by Editor | Dec 14, 2015 | Attractions, Food and Wine, Luxury Travel, Restaurants, Wine
Article and photos by Elena del Valle
Blake Gowar at the Eagle’s Nest hilltop
During a recent stay in Constantia, a wine producing suburb of Cape Town, South Africa, I went on a 4.5 hour Private Half Day Wine Tour recommended by the owners of the Glen Avon Lodge where I was staying. At 12 noon sharp, Blake Gowar, owner of The Constantia Wine Tour (11 Midhurst Way, Constantia, Cape Town, 7806, South Africa, +27 021 794 4873, +27 082 377 5233, www.theconstantiawinetour.co.za, Blake@theconstantiawinetour.co.za), picked me up at my hotel in his company branded sports utility vehicle.
One of the historic buildings of the Klein Constantia Estate
During the short drive to Klein Constantia (Klein Constantia Estate, PO Box 375, Constantia, 7848, South Africa, +27 021 794 5188, kleinconstantia.com, info@kleinconstantia.com), the first of three wineries on the tour, we had a chance to chat as I was the only guest on the tour the chilly winter day. Blake explained his was the first and only company dedicated exclusively to half and full day tours of Constantia wineries.
Janine Dodds, our friendly host at Klein Constantia
After passing through the security gate we entered the Klein Constantia Estate. Dating to 1685 the property was built among ancient trees on the upper foothills of the Constantiaberg Mountains. It had a view across the city to False Bay. Although it was in the midst of extensive renovations the tasting room was unaffected. Janine Dodds, a well informed and friendly representative, greeted us and recommended wines for me to taste. We were the only visitors at that moment. Thanks to the quiet off season ambiance I had her undivided attention during the wine tasting. The property was best known for its chardonnay and sauvignon blanc wines. It also had the best stocked gift shop I visited on the tour. There were branded cycling shirts and a variety of foodie and wine items on sale.
The vineyards at Klein Constantia
The garden seen through a glass of rose wine at the Eagle’s Nest
A handful of people had arrived before us at the Eagle’s Nest (Old Constantia Main Road, Constantia, 7848, South Africa, +27 21 794 4095, eaglesnestwines.com, info@eaglesnestwines.com, orders@eaglesnestwines.com) where we received a warm welcome from Kaylee Morrick and Kathleen McNulty. There were still left plenty of table choices in the verdant garden. Following the staff’s recommendation I picked a spot where I tasted a rose and couple of the white wines while Blake went to swap his sports utility vehicle for a four wheel drive. Thanks to a family friendship with one of the owners of the Eagle’s Nest Blake had exclusive permission to use the property owner’s Land Rover and drive up the winery’s mountain for tours.
Although it was chilly I was drawn to the lush garden at the Eagle’s Nest
The Eagle’s Nest was in a secluded valley high up on the slopes of the historic Constantia mountain range, part of the Table Mountain area. One of the five small boutique wineries of Constantia it was home to some of the steepest gradient vineyards in the country, Blake explained. The winery was known for its dry rose, viognier and award winning shiraz. The weather worn vehicle climbed the single lane dirt road with the ease of a goat, if slightly less grace. We stopped along the way for some photos and a close up glimpse at flowers.
Flowers growing by the side of the road
By the time we reached the high point on the farm the wind had picked up and I was chilled despite my fleece and windbreaker. The panoramic views of the farm, followed by Constantia in the foreground and greater Cape Town beyond reached all the way to the ocean. The breathtaking scenery from the top made the detour worthwhile.
Bird’s eye views of Cape Town from the hilltop at the Eagle’s Nest
On our return to the Eagle’s Nest tasting room, we sat indoors near the crackling flames of the fireplace. The glass walls afforded us a view of the garden during the second half of the wine tasting. I especially enjoyed their three lovely reds.
Our third winery was Silvermist
All that wine tasting had made me hungry. By the time we arrived at Silvermist (Constantia Nek, 7806 Cape Town, South Africa, +27 21 794 7601 silvermistmountainlodge.co.za, silvermistvineyards@gmail.com, silvermisteatery@gmail.com), on the forested slopes of Table Mountain and within the Table Mountain National Park, I was ready for a late lunch and a tasting of the farm produced white. The rustic 120 acre estate that borders the Constantia Wine Route was, I was told, the only organic vineyard in Constantia. It was best known for its sauvignon blanc. Candace Louw, one of the owners, welcomed us warmly when we arrived.
The Silvermist Sauvignon Blanc
The views of Table Mountain National Park at Silvermist
We ate in the Green Vine Eatery, one of two dining venues within Silvermist, where Blake ordered the special of the day, a tasty pizza, and I had a well prepared hamburger with potato wedges. While we waited for lunch we stepped out briefly to enjoy the beautiful views of the environs and Table Mountain. Dessert of chocolate muffins was to go.
