Panther cub, Florida wildlife draw to state park

Article and photos by Elena del Valle

Homosassa Springs Wildlife Park

Homosassa Springs Wildlife Park

Yuma, the Florida panther cub

Yuma, the Florida panther cub (click to enlarge)

Florida’s state animal, the panther, is one the most endangered mammals on Earth. With population estimates at less than 200 they are near impossible to observe in the wild. According to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, there are between 100 and 160 adult panthers in the wild in South Florida. These animals once ranged throughout most of the southeastern United States. By the late 1800s the Florida panther had been run off from much of its historical range because its habitat had been destroyed or by human attacks.

They are beautiful animals. When I found out I might be able to see a four month old cub in a wildlife sanctuary I jumped at the opportunity. The drive, several hours long, took me across the state from the southeastern corner of the Florida peninsula northwest to the Ellie Schiller Homosassa Springs Wildlife State Park (4150 S. Suncoast Boulevard, Homosassa, Florida 34446, www.floridastateparks.org/homosassa, +1 352 628-5343, Susan.Strawbridge@dep.state.fl.us) in Citrus County where the cub found a permanent home. I stayed at the 68-room Hampton Inn Crystal River (1103 N Suncoast Boulevard, Crystal River Florida, 34429, +1 352-564-6464, www.crystalriver.hamptoninn.com, Chris@mymaverick.net) a clean, newly built (completed in 2013) property conveniently situated a few miles north of the park.

The cub was playful and in constant motion

The cub was playful and in constant motion

When he was one week old he was rescued by wildlife personnel after his mother abandoned him or met an unknown fate herself. Having been brought up by humans, he would not be able to survive in the wild. Instead, his home will be a 80 foot by 120 foot special enclosure at the state park which was still under construction when I visited the area.

This cute fox was sleeping in the partial shade

This cute red fox was sleeping in the partial shade

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One of several eagle residents

Yuma, meaning son of the chief in a blend of Native American languages, was playful, energetic and mesmerizing. I could have watched him all day, racing across one side of his temporary fenced in enclosure to the other, climbing, chewing on his toys, eating, leaping against the fence or sitting in the shade.

A real pink flamingo

A pink flamingo

In typical hippo fashion, Lu spends his day submerged

In typical hippo fashion, Lu spends his day submerged and barely visible

With 300,000 annual visitors, the 210 acre Ellie Schiller Homosassa Springs Wildlife State Park is said to be the most visited state park in Florida. At the time I was there, it was home to fifty Florida animals such as black bears, bobcats, river otters, red wolves, Key deer, American alligators, gray fox, red fox, roseate spoonbills, eagles, herons, egrets and whooping cranes. There were several resident West Indian manatees which could at times be seen from a floating observatory that sits in the middle of Homosassa Springs. Perhaps the most famous resident of the park was Lu, a hippopotamus who was made a Florida citizen by a governor’s decree so that he could live out his days in the park when it was converted to an exclusive home of native wildlife.

Zambezi River luxury lodge offered abundant activities

Article and photos by Laura Scheiber

A giraffe keeping vultures away from her baby

A giraffe keeping vultures away from her baby

For me, an ideal vacation includes a little rest and relaxation mixed in with adventurous activities. Perhaps this was why my stay at Tongabezi Lodge along the mighty Zambezi River in Zambia was so memorable. On the day of arrival at this luxury lodge, I met with Quentino Mbingi, the director of activities, who invited me to choose from a handful of activities ranging from the adrenaline pumping thrill of sitting on the edge of Victoria Falls to relaxing on a sunset boat cruise on the Zambezi River with sundowners. Quentino efficiently put together an itinerary that allowed me to partake in all of my preferred activities during my three day stay. Most activities were included in the room rate, along with meals, and drinks. Some activities offered by outside companies were available for an additional fee.

On my first day, I enjoyed a two hour sunset cruise on the beautiful Zambezi River. Four other guests and I hopped into a small motor boat on the dock at Tongabezi with Captain Victor, a soft-spoken friendly man who pointed out the many birds we observed along the bank. We meandered around a small island in the middle of the river, and Captain Victor positioned our boat within a few feet of crocodiles sunbathing on the sandbar. Without warning, one of the big crocodiles splashed in the water at lightening speed. I had quite the adrenaline rush. I would have felt scared if I hadn’t been in such good hands.

