The entrance to Fairlawns

Tucked within a high end neighborhood in South Africa’s busy metropolis the Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa offered a myriad amenities desirable to tired travelers like us. While we were familiar with several airport hotels which were more convenient the pretty grounds and luxury features of the Fairlawns appealed to us. As I sat on the grueling 15-hour flight from Atlanta, Georgia to Johannesburg, South Africa I dreamed of the comfortable bed, spacious bathroom with a shower and bathtub, quiet ambiance, and room service I would enjoy on arrival. We had stayed at the property previously and were confident it would serve our needs on this brief one night visit (see Pretty Johannesburg boutique hotel, spa in quiet residential neighborhood).

The Villa Suites building

We requested an airport pick up in advance to avoid the hassle of a car rental since we planned to be in the city less than one day. As we exited the busy arrivals hall at the airport I spotted our driver easily. We rode in air conditioned comfort into the city and less than an hour later we had settled into our accommodations for the night at the 40-room four acre hotel with 60 staff. Although the hotel restaurant and its new chef were a draw after so many hours of travel what I yearned for was a simple salad or sandwich while sitting comfortably in my bathrobe following a decadently hot shower or luxuriant bath.

A view of the restaurant at night

The Toulouse Suite, Suite 39 in the Villa Suites building, delivered all that I had longed for on the flight and more. It was the first time we stayed at the Villas Suites, the newest of the buildings at the property, built behind and to the right of reception before the much anticipated 2010 World Cup.

The Toulouse Suite

Our Deluxe Suite had the varied decorative touches and many luxury amenities we had liked in the past such as embroidered linen, stocked mini bar, and fruit plates. The 82 square meter room, one floor up from the ground floor via an elevator or a spiral staircase, was kept at a comfortable temperature with individually controlled air conditioning (and underfloor heating in the winter months).

The bathroom was large with tub and shower

It was furnished with two double beds resting against off white fabric headboards and topped with a crisp white duvet with the Fairlawns logo. Although the room had an unremarkable view to a service walkway on the side of the building it was blissfully quiet, the most attractive feature for us the night we arrived. Double curtains covered the windows, providing privacy at night and shade from the fierce daytime sun. Antique style wood and marble top tables with matching glass bottomed lamps served as night tables. To one side there was an antique style wood desk with a beige stool where we set our computer and electronics during our stay.

A comfortable seat and snacks

On the floor a putty colored carpet felt soft against our tired stockinged feet. Should we wish to make a call there were handheld wireless and regular phones. While we waited for room service to deliver our dinner order we sampled the fruit plate and a plate with mixed nuts and tasty biltong (South Africa dried beef) courtesy of the hotel. In the mini refrigerator there was complimentary cold still mineral water, juice and two dried mango snacks.

A view of the room from the corner next to the bathroom

In front of the bed, on the right side of the single ambiance room, there was a putty colored sofa atop a white rug facing a glass topped wood coffee table. Across from the table was an entertainment section with a Hi Sense flat screen television in the center and the mini bar to the lower right. Antique framed silk birds and landscapes adorned the walls and in the center, an elaborate chandelier with a porcelain flower motif hung from the ceiling. There was a stand alone wood armoire where we hung some of our clothes after the bell hop set our suitcases on the large luggage rack near the entrance.

The Villa featured pretty common areas

The next morning we awoke refreshed and ready to face the day. There was complimentary coffee and tea service on the first floor across from our suite. After checking emails with the complimentary WiFi services I headed to the spa for a work out (there was a spacious fitness section with treadmills, exercise machines and free weights within the spa building, I remembered from past visits). Next we enjoyed the lovely breakfast buffet and hot made to order options. On the long table, covered with a cloth to keep the flies off, there were fresh fruit plates, breads and pastries, jams, yogurt, cheese, salmon, and deli meats. The staff were friendly and attentive.

The pool area at Fairlawns

From our window side table we had an expansive view of the central lawn and pool area. I felt like I could have stayed there the whole morning. Instead I donned by bathing suit and lounged poolside for the better part of an hour. I even managed a swim in the chilly water. While chatting with a fellow guest one of the staff from breakfast walked down to check on us, politely offering beverages and snacks. We had both had our fill at breakfast and declined.

