by Editor | Aug 22, 2011 | Luxury Travel
Article and photos by Laura Scheiber
Espa at The Ritz-Carlton, Powerscourt
During a trip to Ireland I had the pleasure of spending a morning at Espa at The Ritz-Carlton, Powerscourt in the lush County Wicklow countryside. Split between two floors, the 33,000 square-foot spa had a fitness room, 20-meter indoor pool, hot-pool, hamman (Turkish steam room), Serenity Room, thermal suites, and 22 treatment rooms. The rustic country setting added to the overall peaceful atmosphere of my visit.
Lounge chairs in the pool area at Espa
I started my morning with a facial from Michelle, one of the sixteen therapists on the premises. She used the Espa house brand of facial products and the treatment included two cleansings, exfoliation, massage, pink mud hair application and mineral masque treatment. Afterward I swam in the elegant pool inlaid with Swarovski crystals, sat in a hot-pool while listening to the soothing sound of a waterfall cascading down a sheet of black slate, and relaxed in a chic eucalyptus-scented hammam. By the time I left the spa, my muscles felt as loose as a wet noodle.
Lobby of Espa at The Ritz-Carlton, Powerscourt
Although the treatment I received was professional and of a high quality, as expected of a spa at The Ritz Carlton, it was the layout and decor of Espa (Powerscourt Estate, Enniskerry, County Wicklow Ireland, +353 1 274 9710, http://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/Powerscourt/Spa/Default.htm, powerscourtspa@ritzcarlton.com) that set it apart from other spas I have visited. A great deal of thought had gone into creating the perfect balance of modern minimalist design and nature. The elegant interior of low-lit stone, slate and wood, coupled with views of the surrounding mountains made this a unique and serene haven well worth the visit.
by Editor | Aug 15, 2011 | Luxury Travel
Article and photos by Josette King
The lodge was a colonial era country manor
Arusha has come a long way since in its origins as a sleepy early 20th century garrison town. Built by Germany as its center for colonial administration of the area, it was then little more than a backwater boma (fortified enclosure) and a few shops in a corner of the northern highlands of what is now Tanzania. A few decades later, the development of commercial air travel, and with it the popularity of mass tourism, changed all that. Ideally located within easy reach of Mount Kilimanjaro as well at the famed safari destinations of northern Tanzania (Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater and Lake Manyara, a.k.a. the Northern Circuit), Arusha was poised for explosive growth.
A mahogany-paneled bar occupied the rear wall
Today, with Kilimanjaro International Airport within an hour’s drive, the city has become a necessary stopover for most of the of the 300,000 foreign travelers that arrive there yearly, on the their way to the Northern Circuit via Arusha’s own small domestic airport. Modern international-style hotels are springing up throughout the town, along with all the businesses that cater to tourists; and the colorful chaos inherent in a booming African city of 400,000 inhabitants.
The sleeping area had mosquito netting draperies
However, when traveling to and from the bush my personal choice is for a more serene transition. I had already been in Tanzania for two weeks, visiting the remote parks in the south of the country by the time I arrived in Arusha to enter the Northern Circuit. When lack of coordination between the schedules of the various small local airlines that serve the two areas necessitated an overnight stopover, I turned my attention to hotel options in the outskirts of the city. I was delighted to discover the Serena Mountain Village.
A bird’s eye view of Mount Kilimanjaro
Located on the shore of Lake Duluti in the verdant foothills of Mount Meru, the property was a tranquil luxury retreat a mere 12 miles from Arusha. I loved the English country manor atmosphere of the main lodge, the contemporary comforts of the guest accommodations located in lush gardens overlooking the lake and the warm welcome of the well-trained staff. And when time came for my early morning flight to the Serengeti, I appreciated that Arusha airport was a stress-free 20 minute drive away.
Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review to read more about Tanzania and my stay at the Serena Mountain Village.
by Editor | Aug 8, 2011 | Luxury Travel
By Matthew Harris
Antarctic Wildlife book cover
Photos: Princeton University Press
The allure of Antarctica’s vast wilderness captures my imagination, particularly as it is home to some of the world’s most beautiful wildlife, living in a pristine environment devoid (mostly) of troublesome humans. Identifying this wildlife can be quite a challenge for amateur and expert alike, so having a comprehensive field guide is a must for the discerning traveler heading south. Antarctic Wildlife A Visitor’s Guide (Princeton University Press, $22.95) by James Lowen is just such a guide, written by an accomplished guidebook author who brings to bear his experience as an Antarctic naturalist guide working for Polar Star Expeditions.
The first part of the book provides information on conservation, choosing an Antarctic cruise, tips on identifying wildlife, and the animals that might be encountered in each of three regions visited on a typical cruise leaving from South America. The second part is a field guide with 155 pages of wildlife identification photos and supporting text.
