A day trip visit to a Cambodian lake, bird sanctuary and floating village

Article and photos by Elena del Valle

The floating village

A young boy in a tiny boat floats through the village

During a recent trip to Siem Reap, Cambodia I had an opportunity to spend time in a conservation area and bird reserve near the city. Although the conservation area we visited was only 90 minutes by car and boat from the central urban area where my hotel was it was vastly different from the hustle and bustle of the city. Spending time in an area visited by only 150 bird and conservation enthusiasts a year was special. As the word spreads about the eight conservation areas that it is possible to visit in Cambodia and tourism to the region continues to grow the number of visitors to the reserve will likely grow as well. For now, it is still a pleasure of serene lake and birding panoramas.

Most of the village floated on the water

Most of the village floated on the water

Nick Butler, the coordinator of the Sam Veasna Center for Wildlife Conservation, and Sophoan Sanh, a senior tour guide with five years of experience with the Center, escorted me on a day long Bird Reserve and Floating Village Day Trip on Tonle Sap Lake. To take advantage of the weather and avoid rain as much as possible we set out at 6 a.m. on a weekday morning. We drove from my hotel in central Siem Reap through the countryside to the shores of Tonle Sap Lake, the home of, and an important source of livelihood for, many Cambodians; where we boarded a 10 meter wood motorboat with a 110 horsepower engine, curtains (in case of rain) and an upper deck (we were quite thankful for the curtains and cover when it rained) to traverse the lake in a west southwest direction to our destination, the Prek Toal Bird Sancuary and the nearby village of Prek Toal.

Map of Cambodia

Map of Cambodia

Along the way Nick, a native of the United Kingdom, and Sophoan, a Cambodian, shared information about the lake and its importance for the local communities, the birds in the area and the environment while we munched on the goodies from the breakfast boxes they had brought along. Although there was plenty of space in the shady comfort of the boat we climbed onto the upper deck to better view the lake and the birds. On our way through the conservation area to one of the main floating villages we stopped at an observation point, a tree where Center staff spent time to monitor and protect the bird nesting areas (sometimes the fishermen were drawn to them because of the excellent fishing they offered). From the canopy of the tree we could see for miles around the lake, including approaching rain clouds. It was a beautiful sight. Although there was a seemingly infinite variety of insects that rained on us when we brushed the trees as we motored around the reserve I saw not a single mosquito and for that I was thankful.

Boats of every shape and description

Boats of many descriptions were the core of local transport

At the Prek Toal floating village we picked up a representative of the Cambodian parks and made a restroom stop (although there was a toilet on the boat it was tiny and without toilet paper) before heading to a local house for lunch. The village was a lively place with residents going about their everyday lives in their floating homes and businesses or making their way from one location to another by boat. Lunch, prepared by a village family who had received special training, was delicious.

A temple was the only building not floating in the village

A non floating temple in the floating village

After lunch, a teenage member of the family showed us around the village in a small rowboat. I particularly enjoyed the water level view we had on the boat that allowed us to see the inhabitants, their homes and businesses close up. Some came to their door to look at us with curiosity; at times children waived shyly and adults smiled when we waved back. After that we crossed the lake to reach our car for the short drive back to Siem Reap, arriving at my hotel in the late afternoon. The day trip remains one of my favorite memories of Cambodia.

Visit Simonandbaker.com for additional information about Siem Reap and my tour with the Sam Veasna Center for Wildlife Conservation.

Delicious tasting menus at Meric in Siem Reap, Cambodia

Article and photos by Elena del Valle

On a recent visit to Siem Reap, Cambodia I had the pleasure of dining at Meric, the gourmet restaurant of my stylish and centrally located hotel. Named after the highly sought-after Cambodian pepper grown in the Kampot region Meric served a seasonally-inspired Khmer menu using the produce of local farmers. Established in 2005, the 217 square meter restaurant was in the capable hands of American Chef Bryan Gardner, who had just become executive chef, and Restaurant Manager Sokthea Mao. They and their enthusiastic team of 18 produced some memorable meals.