The dining room at breakfast looking out over the property

While I was at the pool a kind staff person ironed my linen clothes and by the time we left I looked rested and presentable, a concept that was hard to imagine while I was breathing stale air on the airplane less than 24 hours earlier. That rested state is one of the reasons the Fairlawns Boutique Hotel and Spa (91 Alma Road, off Bowling Avenue, Morningside, Gallo Manor, Sandton 2052, Johannesburg, South Africa, +27 11 804 2540/1/2/3, +27 11 808 7300 or +27 73 481 7734, http://www.fairlawns.co.za/, fairlawn@fairlawns.co.za) remains on our list of favorite boutique hotels in Johannesburg.

The Saba Tourist Bureau

I loved Saba, a small Dutch Caribbean island, for its unspoiled and picturesque character. What this volcanic Leeward Island lacked in size it made up for in beauty, natural features and sheer determination. For example, the islanders were told by experts in Holland early last century that it was not possible to build a road due to the steep incline of the mountains. Refusing to accept that ruling one man took a correspondence course and with the help of his fellow islanders built the beginning of what today is called simply The Road.

A plaque to Josephus Lambert Hassell, engineer of the road

With a population of less than 1,500 and diminutive (it occupies five square miles), the tourist attractions were mainly scenic, we expected before visiting the island. Cars were scarce in Saba. We had a few hours to see what we could while our ship, the SeaDream I, stopped there and we intended to make the most of it. With a little help from the crew we were able to find a taxi, the only one available that day apparently. The driver, a friendly Irishman who had relocated to Saba only a few months earlier with his van (the windows in the rear of the van did not open we later discovered with disappointment), explained that he would be pleased to show us around the island if we were willing to share space and wait for him.

Saba in the foreground and remote islands on the horizon

Six of us shared the van up the narrow and steep roads. He dropped two of our group at the entrance to a hiking trail (they reported having a wonderful time later when we met up aboard the ship) before leaving us in The Bottom, the island’s main urban area. He would take care of local customers (many of the medical school students were going on vacation and there was a wedding the next day) who had booked his services already and return for us about 90 minutes later.

We stopped at this church with a view

When he returned he had a glass of fresh made fruit juice with us before the four of us climbed into his van to see the sights. Minutes later we felt transported back in time when we stopped at a small church with a million dollar view. Although the church was closed there was a kind lady running a simple small cash only shop behind the church. She sold handmade lace in the tradition and style of Saba, a dying art, our driver shared as we departed having bought one of the treasured lace pieces.

The tiny Saba airport

From there we drove downhill toward the waterfront island airport. On our way back our driver showed us the house he rented as we drove by it on way back toward The Bottom and the dock where we had arrived.

Cute little houses and flowers dotted the hills

Earlier while we waited for our guide and driver to return we had made our way around the hilly village, picking up tips and information at the tourist office where a friendly staff person welcomed us, passing a cafe and small indoor market and walking up a steep hill toward JoBean Glass unsure if it was open for business. Our efforts were rewarded when we arrived at the un-airconditioned shop and found it open. A shy young lady inside said we were welcome to browse around at our leisure. Every surface, every corner of the shop was filled with glass items, many made from Venetian glass, we later found out from the friendly owner who popped by for a few minutes.

JoBean Chambers demonstrating a technique to fashion colorful glass jewelry

JoBean Chambers, a lively and vivacious American woman who had lived and worked on the island for many years, showed us the glass pieces she was making for the wedding we had heard about, and gave us a brief glass making demonstration. Watching her flame work the thin and colorful glass tubes it seemed easy to create pretty seahorses, turtles, frogs, fish, mermaids, dive flags, starfish and other attractive shapes. She would heat and swirl the glass quickly and easily (for her), then attach another piece of glass in a different color to the incipient shape, adjusting the width and style along the way. In moments we could distinguish a multicolored frog and after that a mermaid. It was hard to imagine the glass melts at temperatures of more than 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit.

Many of her glass creations were sea creatures

A fan of hot glass since 1989 she had learned her skills, in part at El Vetro in Venice, Italy where she studied, according to her website, with Lucio Bubacco and Vittorio Constantini. Her work was exhibited in art galleries in the United States and the Caribbean, including the Corning Museum Shop. She offered glass workshops in her hillside studio for up to five students at a time. Next time we visit Saba maybe we will take one of her workshops.