The pizza special for lunch at the Green Vine Eatery
Candace Louw, one of the owners of Silvermist
As my tour guide and I parted company, I realized how much I had enjoyed the pleasant pace of the private half day tour, the wine tastings, lunch, and Blake’s company. Although I had visited Constantia before, I had never been to any of the wineries on our tour that day. I appreciated having someone else drive all afternoon. It meant I could taste as many wines as I wanted without worrying about driving. And, I didn’t have to find the wineries with my rental car’s not always trustworthy GPS directions. Plus, it was fun to discover new estates. Blake’s selection of the wineries was spot on in terms of the setting and the wines themselves. The unique opportunity to climb to the high point of the Eagle’s Nest farm was an unexpected bonus.
by Editor | Oct 19, 2015 | Attractions, Luxury Travel
A scene from Hansel and Gretel (photo credit: Opéra National de Paris/Julien Benhamou)
The historic Palais Garnier is a work of art
We found a fun alternative to the many tried and true though often crowded monuments and museums of the City of Lights at the two Paris Opera theaters. The best known of the two theaters was the Palais Garnier on the Place de l’Opera. Limited performances and a relatively small building meant finding seats required advance planning. Once inside the ornate interior was worth the effort.
Scene from La Boheme (photo credit: Opéra National de Paris/Julien Benhamou)
The Opera Bastille is in a major traffic circle on the Right Bank
In the eastern side of the city near the famed Marais neighborhood, the Opera Bastille offered a large venue. The ample seating choices available meant the freedom to go to the opera on impulse. From a tourist perspective the Palais Garnier was our favorite. From a musical performance perspective we preferred the Opera Bastille.
by Editor | Oct 12, 2015 | Food, Luxury Travel
By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox
The front entrance to the Holy Donut
As soon as we heard about The Holy Donut (194 Park Ave and 7 Exchange Street, Portland, Maine, +1 207 874-7774, www.theholydonut.com, holydonutorders@gmail.com) from a local foodie we were intrigued. Established by co-owners Leigh Kellis and her father Allan Kellis the popular eatery in the heart of Portland, Maine made potato doughnuts from scratch.
The board with the daily specials
The busy shop we visited on Exchange Street sold a variety of donuts made the old fashioned way from hand-cut Maine ingredients and potatoes. They rotated 16 flavors daily. They included Maine Potato with Pure Vanilla Glaze, Maple, Pomegranate, Fresh Lemon (hand squeezed and lemon zest), Real Mojito (fresh mint and lime zest), Allen’s Coffee Brandy (made with a Maine liquor), and Toasted Coconut with Coconut Milk Glaze.
Our favorite donut and a hot chocolate
There was also Dark Chocolate with Pure Vanilla Glaze, Sea Salt, Cinnamon Sugar, and Toasted Coconut and Coconut Milk Glaze (our favorite from the few we sampled). There were also Sweet Potato donuts made with roasted sweet potatoes and Maine potatoes, Vegan, Gluten Free, Filled, and Bacon-Cheddar (another favorite). We can’t wait to go back to Portland to indulge in our favorites and sample new flavors.
by Editor | Sep 14, 2015 | Luxury Travel, Spas
Article and photos by Elena del Valle
One of several outdoor areas at the Four Seasons Spa
Heading to the tiny island of Nevis in the West Indies I was unsure what to expect in the way of spas. I was pleased to discover several options. I tried three facilities, the spa at the island’s largest and best known resort, a family run spa and salon in a residential area, and a small salon in the main town of Charlestown, both locally owned.
The Compassionate Touch Spa and Salon was in a residential area
Valencia Griffin, co-owner and therapist, Compassionate Touch Spa and Salon
The spotlessly clean 1,848 square foot Compassionate Touch Spa (Nisbet Estate, Saint James Parish, Nevis, +1 869 469 9748, +1 718 594 1712,wwwcompassionatetouchspa.com, tdgriff@sisterisles.kn) in a tranquil village on the north side of the island could accommodate up to five guests at a time. Because we arrived late my Nevis Therapeutic Massage was cut short, although there was time for an owner led walk through the facility before my treatment. Established in 2001, the spa had been renovated in 2007. In addition to owners David and Valencia Griffin there were three staff. Ms. Griffin trained at the Nothern Institute of Massage of the Essex School of Beauty. There was a wet treatment room, a pedicure room, three massage or facial rooms, one manicure room and a waiting area. There were lockers, robes and slippers.
