My room offered a sweeping view of the Manhattan skyline

When visiting New York City, I have a special fondness for Lower Manhattan, the southernmost and oldest part of the city. Although the area has gradually become gentrified in recent decades, the original ethnic neighborhoods have endured (think China Town and Little Italy). And within them new ones have emerged, such as SoHo (SOuth of HOuston Street), NoHo (NOrth of HOuston Street), TriBeCa (TRIangle BElow CAnal Street); and my new favorite, Nolita (NOrth of Little ITAly). Once considered part of Little Italy, Nolita has retained its lived-in cosmopolitan atmosphere and human scale. Here, traditional wrought-iron fire escapes still run down the façades of century-old brick apartment buildings. But old-time bakeries and utilitarian warehouses now mix with trendy shops and restaurants, and most recently, the newly opened The Nolitan Hotel.

The Empire State Building dominated the view from my room

In a town where boutique hotels often emerge from old buildings, The Nolitan grew from the ground up on what was a parking lot at the corner of Kenmare and Elizabeth streets. I loved the low-key luxury and laidback atmosphere of its light-filled lobby and lounge. With its plate glass façade and open plan, it was an inviting spot to linger and enjoy the dynamic street scene unfolding outside. My upper floor room was equally welcoming. The custom-designed contemporary furnishings and minimalist décor made for a comfortable urban retreat that was just the right setting for the jaw-dropping view. The panoramic perspective reached across the neighborhood rooftops, all the way to the Midtown Manhattan skyline dominated by the towering Empire State Building and the Art Deco spire of the Chrysler Building.

Katz Delicatessen

The Nolitan was ideally located to offer an easy all-around Manhattan experience. It was just a few minutes’ walk from the colorful chaos of Chinatown, the hip downtown shopping of SoHo and the popular delis of the Lower East Side (Katz’s Delicatessen of When Harry met Sally fame was a few blocks away on Houston Street). And when I felt like joining the Midtown crowds for a look at the famed Rockefeller Center Christmas tree (I visited in early December), or catch a Broadway show, a quick, direct subway ride whisked me there, and back home to the Nolitan faster than I could have hailed a cab. Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review to read more about my stay at The Nolitan Hotel.

Part of the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh

When I visited Cambodia the last time I much enjoyed seeing Phnom Penh and Siem Reap and their salient tourist features in the company of an English speaking private guide. In Phnom Penh, my guide escorted me to Wat Phnom, a hill temple, the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, the National Museum, the Killing fields, the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum and one of the city markets. My tours and activities were organized by or held at the Raffles Hotel Le Royal in Phnom Penh and the Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor in Siem Reap where I stayed while in Cambodia. I was especially pleased that everyone was punctual and courteous without exception.

One of the many exceptional statues at the Angkor Wat temples near Siem Reap

In Siem Reap, where I had more time, the hotel proposed a variety of activities in house and within the city. At the hotel, I attended a cocktail tasting, tea with a hotel historian, a palm tree demonstration, a wine tasting at Le Grand Wine Cellar with the sommelier and hotel manager, a lotus plant demonstration, a private sunrise visit to Angkor Wat by jeep, a buffet dinner and Apsara Dance Performance, and a visit to Phra Ong Check Phra Ong Chom temple with Mouth Saravann, resident services manager and butler of the hotel.

Lotus flower based drink demonstration and tasting

In addition, I attended a private Khmer cooking class including a visit to the Siem Reap market with Samreth Thai, junior sous chef of the hotel and my cooking instructor that day. Maing Meng Seap, the pastry chef, joined us for the important (for me) dessert course of the cooking class.

A demonstration during the cooking class

Following the cooking class, I had the pleasure of enjoying the meal we learned about in class, prepared by the hotel staff, in the hotel restaurant. And, to help me recover from all the excitement I indulged in a few spa treatments at the hotel’s Amrita Spa.