Our visit to Saba was a special treat and one of my fondest memories from our week long Caribbean cruise. This was in part because of the pretty hillside houses in the small towns, the old style lace sold behind the church, our shared taxi tour and fun stop at JoBean Glass Art Studio (Booby Hill, Windwardside Saba, Dutch West Indies,+ 599 416 2490,www.jobeanglassart.com, jobean@jobeanglassart.com).

The entrance to Eataly from 23 street

Eataly was the perfect combination of old-world European market and true Manhattan glamour. Centrally located on 23 Street, one of the main cross-town routes in New York City, it was easy to get to and fun to visit. I went with friends on a Saturday afternoon in October, a popular time to go, and again in March. It seemed to me that locals and tourists were visiting Eataly.

An example of the signage scattered throughout Eataly

When I walked in I noticed two things, an exquisite selection of produce and a huge crowd. I admit that I panicked, but only momentarily. After marveling at the orange chanterelle mushrooms, baby purple artichokes, and tiny rock-like potatoes, I made my way into the main part of the market.

The produce display near Eataly’s main entrance

The entire place was over 50,000 square feet (4,600 square meters) with high ceilings and pools of light. There were marble tables, white walls, stainless steel shelves and an abundance of food. The market sections had packaged pastas, sauces, olives, meats, sweets and many imported items. There was a Gelateria (Italian ice cream section), an espresso bar, a chocolate counter, a fishmonger, a butcher, and a bookshop. It was a bit overwhelming, but after I took some time to wander around I got the lay of the land.

One of the pasta aisles in the market

There were six restaurants, each one focusing on one type of food. Il Manza (reservations were required for this one), Il Pesce (Italian for the fish), Le Verdure (Italian for vegetables), Birreria (Italian for the beer place), La Piazza (The Plaza, selling sandwiches and charcuterie products) and La Pizza & La Pasta. We found a spot at the bar at Il Pesce where we had a direct view into the kitchen.

Macelleria, where you can buy fresh red meat

To start we ordered a raw fish selection that included sea bass and tuna topped with tiny roe and a citrus glaze. It was better than my favorite sushi restaurant. Next was a whole branzino (a silver-skinned fish found in European sea and saltwater lakes) prepared simply on a salty bed of paper-thin potatoes. We also ordered grilled scallops in a lemon and butter sauce served in a large seashell. On the side we had a bed of sautéed, garlicky mustard greens. The fish was fresh and flavorful, and each dish complemented the other. The service was fast and friendly and we had a great time watching the chefs prepare each plate.

Rounds of cheese stored near the wine bar

Next, we toured the market. On some days Eataly offered classes. I planned to check the website’s Learn section for a schedule of upcoming programs. In the past, topics have ranged from olive oil tastings to cooking classes, to history of Italian Cuisine with prices between $60 and $275.

The antique-style espresso machine made a delicious cappuccino!

That day there was a free grappa tasting so we tasted a few sweet liquors like Strega and Limoncello. Next we made our way to the espresso bar where coffee was served from an antique-style machine. Of course, we also had to try the Gelateria and helped ourselves to a raspberry and chocolate double-scoop; when I closed my eyes I thought we were eating a real raspberry.

Overall, Eataly appeared to me to be a food-lover’s paradise. Offerings the day I was there were high quality, exotic, fun and well organized. Staff served the food quickly. We paid the kind of high prices we have paid at upscale Manhattan food shops.

Mushrooms, artichokes and dried peppers in the produce section

Eataly was founded and created by Oscar Farinetti, an Italian entrepreneur. His partners included Mario Batali and Lidia Bastianich, celebrity chef and restaurateur respectively, as well as Joe Bastianich, a restaurateur and Lidia’s son. I liked that Eataly partnered with Slow Food, a nonprofit organization founded to counteract fast food and fast life.

The store offers many imported goods such as these pasta sauces

I will return because I had so much fun exploring the whole place and I would like to try the other restaurants. If I were in the neighborhood, I might stop in just for a scoop of gelato at Eataly NYC (200 5th Avenue, New York City, (212)229-3560, info@eataly.com, www.eatalyny.com).

