Luxury Travel Review

Montreal museum showcases Cirque costumes
By Andrea de Gosztonyi
Watermarked photos by Andrea de Gosztonyi (photos without watermark courtesy of McCord Museum)
Cirque costumes on display at the McCord Museum
The Dream Weavers Costumes by the Cirque du Soleil is an exhibition of costumes, props and video clips of some of the key outfits that have been created over the past 25 years by the talented craftspeople that make the stunning outfits worn by the Cirque performers at the McCord Museum Montreal Quebec, Canada May 26 to October 11, 2010. Through this exhibition I marveled at the brilliant colors and the wide varieties of fabrics used in the confection of such works of art. These costumes are more than mere outfits, they actually represent visually the creative spirit of the Cirque du Soleil. Located within walking distance from the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts (MMFA) in Montreal, Canada (about a 10 minute walk east along Sherbrooke Street) this costume exhibition is a fine complement to the Inspiria exhibition at the MMFA.
McCord Museum features Cirque costume show until October
The exhibition is on the upper level of the McCord Museum and is located in one large room that is visually divided by swirling screens into three distinct areas. I remind my friend that on entering the first area they should look on the wall for a large hook with cards suspended on a metallic ring. I passed right by it, looking for indications beneath the objects of which there were none. A smiling museum guide indicated the cards to me and suggested that I might appreciate referring to the cards for information. These numbered cards (about the size of a large playing card) are in sequence with the number of the items on display. Each card explains the costume, or item, and places it in context with the show. The guide retrieved these cards when I left the first area and showed me where to find the second set of cards for the next area. No photographs were allowed in this exhibition.
Paintings from Cirque decorated the exhibit
A selection of 25 costumes from Cirque shows created between 1984 and 2009 was on display. There were also 30 different costume props, masks, shoes, hats and wigs that could be seen up close. At the end of this exhibition there was a large flat screen TV with a touch sensitive screen. By touching an icon located on the screen, I could access over 50 sound bites and video segments pertaining to the various shows including some excerpts of interviews with costume designers and craftspeople.
North American Indian display at the McCord Museum
I found it very interesting to hear about the difficulty of creating costumes for circus performers. Some of the creations were actually conceived in collaboration with the artists. In fact, the overall impression that I got from viewing these clips is that much of what is done in the Cirque du Soleil appears to be in collaboration. Artists, directors, craftsmen and choreographers toss ideas and concepts around before settling on a given creation. Some of the clips were of the costumes on display as seen during the show.
Exhibits from the Notman collection were also on display
It was possible to see this small exhibition in less than an hour. It was certainly worthwhile to visit the rest of this museum, as the McCord, although small in size, is one of the most important museums in Canada. The McCord is dedicated to the preservation, study, diffusion and appreciation of Canadian history. It is home to one of the largest historical collections in North America and is affiliated with McGill University.
Cirque Costume
Only a fraction of the collection is on display permanently and another area of the museum is devoted to rotating thematic exhibitions from their impressive archival collection. When we visited, an exhibition on the Irish immigration to Quebec was on display. Also, the permanent exhibition, Simply Montreal, gave us an interesting background history of the city of Montreal through archival photographs from the Notman collection as well as a selection of objects and artefacts, clothing, toys and sports equipment from the past. McCord Museum, 690 Sherbrooke Street West, Montreal Quebec Canada H3A 1E9 (Handicap access through the entrance located at 2175, Victoria Street on the west side of the building), Telephone +1 514-398-7100, info@mccord.mcgill.ca, www.mccord-museum.qc.ca
Charming hotel made our stay memorable in Naples, Italy
By Elena del Valle, photos by Gary Cox
Even before we arrived we were intrigued. We had heard much about Naples, Italy and were curious to discover a little of the famed city during a two-night stop en route to Ischia, a nearby spa oriented island. The hotel we were staying at also seemed interesting. The newest luxury hotel in the city designed by a Japanese architectural team and named Romeo made us wonder what our stay there would be like. The hotel won our hearts and our stay in Naples turned out to be one of the most fun during our two week sojourn in Italy.
Modern decor in the suite at the Romeo Hotel
We took advantage of the hotel’s port fronting location within walking distance of the old town and the tourist area to explore Naples on foot and in apparent reciprocity the city shared some of its many charms with us. Religion, Catholicism to be precise, is a big part of Naples and signs of it permeate the city. Food and eating also seem to play a big role in Neapolitan lives. We did what we could to discover a bit of the southern city’s foodie finds including some marvelous pizza. Many of our discoveries were facilitated by recommendations and guidance including a book in our suite and in person advice from the hotel staff.