Samreth Thai, junior sous chef, and Maing Meng Seap, the pastry chef, at the Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor

Royal Khmer Cuisine book I received at the cooking class

One night, after a wine tasting at the hotel’s cozy “cellar” I enjoyed a cultural performance and dinner at the Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor in Siem Reap. The buffet dinner and performance offered copious quantifies of food, a variety of dishes and a live Khmer traditional dance performance. While I liked the food what I enjoyed the most was the performance. A group of young Khmer dancers performed six distinct pieces reflective of the traditions and fables of several regions: Ladies Bouquet, Coconut Shells Dance, Golden Mermaid (Part of the Ramayana), Tea Harvest Dance, Bokator (the Angkorean Martial Art), and Apsara Dance.

Apsara dance performance at the Raffles in Siem Reap

ATT Elevate 4G

We like to stay connected when we travel. Our latest gadget in this quest is the new ATT Elevate 4G, a portable WiFi hot-spot that allows up to five devices to share a single data service connection. Traveling with a laptop, iPad, Kindle and Skype phone can be a challenge even with today’s ubiquitous WiFi network access, but the Elevate can make connecting simple. The access speed on a 4G network was great, making Skype calls clear and cellphone and web browsing very usable. Enabling the Elevate for international use proved to be the biggest challenge.

The Elevate is a convenient size, and it can be charged via USB or the AC adapter. The devide supports tethered use via USB or up to five devices via a wireless connection. The microSD card that came with it is pointless, since it is only accessible via the USB connection and not to wireless clients.

The online menu provided useful feedback on ATT and roaming data usage, and access to control a handful of settings. The most critical of these is the option to connect to non-ATT networks when roaming. Failing to turn on this feature prevented it from working outside the United States as by default the modem would only connect to ATT networks. SMS messages were delivered via the menu system.

The menu from the ATT Elevate 4G

It was a simple process using an online form to obtain the device from ATT, but it took multiple calls to customer service to get the domestic and roaming services enabled. Getting international data roaming enabled was particularly vexing, as multiple customer service representatives did not seem to understand how to get these features working. A critical step was getting transferred to the international data desk.

We never could get it to connect on the first trip we took it on to India, Nepal, Thailand and Japan. Before traveling to the Caribbean, where the data plan covered several of the islands we were visiting, we activated an international prepaid data package. We had more luck in the Caribbean, but results were still mixed. Generally speaking, each location either worked or it did not, and no amount of playing around with settings made a difference.

Still it was exciting to be offshore in Saint Barths with WiFi access at 4G speeds for all our devices thanks to the Elevate 4G. Several improvements would enhance the service. For example, the possibility of sharing the microSD card out to the wireless devices and more consistent roaming. At the same time, I find it worthwhile to keep the data connection separate from the gadgets and be able to upgrade the data network independently in the future.

Photos: ATT.com, Simon & Baker Travel Review

The Story of Buddha A Graphic Biography book cover

Money, power, and beautiful women, three desires of countless men throughout the ages. Imagine a man who has all three. A charmed life indeed, promising years of comfort and pleasure, yet he finds nothing but emptiness. He rejects this life to pursue one of meaning and purpose, and after great struggle, he finds true happiness and enlightenment. Of course, this is the story of no ordinary man, but that of Buddha, the legendary spiritual leader whose teachings have been passed on for thousands of years.

In The Story of Buddha A Graphic Biography (Ichimannendo Publishing, Inc., $10.95) Hisashi Ota tells of Buddha’s life through manga (Japanese comics) in a 248-page softcover book filled with comic panels. Focusing on Buddha’s transformation from the wealthy Prince Siddhartha to a spiritual teacher, I found myself drawn into a world paralleling modern day pressures: opportunities to escape reality and the expectation to live a typical life set by societal norms.

I enjoyed following the story through the expressive faces of the author’s characters, and I especially felt Siddhartha’s struggle to stay true to his own chosen path of life. Chapters end with Siddhartha’s insights, seeds that later blossom into the tenets of Buddhism. It was engaging to learn about Buddhism through the progressive rhythm of a narrative story with stylized visuals instead of a dry historic text.

Hisashi Ota, author, The Story of Buddha A Graphic Biography

Ota poured feeling, action, and passion into each page. The story felt like a mirror to reflect upon modern life. Ota’s book pulses in the present, not the historic past, introducing Buddha’s teachings to audiences new and old, perhaps inspiring others to find joy and meaning in life.

