by Editor | Mar 1, 2010 | Accomodations, Ecotourism, New Articles
By Juan Cooper
Abraham Ramonwana, our guide at Tuli Safari Lodge
A leopard during one of several sightings
After a five hour drive from Johannesburg we arrived at Pont Drift, the border post where Abraham Ramonwana, our ranger, was waiting; he welcomed us to Botswana with a kind smile. Our native guide had enough knowledge and love for the Tuli Block, to make us feel safe and comfortable from the beginning. From the South African border we drove through the dry Limpopo River to the Northern Tuli Game Reserve, an extensive 78,000 hectare area, owned by the people of Botswana as well as private landowners and local communities. We were there to experience the Tuli Adventure Trail, a five night program offered by the Tuli Safari Lodge.
Our first stop was Nokalodi Tented Camp, located in a lovely spot just a few meters away from the Limpopo River, next to a beautiful sandstone cliff. An ancient nyala berry tree provided the perfect setting for a boma, the place where we gathered for meals and fireside time. As we arrived at the camp, we noticed staff singing to welcome us in their native songs.
Some safari vehicles had canvas in the rear and top
A klipspringer eyes us from atop a cliff
Two elephants visited the nyala berry tree in our boma
The excitement began right away. When we were just settling in our tents, Abraham called us to hop in the Land Rover for our first encounter with one of the Big Five (leopard, lion, rhino, elephant, and buffalo), a young leopard eating a freshly hunted impala under a tree. This impressive scene was the perfect welcome for a safari beginner like me. It allowed me to rapidly discover the magic of the bush. After a night game drive, in which we saw hyenas, owls and several antelopes, we went back to Nokalodi for dinner and to rest in the comfortable Meru-style tents.
Days two and three were full of intense and gratifying experiences. We went on bush walks and discovered how special the flora is, thanks to the explanations of our ranger. We climbed the sandstone hills and were rewarded with extraordinary views of the reserve; and felt the breeze full of unique scents that reminded me I was in Africa. One afternoon while we were in the boma, we had an unexpected visit to the camp; two curious and hungry elephants came to the nyala berry tree that provided shade to our boma to feed. They seemed to be so relaxed that Abraham let them stay near us for a while, providing a perfect moment to take photos and safely enjoy the elephants up close.
An ostrich
The confluence of the rivers was an ideal spot for brunch
Another special experience we had was an excursion to the confluence of the Shashe and Limpopo rivers, a scenic corner were Botswana, South Africa and Zimbabwe meet. On our way there we saw colorful birds like the lilac breasted roller, antelope like wildebeest, springbok, impala and kudu, and others like baboons, vervet monkeys and crocodiles. The confluence of the rivers was an ideal spot for a generous brunch which we thoroughly enjoyed while watching the gorgeous landscape.
A shower at Tuli Safari Lodge
There was also a bathtub in the suite
As the bush is always active, the night drives were intense moments when we looked for nocturnal animals like cats (leopards, lions, and servals), jackals and hyenas during the game drives. These adventures became more thrilling with the sounds of the bush, the clear skies and shinning stars.
An afternoon bush walk during which we could see details that we missed from the Land Rover like skulls, footprints and birds, led us to a hide, a place from which to see wild animals while remaining unseen, where we would spend the night. A vibrant sunset was the backdrop for a perfectly served dinner before we jumped into bed with a spotlight in hand so we could look for animals from the top floor of the wooden structure. The next day we arrived at the place we had most anticipated visiting on our trip, the lodge. It was like an oasis in the middle of the desert, with beautiful gardens, vervet monkeys in the trees, and steenboks and warthogs eating grass. The suites were spacious, clean and luxurious, and my bed was perfect for a well deserved rest after all those adventures. There was also a swimming pool, cozy bar, dining room and lounge to sit and chill.
In the following game drives we saw leopards twice more, as well as hyenas, giraffes, elephants, and many African antelopes and birds. For me the Tuli Adventure Trail was a breathtaking experience from beginning to end. With a perfect location, wonderful flora and fauna and the most charming staff taking care of us, I felt at home in the middle of the bush. Click here to read more about our visit to the Tuli Safari Lodge.
by Editor | Feb 15, 2010 | Accomodations, New Articles
Article and photos by Josette King
Lush gardens surround the pool
Room Two is a spacious rondavel
The living area is an expansive curved open space
Idwala Guest House was just the place to reconcile me with the thought of an overnight flight, at least when the vagaries of Southern Africa air travel scheduling dictate a next night layover in Johannesburg. Built over one century ago as a farmhouse in what was then the countryside to the north of the city, the property had over time been choked by encroaching suburbia.
