Luxury Travel Review
Our excellent gourmet lunch at Paris Marais tea salon
By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox
The Mariage Frères Marais tea salon entrance
The best tea lunch I have had in Paris, on more than one occasion, was at the famed Mariage Frères Marais tea salon (30 rue du Bourg-Tibourg, 75004, Paris, France, www.mariagefreres.com, info@mariagefreres.com ). Arriving just before lunchtime on a quiet spring Monday, we had a choice of seats in the 100 square meter two level eatery with a staff of 10. The tables were set very close to each other, which made conversation with neighbors easy and privacy for anything above a whisper scarce. We selected a table beneath the salon’s skylight in the larger and most central of the salon’s two rooms. For a short while we delighted in having the salon to ourselves.
Natural light filled that section of the dining room through the skylight.
We selected two items with the assistance of Charly Chareyron, director, Food and Beverage, one from the Brunch Menu and the other from the Lunch Menu, and concluded our tasting with two of the salon’s signature desserts. Once we narrowed down the meal choices he recommended a tea to match each of our dishes as well as a shared tea for dessert. Had we preferred we could have picked our own teas from the extensive tea menu and the companion reference guide.
The Matcha San Brunch included a sweet champagne cocktail.
We had Snob Salad, a Mesclun seasoned with Parc Royal tea, cured salmon and shrimp, homemade duck foie gras, violet artichoke hearts and haricots verts, turmeric wheat, Matcha toast; and Matcha San Brunch, a Matcha Salmon, fromage blanc with Poudre de Jade dish, which was accompanied by a sweet champagne cocktail. Although both dishes were outstanding, I far preferred the Snob Salad.
We loved the Matcha Uji, a traditional whipped green tea from Japan served with raspberry and tea cakes.
Dessert was Étoile Mystérieuse, Luscious cheesecake glazed with Very Beautiful Fruit Tea French meringue polka dots, intense raspberry coulis speckled with 24 karat gold, and Carré d’or, Dark chocolate entremets flavored with Black Magic tea, salted butter caramel and chocolate cake wrapped with 24 karat gold leaf, very sweet red currant coulis.
The Marriage Snob Salad, a favorite
The dishes were served on branded ceramic dinnerware custom made for Mariage Frères. The elegant service included cotton tablecloth and napkins, and stainless steel flatware. Our English speaking servers wore refined linen suits in muted ecru.
The portion of the Matcha Salmon was generous.
Our off the menu teas were Matcha Uji, a traditional whipped green tea from Japan (a favorite despite the its lingering stimulating jolt); Yuzu Temple, a green tea flavored with Japanese yuzu; and Blanc & Rose, a white tea mixed with tender oriental rosebuds. The first two were served in Art Déco Teapots, ceramic teapots with a polished steel globe. Those teapots, used in the company’s tea salons since the beginning, were emblematic of Mariage Frères. We liked how well the teapot kept the beverage warm throughout the meal. The delicate and pretty white tea was served in a Cotton Club glass teapot with silver plated handle and lid.
The delicate Blanc & Rose was served in a Cotton Club glass teapot with silver plated handle and lid.
The teas paired with our dishes were outstanding. Having said that, the delicate tea flavors could easily have stood on their own. And, the homemade delectable dishes made from all fresh ingredients, clearly chosen with much care, would be enough to draw me back even if I didn’t drink tea. Fortunately I do, making lunch at the tea salon a double pleasure. So much so that later during our stay we returned and both ordered Snob Salads.
The Carré d’or was made with dark chocolate wrapped in gold foil and red currant coulis.
When we asked a company spokesperson what made their meal service so special she replied, “French savoir-faire based on a tradition of elegance, refined settings, and an innate sense of festivity. Mariage Frères has created the French Art of Tea with a special care of the preparation method, the quality of the water, correct steeping time, careful selection of the perfect tea and the perfect teapot.”
The Étoile Mystérieuse cheesecake
I was especially pleased to discover the company continually tests its teas for purity and content, and uses no artificial ingredients or preservatives in its teas. I also liked that some of the dishes were made with organic ingredients such as the smoked salmon, and that there were about 100 organic teas available. An added convenience was the ability to order tea from the shop while dining at the salon, an especially welcome amenity on days when the shop was over busy. The Mariage Frères Marais is at the top of my tea salons list and on my short list of Paris gourmet venues.