I found Ota’s manga approach to Buddha’s story appealing because of the art form’s cinematic visual style. Ota, a graduate of Nagoya University’s School of Science, has been drawing manga for 20 years and his manga about Buddhism in Japan has been published regularly. Born a Buddhist, to this day Ota continues his training at the Jodo Shinshu Shinrankai Buddhist center in Toyama, Japan.

Photos: Tetsuji Yamamoto, Ichimannendo Publishing, Inc.

The Venice Experiment book cover

Photos: News & Experts

In this book, the author shared the story of how he quit the rat race of Florida in the United States to live as a resident of Venice, Italy. He and his wife took a year long journey, a cultural exchange from their lifestyle and expectations, and threw themselves at the mercy of living and being Venetians, experiencing the oddities of being foreigners abroad.

Having visited Venice many years ago and only vaguely remembering taking gondola rides up the Grand Canal, I found myself easily transported to the squares, bridges and streets of Venice and imagining all the characters mentioned in the book, as easily as if they were long lost friends. The Venice Experiment: A year of trial and error living abroad (Savory Adventures Publishing 2011, $14.95), a 238-page book by Barry Frangipane with Ben Robbins, captures the flavors, smells, warmth and frustrations of the year he and his wife spent living in The Floating City. I fell in love with Venice, through the eyes of the author, all over again.

Frangipane navigates the problems he encounters as a foreigner living abroad well. I laughed and moaned at the difficult situations he found himself in, as he and his wife fumbled their way through the narrow corridors of the Italian language, the city’s unique history and diverse personalities.

Barry Frangipane, author, The Venice Experiment

The book provides a concierge service of do’s and don’ts surrounding the legalities of moving to Venice. It became a fun expose of the complexities he experienced with language, assumptions and misinterpretations of cultural norms and, in particular, time management as he wondered at the beginning of their adventure, “Would I learn to see things from their perspective? Given a whole year to figure it out, how hard could it possibly be?”

Overall, I found this book to be an easy read with wonderful references to use and visit should I ever find myself in that part of the world. It is a quaint, funny and informal source of relevant information. The author provides a humorous induction of his move to this city, by cleverly disguising and exposing the red tape that he encountered. I was left with a comprehensive checklist of doable tasks in relation to the transferring of pets, visa requirements, how not to organize a lease for an apartment, the choice of ground floor versus first floor apartments, postal boxes, water taxis, vehicle parking and where to purchase everyday items in unexpected places.

From all of us at Simon & Baker Travel Review and Luxury Travel Review

Squam Lake panorama

I took to the hills this past summer, and discovered one of northern New England’s best-kept secrets. A merciless heat wave had settled over the Boston area like a steamy wet blanket. There was no end in sight. Thoughts of the Lakes Region, in the southern foothills of New Hampshire’s White Mountains, were getting more compelling by the day. I became particularly intrigued by Squam Lake. A large lake (the second largest in New Hampshire), secluded within densely forested shores, a short two-hour drive from my urban Massachusetts home, and I had never heard of it? I was on my way to what became a deliciously relaxing summer break.

The house made famous by the movie On Golden Pond

As I soon found out, the lake has been a favorite retreat from the heat of the cities to the south for wealthy New England families for generations. A number of them built summer homes in the lush hills and shores around the lake as early as the second half of the 19th century. Some of these have remained private homes to this day, while others have become welcoming bed and breakfasts and country inns. One of the latter was the exquisite The Manor on Golden Pond in Holderness (the largest of the villages scattered around the lake), which I had the good fortune to call my home on the lake for this impromptu summer escape.

Loons are a frequent sight on Squam Lake

Nestled among groves of ancient pines and rolling lawns on a slope overlooking the pristine waters of Squam Lake, the property was originally built in 1904 as a summer home for wealthy British businessman Isaac Van Horn. At a time when industrialists were building ever more extravagant summer residences, Van Horn opted for an elegant country manor that reflected his English heritage. Over the past decade, its current owners Brian and Mary Ellen Shields have lovingly restored the graceful stucco and wooden shingles home to its timeless old world elegance, albeit with the latest modern comforts and an intimate gourmet restaurant, the Van Horn Dining Room.

