Hansar Samui, a new beachfront hotel and spa in Koh Samui, Thailand

Article and photos by Elena del Valle

Hansar Samui Hotel

The Hansar Samui

After a difficult flight to the island of Koh Samui in Thailand, I exited the airport to discover it was necessary to follow what felt like a long, partly on an incline, path to the passenger pick up area. It was hot and humid and by the time I made it there I was sweating and desperate to leave the airport.

Room at the Hansar Sumai

My room at the hotel

As I pushed my luggage cart up the last part of the incline I spotted a friendly looking man with a turquoise polo short at the head of the line of people waiting for passengers. Later I learned his name, Sin Samney “Sam,” the Hansar Samui front desk manager and concierge. Sam held a sign with my name on it and a radiant smile that melted my sour mood instantly. “Pop,” the hotel driver was with him and while Sam greeted me Pop went to fetch the car from the parking lot in front of us. A moment later I was comfortably seated inside the air conditioned hotel car holding a refresher towel and drinking chilled water.

Beach View from the Hansar Sumai

The beach view from the lounge

That set the tone for my stay at the Hansar Samui. I thoroughly enjoyed my beach front handsome room with a covered balcony as well as the hotel spa, fitness center, restaurant, and saltwater infinity edge swimming pool. I will remember the hotel for the staff’s friendliness and thoughtful touches like the constant supply of mangoosteens in my room fruit bowl when they found out it was a favorite (I bought some at the village market), and amenities like the nightly home baked sweets and chocolates.

Hansar Bistro Sweets

Sweets from H-Bistro

While I was there I had an opportunity to sample the new H-Bistro Tasting Menu. The first course was perfectly cooked Seared Hokaido scallops with celeriac, cherry tomato compote and Riesling foam. Then there was a delightful Pan fried foie gras liver with rapberry yogurt and rapberry essence followed by a delicious Linguini pasta with, garlic, red chili, tiger prawn, Dutch Mussels and fresh dill. For the next course we could select one from the following three: Pan seared Arctic Char with ratatouille, eggplant and lobster foam or Slow cooked Bresse baby chicken with white asparagus, crispy guanciale and Black summer truffle sauce or Grilled Canadian Lobster with garlic butter and rocket salad. I was able to sample the chicken (a favorite) and the lobster. Although dessert was not part of the set menu we had saved room to sample Warm melted chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream and Pineapple ravioli both of which provided a satisfying completion the lovingly prepared and artfully presented meal.

H-Bistro Foie Gras

Foie gras at H-Bistro

Chicken at H-Bistro

The chicken was a favorite

From Indra Budiman the affable general manager, to Stephen Jean Dion, Hansar’s executive chef, the restaurant staff who I met the day I sampled the H-Bistro Tasting Menu; to the front desk staff, the room service staff, the ladies at the spa, the young men in the pool area and nearly every staff member I had a chance to meet I felt welcome, even when our communication was limited by language.

Hansar Chef

Hansar Chef Stephen Jean Dion

You can read more about my stay at the Hansar Samui and the Luxsa Spa in Koh Samui, Thailand at the Simon & Baker Travel Review.

The Breakers, a Florida icon

By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox

The Breakers Hotel

The Breakers Palm Beach

This family owned and family friendly resort in tony Palm Beach Island in Florida’s east coast made fans out of us. There are many reasons to like the 140-acre property such as its handsome Italian design interiors and pretty rooms, beachfront location, two 18-hole championship golf courses, ocean facing swimming pools, spacious spa, boutiques and multiple restaurants. Our favorites: the manicured look pervasive throughout the resort including uniformed staff and the high level of service, often friendly and helpful, wherever we went.

Fountain at the Breakers

There were many comfortable areas to relax and enjoy the property

We enjoyed a midweek stay just as the season was closing and although the weather did not cooperate as much as we would have liked (there was a constant lifeguard red flag during our stay) we appreciated the calm environs. We particularly enjoyed massages at the resort spa, a sunset dinner at the The Flagler Steakhouse and a molecular gastronomy tasting menu dinner at L’Escalier, the resort’s gourmet restaurant.

Elaborate cuisine at L'Escalier

Cuisine as art at L’Escalier

Another favorite was a day at Beach Bungalow 17, one of several day rental cabanas fronting the adult relaxation infinity pool and facing the beach beyond. The bungalow provided quiet space aside from the crowded pool area and the private area with a concierge made our time under the sun especially relaxing. The 150-square foot indoor area plus a segregated patio was stocked with some complimentary amenities and plenty of pool towels. For sun time the patio had three outdoor lounge chairs and an umbrella.

