Luxury Travel Review
Tuscan spa was my playground of bliss
By Laura Scheiber
Photos by Mathew Harris
A sign for Adler Thermae Spa & Relax Resort Tuscany
When I arrived at the spa reception desk on the ground floor of the Adler Spa in the town of Bagno Vignoni in Italy, the manager, Minnie Romano, who had spoken with me the week before on the phone, warmly welcomed me to the spa. She offered me a seat in the waiting area where I enjoyed the views through large glass windows of the hotel’s thermal pool with indoor and outdoor sections, and the breathtaking Tuscan countryside serving as the backdrop.
Veronica Maione, a gifted esthetician
My first treatment, the Brunello Ritual, began when my therapist, Veronica Maione, escorted me to a dark room with a calming ambiance in the treatment area of the spa. After giving me privacy so I could remove my clothes and slip into my robe, Veronica reentered the room and offered me a wet towel doused in scents of lemon, orange and verbena to wash my face and hands. She then gently rubbed essential oils in the middle of my forehead and the palms of my hands while wishing me, in a soothing voice, well being and harmony. This prelude to my treatment took place in the entryway of the room, which I later found out was an intentional ritual to help guests disconnect from the outside world and focus their attention on their treatment.
The waterbeds in the relaxation room
The ritual was surprisingly effective. I immediately felt more relaxed and more attentive to the unique Tuscan spa treatment that I was about to experience. What ensued was a 45-minute relaxation massage with Tuscan red grape seed oil, followed by a 12-minute soak in a tub filled with bubbling warm water and a pitcher’s worth of Brunello wine to enhance blood circulation, followed by 15 minutes of relaxing on a waterbed while nibbling on a plate of four distinct pecorino cheeses and sipping a glass of Brunello wine. Brunello wine, I had learned during a prior wine tour, was considered one of Italy’s most prestigious wines and could only be found in the neighboring town of Montalcino. The overall effect that the Brunello Ritual treatment had on me was a mentally and physically relaxed state, juxtaposed with a feeling of increased blood circulation, as if I had just come back from a long jog.
A sign pointed to Bagno Vignoni, where the thermal spa waters originate
View onto Travertin Lake from my treatment room
The next day I enjoyed the Poppea Massage, a 50-minute relaxation massage in which the therapist used a deliciously scented cream made from locally produced honey and sheep’s milk, immediately followed by the Excellence Anti-aging Facial. While I enjoyed all three treatments, I was most impressed with the Excellence Anti-aging Facial. When I returned to my guestroom, my husband immediately commented on how glowing my complexion looked and questioned if I had received additional beauty treatments. For the rest of the evening he complemented me on how radiant my skin looked. The next day, I could not resist buying the Adler Spa Fitomelatonina Crema Rivitalizzante, a cream with a high concentration of melatonin, which was recommended to me by the spa staff to compliment the effects of the facial treatment.
Olivae, Finnish Sauna on the Travertin Lake
On our third day at Adler Thermae Spa and Relax Resort Tuscany (see Three days at rejuvenating Tuscan spa resort), my husband and I had a delightful afternoon, taking advantage of the sauna and steam rooms surrounding the thermal water lake that I had seen from the entryway of the hotel. We spent 15 minutes in a humidity room followed by a rest on an individual waterbed in the relaxation area before moving onto the next humidity room. By sunset, I felt like I had reached a new state of relaxation that I don’t ever remember experiencing before spending time at Adler Spa.
A visit to two Burgundy villages
Article and photos by Elena del Valle
Saint Pere sous Vezelay
While I was in Burgundy I had a chance to see the well known hilltop town of Vezelay and nearby the village of Saint Pere sous Vezelay. My local guide explained that Vezelay was a popular tourist town. We were fortunate. It was only raining lightly that day. Because of the constant rain in the past few days streets, shops and attractions were empty or near empty, allowing us to enjoy the town at our leisure.
The Vezelay Basilica
In Vezelay, we parked the car in the designated metered parking area and walked up a narrow street to the church and lookout area a the top. On our way, we stopped at the Musée Zervos Maison Romain Rolland, a restored home and exhibit space for the work of Christian Zervos, a publisher and art critic, and Romain Rolland, a political writer. The museum had been recommended by one of the owners of the hotel where I was staying. As we continued we glimpsed the exterior of city hall and browsed at several shop windows along the way.
A restored building in Vezelay
By the time we reached the top fortunately there was a break in the rain. We were the only ones at the viewpoint. The view of the valley and the village of Saint Pere was memorable. From there we visited the adjacent Basilica of Vezelay.