Hoatzin birds were a frequent sight near the lodge

“Stop, stop!” I sputter, too excited to keep my voice down. Fabian, the local park ranger who is paddling, doesn’t speak English but he gets the idea and brings the canoe to a smooth halt. Roberto, my Ecuadorian guide who speaks English fluently, looks at me askance. He has just pointed out a large bird perched in the dense jumble of rainforest. It looks like a chicken with too much turquoise eye shadow and a bad hair day. “The bird,” I exclaim. “Yes, it’s a hoatzin,” he reiterates matter-of-factly. He clearly fails to grasp the importance of the moment. So does the bird, which has by now been joined by two of its friends. They are engaged in a croaky argument while heartily tucking into the foliage. I feel compelled to explain that on a previous Amazon visit, a thousand miles downriver from here, I had once spent a whole week, including a half-day hike in the waterlogged underbrush, in search of a hoatzin. And I had only managed to hear its distinctive cry and ponderous take off as it vanished into the forest canopy. “We have lots of hoatzins here,” Roberto assures me after I have photographed these to my heart’s content, and for good measure a rare rufescent-tiger heron that has been observing the proceedings from a nearby stump.

The king size bed was draped in mosquito netting

We resume our slow way upstream under an arch of tangled mangroves and palms, along the narrow channel that connects the Napo River, one of the most important tributaries of the Amazon, to Anangucocha Lake. We are in the heart of 21,400 hectares (82 square miles) of conservation land located on the ancestral territory of the Kichwa Anangu community, in the northwest corner of Ecuador’s Yasuni National Park. The park is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve regarded by scientists as one of the most bio-diverse areas on the planet. Several notable sightings later, including a tree-toed sloth and my first ever monk saki monkey, we reach the lake. On its far side, the shore is dotted with the thatched-roofed, bright ocher adobe bungalows of the Napo Wildlife Center luxury eco-lodge.

My bungalow had a shaded terrace overlooking the lake

Set into some of the most pristine rainforest environment I have ever visited, the lodge is designed to meet the high expectations of international tourists for wilderness accommodations. It features attractive bungalows with private terraces overlooking the lake, modern bathrooms, round the clock electricity and WiFi connection throughout the property. Strategically located observation towers at the lodge and in the forest offer a unique perspective of the abundant wildlife around the lake and above the forest canopy. My wildlife viewing is exceptional, not only for its abundance and variety but because of the excellence of the guiding. At the lodge, guides come in pairs: a bilingual, state-licensed guide and a native Yasuni Park-licensed ranger who also acts as a local guide, sharing his knowledge of plants, medicinal plants and Kichwa traditions. One evening, they take me on a nighttime canoe ride in the swamps near the lodge, with a special spotlight to view nocturnal creatures.

Coffee was served around the clock in the main hall

Beyond the excellence of accommodations and wildlife viewing opportunities, a highpoint of my visit is the opportunity to observe first hand the positive impact of the Napo Wildlife Center on the daily life of the Anangu people. The lodge and conservation land are wholly owned and managed by the Kichwa Anangu community. They are the keystones of a far-reaching program to improve the quality of life of the people and preserve the integrity of their ancestral territory and culture while providing them with sustainable employment. Most of the staff comes from the community. Their pride in the Napo Wildlife Center is palpable, and translates into warm and attentive service. Additionally, while the life of the community is separated from tourism activities, one hour downstream from the lodge, I see women welcome guests to the Interpretation Center facility adjacent to their village. It is especially rewarding to be able to connect with them (with Roberto as interpreter) as they introduce me to the tasks of their daily lives as well as their traditional Kichwa crafts and dances.

An Amazon forest dragon

I am gratified to hear of the rigorous sustainable tourism practices implemented by the Napo Wildlife Center program. Profits are reinvested within the community, with education and healthcare as major priorities. The center also returns a share of the annual profits to each family and provides a stipend to the elderly. To limit the lodge’s impact on its environment, it has implemented an environmentally sustainable sewage system, with waste waters treated to high standards before being released into the swamps. Trash is kept to a minimum and composted whenever possible. What is safe to burn is burned and buried, with the remainder transported to designated landfills outside the park. And these practices have been extended to the Anangu community at large, for a cleaner, healthier living environment.

