetic, professional and attentive couple went out of their way to ensure our stay was perfect.

View over the Luangwa river from the dining area of Chinzombo camp

View of the Luangwa River from the dining area of Chinzombo camp

The camp, on the Luangwa riverbank opposite the beautiful South Luangwa National Park, is a one hour drive from Mufwe Airport, which is a quick hour flight to Lusaka. Being close to the national park meant that we were able to enjoy great game viewing drives and walks with our charismatic guide Shaddy Nkoma. With years of guiding experience, he provided fascinating insight into the African bush. He also regaled us with stories of his youth in Zambia including having to swim to school through crocodile infested rivers. One time he even lost his clothes in the process.

Room with a Pool View

Our room with a pool view

The newly opened camp was a joy for us as guests. The architecture was modern with a nod to safari camps of old, with leather, wood and brass fittings. The handsome open bar and dining area also had a section of paraphernalia from the late Norman Carr, a safari industry veteran. In it were some wonderful prints of him with two male lions he raised from cubs.

Giraffe on a drive from Chinzombo camp

A giraffe we saw on a drive from Chinzombo camp

Our open fronted luxury tented accommodations with a personal plunge pool and views out onto the Luangwa River were superb. Amenities that made us feel pampered included bathrobes, slippers, hot water bottles the staff placed in our bed during the evening room service, and complimentary drinks in the fridge.

Hippo viewing from the couch

River viewing from the couch

The cuisine at the camp was delicious, fresh and plentiful. We especially enjoyed the sundowners and cakes served on safari drives. It was a wonderful way to watch the sunset. Chinzombo had the feel of a modern luxury boutique hotel with safari influences and access to the amazing African bush at its doorstep. We thoroughly enjoyed our contemporary safari experience.

New luxury Right Bank hideaway also home to one the hottest bistros in Paris

Article and photos by Josette King

 The main entrance of La Régalade

The main entrance of La Régalade

In a city that boasts more than its fair share of venerable grande dame properties, it’s luxury boutique hotels that have been creating a buzz in Paris in recent years. And few have buzzed louder than the recently opened five star Hotel de Nell. What I enjoyed most about my recent visit there was, well, everything! The location first of all, in the heart of the tony 9th arrondissement, a Right Bank neighborhood of understated side streets lined with elegant balconied buildings of quarry stone, just north of the Grands Boulevards on the way to Montmartre. Although mainly overlooked by tourists, the quietly chic 9th has been a hub of Parisian intellectual and artistic life for more than two centuries, and retains to this day its 19th century atmosphere.

 The neo-gothic Church of Saint Eugène and Sainte Cecile

The neo-gothic Church of Saint Eugène and Sainte Cecile

One block down the street from the Hotel de Nell is the Conservatoire (music and dance academy founded in 1795) where Paris was first introduced to the music of Ludwig van Beethoven in 1828, and Hector Berlioz premiered his Symphonie Fantastique two years later. Around the corner, is the church of Saint Eugène et Sainte Cécile (Jules Verne was married there), a unique 19th century neo-gothic church, the first in Paris with its interior entirely metallic. The legendary Folies Bergères cabaret, with its 1930 Art Déco façade recently returned to its original gilded splendor, is one street over. And the place where George Sand and Frederic Chopin once lived (in separate apartments across from each other) is just a short walk away.

 The newly restored façade of the Folies Bergères cabaret

The newly restored façade of the Folies Bergères cabaret

I thoroughly enjoyed my leisurely exploration of the neighborhood. And I loved even more returning home to the serene luxury of the Hotel de Nell after my forays back in time to Paris’ Belle Epoque. Behind its impeccably restored 19th century façade with its lacy wrap-around wrought iron balconies, noted architect and designer Jean-Michel Vilmotte created a tranquil minimalist retreat that brilliantly combined mid-20th century-inspired furnishings with oriental details. The resulting Zen-like atmosphere permeated every corner of the property. But nowhere was it more in evidence than in my light-filled fifth story room with its romantic view of the neighborhood rooftops and its stunning bathroom with a white marble Japanese-style soaking tub and shoji screen-like unpolished glass windows.

 A votive candle cast a soft glow on the bathroom

A votive candle cast a soft glow on the bathroom

Then on the street floor, there was La Régalade, one of Paris’ hot new bistros. Here Bruno Doucet, one of the city’s leading young chefs, dished out a cuisine that has become so popular in recent years that a new word had to be invented for it: bistronomy. This is where gastronomy, and the skills Chef Doucet honed in the kitchens of Pierre Gagnaire and Jean-Pierre Vitago, is translated into simpler yet imaginative, more convivial bistro fare offered as a friendly three-course prix fixe formula. Small wonder that whether for lunch or dinner, reservations were strongly recommended during the week and definitely necessary on weekends.