A pool bungalow at the Breakers

Beach Bungalow 17

Inside the open air space had a ceiling fan and a tower fan, lanai, armchair, rectangular wood table, private outdoor shower, water closet and sink, binoculars, house brand toiletries (body lotion, bathing gel, shampoo, conditioner, liquid soap), blow dryer, tissue paper, WiFi connection, LG flatscreen television with satellite connection, Zenith DVD player, fruit bowl, ice bucket and mini refrigerator stocked with house brand purified complimentary water. There were also four types sodas and snacks in our bungalow for purchase (Snickers, Skittles, Reese’s, M & M and PowerBar).

A private getaway at the Breakers pool

Our view of the pool and ocean beyond from inside the bungalow

Krissy, our concierge

Krissy, our Bungalo concierge, made sure we had everything we needed with a smile

Although the resort facilities and amenities were within easy reach it was nice to know we did not have to do anything or go anywhere if we did not care to. Even lunch was easy.

We selected Florida Fish Tacos, Turkey Club Wrap and a side order of Avocado Fries from the Ocean Grill menu in our bungalow and placed our order with Krissy, a uniformed concierge who checked on us regularly. Within minutes our food arrived. In case we were still peckish around 3:30 p.m. she brought a styrofoam plate of frozen grapes. We wrapped up our day feeling lazy and relaxed and ready for dinner at Echo, the resort’s offsite Asian eatery a short shuttle ride away in downtown Palm Beach. Click here to read about our experience at The Breakers Palm Beach, The Spa at The Breakers and L’Escalier.

Duck wraps from Echo

The duck at Echo was served with flour wraps and crisp vegetables

Charming hotel made our stay memorable in Naples, Italy

By Elena del Valle, photos by Gary Cox

Even before we arrived we were intrigued. We had heard much about Naples, Italy and were curious to discover a little of the famed city during a two-night stop en route to Ischia, a nearby spa oriented island. The hotel we were staying at also seemed interesting. The newest luxury hotel in the city designed by a Japanese architectural team and named Romeo made us wonder what our stay there would be like. The hotel won our hearts and our stay in Naples turned out to be one of the most fun during our two week sojourn in Italy.

Suite at Romeo Hotel

Modern decor in the suite at the Romeo Hotel

We took advantage of the hotel’s port fronting location within walking distance of the old town and the tourist area to explore Naples on foot and in apparent reciprocity the city shared some of its many charms with us. Religion, Catholicism to be precise, is a big part of Naples and signs of it permeate the city. Food and eating also seem to play a big role in Neapolitan lives. We did what we could to discover a bit of the southern city’s foodie finds including some marvelous pizza. Many of our discoveries were facilitated by recommendations and guidance including a book in our suite and in person advice from the hotel staff.

Shops in Naples

Shops in Naples featuring locally crafted goods

We liked the art filled common areas and the modern features of the hotel (although they took getting used to) like the elevator which required us to select a floor before boarding. Our Japanese influenced corner suite (Suite 702) with a view was pretty and functional, our favorite that trip. The staff were very friendly and helpful beyond our expectations. Cocktails and sushi bites followed by dinner at Il Comandante were a wonderful foodie surprise. Click here to read about our stay at the Hotel Romeo.

Samurai Armor by the Sushi Bar

Samurai armor outside the Sushi Bar at the Romeo Hotel

Regina Isabella, a seaside hotel and spa in Ischia, Italy

Photos by Gary Cox

Ischia

The distinctive rock Fungo is just offshore of Lacco Ameno

The ferry to Ischia

The ferry from Naples to Ischia

Earlier this year, one of our teams visited the island of Ischia near Naples best known for its thermal springs and spa facilities. While in Ischia, our team stayed at the well known Albergo della Regina Isabella in the tiny town of Lacco Ameno on the island’s northern coast. The seaside hotel had a large health spa and in house dining options including Ristorante Indaco, a gourmet restaurant (see A surprisingly delicious dinner at L’Albergo della Regina Isabella). Click here to read about their stay at Albergo della Regina Isabella and their spa treatments at Terme Della Regina Isabella, the hotel spa.