Captain Victor serving up sundowners

Captain Victor serving up sundowners

While stopping for sundowners in the middle of the river and watching the magnificent sunset, Captain Victor explained that he was a well-known crocodile hunter who had caught hundreds of crocodiles in his lifetime and set them free further down river away from human populations. I liked hearing his fascinating stories about crocodile (and snake) hunting while drinking a refreshing South African Sauvignon Blanc on the Zambezi River.

Crocodile sunbathing on the river bank

A crocodile sunbathing on the river bank

The next day I went on a private game drive in Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park, the second smallest in all of Zambia, and roughly 20 minutes from Tongabezi. I had hoped to see a rhinoceros since it was the only one of the Big Five that I had not seen during previous safari adventures in Zambia. My private gaming guide, Fabias, provided clear and interesting explanations of the animals we saw while stopping anytime I wanted to take pictures. Most memorable was when Fabias spotted a number of vultures flying high in the sky. He drove to where they were circling and a few minutes later, he spotted a giraffe in the distance herding a bunch of vultures on the ground. Curious to find out what was going on, he drove closer to the giraffe where we eventually saw a young giraffe that had died sometime within the previous 24 hours, according to Fabias. Though sad, we couldn’t help but watch the mother giraffe valiantly try to keep the vultures away from her baby.

Guide demonstrating where I would sit in the edge of the falls

My guide demonstrated where I should sit at the edge of the falls

After a two-hour game drive, Fabias drove me to the five-star Royal Livingstone Hotel where the management of Tongabezi surprised me with a complimentary gourmet lunch and tour of Livingstone Island, which departed from the Royal Livingstone. I, along with seven other guests, was chauffeured by motorboat to the island where, our tour guide, Collins, took us on a five-minute walk to the side of the island facing Victoria Falls. He offered wetsuits to those of us interested in sitting in the natural pools in the Zambezi River on the edge of the Falls. Our fearless leader walked us toward the edge that had a heart-pounding drop of 100 meters. The views were spectacular and we were treated to a double rainbow. Collins carefully led three of us, one by one, into the water where we sat about 15 feet away from the edge of the Falls. Scary? Yes. Exhilarating and unforgettable? Absolutely. After such an adrenaline pumping experience, we were served a delicious lunch of fresh green salads, couscous, fresh tilapia fish, grilled vegetables, and a sweet bread pudding as a dessert. A South African white wine went well with the fish.

The tiger fish I caught with Fabias

The tiger fish I caught with Fabias

After we returned to Tongabezi, Fabias prepared a small motorboat for my private fishing excursion. It was a lovely late afternoon with ideal temperatures and a cloudless sky, perfect for a relaxing boat ride on the Zambezi River. Fabias patiently showed me how to work the fishing rod and explained Tongabezi’s catch and release fishing policy. Within minutes, I felt a tug on my fishing line and excitedly reeled in a tiger fish. Fabias took care of the not so pleasant task of unhooking the fish. Throughout the trip, I enjoyed sundowners of my choice and opted for a refreshing South African Sauvignon Blanc. The hour and a half fishing trip ended with a beautiful sunset. At the end of a day full of activities, I was pleasantly surprised to find a bottle of sparkling wine in a bucket of ice, and a candlelit hot bubble bath waiting for me in my room, compliments of Tongabezi.

My final river adventure was a private canoe trip. Quentino, a certified river guide, went over the safety rules and helped me into a small canoe, while Captain Victor was in a motorboat ahead looking out for crocodiles and hippos. Quentino welcomed me to paddle, but made it clear that it was not necessary if I preferred to relax and take in the tranquil scenery. After crossing the river towards the Zimbabwe side, Quentino pointed out a number of colorful birds that were fishing along the riverbank. On our way back to Tongabezi, we canoed through some reed-covered islands where hippos were resting on sandbanks about 50 feet away from us. It was exciting to be so close, but I was happy to keep a distance, as I knew how fast hippos could move. Between Captain Victor and Quentino I felt in good hands, as both had had years of training and experience as river guides.