Shops in Naples featuring locally crafted goods
We liked the art filled common areas and the modern features of the hotel (although they took getting used to) like the elevator which required us to select a floor before boarding. Our Japanese influenced corner suite (Suite 702) with a view was pretty and functional, our favorite that trip. The staff were very friendly and helpful beyond our expectations. Cocktails and sushi bites followed by dinner at Il Comandante were a wonderful foodie surprise. Click here to read about our stay at the Hotel Romeo.
Samurai armor outside the Sushi Bar at the Romeo Hotel
Rome restaurant offered satisfying seafood, welcoming service minutes from Via Veneto
By Elena del Valle, photos by Gary Cox
Ristoranti da Vincenzo
Finding a good meal in Rome, Italy proved to be a greater challenge than we had anticipated. One evening, after exploring and discarding a number of options including two well known gourmet venues, we called Ristoranti da Vincenzo, a restaurant that had been recommended by my travel agency among others. It was within walking distance from Regina Baglioni Rome, our Via Veneto hotel. Because we had been walking all day and needed a break from walking we took a taxi. A few minutes later we were comfortably seated indoors (there was an appealing outdoor area but it was chilly and we preferred to be far from smokers). It was a weekend night and soon the place was packed. A combination of tourists, seated near us, and locals, seated upstairs, filled the restaurant which was larger than we first realized.
Smoked swordfish with roquette
The two-story restaurant was at the end of a quiet one way street. It had an urban setting with a street view and simple decor. What we liked most was that the staff were friendly and spoke English, and most importantly the food was surprisingly, and unpretentiously, good. We started with a shared Smoked swordfish with roquette followed by Linguine with lobster in tomato sauce. For mains my dining companion had a sea bass and I ordered a mixed grilled. At the server’s suggestion we ordered artichoke sides to accompany our main courses but there was plenty to eat in the main dishes and we were unable to do justice to the sides. We wrapped up the meal with berries and ice cream for my dining companion and lemon and vodka sorbet for me. Everything from beginning to end was fresh tasting and well prepared.
Mixed seafood grill
We went back for lunch a couple of days later. It was a quiet midweek day allowing us to chat a little with the servers from the weekend. We were pleased to discover the staff remembered us and the food was just as good. We even met Vincenzo, the restaurant’s owner and namesake. Ristoranti da Vincenzo (Castelfidardo, 6, Rome, in English www.ristorantidiroma.com/davincenzo/homeeng.htm.
Vincenzo
Dinner at Canova, a Venice hotel restaurant
By Elena del Valle, photos by Gary Cox
The dining room in Canova restaurant
It was our last night in Venice and it was raining. Again. For three days, in between showers and intermittent sunshine, we had walked mercilessly through the city. As much as we loved the pedestrian benefits we longed to enjoy a quiet dinner that didn’t require an outing or getting wet. Fortunately, our hotel had a ground level restaurant. Ristorante Canova, named for Venetian sculptor Antonio Canova, was just what we wanted. It had contemporary decor, wood floors and wood and gold colored walls, Italian porcelain dinnerware, silver cutlery and helpful staff.
Shrimp with olive oil and artichokes
We began with a prosecco aperitif and a pre-appetizer morsel. While we pondered dinner options we observed the L shaped dining room. A simple orchid in a square vase adorned our table set against the wall in the back of the room. It was a perfect location to savor our quiet meal, see the rain fall through the nearby window and watch guests at the handful of nearby tables that shared the restaurant with us that night. From the Baglioni Caffe across the other side of the entrance we could hear the pleasant sounds of live music by Stefano. Three types of warm bread and break sticks and two types of French butter (lightly salted and unsalted) kept us entertained.
Spaghetti with clams in a light tomato sauce
We shared local shrimp over artichokes, olive oil and lemon. My dinner partner tried the Ravioli with spinach and ricotta and I had Spaghetti with clams in a light tomato sauce. For mains I had Mixed grilled seafood of scampi, monkfish, sea bass and scallops and he ordered Sea bass with potatoes. Both mains were satisfying. To wrap up our meal we had strawberry and green apple sorbet. Click here to read about our stay at the Luna Baglioni where Ristorante Canova is located.
Sorbet dessert at Canova
A cooking demonstration at home with Mara Martin, chef, Osteria da Fiore in Venice, Italy
By Elena del Valle, photos by Gary Cox
The fish market in Venice
We easily made our way on foot from our hotel near San Marco Square on the southern side of Venice to our meeting point, a quiet piazza where we easily found Damiano Martin, the son of the owners of Osteria da Fiore and our guide on a brief culinary stride through the streets of Venice, Italy. As we quickly walked to the fish market Damiano talked about some of the old and faded signs for bakery, fish shop, meat shop and so forth on the buildings of the city. One narrow street followed another and eventually we reached the covered market where the citizens of Venice bought their fish.