Regina Isabella water view

The Regina Isabella sits right on the water in Ischia

Local chef in Ischia

Chef Pasquale Padamaro, a native of Ischia

What we liked about Naples, Italy

By Elena del Valle, photos by Gary Cox

Naples was one of the stops in a spring multi-city trip we made to Italy earlier this year. Although in past years my travel partner and I had visited the region more than once, it was the first time we stayed in the coastal city. We arrived by train from Rome on a bright and sunny Tuesday at lunchtime to discover a lively and colorful city.

Pompeii in the Distance

On a clear day we could see Mount Vesuvius from our hotel

Within minutes we had maneuvered through the heavily trafficked central area to the quieter port district where our modern 10-story glass fronted hotel stood. The interior was art filled and cool. We relied on Only in Naples, a 107-page book of favorite places at our hotel, and staff recommendations to plan our discovery of the city. An hour after we stepped off the train we had settled comfortably in our hotel suite and gone for a two-hour walk near the hotel and on Via Francesco Caracciolo, a busy water hugging road where many of the tourist hotels were located. The sky was a perfect Mediterranean blue although outdoors and by the sea it was chilly and breezy. On our way back we stopped at the Gran Caffe Gambrinus in the San Giuseppe area of the city center where we had Neapolitan snacks and espresso.

Cafe Gambrinus

Cafe Gambrinus in Naples

That night we went to Pizzeria Sorbillo (Via dei Tribunali, 32, 80138 Naples, Italy, telephone +39 081 446643, in Italian‎ www.accademiadellapizza.it/), where we had the most delicious pizza we have ever tasted in a two-story pizza shop in the old town. We arrived at the third generation restaurant founded by Gino Sorbillo in 1935 in the early evening to find it was half full. We sampled three pizzas which we washed down with beer. By the time we finished dinner the restaurant was full and there was a line of people on the street in front of the entrance waiting to be seated. Our host, who lives in Naples, explained it was like that every day. With our bellies full and a smile on our faces we walked in his amiable company back to our port fronting accommodations.

Pizzeria Sorbillo

Pizzeria Sorbillo

The following afternoon we went walking again. This time we found Gay-Odin Fabrica di Cioccolato (Via Toledo 427, Naples, Italy, telephone +39 081 551 3491, in Italian www.gay-odin.it) described in our book as the city’s premier chocolate makers. We stopped at a shop near the big shopping center, one of nine Gay-Odin stores in Naples and one each in Rome and Milan. The artisan chocolate makers sold a variety of the hand made chocolates in individual pieces and varying package sizes. Although the bite size morsels drew my eye it was rather hot that afternoon and we were concerned the chocolate would not hold out very long. We purchased a small Foresta made with milk chocolate with the intention of returning to buy more if we liked them. As it turns out we did like it and it quickly disappeared. Unfortunately, we never had a chance to return. Next time…

City streets in the Naples, Italy

The streets of Naples were vibrant with shoppers and street vendors

The following afternoon, Gaia Montuoro, public relations and events manager at our hotel, invited us to see her hometown. In her company we visited more of the old town. We descended below ground level to see ancient ruins dating to Roman and Greek times at the Complesso San Lorenzo Maggiore. The archeological site that was discovered beneath the church, convent and cloister by the same name is a street three meters wide by 60 meters long surrounded by an ancient Roman market. Under the Roman ruins history lovers discovered older Greek remains. In places we could see the colored tiny tiles which, Gaia explained, likely represented wealthy residences. It was one of our favorite stops. More information, in Italian, at www.sanlorenzomaggiorenapoli.it/

Ancient ruins under the city of Naples

Ancient ruins underground in Naples

On our way to the Greco-Roman ruins we stopped in Ferrigno (Via San Gregorio Armeno 55, www.arteferrigno), the shop of an artisan nativity figurine maker before we were caught in an afternoon shower that sent us running in search of an umbrella and shelter. Giuseppe and Marco Ferrigno carry on a tradition that has been going on for nearly 200 years. They and their employees make some 500 rather elaborate terracotta, wood and silk nativity scene figurines. With the owner’s permission (spring is not a popular time for nativity figure purchases so the interior was dark) we visited the two-story shop where hundreds of figurines up to 40 centimeters tall were on display.