Hippos sunbathing during my canoe trip

Hippos sunbathing during my canoe trip

The only downside of my stay at Tongabezi Lodge was that it ended too soon. The location of this luxury lodge was ideal. Just 40 minutes upstream from the hustle and bustle of Victoria Falls, the lodge was close enough for activities associated with the UNESCO world heritage site, while far enough to explore the Zambezi River. Having an activities director who customized my itinerary added a personal touch that set Tongabezi apart from other lodges. The service was top notch and I plan on returning someday to partake in the activities I did not include during this first visit.

My visit to awe inspiring Victoria Falls, Zambia

Article and photos by Laura Scheiber

A double rainbow over Victoria Falls

A double rainbow over Victoria Falls

During a trip to Zambia, I visited Victoria Falls, a UNESCO world heritage site forming part of the border of Zambia and Zimbabwe. Powered by the mighty Zambezi River, the falls are over 1,700 meters in width, and an impressive 100 meter drop. The Falls are known in the local language as Mosi-oa-Tunya meaning The Smoke that Thunders. I was in awe at the spray that loomed above this geographic wonder that has bragging rights to the greatest sheet of falling water in the world. One of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, I anticipated it to be beautiful, but Victoria Falls was beyond my expectations in terms of size, strength and magnificence.

To get to Victoria Falls, I took a one hour flight from Lusaka to Livingstone within Zambia. I stayed at Stanley Safari Lodge, a luxury lodge tucked away on a hillside in the African bush, just a ten minute drive from the falls.

The bridge connecting Zambia and Zimbabwe

The bridge connecting Zambia and Zimbabwe

To enter Victoria Falls, I had to register at an entry point. International guests at the time of my visit in June 2013 had to pay a fee of $20. Luckily for me, the staff at my lodge arranged day and night walking tours with a private guide, Effeso Hammabola, who helped me navigate through the entry process.

Since I happened to be visiting during a full moon, I had the opportunity to do an evening Luna Tour. The highlight was seeing a rainbow at night, illuminated by the moon above the falls. We stopped at four different viewing points along the man made walkway on the edge of the falls during the hour long tour. I was amazed at how close we could get to the bank of the river just before it spilled over the edge.

Though I enjoyed the evening tour, I much preferred my day visit when I could fully appreciate the beauty and impressive size of the falls.

Effeso Hammabola, my Victoria Falls guide

Effeso Hammabola, my Victoria Falls guide

Thanks to the proximity of my accommodations I was the first guest to arrive and finished up my two hour tour before hoards of tourists entered the site. Starting at the bank of the river, Effeso and I followed the walkway that had numerous lookout points from different angles, including the side of the falls, directly facing the falls and views of the Zimbabwe side where we could see a series of gorges. It was a pleasant pathway with many trees and greenery surrounding it.

I visited at the end of June, which was an ideal time because there was still an impressive amount of water in the Zambezi River that powered the falls yet the water flow wasn’t so strong that the amount of spray made it difficult to see, which happens, I was told, during the wet season.

Spray from Victoria Falls

Spray from Victoria Falls

Overall my trip to the area was an unforgettable experience due to the awe inspiring size, incredible force and utter beauty of Victoria Falls. I would recommend a trip to friends and family who are interested in geographic wonders. I also would return to Stanley Safari Lodge to steer clear of the urban hustle and bustle of Livingstone while remaining close enough to the falls in the early morning hours.

Maine Moosehead Lake fall flight aboard rare seaplane feast for the eyes

By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox

Currier's Fliying Service

Currier’s Flying Service had a selection of amphibious aircraft

During a stay in the Moosehead Lake area in Maine we took advantage of the autumn picture perfect weather by going on a scenic flight. The Moosehead & Lobster Lake Air Tour offered by Currier’s Flying Service, Inc. consisted of an hour long scenic flight on a 1954 de Havilland Beaver seaplane, one of few such seaplanes still in commercial use in the United States. A two person minimum was necessary.

Moosehead Lake shoreline

The shore of Moosehead Lake before takeoff

We departed from just outside of Greenville on the southern side of the lake, flying north along the Moosehead Lake’s eastern shore toward Lobster Lake then west past Mount Kineo and south again to our point of departure. In addition to our pilot, we shared the plane with a couple celebrating their wedding anniversary.