Tip Toes Nail Salon was in the main town of Nevis
Calette James, owner, Tip Toes Nail Salon
I stopped in Charlestown for a massage by Calette James at the Tip Toes Nail Spa and Beauty Haven (Hunkins Plaza, Charlestown, Nevis, +869 762 4500, tiptoesnailsspa869@gmail.com), a facility near the main road. It had a reception area and a treatment room. Guests had access to a locked and clean shared restroom behind the salon.
My smoothie and a bento box with fresh fish at The Spa at Four Seasons Resort Nevis tasted as good as it looked
The Spa at Four Seasons Resort Nevis (P.O. Box 565, Pinney’s Beach, Charlestown, +869 469-1111, http://www.fourseasons.com/nevis/spa/spa_overview/, spaConcierge.nev@fourseasons.com) was located within the resort, which in turn was on Pinney’s Beach. Open to hotel guests and the public the spa was popular, though not crowded, while I was there in the low season. A staff of 23 worked at the 12,000 square foot establishment with 12 treatment rooms, six outdoor freestanding cottages and six indoor treatment rooms.
The heated jacuzzi at The Four Seasons Spa was popular
The manager at the Four Seasons Spa
During several hours of spa indulgence I spent time in the outdoor volcanic stone whirlpool bath, cold plunge sala style pool with viewing deck of Nevis Peak (Mount Nevis) and a golf course, had a Spa Cuisine Bento Box Lunch made fresh at the resort, and received a Nevisian Massage (no longer available) in an outdoor cottage. The spa manager, Bernadette Gonnet, was in the reception area when I arrived and made several helpful suggestions. The staff members I met were friendly and the facilities quiet and pleasant. It was one of the highlights of my Nevis trip.
by Editor | Sep 8, 2015 | Attractions, Luxury Travel
Article and photos by Elena del Valle
Signs along the trail described its history
During a recent stay in Bloomington, Indiana I discovered the B-Line Trail, a 12 food wide asphalt, multi-use 3.1 mile pedestrian and cyclist pathway, when I asked about jogging near my centrally located hotel. Meetings and activities kept me busy the majority of the days and into the early evenings. Taking advantage of the little free time I had at my disposal in the early mornings I set out to explore as much of the trail as I could.
One of five different exercise devices in three fitness stations on the trail, south of First street
It ran from the east side of Adams Street, through downtown, past the switchyard property, to the north side of Country Club Drive. It had well marked ground level street crossings at the intersections. Many of the cars stopped or slowed down when they saw pedestrians at the crosswalks. There were pedestrian bridges over Third Street and Grimes Lane. There were paved plaza areas next to City Hall, at the WonderLab Museum, behind the Convention Center, and at Seminary Square shopping center. There were exercise stations, benches and public art scattered along the trail, especially near the downtown section.
There were signs highlighting spots along the trail
Perhaps because of the summer break it was a bit lonely jogging in the predawn hours. Some of the graffiti peppered under bridges and abandoned buildings spooked me at first. As the sun rose, there were more people cycling, walking, jogging and walking their dogs. Some took advantage of the two foot wide gravel shoulders on each side.
A view down the trail in the early morning from one of the bridges
Every so often there were garbage bins, bags for dog poop, and new looking LED street lamps on the trail. Even in the area furthest from downtown Bloomington it was never dark for very far on the path. Along the green sections, bird song mixed with the background buzz of early morning traffic and the mechanical sounds of nearby construction. Every once in a while I spotted birds. One mornings, I saw a rabbit next to the trail.
One of many signs that marked the trail path
Signs described the project, which was accomplished by the city through land acquisition for the three-mile former rail corridor (most of the costs, 80 percent, were funded by federal grant dollars). Other signs highlighted historical landmarks and public art. There were eight art pieces on the trail. I noticed a weathered steel sculpture titled “Dancing Spirit” near downtown. Some of the buildings I passed had murals made possible by a city grant.
The city had bought 28 acres of land adjacent to the southernmost section of 1.25 miles from Grimes to Countryclub in the abandoned former McDoel Railroad Switchyard. Administrators planned an addition to be named Switchyard Park and meant to feature outdoor performing arts venues, active recreational sport courts, walking trails, skatepark, splash pad, playground, and large multi-use facility.
Every morning I looked forward to my walks and jogs on the trail. They allowed me to exercise and discover a little of the city and its history, including some brush and greenery. On the path, I came across a convenient grocery store and a small cafe where I bought nutritious and tasty smoothies. The next time I visit Bloomington, I will seek accommodations near the B-line Trail. Perhaps by then the Swityard Park project will be complete.
by Editor | Jul 27, 2015 | Ecotourism, Luxury Travel, New Articles
Article and photos by Josette King
The Gulf of Corinth
I thought I knew Greece. I had visited a couple of its legendary islands and snorkeled in the crystalline waters of its rocky coves. I had stayed in Athens long enough to explore most of its nearby ancient ruins. I had enjoyed the taverna food and the street musicians playing their ornate nine-string bouzouki. And I had learned to stay clear of ouzo, the fiery local brew. So, yes I thought I knew Greece. Until I came across an eight-day Tripology Adventures itinerary from Athens to the Pindus Mountains with overnight stops in Delphi, Ano Chora, Karpenisi, Kalampaka and back to Athens.