The Manor on Golden Pond

Another revelation was that I had previously heard of Squam Lake, under its Hollywood pseudonym. It was the setting for On Golden Pond, the award-winning 1981 film starring Katherine Hepburn and Henry and Jane Fonda. Little has changed on the tranquil lake in the past three decades, as I was able to ascertain on a memorable morning cruise with Cindy O’Learey, owner of Experience Squam, the only private boating excursion company on the Lake, aboard her slick 23 foot Sea Ray Bow-Rider. Captain Cindy has grown around her beloved lake; first spending her childhood summers there before permanently settling in Holderness with her own family. She was just a girl that summer thirty years ago, but old enough to remember every star studded instant of the filming. She took me past all the sights made famous by the movie. We stopped by the house, gazebo, fishing spots and the “jumping rock.”

Captain Cindy O’Leary at the helm of her speed boat

Children were still shouting with glee as they hurled themselves into the water. We went by a boat dock, “where Jane Fonda did her back flip. And she did on her first try, “ Captain Cindy reminisced. We continued on to “the place where they crashed the boat,” and I got to hear all the details of how it was accomplished. We then left Hollywood memories behind and headed to remote coves where loons fished to feed their young, and juvenile bald eagles were experimenting with the dynamics of flight.

A jumping rock on Squam Lake

A family was picnicking under the trees on one of the lake’s tiny islands, their boat secured on a sandbox-size beach. I regretted that I hadn’t allowed myself enough time to plan for a wilderness lunch. Although it was over too soon, my morning with Captain Cindy remains to my mind the ultimate way to experience Squam Lake. Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review to read more about Squam Lake, my stay at The Manor on Golden Pond and my dinner at the Van Horn Dining Room.

Arcana Izu blends modern architecture with the nearby Kano river

The fusion of East and West began with its name. Arcana is Latin for mysteries. Furthermore, Arcana Izu bills itself as a luxury auberge, and the hotel had a noticeable French influence, exemplified most by its Lumiere restaurant. After my taxi driver pulled into a stony entrance barely visible from a windy, rustic road, it seemed like I had discovered a secret place in the mountains.

High quality Thann body wash, shampoo, and conditioner

How had this mysterious and luxurious inn in Japan come to exist? Three Japanese entrepreneurs collaborated to create it: A French chef, a designer, and a graphic artist. Good design is about making tasteful choices. And almost every detail at the hotel revealed a discriminating eye, starting with its picturesque location near the Kano River.

I was delighted by the chocolate center of this berry treat

I was greeted by name at a large entrance gate, and ushered into River View Suite Number 5. A hotel butler checked me in inside the room itself, as there was no traditional front counter. Besides confirming the details of my stay, my butler briefly explained the amenities of the room and asked my preferred dinner and breakfast times. Another staff member entered the room and served me a welcome treat of bubbling fruit juice, ice-chilled berry, and a cookie.

A view of the Kano River

Check-in completed, I had a chance to consider my room while sipping the welcome drink. I was awestruck by the incredible view before my eyes: tall door-length windows wrapped around the room, showcasing Mount Amagi’s lush forest across and a rushing Kano River below my room.

An instruction card suggested drawing and painting techniques

To the left I spotted Arcana’s hallmark feature, an outdoor private hot spring bath. This bath was connected to my room via the bathroom, which had three sections. My room was the smallest room offered at Arcana Izu, yet I didn’t feel cramped at all; the room was spacious and modern.

From the hot spring bathtub, I could view of my room and the river below

During my stay I felt relaxed and rejuvenated. The staff were friendly, attentive, and easy to communicate with. Soaking in the views of nature from my bath and from my room soothed my city-worn spirits. Staying at Arcana Izu even inspired me, a technology addict, to include more nature-related breaks in my daily life.

Shinjiro Kobayashi, the sommelier, guided me through Arcana Izu’s twelve-page wine menu

Next time, I’ll be sure to bring along someone special to share in the wonderful secrets of this magical ryokan. The total experience, the private bath, the view, the French food, and the excellent service added up to artistry in action, a masterpiece in the mountains called Arcana Izu.

