by Editor | Jan 27, 2014 | Luxury Travel
Article and photos by Josette King
The beds were draped with mosquito netting in the Chilton Suite.
After three weeks of an exciting southeastern Africa itinerary that had me bouncing from off the grid havens to some of most sought after safari destinations in the region, I was beginning to feel worse for the wear by the time I reached Little Garonga. I knew right away that I had arrived at just the right place to unwind before the long journey home. Set deep into the privately owned, self contained 22,000 hectare (85 square mile) Greater Makalali Conservancy, west of the world famous Kruger National Park, and with only three secluded guests accommodations, Little Garonga was an intimate, no pressure luxury retreat that focused as much on relaxation and self indulgence as it did on traditional game viewing activities.
The water hole provided some great game viewing opportunities
The first word that came to mind as I settled into my room was Zen, not a term I usually associate with the African wilderness, but a feeling doubtless reinforced by the miniature Buddha statue in the center of my coffee table sandbox. Then there was the serene elegance of the room itself, filled with light and decorated in the pale colors of the dry season bush, and the low wooden yoga bed, paired up with an inviting white canvas hammock strung across my thatched veranda. Already I could feel my breath slowing down.
A young zebra heading to the water hole
Even the game drives were laid back, with our low key guiding team well familiar with the habits of the Makalali resident game. They knew to position our vehicle where the game would come to us: rhinos oblivious to our presence as they browsed within feet of us, lions coming up from the river, cheetahs on their way to the water hole; it was a lovely opportunity to say goodbye to the African wildlife. Even the notoriously shy steenbok came to pause for a picture. But when I think back on my visit to Little Garonga, what I remember most are the quiet dinners under the stars, on the lodge’s deck romantically lit by the dancing flames of the fire pit and myriad votive candles, and the huge African sky reflected in the sapphire swimming pool.
by Editor | Jan 13, 2014 | Accomodations, Luxury Travel, New Articles
Article and photos by Josette King
Rue Royale and Place de la Concorde at night.
Although I am a regular visitor to Paris, it had been years since I had set foot around the Rue Royale, the short street that runs between Place de la Madeleine and Place de la Concorde, within the posh Right Bank enclave where the first and eight arrondissements meet. There, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore on one side, and Rue Saint-Honore on the other, share a directory of addresses that represent the Gotha of French and international haute couture. Then just around the corner, Place Vendome is home to some of the world’s most renowned jewelry houses (Cartier, Van Cleef and Arpels, Boucheron, Chaumet et al.).
The bedroom of the Opera Suite.
Being of one mind with Lady Windermere (“I can resist anything but temptation.”), I suppose I instinctively felt it best not to venture too far into this bastion of enticing luxuries until my recent stay at Le Burgundy, a five star boutique hotel that opened in 2010 on Rue Duphot, just off Rue Saint-Honore.
Originally, the winning argument for my choice of Le Burgundy was its in house spa, complete with 15 meter (50 foot) long swimming pool, hammam and sauna, a rarity among boutique properties in Paris.
The winter garden opened onto the dining room.
That it had already garnered a solid reputation for the luxury of its accommodations and excellence of its service had only faintly registered in my awareness, until I checked in. From the warm welcome of the doorman who relieved me from my bulky carry on bag before I had even made it through the front door to the reception staff who had me settled in my suite in record time, the tone was set. The service was attentive and unobtrusive every moment of my stay.
There was an arching waterfall at the far end of the pool.
My spacious second floor suite, Opera, (the eight suites were named after some of the most iconic nearby landmarks) was an intimate urban retreat decorated in an understated classic style with contemporary touches and the latest modern amenities. I especially enjoyed the vast bathroom with its top of the line whirlpool bathtub and oversized walk in shower with high pressure rain showerhead and six moveable body jets. And then, for the ultimate Parisian apartment luxury, the bedroom’s French doors opened onto an inviting private terrace surrounded by large tubs of lush shrubbery.
Place Vendome was only a few minutes’ walk from Le Burgundy
It was a pleasure to relax there between marathon visits at the nearby Musee du Louvre and Galerie Nationale du Jeu de Paume, a museum of contemporary arts.
And yes, I did enjoy window shopping around this chicest of Paris neighborhoods every time I stepped outside Le Burgundy. But beyond its privileged location and excellent accommodations and service, it was the unique indulgence of starting each day with an invigorating swim followed by a scented eucalyptus and citrus steam bath that propelled Le Burgundy to the top of my favorite Paris addresses.
by Editor | Jan 1, 2014 | Luxury Travel
Happy New Year 2014
Wishing you a wondrous, healthy and safe 2014 from all of us at Simon & Baker Travel Review and Luxury Travel Review!
by Editor | Dec 2, 2013 | Attractions, Ecotourism, Luxury Travel
Article and photos by Laura Scheiber
A double rainbow over Victoria Falls
During a trip to Zambia, I visited Victoria Falls, a UNESCO world heritage site forming part of the border of Zambia and Zimbabwe. Powered by the mighty Zambezi River, the falls are over 1,700 meters in width, and an impressive 100 meter drop. The Falls are known in the local language as Mosi-oa-Tunya meaning The Smoke that Thunders. I was in awe at the spray that loomed above this geographic wonder that has bragging rights to the greatest sheet of falling water in the world. One of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, I anticipated it to be beautiful, but Victoria Falls was beyond my expectations in terms of size, strength and magnificence.