Handmade Nativity figurines

Lifelike Nativity figurines

After we exited the San Lorenzo Maggiore ruins we stopped at the alchemist chapel or Cappella Sansevero (Via Francesco De Sanctis 19/21, 80134, Naples, Italy, telephone +39 081 5518470, info@museosansevero.it). The small space was crowded, perhaps especially so because of the rain outdoors. It housed religious art including two sculptures that stood out, The Veiled Christ by Giuseppe Sanmartino and The Veiled Truth. It was the basement that had drawn a crowd requiring us to wait for them to conclude their visit. They were observing the two anatomical exhibits of the skeletons and circulatory system of a man and a pregnant woman, Anatomical Machines, thought to have been the result of treatments on live humans; it appears scientific analysis indicates the specimens were made with iron wire, silk and wax. More information, in English, at www.museosansevero.it/index_ing.html

We then stopped at the working study and art gallery of one of Naples’ sons, Lello Esposito, a friendly artist known for his distinctive Neapolitan themed work. We were invited in to browse. As we walked through his art gallery (Palazzo Sansevero Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, 80134, Naples, Italy, lelloesposito.com, info@lelloesposito.com) we saw large distinctive and bold sculptures. Esposito, who had exhibited his art internationally and lived in New York for several months, welcomed us in Italian and shared his hope to one day prepare a United States themed exhibit.

Lello Esposito

Lello Esposito with one of his artistic creations

That evening after we recovered from our extended walks we stopped at Zero Sushi Bar, a sushi bar with a Japanese chef, on the ground floor of our hotel. The few bites we had were yummy and left me craving more sushi until a few minutes later we made our way to Il Comandante for a surprisingly delicious tasting menu.

Every outing and every meal we had in Naples was surprisingly satisfying. Starting with our comfort oriented luxury suite with a view at the Romeo Hotel and the staff’s warm welcome and guidance our visit to Naples was a great success. We look forward to a return visit.

Intimate luxury hotel redefined medieval romance of Bruges for me

Article and photos by Josette King

The Grote Markt is a favorite gathering spot with tourists

Bruges is unique; a city where time stood still at the height of its grandeur, half a millennium ago. Today, with most of its medieval architecture intact and its 430 hectare (1.6 square mile) historic center, it is one of Europe’s most picturesque cities; one that draws an estimated two million visitors a year, many of whom come for the day. European high-speed trains have put Bruges within an easy three-hours’ reach of Paris, Amsterdam, London, and the western part of Germany, allowing sightseers a quick look on their way from one capital city to the next.

These daytime tourists tend to congregate around the Grote Markt (Market Square), the grandest square and commercial heart of medieval Bruges since the thirteenth century, dominated by its 272 foot (83 meter) belfry, and the Burg (Town Square) that was, and remains, its administrative core. The cobbled streets surrounding the two squares are conveniently lined with shops brimming with the chocolate and lace for which the city is famous, ensuring that visitors do not have to stray far afield to make the most of their excursion.

Gothic mansions in the morning sun

A medieval home mirrored in an ancient canal

The Beguinage is a serene retreat at the edge of the city

But a few minutes’ walk away in any direction, the true romance of Bruges unfolds. It becomes an uncrowded, magical medieval place where time references fade away. That is the Bruges which has drawn me back several times over the decades, to leisurely wander in a world unchanged for centuries. Regal swans glide by canal-side homes and humpbacked stone bridges lead into mazes of narrow streets opening onto squares bordered by stately Gothic mansions, or culs-de-sac surrounded with whitewashed almshouses. There are always surprises, previously overlooked gems to be discovered.

The Romantik Pand Hotel was a welcoming haven of luxury

The library at the Romantik Pand Hotel

My suite overlooked the medieval skyline

On my recent visit one such jewel was the Romantik Pand Hotel, an early eighteenth century carriage house on a tiny tree-shaded square in the heart of the historic center. Owned and managed by the Vanhaecke family, the property had been lovingly transformed into a luxury boutique hotel. Personally decorated by Mrs. Chris Vanhaeke, an enthusiastic antiques collector, with superb pieces from her collection, it had the authentic feel of a gracious home from a bygone era (with the welcome addition of a whirlpool bath and WiFi Internet access in my suite).

The pleasure of my visit was further enhanced by the genuinely thoughtful hospitality of the management and staff, and the sense that no detail had been overlooked to ensure that I would feel truly at home during my visit with them. In fact, as I look back on my stay at the Romantik Pand Hotel, I suspect it may have altered the way I will think of future visits to Bruges. From now on, it will probably start with a yearning to return to the Pand, with the added bonus that it sits in the heart of one of the most romantic cities in Europe. Click here to read more about my visit to Bruges and my stay at the Romantik Pand Hotel.