Having visited Antarctica I found the background information in the first part of the book to be accurate and informative, especially with regard to choosing an ecologically sound cruise and the potential seasickness perils of the infamous Drake Passage. That said, since the main aim of this book is to be a field guide, some may find these sections a bit brief compared to dedicated books on topics such as Antarctic conservation.
The wildlife introduction and identification tips are clear and should be a great help to those new to wildlife observation. One well thought out aspect of the book is that the author summarizes the animals and plants which might be encountered in each of three geographic regions: The Beagle Channel, Drake Passage, and Antarctic Peninsula. These summaries include look up tables the reader can use to jump to more detailed Species Accounts in the main field guide section. Since the vast majority of Antarctic cruises visit these three regions, this layout should enable the reader to identify wildlife quickly in the field.
The book really comes into its own with the main field guide section. Each page has Species Accounts with accompanying photos. The exceptions are especially notable animals which have longer dedicated sections (e.g. Penguins). The text provides details on how to identify each animal as well as interesting tidbits of information called Talking Points. Also included are tables listing rarity, conservation status, species metrics and the area where each animal is typically encountered.
James Lowen, author, Antarctic Wildlife
The identification text is split into two sections, one basic summary for the amateur and beneath this a more detailed description for the avid enthusiast. The supporting images are excellent, chosen for clear field identification, and it’s impressive to note that the author took many of them himself. Overall the list of animals seems comprehensive and covered everything I saw on my trip, plus a host I would hope to see the next time I visit.
This is an excellent field guide, well laid out with photos and easy-to-access information. The guide has good emphasis on conservation throughout and some of the proceeds go to the Save the Albatross campaign. It will definitely accompany me on my next trip to Antarctica.
Click to buy Antarctic Wildlife
by Editor | Aug 1, 2011 | Luxury Travel
Article and photos by Laura Scheiber
Exterior of Barberstown Castle
When catching an international flight, it is comforting to know that traffic to the airport will not be an issue. Thanks to its location near the airport Barberstown Castle offered this security and also provided a unique experience of staying in a four-star medieval castle previously owned by Eric Clapton.
Art in the lobby area of Barberstown Castle
My travel partners and I arrived at Barberstown Castle, located a half hour outside of Dublin city center, in the late afternoon after five days of touring South East Ireland. Candy, a 15 year-old golden retriever who made her home at the castle, greeted us with a wag of her tail as we entered the naturally-lit cheerful lobby. A friendly and unassuming receptionist showed me to room 59.
Room 59 at Barberstown Castle
Although the view looked out onto a parking lot, the room was clean and spacious with a double and twin bed. Details that contributed to the cozy ambiance of the room included an attractive glass chandelier and antique furniture that fit the castle setting. As it was a blustery evening, I appreciated the plush bathrobe and towels hanging on an electric towel warmer.
Table used for receptions
Just before dinner, my travel companions and I enjoyed complimentary champagne in the lobby before getting a tour of the castle. Originally built in 1288, the current proprietor, Kenneth Healy, bought the castle in 1987 from Eric Clapton and converted the 10-bedroom guesthouse to 59 bedrooms. While the oldest section dated back to medieval times, additional wings had been added on during Victorian and Elizabethan times. The castle maintained its historic infrastructure and design, and also incorporated modern comforts, such as heating and a pleasant sitting area with large glass windows looking out onto the property’s well-manicured gardens.
Dining in the 13th century castle
We enjoyed a delicious six-course dinner in the oldest section of the castle. The candle-lit room added to the already enigmatic atmosphere. After dinner we moved to the cozy bar area and enjoyed live Irish music with a professional singer, flutist and traditional Irish bodhran drummer.
The next day we headed to the airport for our return to the United States. The route from Barberstown Castle was on a motorway with no major traffic lights. As promised, we made it to the airport in 30 minutes.
My stay at the castle (Barberstown Castle, Straffan, County Kildare, Ireland, telephone +353 1 6288157, http://www.barberstowncastle.ie/) was a delightful way to wrap up my Irish holiday. The castle’s unique setting dating back from medieval, Victorian and Elizabethan times, the tasty dinner, hospitable staff, live Irish music and close proximity to the airport offered an enjoyable alternative to staying in Dublin city prior to departing Ireland.
by Editor | Jul 5, 2011 | Accomodations, Luxury Travel, Restaurants
Article and photos by Laura Scheiber
Lobby of The Ritz-Carlton, Powerscourt
During a springtime trip to Ireland, my travel partners and I stayed at The Ritz-Carlton, Powerscourt. Located on the grounds of the 1,000-acre Powerscourt Estate in County Wicklow, the resort was situated in a lush green countryside setting roughly 40 minutes outside of Dublin.