Tiny tasting at well known Paris caviar shop
By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox
The eye catching Prunier facade
For caviar and salmon newbies Boutique Prunier Madeleine (15 place de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris, France, +33(0)1 47 42 98 98, www.prunier.com/boutique, info@prunier.com), a Paris, France seller of farmed caviar and salmon among other gourmet delicacies, offered a low risk tasting. On our most recent visit to the City of Lights we went to the shop’s Place de la Madeleine location to try it. The first thing I noticed before even entering the 40 square meter shop established in 2006 was its eye catching bright blue tile facade. Although there were several gourmet shops in a row on the same street it was the Prunier window where I saw pedestrians browsing.
The window displayed vodka, salmon, caviar and champagne products
On the day of our appointment, Douchka Papierski, manager, Boutique Prunier, welcomed us with a sunny smile to match the spring weather. She led us to the Maturation Room, a refrigerated space with three glass walls facing the shop entrance. It was in that room where the caviar used to be stored in the past, she explained as we glanced around at the dozens of empty caviar tins that decorated the back wall. In front of us Douchka had set up two mother of pearl caviar spoons atop ice, two single morsels of the house salmon, and two shot glasses with a splash of clear liquid, one for each of us.
Douchka Papierski greeted us at the shop
We each had a single serving of 5 grams of Caviar Prunier Tradition, which she had prepared in advance of our arrival. She chose mother of pearl spoons because, she explained, metal spoons affect the delicate flavor of the caviar. For those who don’t own mother of pearl spoons 22 karat gold and plastic, neither of which alters the delicate flavor of the fish eggs, spoons will work just as nicely, according to her.
Our tasting was in the chilled room where they used to age the caviar
We began with the caviar. As soon as I placed the minuscule fish eggs, from a farm in the Dordogne region of France, in my mouth they melted. The flavor was mild and the texture buttery. It didn’t linger long.
The display case shows the varieties of caviar available
Moments later we each tasted the Balik Tsar Filet salmon cube, farmed in Norway and smoked in the Swiss Alps. It too had a mild almost sweet taste and even more buttery texture than the caviar. As with the caviar it seemed easy to eat and we liked it.
One of the shop’s refrigerators had Balik Salmon in several sizes
Next, Douchka described the single serving in the glasses as she introduced us to Lactalium, an artisan vodka made from milk from the Auvergne region of France. The nose was unlike any vodka I had sampled before. We each tasted the transparent liquid in our glasses. Perhaps because the smell was so distinctive I was it tasted like vodka. As we walked out of the refrigerated tasting area I wondered if the vodka would taste different with the caviar or the salmon or if the delicacies would have been enhanced by the vodka.
Another display case at the shop
Caviar House and Prunier recipes
The price of the tasting we had, a single serving each of caviar (5 grams) and a similar amount of salmon, was 20 euros per person. The vodka was optional and complimentary “depending on the people, time they have, where they from and what’s new at the shop to discover and introduce to clients just like this special vodka of milk,” our host explained. As we left she gifted us a copy of Caviar House & Prunier Winter 2015/2016, an intriguing 63-page hardcover color cookbook with caviar, salmon and foie gras photos and recipes from chefs Mauro Elli and Chery Rohner.
Comfy appeal of two-bedroom apartment with water views in Providenciales
Article and photos by Elena del Valle
My view from the balcony to the right
From my fourth floor Two Bedroom Ocean View Suite at the Blue Haven Resort and Marina (Leeward, Providenciales, Turks and Caicos Islands, British West Indies, +649 946 9900, toll free +1 855 832-7667, www.bluehaventci.com, contact@bluehaventci.com) I had sweeping views of the property grounds, including the man made beach, and the turquoise waters of Providenciales, the most popular of the Turks and Caicos Islands. As a bonus there was an osprey nest across the canal from my balcony. The well appointed and comfortable 1,650 square foot apartment with hotel services was so nice and the hotel amenities so convenient that if it hadn’t been for my desire to discover the natural beaches and explore the island I might have stayed indoors.
The view straight across from Suite 402 at the Blue Haven Resort and Marina
Suite 402, a corner unit on the fourth floor of a five story building, had pretty water views from the balcony, living room and master bedroom. It had two en suite bedrooms, a single space with living, dining and kitchen areas, and a covered balcony facing the front and side of the building. The high end kitchen had wood cabinets, an island and marble top counters. It was equipped with full size modern appliances, including a refrigerator with freezer, oven and stove, microwave, dishwasher, and stacked washer and dryer.
The master bedroom
In the master bedroom a king bed was framed by identical glass topped wood night tables with wall mounted lamps. One had a clock radio with iPod docking capability. Across from the bed there was a glass topped wood dresser and above it, atop a wood wall mounted shelf, was a flatscreen television. Temperature control was via an efficient central air conditioner and ceiling fans (one in each bedroom and one in the living room).