To get to Victoria Falls, I took a one hour flight from Lusaka to Livingstone within Zambia. I stayed at Stanley Safari Lodge, a luxury lodge tucked away on a hillside in the African bush, just a ten minute drive from the falls.
The bridge connecting Zambia and Zimbabwe
To enter Victoria Falls, I had to register at an entry point. International guests at the time of my visit in June 2013 had to pay a fee of $20. Luckily for me, the staff at my lodge arranged day and night walking tours with a private guide, Effeso Hammabola, who helped me navigate through the entry process.
Since I happened to be visiting during a full moon, I had the opportunity to do an evening Luna Tour. The highlight was seeing a rainbow at night, illuminated by the moon above the falls. We stopped at four different viewing points along the man made walkway on the edge of the falls during the hour long tour. I was amazed at how close we could get to the bank of the river just before it spilled over the edge.
Though I enjoyed the evening tour, I much preferred my day visit when I could fully appreciate the beauty and impressive size of the falls.
Effeso Hammabola, my Victoria Falls guide
Thanks to the proximity of my accommodations I was the first guest to arrive and finished up my two hour tour before hoards of tourists entered the site. Starting at the bank of the river, Effeso and I followed the walkway that had numerous lookout points from different angles, including the side of the falls, directly facing the falls and views of the Zimbabwe side where we could see a series of gorges. It was a pleasant pathway with many trees and greenery surrounding it.
I visited at the end of June, which was an ideal time because there was still an impressive amount of water in the Zambezi River that powered the falls yet the water flow wasn’t so strong that the amount of spray made it difficult to see, which happens, I was told, during the wet season.
Spray from Victoria Falls
Overall my trip to the area was an unforgettable experience due to the awe inspiring size, incredible force and utter beauty of Victoria Falls. I would recommend a trip to friends and family who are interested in geographic wonders. I also would return to Stanley Safari Lodge to steer clear of the urban hustle and bustle of Livingstone while remaining close enough to the falls in the early morning hours.
by Editor | Oct 21, 2013 | Food, Luxury Travel
By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox
Foley’s Bakery is on the ground floor of an office building
On a crisp, cool fall morning in Portland, Maine we found Foley’s Cakes (Foley’s Cakes, 1 Monument Way, Portland, Maine 04101, + 207-773-CAKE (2253), http://foleyscakes.com), a small bakery and cake shop on the ground floor of an office building in the heart of the city. It was an easy walk from our accommodations. What drew us back regularly in a city with a high ratio of bakeries was the warm welcome from its owners and some treats that quickly became favorites such as the buttery and flaky ham and cheese croissants.
The reverse chocolate chip cookie was a favorite
We also became fans of the extra large cookies. We sampled the chocolate cookies with white chocolate chunks and the peanut butter cookies first. We loved the shop’s wholesome flavors and were especially pleased to discover everything they sold was made fresh from scratch on the premises without any artificial ingredients or preservatives. Increasingly we encounter stores and bakeries that sell products previously frozen or made or premade by someone else. Finding a bakery that sold only fresh products made onsite such as theirs was a pleasure.
Ed and Molly Foley in front of one of the display cases
Pastry chef Ed Foley and his wife Molly were the owners of Foley’s Cakes, a European-style bakery established in 2011. Previous to that they had owned the original Foley’s Bakery also in central Portland from 1997 to 2002. He made all the well presented and appetizing baked goods sold at the shop facing Monument Square.
In a corner on the right side of the shop, there was a refrigerator with cold beverages and next to it a self service hot beverages section. As we sat at one of a half a dozen tables drinking coffee and tea and munching of croissants and cookies, we watched a steady flow of regular customers stream by, many buying baked goods to go. Molly greeted most by name. She seemed to know effortlessly what everyone’s favorites were from the child celebrating her birthday to the business executive with guests. By our second visit she remembered my preference for the white chocolate chunk cookies and my travel partner’s preference for the peanut butter ones.
The tempting display of pastries
On display in two large cases there was a line of pastries, cookies, and cakes made on site. We could see the racks and baking equipment behind the cash register on the left side of the open room. Wedding cakes were also available according to the shop’s website.
“The fact that all of the baked goods are made from scratch plus the baked goods we offer are unique to Foley’s,” Molly said when asked what makes their shop special.