There were temptations along the way
While in town, we made time for tea and a pastry at a cafe and shop that sold Asian artifacts and offered guest accommodations; we stopped at a wine and regional products shop and at Atelier Marie Noelle, a small shop selling locally manufactured silk and wool products (69 rue Saint Pierre, 89450 Vezelay, +33 03 86 33 26 02).
The facade of Atelier Marie-Noelle
The ceramic shop owner showed us around her exhibit space
In Saint Pere sous Vezelay, we walked along the streets near our hotel, Domaine de L’Espérance Marc Meneau (see Boutique Burgundy hotel offered elegant accommodations, gourmet meals, area tours). Along our way we saw a bakery and the outside of the village church. At Poterie de Saint Pere (2, ruelle de l’eglise, 89450, St.-Pere-sous Vezelay, +33 03 86 33 35 07, www.poterie-st-pere.com), a ceramic atelier and showroom near the church, we met the owner Sylvie Wlotkowski who kindly showed us her handmade functional pottery and ikebana work. We had hopes of visiting the town’s wood workshop, said to be extraordinary, but a friendly neighbor informed us the owner was out of town.
Behind the scenes at gourmet Burgundy restaurant
Article and photos by Elena del Valle
Marc Meneau (third from the left) and his chefs
While I was at Domaine de L’Espérance Marc Meneau in the village of Saint Pere sous Vezelay in Burgundy, France I had a chance to visit the kitchen and see two chefs, including Marc Meneau, the executive chef and owner, at work one morning. I had dined at the restaurant (see Garden side dining at famed Burgundy restaurant) during my stay at the hotel (see Boutique Burgundy hotel offered elegant accommodations, gourmet meals, area tours) and was intrigued to watch the kitchen staff in action. I was the sole visitor to take advantage of the restaurant cooking demonstrations that day. It had been raining almost incessantly since I arrived in France and I imagined the quiet ambiance at the hotel would disappear once the skies cleared.
Inside the insulated boxes was a treasure trove of seafood
Shortly after I arrived in the kitchen the seafood delivery truck staff began unloading their precious coastal cargo and the chef asked if I was interested in watching them process their order. I would be delighted to observe, I responded, and we descended a few stairs to the back of the restaurant, making our way toward a stack of Styrofoam containers that had just been delivered.
The ingredients for that morning’s dish
Almost at the same time a handful of diligent staff members began counting, sorting and storing the chilled seafood. Within minutes everything was organized and the truck had departed. The chef selected three langoustines from the just arrived boxes for that morning’s demonstration which I had the pleasure to observe and taste hot just off the stove.
From delivery to ready in minutes
Just as I finished tasting the langoustine dish, standing in a corner of the kitchen, Chef Meneau arrived. A tall imposing figure with seemingly infinite amounts of energy he walked at a brisk pace instructing staff as he moved from one side or the other of the brightly lit kitchen like a whirling dervish. One moment we were in the kitchen and the next we were walking in the chilly outdoors, visiting his organic garden. Most of the fruits, herbs and vegetables served in the restaurants, he explained, were grown on the property. As we walked we met one of the gardeners tending to the budding greens. That explained the tender, crispy and flavorful produce I had tasted at meal times.
Marc Meneau demonstrates the preparation of his popular Huites en gelée d’eau de mer oyster dish
Moments later, we were back in the warm kitchen and the chef invited me to watch him prepare his well known oysters in sea water dish. The secret, he said as he began, is never to wash the oysters but instead allow them to keep their natural ocean flavor. The ingredients were fresh oysters and their washed, brushed shells; gelatin sheets, shallots, white wine, cream, lemon juice, chopped watercress leaves, toast and Camembert cheese.
Garden side dining at famed Burgundy restaurant
Article and photos by Elena del Valle
The view from our table
My visit to Burgundy earlier this year began with a brief stay at Domaine de L’Espérance Marc Meneau in the village of Saint Pere sous Vézelay (see Boutique Burgundy hotel offered elegant accommodations, gourmet meals, area tours). While there I dined at the owner’s namesake gourmet restaurant twice and met the famous chef and Francoise, his wife, who together developed the hotel and restaurant concept. The chef and Pierre, his son, about to open his own restaurant in Paris, had just returned from an international culinary event in the United States.
Senior staff at L’Esperance Marc Meneau
I loved the setting. The restaurant occupied the right rear corner of the hotel’s main building, facing the Serge Gainsbourg Garden named for a friend of the chef’s. In the chill of early spring glass walls allowed diners to enjoy the comfort of indoor dining with the views and ambiance of a garden side meal.