In Suite 402, a single area had the kitchen, dining room and living room
In the dining area, there was a glass topped wood dining table with four armless cushioned wood chairs and a built-in wood cabinet with a marble top beneath a rectangular framed mirror. On the opposite wall there were three palm tree themed glass framed posters. The khaki tile floor complemented the off white wall color. I liked the high ceiling, contemporary comfortable furnishings and small touches like black out curtains in the rooms, and a walk-in closet with an electronic safe in the master bedroom.
The second bedroom in Suite 402
Among the suite amenities there were: complimentary internet connectivity (the speed was slow), fruit bowl, paper towels, two individual load size containers of powder All laundry detergent, shower cap, printouts of daily papers such as USA Today at reception, house brand bottled water, two line phones in the bedrooms, living room, and master bathroom. There were also Sharp flatscreen televisions in the bedrooms and living room, and two cotton bathrobes and slippers per bedroom.
The infinity swimming pool
Facilities included a restaurant, bar, beach, pool, fitness room, and spa and mini-mart (across the parking lot). The Fitness Center had two Precor treadmills, one bicycle, one leg curl and three elliptical Precor machines as well as free weights, multiple use machine, bench, and towels. The Precor machines had built-in Cardio Theater monitors.
Sharick, Keisha, Ramona and Darrel at the front desk, and Beryl Charles, manager, Rooms Division, were friendly and helpful. My suite was serviced twice daily.
The reception desk staff at hotel were friendly and helpful
Fire and Ice restaurant
During my stay, I had dinner once at Fire and Ice, the domain of French executive chef Laurent Ajas, a proud member of L’Ordre International des Disciples d’Auguste Escoffier. I ordered two of the house specialty dishes, including the Cataplana (seafood prepared in a copper pot), recommended by my server. The staff at dinner were friendly and helpful. The meal was well presented and delicious.
My tasty appetizer
The executive chef, Laurent Ajas, was a member of L’Ordre International des Disciples d’Auguste Escoffier
My server recommended the Cataplana, a seafood dish prepared in a copper pot
The 15 acre four star (self categorized) property had 40 rooms and 50 employees. Children of all ages were welcome. I saw a number of children, some loud, at breakfast and dinner. While cooling breezes crossed the partially open Mediterranean Influence lobby immediately next to the porte cochere arrival area there were strong food smells in some of the front areas of the building, especially near the workout room. The hotel was voted one of the Top 20 Hotels in the Caribbean in 2016 in the TripAdvisor Travellers Choice Awards.
The hotel’s beach area at the end of the day
Beryl Charles, manager,
Rooms Division
The hotel seen from the edge of the beach
I liked the hotel’s water views, friendly staff, the breeze that flowed through the lobby during the day, the well kept grounds, the spacious and well appointed two-bedroom suite with ocean views, Fire and Ice restaurant for dinner as well as the luxury amenities and facilities, and would return should my travels take me to that part of Providenciales.
Independent Paris artists share their work, city favorites in book
The Tall Trees of Paris*
In The Tall Trees Of Paris (Overcup Press, $49) art enthusiast Matt Wagner showcases 42 contemporary Parisian artists and their work. The 285-page hardcover color book in English and French, released May 2016, took him a year from idea to publication. There was no cost to the artists to be included.
Each artist profile includes a photo of the artist’s work space, a portrait of the artist or the self image of her or his choice, and photos of his or her work. Wagner selected the artists through his contacts in the art world. The handwritten answers to nine identical questions appear on one page and a typewritten translation in English appears on the opposite page. Among the questions are the artist’s favorite restaurant, bars, shops and museums.
“Paris is the foundation of contemporary art, the requirement for graduation,” said Wagner in a press release promoting his new title. “Accordingly, it’s also easily overlooked. Like arches that support an ancient aqueduct, nobody even notices them as long as the water is flowing. But without Paris, the flow of art would have stopped. Paris is good at art. Good enough that people have stopped noticing and just take it for granted. Ultimately, the Tall Trees books are about people. The questionnaires introduce the featured artists to readers, detailing their favorite things about the place they live and work. We become invested in the artist’s wellbeing like that of a friend.”