A striated heron

The Napo Wildlife Center is also engaged in a strong anti-poaching program, with its conservation land patrolled by community rangers employed and equipped by the lodge. The Napo Wildlife Center was recognized in 2009 with the Rainforest Alliance Community Sustainable Trend Setter Award, and the Best Jungle Lodge Award from the Latin American Travel Association at the World Travel Market in London, U.K. And it is becoming a model for other sustainable tourism community projects throughout Ecuador.

The banks of the Napo River were a tangle of dense rainforest

And by the way, Roberto was right. We came across so many hoatzins during my four-day visit that by the time I left, I barely spared them a glance. Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review to read more about my stay at the Napo Wildlife Center.

The SeaDream I

Last December we spent a week aboard the SeaDream I making our way between small Caribbean islands. As with the European SeaDream II voyage we took in the past what we liked most was the intimate ambiance, gourmet offerings and service orientation of the all-inclusive luxury voyage.

A great spot for morning coffee near the Top of the Yacht bar

We were half full with 54 passengers and nearly a full crew compliment of 94 aboard the 344 feet long vessel with a 47 foot beam. Although our ship was small and offered a limited variety of entertainment options compared to the mega cruise ships with scores of decks, multiple restaurants and facilities and thousands of passengers and crew that now pepper the oceans it was the perfect size for a small group such as ours. While there were fewer activities than aboard larger vessels there were enough options to meet our desires. We were pleased to relax and meet some of the other passengers at happy hour, meal times and between shore excursions.

Our cabin on the SeaDream I

One of the hallmarks of SeaDream is service. When we arrived at the dock on our way to the ship, as we were exiting our taxi, an energetic young man from the ship, in uniform, approached us and introduced himself purposefully. He immediately coordinated the delivery of our luggage and escorted us through the security point. That kind of friendly and efficient service was repeated on board. That first impression set the tone for the remainder of the trip.

Welcoming bubbly on ice

The size of the group and ship offered myriad advantages we enjoyed. Aboard the ship there were never crowds, lines or reservations necessary for meals. Staff and even fellow guests could often easily recognize each other. Nearly all the staff we encountered greeted us and other guests by our names during that week.

On the beach in Anguilla

At anchor we were often the only large vessel at the places, several of them off-the-beaten-path islands, we visited. As we walked along the beach in Sandy Ground, Anguilla a local couple we spoke with commented that it was rare to see ships in that area. In Saba, we heard from the crew and the locals that often inclement weather prevented access to the island and few large ships stopped there. Although the weather had been dubious at times Lady Luck smiled upon us that day, making it possible for us to explore the tiny and picturesque Dutch island.

The SeaDream I tender heading out to the yacht

Another benefit we appreciated were the speedy and comfortable shore transfers within covered tenders. We became aware of the difference when observing fellow passengers from a similar ship embarking and disembarking, partly wet, from their ship’s dinghy when we went ashore completely dry and in the superior shelter and comfort of our small water craft.

Grilled lobster tail on a bed of vegetables

What we noticed and many experienced cruise aficionados in our group shared with us was how special the meals were aboard SeaDream I. Food, as is common aboard cruises, was abundant. Meals, often plated and prepared a la minute, were outstanding. Gilles de Cambourg, executive chef, Ferenc Béres Molnar, pastry chef, Pablo Raschetti, sommelier, and the dining service staff went the extra mile to ensure our meals were delicious and well served, every time. There was even a celebrity chef from the United Kingdom, Levi Root, spicing things up aboard that week. The quality standards extended to room service meals. Twice we ordered from the in-room dining menu; both times the dishes were well prepared, well presented and served within minutes of our order.

A favorite breakfast and lunch dining spot

We will keep Sea Dream yachts at the top of our list for luxury, laid back, all-inclusive, service and gourmet oriented intimate sea voyages and recommend them to friends who share our appreciation for cozy luxury voyages. Click here to read more about our week in the Caribbean aboard SeaDream I.