La Cenerentola at Paris Palais Garnier delightful

By Elena del Valle*

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The interior of the Palais Garnier

For years we had wanted to attend an operatic performance at the Palais Garnier, the old opera in Paris, France. We had enjoyed one at Opera Bastille, the modern theater across town, and longed for the exuberant historic building’s greater intimacy. On our last visit to Paris we managed with no small amount of effort to obtain good seats in the ninth arrondisement building. La Cenerentola was one of a few operas performed in the theater that season and happily for us one that we liked.

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Marianna Pizzolato (Angelina)

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Claudia Galli (Clorinda), Nicola Alaimo (Dandini), Bruno De Simone (Don Magnifico), Marianna Pizzolato (Angelina), Maxim Mironov (Don Ramiro) et Anna Wall (Tisbe)

By the time we checked for tickets online several months in advance of our strip nearly all shows were sold out. Luck was on our side for a performance on a Sunday at 2:30 p.m. On the day of the three hour event, the weather was clear. We enjoyed a plentiful brunch prior to our arrival at the Palais.

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The three sisters in La Cenerentola

I was thankful that we arrived in a good mood. When we went to pick up our tickets at the window we encountered a long line. Worse yet we discovered the opera cashier was unable to accept any of several credit cards we offered making it necessary for us to pay in cash. Once inside, the lines for the coat check and the restroom were so long we avoided both. This meant no food or beverages during the intermission. And we were forced to carry our sweaters and coats as we strolled along exploring the beautiful halls of the old building.

La Cenerentola (saison 2011-2012)

A scene in La Cenerentola

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The ceiling of the Palais Garnier

 On the plus side, the interior of the theater was as pretty as we anticipated and the musical event was worthwhile on its own. While a few glitches detracted from the experience overall we were rewarded with an outstanding performance by the Bayerische Staatoper from Munich accompanied by the Orchestre et Choeur de l’Opera National de Paris.

*Photos of La Cenerentola courtesy of Opéra national de Paris/ Ch. Leiber and of the Palais Garnier by Gary Cox

Paris Alain Ducasse seafood restaurant worth revisting

By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox

Sauce for the langoustines

Sauce for the langoustines

We enjoyed our lunch at Rech, a well known seafood establishment in Paris, France. We were drawn to the restaurant because it was a new addition to the Alain Ducasse owned and managed properties portoflio. We have dined at several of the famous chef’s restaurants with pleasure. 

Mont Blanc de tradition, poire Pochée a la vanille

Mont Blanc de tradition, poire Pochée a la vanille

Well prepared seafood dishes, attentive English speaking staff, understated upstairs decor and a desirable location on the busy Avenue des Ternes in the seventeenth arrondissement would temp us back in the future. Favorite dishes included a langoustine starter (Délicat velouté de langoustines, d’autres marinées a cru au citron vert) and the Grenobloise-style skate fish (Aile de raie a la grenobloise). On a return visit I would also order the restaurant’s Camembert (Le fameux Camembert de Rech). 

Paris Latin Quarter spa boutique hotel offered pretty accommodations, luxury amenities, friendly service

By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox

Hotel and Spa La Belle Juliette

Hotel and Spa La Belle Juliette

The Hotel & Spa La Belle Juliette sits on a quiet street in the Latin Quarter of Paris, France. It’s conveniently located within one of the city’s most desirable neighborhoods. That alone would have attracted us for a look. There was much more to the hotel. Electronic and luxury amenities, gourmet treats, custom fragrance samples, bespoke decor, a size appropriate spa with plunge pool, attentive service, and English speaking staff were among the features we liked.

Rooms on each floor represented a period in Julliette's life.

Decor on each floor represented a period in Julliette’s life.

Our small rooms were pretty and stylish with modern amenities, handsome bathrooms, individual temperature controls and room service. The hotel’s common areas and the rooms followed a decorative theme focused on the life of Juliette Recamier, a historic figure popular in her day.

The common areas were decorated for the holidays

The breakfast area con the ground floor

Friendly youthful staff spoke English and appeared eager to help. The basement level small spa was worth a visit with a steam room, unisex changing room with shower, treatment room and a color light filled plunge pool. The single spa treatment I had was outstanding.

The spa downstairs added great features to the hotel

The tidy spa downstairs was an unexpected bonus

Breakfast choices though few were good. I especially liked the rich hot chocolate and the deli platter which while not inexpensive was large and delicious. This jewel of a property was the real deal and would draw us back in the future.