Braised “prahok” with coconut milk at Cuisine Wat Damnak

It was a rainy night in Siem Reap, Cambodia and I was hungry after spending the better part of the day in tourist endeavors. I was scheduled to have dinner with a friend who called Cambodia’s most popular tourist city home. We had narrowed our choices down to two, Italian for a comfort food meal or as my friend put it, “interesting” food at a newly opened gourmet Khmer restaurant owned by Joannès Riviere, the former chef of the Hotel de la Paix in Siem Reap (see Delicious tasting menus at Meric in Siem Reap, Cambodia) for five years and a native of Rhone, France. Italian we could eat anytime. A gourmet Khmer meal, at least for me, was a limited time option since I was leaving the following day. We called Cuisine Wat Damnak and were fortunate to find a table as a large group had booked most of the restaurant that night. The restaurant was named Wat Damnak for the pagoda next to the restaurant and the area where it is located.

Carol Salmon and Joannès Riviere of Cuisine Wat Damnak

“We decided to call it like this in honor of this neighborhood we’ve been living in since we arrived in Cambodia,” said Carole Salmon, a native of Nantes and one of the owners. “It is also a way to indicate where we are since we are a little bit out of the way. Cuisine because it is a French word (and we are French) that either means kitchen, cooking and gastronomy at the same time. Our vision was to create a place entirely dedicated to Cambodian food.”

Steamed Mekong langoustine with rice wine and Kurata pepper

Pan fried wild snakehead fish and eggplant

There were two set menu options with amouse bouche, a four course ($17) and a five course ($24) selection, presented in a four-page printed menu with beverages in the first and last pages and the set menus in the middle. There were four types of cocktails, a variety of spirits and aperitifs, Cambodian, Asian and European beer options, soft drinks, mineral water, two types of cider and a selection of red, white and rosé wines from Argentina, Australia, Chile, France, New Zealand, and South Africa.

Free range chicken and grilled garlic sour soup

We both chose the five course menus: Siem reap sausage and cucumber salad with dry shrimp and chili; Steamed Mekong langoustine with rice wine and Kurata pepper; Free range chicken and grilled garlic sour soup with purple yam and wild mushrooms; Braised “prahok” with coconut milk; pan fried wild snakehead fish and eggplant, and Chocolate and wild cardamon light ganache, cashew nut praliné and puffed rice. We shared a bottle of red wine to accompany the meal.

Dinner in the air conditioned and colorful restaurant was very good. Staff were friendly and helpful and the set menu was satisfying. There were enough exotic ingredients to make it fun without any seriously challenging flavors. It was one of my favorite meals during my 10 day visit to Cambodia.

Chocolate and wild cardamon light ganache, cashew nut praliné and puffed rice

At the end when all the guests were gone Chef Riviere and Salmon, the owners, joined us briefly for a drink. The chef had learned to cook with his father who was a chef and an organic vegetable farmer and his grandmother who graduated from the Cordon Bleu cooking school in the 1950s. The young couple from France had recently had a baby and opened their new restaurant almost at the same time. Cuisine Wat Damnak restaurant (Siem Reap, Kingdom of Cambodia +855 (0) 63 965 491, www.cuisinewatdamnak.com, info@cuisinewatdamnak.com).

A refined dinner at Raffles Hotel Le Royal

The food I sampled in Cambodia was surprisingly flavorful and, in some cases, refined. In Phnom Penh, the capital city, the restaurants at Raffles Hotel Le Royal, my hotel, were good and quite convenient. I was particularly impressed with Le Royal the hotel’s fine dining restaurant which was managed by Christoph Sclatter, a Swiss executive with exacting expectations and great enthusiasm. My dinner on a quiet night was a blend of recreated traditional Khmer dishes from the royal household and western dishes like tuna tartare and crepes suzette prepared table side.

Crepes for dessert at Raffles Hotel Le Royal

A nice chicken mayonnaise amouse bouche was the first eatable item to arrive at my table. In addition to the tuna, which was served with a full compliment of condiments, I sampled the Duck consomme with Takoe River lobster won tons; Takoe River lobster with coconut milk and red curry (mild at my request); and a delicate and perfectly cooked Black cod with fish eggs and Madagascar vanilla sauce.