The entrance to One Flew South in Terminal E, Atlanta airport

I asked John from Missouri, our server, what he would order if it was up to him and he said one of each item on the menu. I knew we had to narrow it down from there and keep it light as we were facing a five hour layover before boarding a 15-hour flight to Johannesburg, South Africa. A few minutes later we settled on Pork Belly Sliders (two in a shared order), Cauliflower and Parsnip Soup, Seaweed Salad, Benton’s Bacon “BLT” and a Salmon Hot Pot from the mains. That turned out to be a lot of desirable food. We washed that down with glass bottles of Saratoga Springs still water and iced tea. We liked that John brought a carafe (and refilled it during our meal) with extra iced tea and a glass with large ice cubes so the iced tea was always plentiful and chilled.

The BLT with emphasis on the bacon

While we waited for our order to arrive I looked more closely at the uncrowded restaurant. We sat in the back of the room at a small table with a stone top and a gray runner in the middle on metal and white cushioned half back chairs. One side of the room faced the main area of Concourse E of the Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, one of the busiest concourses in one of the busiest airports in the nation. Although it was possible to see the concourse through wood slats for a brief while we forgot we were at an airport.

The Seaweed Salad

One wall was papered with a forest motif. Modern urban music played in the background and although we arrived in between meal times a few guests were scattered around the restaurant and sushi bar. It had been crowded earlier, our server told us. One man sat against the window with a chilled bottle of wine and his laptop. A woman with a British accent sat facing away from us toward the restaurant entrance. In the corner a man ate while he spoke on his cell phone. At the nearest table there was a couple.

Pork Belly Sliders were decadent and tasty

The first items to arrive were the sliders and the soup. As John set the soup, in a white soup bowl atop a matching square base, before me the scents of cauliflower and paprika wafted to my nose. A swirl of paprika oil and a handful of crunchy pumpkin seeds perked up the subdued cauliflower color of the soup. It was just the right temperature and the flavor combination worked. My lunch partner’s eyes sang with joy when he bit into the pork belly slider. When my turn arrived I too was delighted. The slider was outstanding. The flavorful bun had just the right texture and tasted homemade. The pork belly was alternately crunchy and soft and the sweet barbeque sauce rounded everything together, dripping gently onto the plate. Crispy sweet potato shavings served as tasty garnish and a sweet gherkin was attached to each slider with a natural toothpick.

The salmon resting on its rice island in the miso soup

The BLT sandwich and salmon arrived next. The salmon itself was tender, perfectly cooked and delicious. It sat on a rice bed with tofu, vegetables and miso soup. The base of the salmon dish won over one fan at the table. The bacon part of the Bacon, Lettuce and Tomato Sandwich was king. Our server told us the chef makes his own bacon; and it was delicious. The sandwich, garnished with shredded lettuce and small slices of tomato, had a strong smoky bacon flavor. The focaccia bread was a match for the contents and a truffle mayonnaise took the bacon flavor to the next level. Thin five flavor French fries in a bowl picked up any hunger slack. Yum.

The “OFS” Banana Pudding

I didn’t think I could eat any more until I tasted the “OFS” Banana Pudding that John confidently recommended when we asked about dessert. Fresh whipped cream (with a real homemade texture and taste) with crunchy sweet crumbles made up the top layer. Below the cream there were layers of fragrant and creamy banana pudding. It was just what we needed to complete the meal.

The sushi bar set next to a wall of the restaurant

The food alone was worth a return visit. Hats off to Executive Chef Duane Nutter and his staff. The setting and the service complimented the meal well. We had hoped to stopped at the restaurant on our way back home but we barely managed to make our connection. Should we find ourselves with enough time for a meal while connecting flights in Atlanta in the future we will return at the first opportunity. An 18 percent gratuity, the menu indicated, was automatically included in the bill. John earned his and then some. One Flew South (Concourse E, Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, Atlanta, Georgia, +1 404 816-3464, fax +1 404 816-3467, www.oneflewsouthatl.com).