Chef Gardner and his staff

Chef Bryan Gardner and his staff

Chef Gardner grew up in Eastport, Maine known for its seafood. After attending the University of Southern Maine, he pursued a Culinary Arts degree at the New England Culinary Institute in Vermont. In 2005, he went to the Martini House in Saint Helena, Napa Valley before working with Joseph Humphrey, chef at the Meadowood Resort (a Relais and Chateaux property). He later worked under Japanese Chef Hiro Sone at Terra, where he observed the fusion of Asian and Western cuisines. In 2007, his passion for Asian cooking drew him to South East Asia where he fell in love with Cambodia. In July 2010, after working for two years at Hotel de la Paix as sous chef he became executive chef of the hotel’s restaurant. One of his goals is to raise the profile of Khmer cuisine within Asian and international circles alongside a la carte dishes with French, American and Asian influences.

The courtyard featured swings and tables

Outside swing seating facing the courtyard

I particularly liked the restaurant’s dining swings set along a tranquil internal courtyard with a water feature. This was my favorite area of the hotel. The restaurant, said to have one of the largest collections of international wines in Siem Reap, could accommodate up to 108 guests, 64 indoors and 44 outdoors. I liked the outdoors best, especially at a table with a view of the courtyard.

Dishes featured fresh herbs and vegetables

A Cambodian breakfast dish with fresh herbs and vegetables

Although the menu changed daily depending on the produce available from the local farmers and growers, while I was at the Hotel de la Paix where the restaurant is housed, I sampled the seven-course Khmer Tasting Menu.  It was outstanding and, at $31 per person, an excellent value for money.

Dishes were stylishly presented incorporating traditional elements

One of the courses from the Meric Khmer Tasting Menu

Twice I had the tasting menu. The first time on a Monday I had Pomelo Salad with Prawn served at the same time as Chicken and Banana Bud Salad. Next there was Grilled Beef with Cucumber and Prahok Sauce served with Khmer organic white rice next to Pork Rib Sour Soup “Jungle Style.” Next there was Stir Fried Frog with Fresh Ginger served at the same time as Cat Fish and Green Curry. The final dish was a small tray of Assorted Khmer Sweets for each of us.

Dishes were served in pairs for contrast

Dishes were served in pairs for contrast

On Wednesday, I had Pomelo Salad with Crispy Pork Fritter served at the same time as Green Mango Salad with Dried Snake (both favorites). Then there was Grilled Prahok with Khmer Crudites served with Khmer organic white rice at the same time as Prawn with Water Lily Sour Soup. The final savory courses served at the same time were Stir Fried Frog with Ginger (had a definite bite) and Beef Shank Curry with Morning Glory (a favorite). For dessert there were assorted Khmer Sweets. Of the two tasting menus the first was my favorite although both were outstanding and worth a detour.

Dessert was an interpretation of a Khmer classic

Dessert was a stylized interpretation of Khmer classics

Congratulations to the team at the Meric restaurant for its noteworthy gourmet dining.  Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review for additional information about Siem Reap and the Hotel de la Paix.

Phuket, Thailand hotel offered luxury amenities, beach access

Room at Twinpalms Phuket

The bedroom in a three level suite at the Residences at Twinpalms Phuket

Tasty and attractive appetizer plate

A tasty and attractive appetizer

When one of our team members was in Phuket, Thailand recently she spent time at Twinpalms Phuket, a luxury adults oriented hotel on the west side of the popular island. She liked the ultra private and luxurious accommodations in the Residences building including a three level suite with a rooftop pool and a shared concierge.

Catch Beachclub was right on the beach

The beach

Palm Spa Reception

Palm Spa at Twinpalms Phuket

Thinking of traveling to Phuket or just curious? Visit the Thailand page of Simon & Baker Travel Review to read a dedicated property profile about Twinpalms Phuket and Palm Spa, the property’s in house spa.