Khmer Kitchen, a family owned restaurant in central Siem Reap

My favorite dish at Khmer Kitchen

The owners of Khmer Kitchen

I spent twice as much time in Siem Reap as I did in the capital. The extra time afforded me the opportunity to dine at several places. Khmer Kitchen, a family owned restaurant founded by Perk Sophalon, on Pup Street in the heart of the tourist area of the city, served tasty Khmer dishes including the traditional Amok with fish. Their recipe was savory and flavorful. While I’m no expert in Khmer dishes, it was my favorite Amok dish. I also enjoyed their fruit juice. Started in 2000 with four tables the popular restaurant had grown to two locations 200 meters apart. Khmer Kitchen Restaurant & Khmer Kitchen Restaurant BBQ (#203 Group 6 Khum Svay Dang Kum, Siem Reap Kingdom of Cambodia, +855 63 964154, 855 77688677, info@khmerkitchens.com, www.khmerkitchens.com).

The owners of The Sugar Palm Restaurant & Bar, an open air restaurant in a two-story building

Crispy rolls at The Sugar Palm

On another rainy night I visited the Sugar Palm Restaurant and Bar, owned by Bruce and Kethana Dunnet who had moved to Siem Reap from New Zealand (Kethana was originally from Cambodia). The open air restaurant was on the upstairs of a two story building with indoor and terrace seating, high ceilings and fans to cool guests. There was artwork for sale on the walls and Cambodian music played in the background. I liked the crispy rolls made with fine noodles and served with julienne of green papaya and sweet sauce; the minced pork eggplant had a smokey sweet delicious flavor.

The only down side was finding a tuk tuk (covered bicycle for hire commonly used in Siem Reap) to take me back to my hotel. After a long wait, about 40 minutes, two showed up but refused to take me because they didn’t know where my hotel was located. In the end, the kind server offered me a ride on his motorbike. By then the rain had become a drizzle and I gladly accepted. Sugar Palm Restaurant & Bar (Taphul Road, Siem Reap, Kingdom of Cambodia, +855 63 964 838).

When I headed for the verdant shores of Squam Lake on a recent summer road trip, my main purpose was to escape for a few days in the southern foothills of New Hampshire’s White Mountains the brutal heat wave that had been roasting New England for the previous couple of weeks. I hadn’t given much thought to food, and since it was my first visit to the area, I figured I would have to rely on word-of-mouth, sometimes a hit-or-miss proposition. This time was definitely a hit. My local hosts pointed me to some exciting eateries that in and of themselves would have justified my visit to the area.

The Corner House Inn in Center Sandwich

Although they differed widely in cuisine and atmosphere, my favorites turned out to have some significant commonalities: all were chef-owned, with unpretentious menus based on high-quality locally-gown organic products. And all were reasonably priced to boot.

The Corner House Inn

The Corner House Inn is located in a former inn

Built in 1849, the “house on the corner” managed to survive the Civil War and some major town fires to become the foremost eatery and boarding house in Sandwich. Current owners Don and Jane Brown acquired the property in 1981. Over the next two decades, Chef Brown’s cuisine drew an ever-larger following and one by one, the guest rooms were converted into dining space. I especially enjoyed the historic house surrounding and the room-sized dining areas that made for an intimate, casual atmosphere.

Chicken Rosa is a favorite dish at the Corner House Inn

I found it hard to get past the appetizer offerings. Should I have the lobster bisque (one of the Inn’s signature dishes) or the fried oysters with their aioli dipping sauce? But then, what of the crab cakes, and the intriguing sweet-potato polenta in roasted red pepper and orange ginger sauce? Mercifully, my understanding server arranged for a sampler of all. My espresso-cup size lobster bisque had enough bouquet to fill a bowl, and nuggets of fresh lobster aplenty. Each appetizer was beautifully executed and delicious. I especially enjoyed the oysters, each a soft morsel that had retained a hint of briny ocean taste within its crisp golden crust. Having also succumbed to the fragrant home baked bread and the delicate field greens salad with its light buttermilk-dill dressing, I felt already satiated. But there was still the imaginative Chicken Rosa, in a creamy white wine sauce, served on fresh vegetable ravioli. I could manage only a few bites. I was saving myself for the chocolate ganache terrine, served with a dollop of white chocolate mousse, and was glad I did. The Corner House Inn (15 Oak Street, Center Sandwich, New Hampshire, + 1 603 284 6219, http://www.cornerhouseinn.com/, info@cornerhouseinn.com)