The lobby had a majestic feel with high ceilings and was tastefully decorated in deep wooden browns and gold, with vibrant fresh flowers. Following the check-in, the front desk receptionist escorted me to my Mountain View Suite (number 352). On the way she chatted with me in a friendly manner, suggesting a number of activities that I might enjoy.
The bedroom in suite 352
Upon opening the door I was pleased by the elegant décor of the 700 square-foot suite. The entry hallway, which had a powder room on the right hand side, led to a Georgian style sitting room with an ornamental fireplace. Around the corner was a spacious area with a dining table and a large wooden desk. Farthest from the entrance was the bedroom opening out onto a terrace that provided a view of Sugar Loaf Mountain. Next to the bedroom and walk-in closet was a generous-sized bathroom with a separate bathtub, shower and toilet room.
Fresh scones upon arrival
Five minutes after I arrived, one of the staff members delivered freshly baked scones (still warm) with butter and jam. The suite had numerous modern details, including a touch screen system that controlled the lights, curtains and air conditioning, and televisions in the sitting area, bedroom and bathroom. Toiletries included: Gilchrist & Soames Bath Caviar (bath beads), facial spray and lip balm; Ritz-Carlton mouth wash and dental kit; and 1.3 ounce-sized Acqua Di Parma shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, soap, and lotion. Two plush terry robes hung on the bathroom wall next to the shower.
The color scheme of the suite was white, gold and light blue, while the bathroom had predominantly white-marble walls. The suite was immaculately clean. Throughout the evening I enjoyed a number of additional amenities including complimentary 24-hour hi speed wi-fi access, a complimentary box of eight gourmet chocolate truffles, and turn down service that included a bottle of mountain spring still water and relaxing pillow spray.
The John Dory fish in blood orange puree at Gordon Ramsay at Powerscourt
In the evening, I dined at the Gordon Ramsay at Powerscourt restaurant on the third floor of the hotel. Ceiling-to-floor glass windows offered stunning views of Sugar Loaf Mountain and added a spacious feel to the dining area. I enjoyed a six-course meal that began with a green pea puree, compliments of the chef, followed by a goat cheese and red beet salad. My main course was preceded by a delicious spring garlic puree. While I enjoyed a yummy spinach and mushroom gnocchi, my travel mates had rave reviews about their John Dory fish in a blood orange puree, fennel salad and chorizo emulsion, and the Donald Russell beef fillet with wild mushrooms, triple cooked chips, and pepper sauce. The meal was complete with a mouthwatering lemon curd on Brittany shortbread and crystallized raspberries.
We enjoyed complimentary gourmet mini chocolates and pastries at the chef’s table in the kitchen where we met Ludovic Lantier, the executive pastry chef. He explained what was in each of the mini-pastries and answered our questions in a friendly manner.
Ludovic Lantier, executive pastry chef
Throughout the meal, my wine glass was never empty thanks to the attentive wait staff. Both the Cerro Del Masso, a Chianti red wine, and the Las Colinas del Ebro, a Garnacha white wine from Spain, went well with the meal, but I preferred the white wine. The wait staff and manager were friendly and seemed genuinely committed to ensuring that we had an enjoyable dining experience.
Overall, my stay at The Ritz-Carlton, Powerscourt, (Powerscourt Estate, Enniskerry, Ireland, + 353 1 274 8888, http://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/Powerscourt/Default.htm, powerscourtreservations@ritzcarlton.com) was a pleasure. My spacious and luxurious suite with mountain views combined with the hotel’s elegant ambiance, friendly service, and gourmet dining lived up to my expectations of an evening at The Ritz-Carlton.
by Editor | Jun 20, 2011 | Luxury Travel
Article and photos by Laura Scheiber
Driving along in the countryside in County Wexford
This was my third visit to Ireland, but the first time touring the South East of the Green Isle. After landing in Dublin on a sunny spring day, my travel partners and I spent the next six days exploring the many delights of County Wicklow, County Wexford, County Waterford, and County Kilkenny. Driving gave us the opportunity to take in the idyllic green countryside, impressive coastline, and fascinating medieval architecture.