Fall colors from the air

Fall colors from the air

Fall colors were beginning to spread along the canopy of tress across the lake area like a blossoming palette of colors on a painter’s canvas. The sun was reflected brightly on the water during our mid afternoon flight.

Pilot and owner of Currier's Flying Service

Roger Currier, pilot and co-owner of Currier’s Flying Service

As we flew north we could see the small shadow our plane cast along our path. The time on the plane remains among my vivid memories of that trip. Should I return to that part of Maine I would take the tour again in a heartbeat.

Portland farmers market rich in organic, colorful produce

By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox

The Wednesday green market in Monument Square

The Wednesday green market in Monument Square

These unique flowers would make a nice fall display

These fall flowers would make a nice display

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On a recent visit to Portland, Maine we discovered the city’s farmers markets. Vendors were in attendance from early morning until early afternoon twice weekly. Wednesday it was on Monument Square in the heart of the city, and Saturday it was at Deering Oaks Park, a green corner of Portland.

A wide variety of locally grwon vegetables were on display

A wide variety of locally grown vegetables was on display

Cauliflower in colors and varieties

Cauliflower for sale Saturday

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While smaller than some of the farmers markets and green markets we have visited in other locations the ones in Portland stood out for the colorful variety, plentiful quantity and high quality of organic fall produce. In addition, there were dairy products, lamb, pork, poultry, meat and meat products, honey and honey products, herbs, flowers and plants. According to the market’s website (portlandmainefarmersmarket.org) 41 vendors participate regularly.

Small farms brought sheep and goat cheeses and products

Small farms brought sheep and goat cheeses and products

Lovely fall flower pots in a variety of colors

Lovely fall flower pots in a variety of colors

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The items we sampled onsite or took with us were of high quality and good taste. Examples included purple and green Romanesque cauliflower, broccoli, goat’s milk cajeta (a light brown sweet spread we sampled on a crunchy apple sliver), hard cheese, apples, strawberries, husk cherries, pears, honey, and several types of kale. Vendors, often the farmers themselves, although busy were friendly and helpful. The next time we’re in Portland we plan to return to the farmers markets.

La Cenerentola at Paris Palais Garnier delightful

By Elena del Valle*

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The interior of the Palais Garnier

For years we had wanted to attend an operatic performance at the Palais Garnier, the old opera in Paris, France. We had enjoyed one at Opera Bastille, the modern theater across town, and longed for the exuberant historic building’s greater intimacy. On our last visit to Paris we managed with no small amount of effort to obtain good seats in the ninth arrondisement building. La Cenerentola was one of a few operas performed in the theater that season and happily for us one that we liked.

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Marianna Pizzolato (Angelina)

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Claudia Galli (Clorinda), Nicola Alaimo (Dandini), Bruno De Simone (Don Magnifico), Marianna Pizzolato (Angelina), Maxim Mironov (Don Ramiro) et Anna Wall (Tisbe)

By the time we checked for tickets online several months in advance of our strip nearly all shows were sold out. Luck was on our side for a performance on a Sunday at 2:30 p.m. On the day of the three hour event, the weather was clear. We enjoyed a plentiful brunch prior to our arrival at the Palais.

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The three sisters in La Cenerentola

I was thankful that we arrived in a good mood. When we went to pick up our tickets at the window we encountered a long line. Worse yet we discovered the opera cashier was unable to accept any of several credit cards we offered making it necessary for us to pay in cash. Once inside, the lines for the coat check and the restroom were so long we avoided both. This meant no food or beverages during the intermission. And we were forced to carry our sweaters and coats as we strolled along exploring the beautiful halls of the old building.

La Cenerentola (saison 2011-2012)

A scene in La Cenerentola

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The ceiling of the Palais Garnier

 On the plus side, the interior of the theater was as pretty as we anticipated and the musical event was worthwhile on its own. While a few glitches detracted from the experience overall we were rewarded with an outstanding performance by the Bayerische Staatoper from Munich accompanied by the Orchestre et Choeur de l’Opera National de Paris.

*Photos of La Cenerentola courtesy of Opéra national de Paris/ Ch. Leiber and of the Palais Garnier by Gary Cox