Squam Lake Inn Café

Although the surroundings were decidedly New Hampshire, with a big red barn turned gift shop at the edge of the Inn’s parking lot and Walter’s Basin, Holderness’ main harbor, a short walk away, the atmosphere of the Squam Lake Inn Café channeled Napa Valley to me. On the deck, tables were neatly lined under two rows of green market umbrellas for al fresco dining, while inside, the light-filled dining room had the uncluttered charm of a garden porch. The menu, changed daily to take advantage of the best seasonal offerings from local organic farmers and freshly caught sustainable seafood, reinforced the impression. And in addition to the meat and fish dishes, the Café featured a number of tempting vegetarian options.

The Squam Lake Inn Café has scrumptious crab cakes

The wine list focused mainly on California wines, rounded with a few interesting foreign labels. The emphasis was on artisan wines from small production vineyards that favored sustainable farming. I was not overly surprised to discover in the course of the evening that the owners, Rea and Cindy, had relocated from Orange Country, California, when they purchased the Inn in 2003. Rea and daughter Taylor officiated in the kitchen while Cindy managed the dining room.

Glazed scallops at the Squam Lake Inn Café

I have a special fondness for fresh crab cakes, which I order at every opportunity. The ones served as my appetizer were exceptional. Two delicately seasoned patties of the freshest crabmeat, pan seared to a light gold, served with a tangy remoulade sauce. Perfection in simplicity. My dinner companion’s appetizer, a crisp mesclun salad with red onions, sliced almonds and crumbs of feta cheese, glistening with a light poppy seed dressing and garnished with slices of ripe peaches was another fine example of Chef Rea’s fresh and simple approach. My entrée of seared and lightly glazed scallops was served over sautéed baby spinach and grape tomatoes with just a hint of chopped mango. Light and satisfying, just right for a hot summer’s evening, as was my friend’s roasted portobello caps layered with artisan Vermont goat cheese, sliced tomato and basil, drizzled with a balsamic reduction. We finished our meal with a fruity wild strawberry sorbet and an ice cream sandwich of molasses spice cookie and ginger ice cream respectively. Squam Lake Inn Café (28 Shepard Hill Road, Holderness, New Hampshire, +1 603 968 4417, http://www.squamlakeinn.com/dining.html, stay@squamlakeinn.com)

Coyote Grill

Although not located in the immediate vicinity of Squam Lake, the Coyote Grill was warmly recommended to us and proved well worth the 30-minute drive to the nearby mountain sports resort of Waterville Valley. Chef Sean Stout, a graduate from Johnson and Wales Culinary Institute in Providence, Rhode Island, honed his skills in several fine restaurants around New England before he and his wife Barbara opened the Coyote Grill almost two decades ago. Chef Stout relied on local sources for his meats, fish, dairy products and produce. He developed menus that varied with seasonal availability and created his own recipes, adding an original twist to New England favorites.

Coyote Grill sole and grilled asparagus

I especially enjoyed my appetizer, a terrine of summer vegetables that would have been at home in a ratatouille Niçoise, but had been thinly sliced, stacked and baked with goat cheese, then served cold on a balsamic glaze. Meanwhile, my friend’s simple sliced heirloom tomatoes and fresh mozzarella took on a new dimension with its roasted garlic and fresh basil dressing. After several days of eating our way round the area, we fancied a somewhat light fare. My main course of pan-fried filets of sole drizzled with a tangy lemon butter sauce and served with grilled asparagus and yellow peppers was delicious, as was my friend’s grilled chicken breast on a pinwheel of finely diced vegetable rolled in a tortilla, also served with grilled asparagus. My desert was a gourmet take on the traditional strawberry shortcake, a fluffy genoise layered with pureed fresh strawberries and whipped cream; a lovely, light ending to an enjoyable summer’s meal. Coyote Grill (98 Valley Road, Waterville Valley, New Hampshire, +1 603 236 4919, http://www.wildcoyotegrill.com/, wcg@skisat.net)

Coyote Grill vegetable terrine appetizer

Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review to read more about Squam Lake and my stay at The Manor on Golden Pond