Ken Healy, proprietor, Barberstown Castle
Throughout the week we stayed in five different luxury accommodations: the Shelbourne Hotel Dublin, a landmark building in central Dublin (27 Saint Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Ireland, + 353 1 663 4500, www.theshelbourne.ie), The Ritz-Carlton Powerscourt, a well known countryside spa and resort (Powerscourt Estate, Enniskerry, Ireland, + 353 1 274 8888, http://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/Powerscourt/Default.htm, powerscourtreservations@ritzcarlton.com), Dunbrody Country House Hotel, a country Georgian manor situated in 300 acres of lush gardens (Arthurstown, County Wexford Ireland, +353 51 389 600, http://www.dunbrodyhouse.com/, info@dunbrodyhouse.com), the Cliff House Hotel, a seaside hotel (Ardmore, County Waterford, Ireland, + 353 24 87 800, http://www.thecliffhousehotel.com/, info@thecliffhousehotel.com), and Barberstown Castle which dated back to 1288 (Straffan, County Kildare, Ireland, +353 1 6288157, http://www.barberstowncastle.ie/).
The Serenity Room at Espa at The Ritz-Carlton Powerscourt
I thoroughly enjoyed all of the accommodations and hope to return. One of the most memorable facilities was the spa at The Ritz-Carlton Powerscourt. Boasting 33,000 square feet in size, I especially enjoyed the pool that had 160 Swarovski crystals embedded in the bottom. The crystals reflected onto the ceiling to give the effect of a starlit evening. Situated in a low-lit room, I felt as if I was swimming in my own private pond on a summer’s evening. Simply divine.
Original bell from the Dunbrody Ship
On our third day, we visited the Dunbrody Famine Ship in New Ross, County Wexford (+353 51 425239, http://www.dunbrody.com/). The ship was a replica of the actual one that transported thousands of immigrants to North America in the 1800s during the Great Famine of Ireland. Our guide offered a fascinating travel back in time, and the interactive nature of the ship museum brought to life the daunting journey families embarked upon in their quest for a better life. Being one of the more than 35 million Americans who can trace their ancestry to Irish roots, I found the Dunbrody Famine Ship so captivating that it instigated a desire to learn more about my family’s Irish origins.
The Blowing Department at the Waterford Crystal Factory
The following day, we visited the new House of Waterford Crystal Factory (The Mall, Waterford City, Ireland, + 353 51 317000, http://www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com/). The 45 minute tour took us through the main working areas of the factory. I liked that the tour put us just feet away from the workers and we had the opportunity to interact with them. On that particular day, some of the sculptors were working on the People’s Choice Awards. While I am not a huge fan of crystal, I found the tour interesting and couldn’t resist purchasing a Waterford item available only in the showroom.
Outside of Kyteler’s Inn
My favorite cultural activity was a lesson on the traditional Irish bodhran drum at Kyteler’s Inn in Kilkenny (Kieran Street, Kilkenny, +353 56 772 1064, http://www.kytelersinn.ie/contact.asp). Our boisterous instructor, Helen McLoughlin (helenbodhran@hotmail.com), first demonstrated how to play the instrument and then sat us in a line of chairs with bodhrans in hand. She had us in stitches from her quick Irish wit, which helped ease our insecurities as we learned to play some basic rhythms. The interactive nature of the lesson which included singing traditional Irish folk songs lifted my spirits.
Downstairs bar at L’Escrivain
I was pleasantly surprised to enjoy five nights of outstanding gastronomy. In all of the restaurants, the executive chefs used fresh local produce and locally sourced seafood. My travel partners and I compared our favorite dishes. A professional foodie said that her main dish (Breckland duck with butternut squash and pine nut dressing) at L’Escrivain Restaurant (109a Lower Baggot Street, Dublin 2, + 353 1 6611919, http://www.lecrivain.com/, enquiries@lecrivain.com) was the best duck she had ever eaten.
Beef tea at the Cliff House Hotel Restaurant
My favorite restaurant in terms of artistic food presentation and exquisite hospitality was The House restaurant at the Cliff House Hotel. We enjoyed a number of innovations by Executive Chef Martin Kajuiter such as “beef tea,” a beef broth for the Black Angus beef, which was delivered in a tea press teapot. I enjoyed the Helvick cod with spinach and Dingle Bay Crab carefully wrapped in a special package to seal in the flavors.
Dining table at The Harvest Room Restaurant
At Barberstown Castle, my six-course meal included scrumptious panned fried scallops and halibut in a citrus butter sauce. We dined in the oldest section of the medieval castle, and it felt as if I had been magically transferred back to the 1300s. The Harvest Room Restaurant at Dunbrody Country House Hotel offered a charming romantic country setting, and I will never forget that heavenly chocolate lava cake and divine Chateau Bel Air Perpencher, a Bordeaux red wine. The service in the restaurants was friendly and attentive without being overbearing.
All in all, my travels in South East Ireland were unforgettable. I would recommend the region to any of my family and friends who are captivated by Celtic history and culture, interested in finding out more about their Irish ancestry, or for those who enjoy the delights of gourmet Irish cuisine.