The ham and cheese croissant was a favorite
Chef Foley, with 20 years of experience, trained with European pastry chefs in the United States. Prior to opening his own shop he worked at The Grand Hotel, Mackinac Island, Michigan; Gasparilla Inn & Cottages, Boca Grande, Florida; The Tivoli Restaurant and Pastry Shop, Rosslyn, Virginia; and The Watergate Pastry Shop, Washington, D.C.; and was an instructor at the New England Culinary Institute, Montpelier, Vermont.
The cinnamon swirl
There were so many tempting cakes and pastries in the shop I left without sampling I’m hoping for a second visit to Maine’s largest city. For example, Foley’s best selling cake is the Marble Mousse Cake. It is made of two thin layers of chocolate cake with a thick layer of chocolate mousse, a thick layer of white chocolate mousse and a thin layer of pound cake covered in chocolate ganache.
by Editor | Aug 19, 2013 | Luxury Travel
Taking Root in Provence by Anne-Marie Simons*
Anne-Marie Simons and her husband Oscar were self proclaimed gypsy souls who decided to settle down somewhere during their early retirement. In 1998, the couple set out to find a home that offered pleasant weather, culture, natural beauty and access to international travel. They found their requirements in a French urban setting, Aix-en-Provence, where they have been living full-time ever since.
Simons authored Taking Root in Provence (Distinction Press, $15.95), a 208-page softcover book about their life in Provence, France published in 2011. The easy to read book is divided into 40 short chapters followed by 13 of Oscar’s regional recipes. She discusses various aspects of their life in Aix-en-Provence from the market, their apartment chimney, how they buy truffles from a restaurant owner to avoid the ubiquitous Chinese impostors, to Christmas in Provence and more. In the closing chapter, she draws attention to things that may surprise foreigners such as public urination of children and adults so common no one notices, air kisses, bare breasted sunbathers at the beach, well behaved dogs in restaurants, and the “national craze” for food.
She estimates 35,000 anglophones make the region their home. Many of them belong to the Anglo-American Group of Provence.
“They have a bridge club, a hiking club, clubs for gardening, cycling, cooking, etc. This is a great help to those who do not speak French and makes the transition easier. Also, this group tends to favor the countryside over the city, and most have bought homes with gardens and swimming pools which are being put to good use given that the local climate allows you to eat outside during a good part of the year. For many of these people Provence is a second home and they often have held on to a foreign address,” she said by email.
When asked about changes in her area resulting from the economic downfall she responds, “If much has changed since the Great Recession, it seems to have had little effect on Aix-en-Provence and our region. There are as many tourists as ever but perhaps I am hearing a bit more Russian and Chinese (the deepest pockets). If some shops are closing, others quickly take their place; restaurants and bars are still full; and our opera festival sold out, as usual. The change seems to be elsewhere: there are factory closings in France and I hear that the Chinese are buying up French wineries, especially in the Bordeaux area. Real estate has been affected also: houses are not selling like before and there is quite a bit of supply.”
Anne-Marie Simons, author, Taking Root in Provence, and her husband Oscar Rodriguez-Rozic*
“What we like best? Without a doubt: the quality of life. We may have different tastes and interests, but I don’t know anyone who would not like to live in an environment of great natural beauty and a climate with 300 days of sun a year; daily markets; very good public service (national healthcare, education, public transportation), and subsidized culture which is at least partly responsible for the fact that we have five bookshops and three movie theaters in the center of Aix (while they are leaving city centers in the U.S.). Proximity to the Mediterranean and the abundance of healthy fresh produce directly from the farm are added pleasures.”
When asked about the possible impact of taxes on the wealthy she said, “There’s been a lot of talk about the high taxes in France including celebrities that have moved to a neighboring country to save taxes. What has been your experience in that regard?” she replied: “This has not affected us at all. When the Socialist candidate François Hollande won the presidential elections last year, one of his campaign promises had been that he would ‘tax the rich’ by putting a 75 percent income tax on all private income over €1 million per year. Since I am not in that category (nor are most of the retired expatriates here) this threat did not concern us and, in fact, has since been rejected by the French Supreme Court as discriminatory. People like French actor Gérard Depardieu and businessman Bernard Arnault who both moved to neighboring Belgium and applied for citizenship there to avoid this tax hit at home, have become a ’cause célèbre’ and attracted a lot of attention. Predictably, this political issue was called an ‘invitation to tax flight’ by the right and ‘a call to solidarity when the country is in financial straights’ by the left, and has since died down. Ever since this tax on the rich was declared illegal, the French Finance Minister has announced that he will rewrite and resubmit the 75 percent tax requirement to suit the existing tax laws, but this will take time and now that everyone is forewarned there will surely be few “victims”. In short, this issue has come and gone and is no longer talked about.”
Simons work experience includes translator, teacher, director of corporate communications and journalist. She writes ProvenceToday.blogspot, a blog about Provence. Her husband is a former international development banker now dedicated to Provencal cooking among other things.
*Book cover photo courtesy of Taking Root in Provence media page and photo of author and her husband courtesy of Marie Hennechart Photography