Green asparagus appetizer
Pretty tables with elegant dinnerware, silverware and glassware and attentive staff enhanced the experience. Dinner at L’Esperance Marc Meneau was well prepared, artfully presented, and served with great care. Some of the dishes, such as the John Dory, were prepared at the dinner table or table side, lending the meal a festive flare.
Fillet of John Dory on a hot stone from “St. Pere” prepared at the table
Dinner began with pre-appetizer bites of Couteaux farcis avec poulpes, bulots et crevettes, Guimauve concombre and tararna d’oursin. The meal proper started with Asperge Verte de Petuis a la Goret, a green asparagus appetizer; followed by fish cooked at the table atop a hot river stone from the nearby Saint Pere River, Le fillet de St.-Pierre Cuit sur “la pierre chaude de St. Pere.” A 2009 comté and 2010 Gruyere cheese course from Mr. Antony served with a small mixed salad was next.
Scallop appetizers at L’Esperance
A small salad with the cheese course
To accompany the food we were served 2010 Vezelay “les vignes blanches” Marc Meneau and 2008 Chablis Bougros Domaine Brocard. For dessert I sampled La Fraise Marie-Antoinette, a dish the chef created for a Sofia Coppola film about the famous queen. Petit fours completed the meal: Meringe praliné, Pate de fruit poire, Macaron chocolate, Financier orange et cerise confite, tartellette a la pomme and tuille.
The main course was prepared table side and assembled at the table
The following night, I had lightly cooked scallops for the starter and for mains a sea and land combination with potatoes and sweet onions. An Epoisses cheese was next followed by a mille-feuille (Napoleon pastry) dessert.
Petit fours at the end of the meal
Both meals at the restaurant were outstanding. L’Esperance Marc Meneau Grand-rue, Saint Père sous Vézelay, 89450, France, +33 (0) 3 86 33 39 10, fax +33 (0) 3 86 33 26 15, www.marc-meneau-esperance.com, reservation@marc-meneau.com
Three days at rejuvenating Tuscan spa resort
By Laura Scheiber
Photos by Matthew Harris
The Tuscan countryside surrounding Adler Thermae
As if the idyllic Tuscan countryside was not enough reason for my husband and I to visit the Val d’Orcia region of Italy, we could not wait to enjoy the natural thermal waters in the town of Bagno Vignoni, recognized for their healing benefits since Etruscan and Roman times. With thermal waters in mind we spent three wonderful days at Adler Thermae Spa & Relax Resort in Tuscany, Italy. With access to the local thermal springs, and couched between Pienza, a Tuscan medieval town specializing in pecorino cheeses, and the town of Montalcino, home of Brunello wine, the resort was ideally located to take advantage of many Tuscan delights.
For us, the highlights of Adler Thermae Spa & Relax Resort were the views of the breathtaking scenery, the consistently friendly service, and the endless opportunities to relax and rejuvenate. By the time we left, we felt mentally and physically recharged. Promising ourselves that we would return to this family-friendly haven, we have since recommended the resort to several friends and family members in search of a restorative getaway.
Brunello wine from Montalcino
Arriving on a sunny hot day in June after an hour’s drive from Siena, we checked in at the front desk, where Federika, one of the friendly receptionists, gave us an overview and map of the facilities, keys to our room and information on how to pick up our spa towels, size appropriate robes, flip flops, and a beach bag to be used throughout our stay.
The bellman escorted us to room 328, a 35 square meter room facing the pool area, with excellent views of the Tuscan countryside. The air-conditioned room was comfortable and pleasant. Had there not been so many wonderful facilities to explore, we happily would have kicked our feet up and relaxed in the sun-filled room, which had two twin-sized beds pushed together to make an oversized bed, and a small sitting area with a couch, tea table, arm chair, desk and chair.
We enjoyed complimentary cocktails on the outdoor patio
After settling in, we went to the bar area for a complimentary welcome drink. Taking in the unobstructed views on the outdoor patio, I drank a refreshing fruit juice while my husband enjoyed a mixed drink made of Prosecco and Martini rosé. Since we had been steadily eating our way through Italy for the previous four days, I decided to take advantage of the indoor gym before dinner. Just like our room and the bar lounge, the most delightful feature of the well-equipped indoor gym was the fantastic view of the Tuscan countryside.