Soft shell crabs fresh from the ocean
It was from those same vendors, Damiano explained, that Mara Martin, his mother, the chef and part owner of Osteria da Fiore restaurant, purchased seafood for the restaurant every day. She and other chefs in the city would be in contact with the fishermen very early in the morning to buy the freshest and best catch. What remained was sold retail in the fish market. What was amazing was the lack of fish smell in spite of the sunny morning and plentiful seafood in the stalls.
Next to the fish market there were produce vendors selling all kinds of fruits and vegetables from near and far. It was fun to watch the colorful display and ample selection as we walked by. As we turned, Damiano stopped to show us a corner vendor who sold the best (and priciest) produce in town. He also carried specialty and hard to get items. Before we knew it it was time to meet the chef.
Fruit and vegetable stalls in Venice market
Mara Martin is one of those people that is easy to like. She has a ready smile and radiates Italian charm. As soon as we arrived at her home, a cozy and immaculate penthouse apartment in an old Venetian building (a former noble home on the Grand Canal), she handed each of us an apron and showed us around. Our favorite place was an open terrace reached by crossing through her kitchen with a striking view over the rooftops of Venice. From there we could see forever or at least a good part of the world famed town.
Everything was ready and time was short so after a quick drink of water she began her cooking demonstration. The plan was for her to show us and for us to try to prepare the dishes with her help. Instead we watched with admiration as she whizzed through the meal preparation, explaining what she was doing in Italian while Damiano translated into English. In between her explanations and demonstrations we peppered her with questions and enjoyed the moment. It’s not everyday that a well known chef makes you a private lunch!
Sweet and sour bream Marco Polo
That day in early May, Mara prepared Sweet and sour bream Marco Polo (with leeks, ginger, raisins, citrus juice and pine nuts), Venetian black squid risotto made with Aquarelle Rice from Piedmont, Tempura fried softshell crabs and sardines (a favorite) served with with arugula and plain salad with citrus slices and Ratafia coffee dessert, a coffee and sugar syrup sorbet. The secret to the tempura batter, she explained with a twinkle in her eye, was her personal blend of sparkling water, sparkling wine, and flour. Her tempura batter was exceptional.
Mara making those exceptional tempura crabs
At the conclusion of her cooking demonstration, the four of us sat down on stools in the small kitchen and enjoyed a savory and joyful meal, the fruits of several hours of her labor the previous day and that morning. She accompanied the four courses with a bottle of 2008 Frescobaldi white wine, home made crunchy and tasty bread (a favorite) and grissini (bread sticks). After the dessert Mara served bite sized home made Tuscan almond biscotti and almond flour nuggets (a favorite). Kudos to Chef Mara Martin, for a fun cooking demonstration and a beautifully prepared northern Italian meal!
The Osteria da Fiore 214-page cookbook, in English
The recipes for our meal were published, along with a host of others in a 214-page hardcover cookbook available in English and Italian for cooking course students and at the restaurant. The book was divided into four main sections: Antipasti, Primi Piatti, Secondi Piatti and Dolci (Italian for appetizers, first courses, second courses and desserts). The Sweet and sour sea bream Marco Polo recipe was on page 57; the one for Venetian black squid risotto appeared on page 107; a recipe similar to her Tempura fried softshell crabs and sardines appeared on page 157 and instructions for the Turkish Style Espresso Sorbet appear on page 183 which seems very much like the dessert she made at lunch.
The following day we visited Mara at work where we sampled a tasting menu of her choosing. Click here to read about our lunch at Osteria da Fiore.
Regina Isabella, a seaside hotel and spa in Ischia, Italy
Photos by Gary Cox
The distinctive rock Fungo is just offshore of Lacco Ameno
The ferry from Naples to Ischia
Earlier this year, one of our teams visited the island of Ischia near Naples best known for its thermal springs and spa facilities. While in Ischia, our team stayed at the well known Albergo della Regina Isabella in the tiny town of Lacco Ameno on the island’s northern coast. The seaside hotel had a large health spa and in house dining options including Ristorante Indaco, a gourmet restaurant (see A surprisingly delicious dinner at L’Albergo della Regina Isabella). Click here to read about their stay at Albergo della Regina Isabella and their spa treatments at Terme Della Regina Isabella, the hotel spa.
The Regina Isabella sits right on the water in Ischia
Chef Pasquale Padamaro, a native of Ischia