Vibrant artistic life, tempting eateries in Santa Fe

by | May 19, 2008 | New Articles, Restaurants

Article and photos by Josette King 

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Sculpture garden on Canyon Road

When I first heard of Santa Fe two decades ago, it conjured up magical images to my francophone ear (fée is French for fairy).  I visited and was immediately enchanted by the city’s unique blend of Native American, Hispanic and Anglo cultures and its colorful Pueblo-style adobe buildings strung along easily walkable streets. I have returned several times to enjoy its old-world charm and  vibrant artistic life: catch an opera under the stars during the summer-long opera season, linger in the  many museums or browse the hundreds of art galleries scattered  around the historic Plaza and along the mile-long Canyon Road.

Recently, I was back for a new experience of the city, a relaxing winter weekend get away. Beneath the brilliant high desert sky, the southern Rockies vistas were especially spectacular under a dusting of snow, tourists were few and the pace pleasingly slow. It was a great opportunity to browse at leisure through the uncrowded streets and quasi deserted museums, enjoy a day of decadent pampering at one of the superb spas, and unhurried meals at old and new favorite eateries.

Santa Fe offers such a varied selection of tempting restaurants and cuisines in all price ranges that is difficult to single out favorites. During this visit, in addition to the outstanding Anasazi Restaurant at the inn of the same name (see separate story) I especially enjoyed:

The Shed
113 East Palace Avenue, Santa Fe, New Mexico, +1 505 982-9030

Tucked away in a courtyard behind the thick walls of a hacienda built in 1692, half a block away from the Plaza, the Shed is a local institution and my favorite place for a casual meal in Santa Fe. Owned and managed by the Carswell family since its inception in 1953, it is a lively place where locals and tourists crowd around tiny tables to enjoy robust portions of a unique blend of Pueblo, Mexican and Spanish cuisine.  I particularly liked the Posole, a Pueblo stew of Nixtamal corn (a hominy-like grain) stewed with lean pork, garlic and oregano, which was served on its own or as an accompaniment with various enchiladas; my favorite being the Chicken Enchilada Verde, baked in The Shed’s signature roasted green chili sauce. But I made sure to save room for the fresh lemon soufflé, especially tart and light, and served right out of the oven. Lunch was seated first come, first served, and reservations were strongly recommended for dinner.

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Antique Santa Fe style home on Canyon Road

La Boca 
72 West Marcy Street, Santa Fe, New Mexico.  + 1 505-982-3433

The brainchild of Chef Joseph Campbell Caruso, a Boston-born Basque Italian and former executive chef of a well-known Canyon Road Spanish restaurant, La Boca dished out a wide assortment of imaginative tapas to a weekend crowd of enthusiastic dinners. With its ivory painted walls, track lighting and white linen-clad confetti-size tables, the place was a bit short on atmosphere, but there was nothing minimalist about what came out of the kitchen, one delicious small plate after another.

On the night of my visit, the menu featured 25 enticing tapas, each more tempting than the next. The ahi tuna carpaccio served with a blood orange aïoli, chopped Kalamata olives and a drizzle of smoked sea-salt was superb. The canelone filled with lump crab and scallop and topped with broiled creamy Manchego cheese was another of my favorites. I found the house salad of crisp greens and grilled pears lightly seasoned with pomegranate-walnut vinaigrette and Cabrales toping (Asturian blue cheese) a satisfying palate cleanser.

There were also a handful of main course specials on the menu. I tried the paella but found it unremarkable. It was rather bland as it can be when precooked. However, it was soon redeemed by my dessert selection: a glorious slice of helado de torron (semi frozen nougat mousse) drizzled with candied orange syrup. The Mediterranean menu was complemented by a small, reasonably priced wine list that featured offerings from Spain, Italy, France, and Argentina. Although this 54-seat storefront restaurant had only been open since the fall of 2006, it was already recognized around town as “not to be missed” among the myriad dining options in Santa Fe. Reservations were strongly recommended for dinner.