A few years ago its dilapidated cluster of classic South African stone and thatch rondavels caught the interest of its current owners, the Friese family. Various members of the family contributed their individual expertise ranging from architecture and interior design to computer technology and hotel management to create an enclave of bucolic luxury in the heart of the city.
The sink is set in a vanity of polished poured concrete
I loved this intimate inn with its friendly staff and personalized service, excellent in-house restaurant, state-of-the art technology throughout, superbly appointed rooms and convenient central location (a mere 30-minute drive from the airport). Small wonder that although it had been open only three years at the time of my visit Idwala Guest House had already earned the coveted Five Star rating from the Tourism Grading Council of South Africa. Click here to read the complete article about my recent stay at Idwala Guest House.
by Editor | Jan 25, 2010 | Accomodations, New Articles
Article by Elena del Valle and photos by Gary Cox
We liked spending time in the Botsebotse common areas
Botsebotse Bush Retreat was our last stop in South Africa’s Waterberg region, a farming and game viewing area northwest of Johannesburg. Just before arriving at Botsebotse we had been on safari nearby following the usual early morning and late evening routine and enjoying game sightings. By the time we arrived at the bush retreat we had been traveling for nearly a month starting in the wineland area near Cape Town and making our way through the famed Garden Route to a game reserve in the Eastern Cape near Port Elizabeth before flying north to Johannesburg.
A yummy fruit plate
Inside the Money Mask Room
Although there were many activities options near Botsebotse what we were looking forward to, without even knowing it, was an opportunity to decompress. Christine Hall, host and property owner of the luxury guest house, picked up on that right away. She quickly and graciously reorganized the fun filled itinerary she had on offer to include a half a day of indulgence, in-room spa treatments and a romantic candle lit gourmet dinner. Just what the doctor ordered.
The luxury four-guestroom house offered a perfect setting of quiet, privacy, service, and delicious meals all within a short drive or flight from Johannesburg and yet a world away from the urban noise, crime and pollution. It was also an ideal stopping point for visitors driving to Botswana’s Tuli Block. Botsebotse worked closely with the Tuli Safari Lodge (a safari property in the Tuli area we visited later that week), providing accommodations to guests on their way there and back who preferred to stop en route instead of driving nonstop from Johannesburg. We departed refreshed and invigorated, looking forward to returning at the next opportunity. Click here to read about our visit to Botsebotse Bush Retreat.
by Editor | Jan 18, 2010 | Accomodations, Food and Wine, New Articles
By Elena del Valle and photos by Gary Cox
A quiet corner at Asara near the reception
The Sansibar Cigar and Whiskey Lounge
We arrived at Asara Wine Estate and Hotel, a small luxury and gourmet oriented hotel and wine producing property just outside the college city of Stellenbosch in South Africa’s wine region, in early spring. Although there was a definite chill in the air the days were beautiful. There were just enough puffy clouds in the perfect blue sky to make it interesting and the view of the property from our rooms was lovely. It was hard to imagine that the quiet country setting was only 25 minutes away from the airport and not much further from bustling Cape Town.
A hearty seafood lunch dish at Asara
We like that Asara is friendly to the environment. The company practices eco-sensitive biodynamic wine production to reduce the environmental impact of its operations as well as other efforts to offset the estate’s carbon footprint. Solar panels are part of the wine production process. All wine bottles and glassware on the estate are recycled.
More than 400 indigenous pin oaks trees were planted to aid oxygen production. Plans are in place to remove all alien plants from the estate by 2011. At the same time, organic waste from the restaurants and cellar is used for organic compost and the four dams in the farm are used for irrigation. No harmful chemicals are used for pest control.
Perhaps these efforts are paying off with wildlife. Recently, two new litters of endangered caracal (a fast small to medium cat similar to the serval) were seen around the estate, along with the grysbokkies, duikers and guinea fowl that the farm their home.
As a visitor what first comes to mind when I think of the 37-room Relais and Chateaux property is the view of the vineyards, a pond and mountains in the background from our table at Raphael’s, the hotel’s gourmet restaurant. We enjoyed the comfortable and well appointed accommodations and facilities and food and wine opportunities and would gladly return. Click here to read about our visit to Asara.
by Editor | Nov 30, 2009 | Accomodations, New Articles, Spas
Article by Elena del Valle, photos by Amparo Cadavid
A hot air balloon near Sedona
Outdoor dining at L'Auberge de Sedona
The pool area at Sedona Rouge
Sedona, a small town in northern Arizona known mostly for its red rocks and energy centers or vortexes, proved to be as pretty as we had heard. Although it is a highly touristy area in the low summer season when we were there its natural charms easily outweighed the drawbacks of a tourism driven area.