Hansar Samui, a new beachfront hotel and spa in Koh Samui, Thailand

Article and photos by Elena del Valle

Hansar Samui Hotel

The Hansar Samui

After a difficult flight to the island of Koh Samui in Thailand, I exited the airport to discover it was necessary to follow what felt like a long, partly on an incline, path to the passenger pick up area. It was hot and humid and by the time I made it there I was sweating and desperate to leave the airport.

Room at the Hansar Sumai

My room at the hotel

As I pushed my luggage cart up the last part of the incline I spotted a friendly looking man with a turquoise polo short at the head of the line of people waiting for passengers. Later I learned his name, Sin Samney “Sam,” the Hansar Samui front desk manager and concierge. Sam held a sign with my name on it and a radiant smile that melted my sour mood instantly. “Pop,” the hotel driver was with him and while Sam greeted me Pop went to fetch the car from the parking lot in front of us. A moment later I was comfortably seated inside the air conditioned hotel car holding a refresher towel and drinking chilled water.

Beach View from the Hansar Sumai

The beach view from the lounge

That set the tone for my stay at the Hansar Samui. I thoroughly enjoyed my beach front handsome room with a covered balcony as well as the hotel spa, fitness center, restaurant, and saltwater infinity edge swimming pool. I will remember the hotel for the staff’s friendliness and thoughtful touches like the constant supply of mangoosteens in my room fruit bowl when they found out it was a favorite (I bought some at the village market), and amenities like the nightly home baked sweets and chocolates.

Hansar Bistro Sweets

Sweets from H-Bistro

While I was there I had an opportunity to sample the new H-Bistro Tasting Menu. The first course was perfectly cooked Seared Hokaido scallops with celeriac, cherry tomato compote and Riesling foam. Then there was a delightful Pan fried foie gras liver with rapberry yogurt and rapberry essence followed by a delicious Linguini pasta with, garlic, red chili, tiger prawn, Dutch Mussels and fresh dill. For the next course we could select one from the following three: Pan seared Arctic Char with ratatouille, eggplant and lobster foam or Slow cooked Bresse baby chicken with white asparagus, crispy guanciale and Black summer truffle sauce or Grilled Canadian Lobster with garlic butter and rocket salad. I was able to sample the chicken (a favorite) and the lobster. Although dessert was not part of the set menu we had saved room to sample Warm melted chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream and Pineapple ravioli both of which provided a satisfying completion the lovingly prepared and artfully presented meal.

H-Bistro Foie Gras

Foie gras at H-Bistro

Chicken at H-Bistro

The chicken was a favorite

From Indra Budiman the affable general manager, to Stephen Jean Dion, Hansar’s executive chef, the restaurant staff who I met the day I sampled the H-Bistro Tasting Menu; to the front desk staff, the room service staff, the ladies at the spa, the young men in the pool area and nearly every staff member I had a chance to meet I felt welcome, even when our communication was limited by language.

Hansar Chef

Hansar Chef Stephen Jean Dion

You can read more about my stay at the Hansar Samui and the Luxsa Spa in Koh Samui, Thailand at the Simon & Baker Travel Review.

The Breakers, a Florida icon

By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox

The Breakers Hotel

The Breakers Palm Beach

This family owned and family friendly resort in tony Palm Beach Island in Florida’s east coast made fans out of us. There are many reasons to like the 140-acre property such as its handsome Italian design interiors and pretty rooms, beachfront location, two 18-hole championship golf courses, ocean facing swimming pools, spacious spa, boutiques and multiple restaurants. Our favorites: the manicured look pervasive throughout the resort including uniformed staff and the high level of service, often friendly and helpful, wherever we went.

Fountain at the Breakers

There were many comfortable areas to relax and enjoy the property

We enjoyed a midweek stay just as the season was closing and although the weather did not cooperate as much as we would have liked (there was a constant lifeguard red flag during our stay) we appreciated the calm environs. We particularly enjoyed massages at the resort spa, a sunset dinner at the The Flagler Steakhouse and a molecular gastronomy tasting menu dinner at L’Escalier, the resort’s gourmet restaurant.