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Dusk in Santa Fe

Shopping is one of my favorite pastime times in Santa Fe, especially for native jewelry and craft. My first stop is always the open gallery in front of the Palace of the Governors, where Native American artists offered a broad selection of handmade turquoise and silver jewelry, beadwork and pottery. In addition, this is one of my favorite galleries:

Keshi
227 Don Gaspar Street, Santa Fe, New Mexico.  + 1 505-989-8728

I especially enjoyed shopping at Keshi, a downtown gallery started in 1981 as a Zuni-owned co-op. Now privately owned, it still carried only authentic works by artists from the Zuni Pueblo as well as a few artists from other pueblos. In addition to stunning stonework and silver jewelry, and a nice assortment of pottery, Keshi carried a large collection of fetish animal carving as well as high quality Hopi Kachina dolls (stylized religious icons representing figures from the Hopi mythology).  Click here to  read more about Santa Fe and my recent visit 
 

Selati – nostalgic setting, excellent game viewing

by | May 12, 2008 | Accomodations, Ecotourism, New Articles

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Lions at Selati

We recently enjoyed a most pleasant stay and outstanding game viewing at railroad themed Selati Camp near the world famous http://simonandbaker.com/kruger.  Selati is one of four luxury properties in the privately owned Sabi Sabi Reserve within the larger Sabi Sands Reserve that borders one of the best game viewing areas of the park.

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Our bathroom at Selati

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A mongoose at Selati

Our visit was made especially fun and rewarding thanks to Tal, our indefatigable guide who was always eager to find and share with us the many marvels of the bush. If it flew, walked, crawled or crouched he found a way for us to see and enjoy it while remaining vigilant and looking out for our safety and well being. Click here to read our dedicated feature on Selati Camp

Ultraviolet gadgets designed to zap germs during trips

by | May 5, 2008 | Ecotourism, Products

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SteriPEN Traveler

The more crowed airplanes and airports become the more we worry about picking up other people’s germs and the infectious diseases they may carry. As anyone who has traveled lately can tell you, it’s almost impossible not to touch one or more surfaces that may be germ infested at the security lines, in the bathrooms, and on airplanes which are often emptied and refilled within minutes. If the seats are still warm the germs may be alive and available to hitch a ride on new guests. We don’t want to be host to any germs. 

That’s where portable gadgets to zap germs (viruses and bacteria) with ultraviolet light come in handy. The ultraviolet is as harmful to humans as to the germs so it’s important to keep the light away from skin, eyes and face to avoid burns. That has never happened to us in all the times we have used these ultraviolet travel products.

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The handheld Nano UV Scanner

One item is the SteriPEN Traveler, a water cleaner for remote locations, emergencies and situations where the water supply may be less than desirable. Water born microbes can knock travelers out of commission during a trip and spoil a day or more of activities. Although there are inexpensive options (boiling or adding chemicals to the water are the most common) to ensure water is safe to drink they are often cumbersome and time consuming. A lightweight, handheld device capable of killing unhealthy germs can be a god send, especially in exotic destinations including some safari countries.

On planes, trains and automobiles the Nano UV Scanner handheld ultraviolet sanitizer is easy to use and takes up little space in hand luggage. A couple of slow runs over the seatbelt buckle, tray table and armrests is all it takes. A similar operation in the lavatory and public bathrooms will serve the same purpose.

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VIOlight Toothbrush Sanitizer

We always take a VIOlight Toothbrush Sanitizer with us, especially on extended trips.  The VIOlight comes in a handy travel and storage case. A minute of ultraviolet light and our toothbrush seems to be good as new (from a germ point of view). Plus it never seems to pick up odors (even after months on the road or in the travel case). We use it with electric toothbrush heads and regular toothbrushes. It holds up to two heads (or one full size toothbrush) in one case making it ideal for couples.

All three gadgets are lightweight; battery operated, and take little space. The light bulbs that generate the ultraviolet light appear to have a long shelf life. For example, according to the manufacturer, the bulb of the Nano UV Scanner lasts up to 5,000 hours. We haven’t even come close to using it that many hours. It comes with two AAA batteries which seem to last a long time. It’s 3¾ x 1¾” x 1¼” in size and weighs 3 oz. The water cleaner is the most expensive so we try to tuck it inside our carry on luggage along with the handheld cleaner for personal space sanitation on airplanes and during trips. The VIOlight usually travels with the checked in luggage.