Swaraj Kumar Banerjee, the owner of the Makaibari Tea Estate

The highlight of our one night stay in northeastern India’s famed Darjeeling tea growing area was a tea tasting with Swaraj Kumar Banerjee, the owner of the Makaibari Tea Estate (Kurseong 734203, District Darjeeling, West Bengal, +00 91 33 22878560, fax +00 91 33 22870695, www.makaibari.com, slg_rajah@sancharnet.in). The estate, 573 hectares large with 250 hectares under tea and the remainder under forests, had a total population of 1,549 between newborn to 91 years of age including 656 workers. Makaibari means cornfield.

Tea for shipment

During our visit we had an opportunity to stroll in the organic tea plantation, meet some of the members of the community, visit the factory (because it was a national holiday it was closed), hear a presentation by Banerjee about the biodynamic principals used on the estate and sample some of the teas with his guidance. The Makaibari Estate produced six varieties of premium teas: Silver Tips Imperial, white tea, silver green, oolongs, first flush vintage and muscatel second flush.

Makaibari tea leaves

Samples of tea

Although most of the tea production in the area, we were told, is in the hands of large producers and multinational companies, Makaibari remains a family owned affair in continuous operation since 1859. More importantly, for some, the estate owners today strive to set the standard for organic production and responsible tourism practices in the region.

The tea tasting area

The tasting took place in an upstairs area adjacent to a conference room and the owner’s office. The tasting room, hot even before the first sip of tea, was filled with tea displays and memorabilia. We were each supplied with a spoon and instructed on how to taste the tea. The process included sipping a spoon full of tea, swirling the tea in our mouths and breathing through our mouths to enhance the flavor prior to spitting it out in a corner sink, one at a time. For each tea we completed this process while circling around the room toward a row of teacups set atop a shelf.

Silver Tips

Among the teas was the Silver Tips Imperial notable because it is collected under the full moon. Priced at $1,600 per kilo it is reputedly the most expensive tea in the world. This was the only tea in the tasting we swallowed rather than spitting it out in the sink. It was surprisingly subtle. At the conclusion of the tasting we were invited to a guided walk through the organic tea plantation.

A view of the Makaibari building from the road

Makaibari tea fields

Before departing I stopped at the tiny shop to buy two small bags to share and remember my experience. Now every time I have a cup it reminds me of the Makaibari Tea and Raja Banerjee, as the staff call him, the Raja of Darjeeling Organic Tea.

The entrance to Dwarikas

To reach Nepal from the United States east coast I traveled many hours with several stops along the way. When I arrived, the sweltering Kathmandu airport seemed chaotic and on exiting I, at first, missed my guide in the sea of unfamiliar faces. Narrow city streets shared by all manner of vehicles honking intermittently and livestock provided my first impression. I was excited to have secured accommodations at my first choice of the bustling city’s luxury hotels. For my arrival day the hotel had been fully booked until a last minute opening made it possible to secure a reservation for my entire stay in Kathmandu.

My first room had a view of the pool

My bathtub at Dwarikas

In my sleep deprived and jet lagged state little enthusiasm to explore remained and I desperately wished for a clean and quiet place to call my own, at least for a few hours. That was not to be the case, at least not right away, as my room was not ready, literally. Workmen were putting the finishing touches on the newly constructed room (and building) assigned to me at Dwarika’s Hotel. One of the staff was kind enough to notice that I was tired and offered a temporary solution, a room where I could rest for 90 minutes until mine became available at 6 p.m.

Fountains in a courtyard of the hotel

My rooms (I stayed at two rooms. At the staff’s suggestion I was relocated from my original room after the first night due to the loud sounds of construction in my building) were handsome, spacious and comfortable with modern amenities like a mini bar and internet access (for a fee). The breakfast buffet offered a variety of local and international selections. I especially enjoyed breakfast and opted for fresh fruit and the Nepali items like cheeses and pastries.

There were Nepali cheeses at breakfast

The Dwarika’s pool was adjacent to one of the restaurants

One night during my stay I had dinner at Krishnarpan, the hotel’s gourmet Nepali restaurant. After removing my shoes at the entrance of the restaurant there was a brief ceremonial “hand washing” before I was escorted across the wood floor to a ground level table. The candlelit room was decorated in wood and red tones. Prettily dressed staff ladies who spoke some English looked after guests.