A view of Pienza while riding bikes through the countryside
The next day we were anxious to explore the landscape, so we reserved some of the complimentary mountain bikes the hotel offered. The receptionist gave us safety helmets and a map of several nearby bike routes. Within minutes we were on a secluded trail, surrounded by open fields of wheat and cypress trees swaying in the breeze, all beneath a perfectly blue sky. After conquering a few small hills, we were rewarded with a beautiful view of Pienza, atop a hillside 17 kilometers from Adler Thermae. Though we wanted to cycle to the peak we conceded to the 95 Fahrenheit degree heat and headed back to the resort for some pool time.
The outdoor spa area at Adler Thermae
After napping on the white loungers next to the 25-meter sports pool, I decided to take a dip in the outdoor thermal pool, sourced from one of the local thermal springs. I had read that the minerals had positive health benefits for joints and bones so I slipped into the 98.6 degree Fahrenheit water and made my way over to one of the areas where a row of thick iron rods served as a lounging seat. Water shot out of the side walls in twenty minute intervals, providing a massage of sorts. I laid my head back to take in the Tuscan sun and slipped into a wonderful state of relaxation.
On our last day at Adler Thermae, we wanted to take full advantage of the resort’s many facilities. I began with some laps in the outdoor 25-meter sports pool at a refreshing 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Although tempted by the 30-minute hydro bike class (one of six daily exercise classes offered by the resort during our stay), I opted for the outdoor treadmills just a few steps away from the pool area. Even after three days at the resort, I still marveled at the beautiful scenery and understood why the Val D’Orcia region of Tuscany was made a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Outdoor treadmills at Adler Thermae
After working out, my husband and I visited the sauna and steam rooms in the garden area of the spa. Located in a serene outdoor space of the resort, several humidity rooms surrounded an attractive thermal water pool. We visited the Olivae, a Finnish sauna, made from terracotta and olive trees, and the Grotta de Filosofo, a Turkish steam room with refreshing scents inside a hillside cave. Neither bathing suits nor bathrobes were allowed in the facilities, but guests had the option of wrapping up in a towel if they desired. There were pegs immediately outside the rooms where we hung our swimwear and bathrobes. After an afternoon alternating between 15-minute sessions in the humidity rooms followed by a cold shower and then a lie down on one of the single waterbeds in the neighboring relaxation room, I felt as if I had reached a new dimension of harmony. While my body was relaxed, my mind felt calm yet alert.
What stole the show for us at Adler Thermae was the beauty of the surrounding countryside. The thoughtful design of the building allowed us to enjoy outstanding views virtually anywhere in the resort. We also appreciated the many exercise options. This suited me well because I like a holiday that combines some type of physical exercise interspersed with opportunities to unwind. Just as important were the friendly and professional staff, who seemed dedicated to pampering guests and ensuring a relaxing and healthy getaway. We left rested and re-energized, with plans to return in the future.
FatCat offered lightweight power insurance for travel
Article and photos by Gary Cox
The FatCat mPower PowerBar 4200
The FatCat mPower PowerBar 4200, a battery charger for small devices, packs a lot of power into a small convenient package. With a lithium polymer battery that holds about twice the power of a smart phone (4200 mAh) and special circuitry designed to protect the devices it charges, this sleek 4 ounce package can keep the movies and music playing on a long flight, or keep a phone going at that critical moment. For day to day use, we find it much handier than keeping all the various wall chargers on hand when going out with phones, iPad and MiFi unit. It is comforting to know that even if the phone gets a lot of use, or does not get charged the night before, the PowerBar is there to make up the difference. Smaller than a deck of playing cards, the PowerBar 4200 has earned a slot in our laptop and tablet bags.
The PowerBar, priced at $69.95, arrived with a partial charge I was able to top up in four to seven hours plugged into a standard USB port. According to the manufacturer, the battery is good for 500 charge/discharge cycles with recommended topping of the charge at least every three months. The smooth case feels solid and there is a charge indicator on the front that shows a light for each 25 percent of charge the device is holding. We tested a black one on domestic travel. As of this writing the PowerBar is offered in five colors adding blue, red, orange and silver to the front of the case.
The accessory tips and cable came with a cloth bag
The package included a cloth drawstring pouch to hold the selection of tips and the cables. The tips included micro USB, mini USB, male and female USB, iPhone and DC 3.5×1.3. The website indicated less frequently used tips may be available. Most devices that will work with this charger will have a USB cable supplied that can be inserted into the female USB tip. So far all our USB devices have been compatible with the FatCat and the tips that were included. Made by Infora, the FatCat was designed in Sweden and manufactured in China. The company (Infora, 44 Amity Rd, Warwick, NY 10990, +1-845-258-9027, http://www.fatcatgear.com,cs@fatcatgear.com) website lists a two year warranty.