When we were there it was quiet, serene, uncrowded and pretty. Its magnificent red rocks were reason enough to draw us there and its lovely setting, crime free and clean environs made fans of us eager to return. We liked the accommodations at L’Auberge de Sedona and Sedona Rouge.
A mermaid at Sedona Rouge
Guests at L'Aubege de Sedona were welcome at Amara Spa
On our way from Sedona to the Grand Canyon
Among our favorite activities were hiking the rocks, discovering the creeks, listening to flute players such as Jesee Kalu, a midday meal at the ChocolaTree (especially the guacamole), creek side dining at L’Auberge de Sedona restaurant, and early morning time at our L’Auberge de Sedona cottage outdoor deck.
We also enjoyed time at the Sedona Rouge Spa, a day long train ride to the Grand Canyon on the Grand Canyon Railway, a dosha type session by the Buddha Stupa, a dawn balloon ride with Northern Light Balloon Expeditions and a fun and thought provoking astronomy session with Dennis Young hosted by our hotel. Click here to read more about our visit to Sedona.
by Editor | Nov 9, 2009 | Accomodations, Food and Wine, New Articles
Article and photos by Josette King
Altesino Estate in Tuscany
This was la dolce vita at its best. Not the Fellini kind with dark-of-night Vespa races through the streets of Rome and impromptu dips in Bernini fountains but a leisurely discovery of the famed cultural and natural wonders of Tuscany. Our recent journey into the sweet life began in Florence where we lingered for a week, taking in the flavor of the city and its lesser frequented artistic gems as well as the world-renowned guidebook “must” sites.
We then headed south to the province of Siena and our base for the second week of our Tuscan holiday at Le Capanne, a luxury villa near the ancient hamlet of Camporsevoli on the border with Umbria, the neighboring state. From there we motored along back roads of the Chianti and Val d’Orcia, our daily explorations taking us to famed medieval cities such as Siena, Montepulciano and Bagno Vignoni, feasting our eyes along the way on rolling hills covered with quilts of vineyards, meadows and olive groves.
While we could have planned a satisfying trip using the extensive material available to potential tourists, a truly memorable escapade required the assistance of a local whose help and suggestions ensured that we experienced not only the sites but the very essence of Tuscany. Valentina Grossi, founder and manager of One Step Closer, a customized luxury tour company in Florence, was our local contact. She focused on our special areas of interests to create memorable adventures.
Silvana Vivoli, scoops out a batch of Crema, the shop's most popular gelato
Vivoli gelati have delighted customers for 80 years
When I confessed my addiction to gelato, the decadently rich semi-soft Italian ice cream, Valentina was not content to recommend a visit to Vivoli (considered for several decades one the best gelaterias in Florence). Rather she arranged a visit with Silvana Vivoli, the grand-daughter of founder Raffaello Vivoli and current owner. We met in her laboratory where I spent a blissful hour discussing with her the finer points of gelato-making and sampling the elegant flavors that emerged from her slow-churning stainless steel centrifuges.
The Altesino Estate produces the famed Brunello di Montalcino
A record of the best vintages is kept in the Altesino library
Personal friendships dating back several generations between Valentina’s family and the owners of private art collections, landmark palazzi and exclusive wineries opened doors to experiences usually unknown to tourists. In Valentina’s company, we were welcomed by Maria Vittoria Corti Grazzi, current owner of Palazzo Peruzzi. The palace, located a few steps away from the Piazza Santa Croce, is the last privately owned palace of the Peruzzi family, a Florentine dynasty reaching back to the 14th century. In addition to a private viewing of her eclectic art collection ranging from Roman sarcophagi and Byzantine icons to a number of Florentine 17th century paintings, Maria Vittoria graciously led us on a tour of the beautifully decorated reception rooms of her palazzo.
The following week, aware of my keen interest in enology, Valentina arranged a private visit of Altesino, an esteemed boutique winery in Montalcino, where Managing Director Guido Orzalesi guided us through the entire production cycle of their superb Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino wines before treating us to a sumptuous luncheon and tasting of Altesino’s prized vintages. Even in Italy, life doesn’t get any sweeter! Click here for more about my visit to Tuscany and stay at Le Capanne at Camporsevoli.