Elaborate cuisine at L'Escalier

Cuisine as art at L’Escalier

Another favorite was a day at Beach Bungalow 17, one of several day rental cabanas fronting the adult relaxation infinity pool and facing the beach beyond. The bungalow provided quiet space aside from the crowded pool area and the private area with a concierge made our time under the sun especially relaxing. The 150-square foot indoor area plus a segregated patio was stocked with some complimentary amenities and plenty of pool towels. For sun time the patio had three outdoor lounge chairs and an umbrella.

A pool bungalow at the Breakers

Beach Bungalow 17

Inside the open air space had a ceiling fan and a tower fan, lanai, armchair, rectangular wood table, private outdoor shower, water closet and sink, binoculars, house brand toiletries (body lotion, bathing gel, shampoo, conditioner, liquid soap), blow dryer, tissue paper, WiFi connection, LG flatscreen television with satellite connection, Zenith DVD player, fruit bowl, ice bucket and mini refrigerator stocked with house brand purified complimentary water. There were also four types sodas and snacks in our bungalow for purchase (Snickers, Skittles, Reese’s, M & M and PowerBar).

A private getaway at the Breakers pool

Our view of the pool and ocean beyond from inside the bungalow

Krissy, our concierge

Krissy, our Bungalo concierge, made sure we had everything we needed with a smile

Although the resort facilities and amenities were within easy reach it was nice to know we did not have to do anything or go anywhere if we did not care to. Even lunch was easy.

We selected Florida Fish Tacos, Turkey Club Wrap and a side order of Avocado Fries from the Ocean Grill menu in our bungalow and placed our order with Krissy, a uniformed concierge who checked on us regularly. Within minutes our food arrived. In case we were still peckish around 3:30 p.m. she brought a styrofoam plate of frozen grapes. We wrapped up our day feeling lazy and relaxed and ready for dinner at Echo, the resort’s offsite Asian eatery a short shuttle ride away in downtown Palm Beach. Click here to read about our experience at The Breakers Palm Beach, The Spa at The Breakers and L’Escalier.

Duck wraps from Echo

The duck at Echo was served with flour wraps and crisp vegetables

Charming hotel made our stay memorable in Naples, Italy

By Elena del Valle, photos by Gary Cox

Even before we arrived we were intrigued. We had heard much about Naples, Italy and were curious to discover a little of the famed city during a two-night stop en route to Ischia, a nearby spa oriented island. The hotel we were staying at also seemed interesting. The newest luxury hotel in the city designed by a Japanese architectural team and named Romeo made us wonder what our stay there would be like. The hotel won our hearts and our stay in Naples turned out to be one of the most fun during our two week sojourn in Italy.

Suite at Romeo Hotel

Modern decor in the suite at the Romeo Hotel

We took advantage of the hotel’s port fronting location within walking distance of the old town and the tourist area to explore Naples on foot and in apparent reciprocity the city shared some of its many charms with us. Religion, Catholicism to be precise, is a big part of Naples and signs of it permeate the city. Food and eating also seem to play a big role in Neapolitan lives. We did what we could to discover a bit of the southern city’s foodie finds including some marvelous pizza. Many of our discoveries were facilitated by recommendations and guidance including a book in our suite and in person advice from the hotel staff.

Shops in Naples

Shops in Naples featuring locally crafted goods

We liked the art filled common areas and the modern features of the hotel (although they took getting used to) like the elevator which required us to select a floor before boarding. Our Japanese influenced corner suite (Suite 702) with a view was pretty and functional, our favorite that trip. The staff were very friendly and helpful beyond our expectations. Cocktails and sushi bites followed by dinner at Il Comandante were a wonderful foodie surprise. Click here to read about our stay at the Hotel Romeo.

Samurai Armor by the Sushi Bar

Samurai armor outside the Sushi Bar at the Romeo Hotel