The artists featured are: 2Shy, Alëxone, Alexandra Arango, Céline Artigau, Nicolas Barrome Forgues, Martes Bathori, Blek Le Rat, Agnes Boulloche, Broll & Prascida, Thierry Bruet, Ludovic Debeurme, Veronique Dorey, Dugudus, Elobo, Christelle Enault, Agnès Ernoult, Sébastien Féraut (Niark1), Christian Guemy (c215), HONET, Kerascoët, Koleo, Koralie, Eric Lacan (Monsieur Qui), Hubert de Lartigue, Jean Leblanc, Jean Lecointre, Lek & Sowat, Levalet, Nicolas Martin, Jean-Michel Ouvry, Tristan Pernet, Aurore Petit, Bruno Pontiroli, Francesca Protopapa (il Pistrice), Sebastien Preschoux, RERO, Jérémy Schneider, Supakitch, Sébastien Touache, TYRSA, Amandine Urruty, and Frédérique Vernillet.
Matt Wagner, editor, The Tall Trees of Paris
”
The Tall Trees of Paris
book is for the curious, the traveler and the art lover,” Wagner said, by email through his publisher, when asked who might like his book. “It’s a great travel guide for finding undiscovered spots in Paris and it’s great for learning more about discovered and undiscovered artists.” As to the criteria he used in selecting the artists for inclusion, he said,”
I am completely selfish in this aspect. I choose artists that I like their work. Lucky for me that my taste is pretty diverse. That diversity comes through in the curation of the book with the selection of painters, installation artists, sculptors, street artists, illustrators, etc.
With the Paris book I mostly found artists through networking. I would meet one artist or another curator and they would recommend an artist. That artist would then recommend another. I was able to build up quite a roster of artists in this manner.”
When asked what was the greatest surprise he had from the book project he said, “My biggest surprise is how hard I fell in love with Paris. I had only been a tourist previous to the book and didn’t really think I would become so enamored with people of Paris.”
Wagner is the founder, owner, and curator of Hellion Gallery in Portland, Oregon. Born, raised and educated in Indiana, after moving west, Wagner fell in love with Portland and learned the ropes at several galleries before opening Hellion in 2010. Prior to the Paris book, he published The Tall Trees of Tokyo (2012) and The Tall Trees of Portland (2014).
*Photos courtesy of Matt Wagner
Click to buy The Tall Trees of Paris
Great visibility, fun snorkeling in Providenciales
Article and photos by Elena del Valle
The beach at Little Water Cay also known as Iguana Island
Mike and Cheno were our crew
The day after I arrived in Providenciales in the Turks and Caicos Islands of the British West Indies I received a call from Tanya at Big Blue Unlimited (Leeward Marina, Providenciales, Turks and Caicos Islands, +1 649 946 5034, fax +1 649 946 5033, info@bigblueunlimited.com), a company owned by Mark Parrish and Philip Shearer that specialized in small groups and eco-tours. I was scheduled for a morning snorkel activity the following day, but the weather was about to change and not in a good way. Tanya had kindly found a spot for me that afternoon if I could make it.
Our boat, Starfish
With a little help from Jessica at reception at my hotel, the Beach House Turks and Caicos in the Bight, I was able to reschedule my spa treatment. At 12:30 p.m. I climbed aboard the tour company’s navy blue van with a towel and biodegradable sunblock (as suggested in my booking confirmation) for the drive to the Big Blue Unlimited office at the Leeward Marina to join eight other travelers on a four hour Caicos Cays Cruise. On our way, we picked up six travelers from Club Med. A couple from another property in the Northwest Point met us at the tour company office.
All the passengers and crew on the boat (except for me)
Within minutes of arriving we were ready. After signing a page long release form on an electronic tablet I joined my fellow travelers on the covered deck of the small office. Cheno and Mike, our crew members, introduced themselves and led us to the Starfish, our nine meter long boat for the afternoon. Mike, from North Caicos, had five years of water sports experience, three and a half with Big Blue Unlimited, and Cheno, a dive master from Atlanta and Grand Turks, had seven years of water sports experience, five of them with Big Blue Unlimited. They were friendly and managed the boat well.
A sign for the Little Water Cay Nature Reserve
One of the male Turks and Caicos rock iguanas we saw
The Starfish had cushioned seating for three in the shady stern (back of the boat). It could accommodate the remainder of our group in the sunny bow (front of the boat). On our return to the marina everyone moved forward to avoid the water splashing the stern seat. Our first stop was at Little Water Cay, a small island managed by the Turks and Caicos National Trust, where we saw a number of Turks and Caicos rock iguanas close up. A local guide led the nine of use via a wood walkway, sharing insights about the iguanas and the island. From the small dock we looped around a short distance past palm trees, trust markers and signs, and the mostly unafraid reptiles back to our starting point, and to the boat in about 15 minutes.