Columns of the temple of Apollo in Delphi
Tripology is an adventure travel company that has been leading self-drive caravans of all-wheel drive vehicles into remote history-rich areas of the planet for over two decades. The Pindus Mountain Range, the vast backbone of peaks, valleys and gorges that traverses the Greek mainland from the northwest to the southeast definitely fit that profile. It is covered with forests so impenetrable that its central region, the Agrafa (Greek for unchartered), succeeded in maintaining its autonomy throughout the four centuries of Ottoman occupation of the country, becoming a refuge for the fiercely independent souls who wanted to escape the oppressors. That wild, sparsely inhabited region has remained relatively pristine to this day. Most of the roads that wind their way up and down its steep slopes are still unpaved. That was a unique opportunity to venture on terrains that I knew better than to attempt on my own and explore a Greece I hadn’t realized still existed.
Statuary from the Delphi Archeological site now on display in its museum
Our five-vehicle convoy left Athens on a sunny spring morning, four late model 4 x 4 vehicles packed with eager adventurers, 14 of us in all, following the lead land cruiser with our guide, Yoav Barashi, a seven year veteran of Tripology tours in the area. Our lead driver Nikos Manolis, an expert all terrains driver, was also a noted figure in the Greek rally community. The highlights of the first day, a relaxed seaside lunch on the Gulf of Corinth and a privately guided tour of the archeological site of Delphi, were a pleasant nod to familiar Greece, and an ideal opportunity for us to get acquainted with our traveling companions and our vehicles.
Tiny roadside shrines were a frequent sight
The next morning, the roller-coaster ride that was to become the norm for our entire 1,200 kilometer trip began in earnest as we negotiated Bauxite Way. The 24 kilometer (15 mile) uphill strip of gravel and tight turns is one of the best known stages of the Acropolis Rally of Greece, named after the nearby aluminum ore mine and the prevalent red dust. After the exhilarating driving experience followed by a break at the shaded terrace of a village taverna, we were on our way again. That time we climbed up a rough unpaved trail that hugged the rock face and curved incessantly upon itself on our way to a mountaintop picnic. Our lunch scenery was a jaw-dropping view of densely forested canyons and craggy peaks. Then after an equally tortuous descent we ended up at a rustic village inn for the night.
Lake Mornos
Day after day, as we drove deeper into the Pindus and entered the Agrafa area, the mountains became higher, the canyon deeper and the trails hewed out of the rock more forbidding. Those dramatic vistas bursting with the colors of spring were a photographer’s paradise. Each turn revealed a better view of snow capped peaks, a turquoise lake sculpted by canyons in the shape of a giant octopus or a hill dotted with the purple blooms of Judas trees. Tiny roadside shrines were a frequent sight, presumably meant to petition for divine protection on behalf of intrepid travelers or offer thanks for road catastrophes avoided as much as to mark the spot of one that had been.
The mountain roads were lined with Judas trees in full bloom
We could drive for hours without seeing a sign of human life, much less another car. Then a shepherd with his flock of long haired sheep appeared, or a herd of goats plundering the high grass at the edge of road or beekeepers tending their hives. One more bend in the road would reveal a village of sturdy stone houses stacked against the mountain, and blending into the rock. We would stop in the central platia, the village square at the heart of every Greek village bookended by the ubiquitous taverna on one side and the village church on the other. Even the smallest of churches was a treasure trove of gilded icons and byzantine style frescoes.
Cemetery on the shore of Lake Kremaston
Our guide Yoav was remarkable for his extensive knowledge of the region and also for his passionate interest in it, which he shared over our two way radio channel. He brought places and events into human context, shedding light on a vibrant and often tragic history that is little more than a footnote in western history books. He was equally knowledgeable of the tales of Greek mythology, mimicking to great effect the foibles of Zeus, Apollo, Hermes and even Aphrodite or Psyche. Had my high school history teacher possessed a fraction of his story telling talent, I might have been an ancient Greece scholar today.
Villages were stacked against the hillsides
Do I know Greece now? I do, a little better at least. But more importantly, thanks to this road journey, I fell in love with the country. I now yearn to return at the first opportunity. And best of all, I so enjoyed the Tripology Adventures way of exploring new horizons that I am already searching their destinations for my next road adventure.