The sand was powdery white
I liked that the tour company sought to hire local islanders (a number of employees I met elsewhere on the island were foreign nationals), that its staff had received training about marine and coastal ecology, marine life identification, island geography and geology; and that Big Blue followed and promoted eco-tourism principals, as one of the owners explained by email.
The shallow beach was like a swimming pool with white sand and clear water
From there we motored across turquoise waters to join other tour boats at Leeward Reef, where we remained about one hour. After we tied up to the reef buoy, Mike and Cheno helped us with snorkels and masks, put anti fogging liquid in the masks, and made sure we were comfortable once in the water. Cheno led three of us snorkeling, watching us every so often to make sure we were all right. He pointed out big fish such as an oversize parrot fish, a large grouper, a barracuda and three reef sharks at varying times. The swells were high and the water cool, but the snorkeling at Leeward Reef, about 12 feet deep, made up for the minor discomfort I felt. One of the other guests had to take over counter medication for seasickness when she returned to the boat.
For snacks there were fruit slices, potato chips, muffins and brownies
After snorkeling, we went to Fort George Cay, where Mike and Cheno offered us rum punch or water and snacks of Lays potato chips, chocolate brownies, poppy seed muffins, and fresh fruit (cantaloupe and pineapple slices). Mike and Cheno stayed on the boat while the rest of us enjoyed some beach time. A short stroll from where we got off the boat the beach was shallow and the water crystal clear. It was also the warmest water I swam in during my stay in the Turks and Caicos Islands. We spent about an hour there before riding back to the marina. Moments later, we headed back to our respective hotels in the van. I made it back in time for a shower and an early dinner. For the rest of the evening I thought of the excellent visibility and fun snorkeling and beach. By the following morning the wind had picked up and the waves were choppy at the beach. I was thankful for Tanya’s call and to have enjoyed the snorkeling activity the previous afternoon.
Versatile tasting menu at Turks and Caicos boutique hotel restaurant
Article and photos by Elena del Valle
Cristian Rebolledo, executive chef, Kitchen218, and Francisco Hodge, manager, Food and Beverage at the Beach House in Providenciales, Turks and Caicos
View of Kitchen218 from across the pool
During my three night stay at the Beach House Turks and Caicos in Providenciales in the Turks and Caicos Islands of the British West Indies, owned and managed by Waterloo Hotel Management, I had an opportunity to sample the food at Kitchen218, the property restaurant with seating for 80 guests and 20 staff. In 2014, the company renovated and rebranded the restaurant with Contemporary Caribbean decor in a poolside setting.
The first course was Veggie pickle cebiche and mushrooms
Beef carpaccio
I had breakfast thrice, lunch and dinner once each. For breakfast there was a small buffet option as well as a la carte choices. The delicately fried fresh snapper served whole with tasty and savory vegetables was a favorite. For my friends who enjoy conch I would recommend the slightly sweet conch salad, a house specialty.
Tuna tartare with sesame seed lemsay dressing
The Conch chowder was a favorite
It was at dinner that the chef’s contemporary fusion culinary talents shone brightest. The night I dined there I asked Cristian Rebolledo, executive chef of the restaurant, for a suggestion that emphasized local fresh products. After debating several options he recommended his seven course tasting menu and I agreed provided it was free of hot spices. He obliged. The tasting menu cost $110 and with a wine pairing it was $155.
Sea bass Coin textures and veggies
The Zen-Noh Waygu in dark sauce with veggies and figs was outstanding
Chocolate Fantasy
His well prepared and well presented meal with wine pairing was one of the highlights of my visit to Providenciales. It consisted of: Veggie pickle cebiche and mushrooms served with 2014 Danzante pinot grigio from Italy, Tuna tartare (a favorite) with sesame seed lemsay dressing served with Matua non vintage pinot noir from New Zealand, Beef carpaccio served with 2013 Byron pinot noir from California, Conch chowder (a favorite) served with 2013 Muga Rioja from Spain, Sea bass Coin textures and veggies (not a favorite) served with 2013 JJ Vincent Bourgne Blanc from France, Zen-Noh Waygu in dark sauce with veggies and figs served with a 2014 Josh cellar cabernet sauvignon from Napa Valley (USA), and Chocolate Fantasy served with a non vintage Deviation late harvest from California (not a favorite). It was the perfect menu for a special occasion. Kitchen218 (Beach House Turk and Caicos, Lower Bight, Grace Bay, Providenciales, Turks and Caicos, +1.649.9465377218, www.beachhousetci.com, contact@beachhousetci.com) and the chef’s tasting menu will be at the top of my list of dining venues on any return trip to Providenciales.