A sentinel in the common areas

It was necessary when booking my reservation with the front desk to decide which of the set menus I would have for dinner. While I was eager to sample Nepali dishes I chose the most modest, the six course dinner, on the staff’s recommendation. It consisted of:  Samaya Bajee, an assortment of Nepali hors d’oeuvres served during religious ceremonies; Chyau Ko Sekuwa, Pan grilled oyster mushroom finished with fresh cream (a favorite); Roti, Unleavened griddle roasted bread; Momo, Potatoes and chickpeas cooked with Nepalese spices; Tarkari Ko Jhol, Vegetable soup cooked with Nepali spices (a favorite); Sada Bhuja, Organic steamed rice; Dal Jhaneko, Organic lentil tempered with Himalayan herbs; Kukhura Ko Masu, Traditional Nepali chicken curry cooked with aromatic Nepalese herbs and spices; Saag Jhaneko, Sauteed organic spinach with Nepalese spices; Aloo Ra Parwal Tareko, Stir fried potato and mini gourd; Eskush Ra Bhatamas Ko Tarkari, Sweet gourd and soyabean cooked with Nepali spices; Mis Mas Achar, Homemade vegetable pickle; Lapsee Ko Achaar, a very spicy Homemade hug-plum pickle; Sikarni, Fresh yoghurt flavored with cinnamon sweetened with honey; and Chiya wa Kafi, tea or coffee. Although almost all of the dishes were spicy and hot it was a most enjoyable meal served by attentive staff in an attractive dining room.

A special area was dedicated to the founder of the hotel

Named for Dwarika Das Shrestha, its founder, Dwarika’s Hotel in Kathmandu was outstanding for its combination of luxury features and facilities including a spa, heritage design, well appointed rooms, service and foodie oriented offerings. As I traveled around Nepal I realized how special Dwarika’s was and missed it.

One of the many decorative touches

In addition to the architectural and artistic design features, including original thirteenth century artifacts and replicas, which lent the urban hotel a historic and cultural air I enjoyed Dwarika’s for the understated casual luxury, safety features and delicious food. Should I find myself in Kathmandu again this would be my first option for accommodations. Dwarika’s Hotel, P.O. Box P.O.Box-459, Battisputali, Kathmandu, Nepal, + 977-1 4479488/ 4470770, fax + 977-1 4471379/4478378, http://dwarikas.com, info@dwarikas.com

Coopers Beach, Southampton

When I moved to New York City years ago, a friend advised me that the only way to survive the City’s hectic lifestyle was to get out once a month. I couldn’t agree more. A weekend in Southampton, New York, was the perfect combination of a tranquil and easy getaway in an upscale setting with natural beauty and interesting local history. Because we went in the fall, we were able to enjoy the many delights of this famous retreat for the rich and famous, without the notorious summertime crowds.

Located on the southeastern end of Long Island, New York, Southampton is one of a number of prestigious villages collectively known as the Hamptons. The village was the first English settlement in the state of New York, dating all the way back to 1640;  and as I soon learned, one of its most charming attributes was its rich history.

Bruce Michael, our enthusiastic tour guide

We arrived Friday evening after a two and half hour train ride from Penn Station, New York. The next day was a beautiful sunny but blustery fall day, and we were excited to discover the many treasures of this exclusive village. We met Bruce Michael, a local resident and tour guide, who led us on a fascinating historical journey of Southampton (Bruce Michael Guided Tours, 327 Central Park West Apt 2C, New York, NY 10025, +1 917 623 6602, http://www.discoverlongisland.com/visitors/more-info.aspx?cli_number=6727&major=, BruceMK@aol.com). What we liked about Bruce Michael as a tour guide was his genuine enthusiasm for the area, as well as the historical insight he provided about the high society families that have resided in Southampton over the last two centuries. We started in the center of town on Jobs Lane, a picturesque tree-shaded street lined with upscale boutiques.

The Parrish Art Museum

Our first stop was the Parrish Art Museum (25 Jobs Lane, Southampton, NY 11968, +1 631 283 2118, fax +1 631 283 7006, http://parrishart.org/, info@parrishart.org). Founded in 1897 by Samuel Longstreth Parrish, a discerning art collector, the museum has since housed a permanent collection of over 2,600 pieces by prominent artists who have lived or worked in the area, including Jackson Pollock, Roy Lichtenstein, William Merritt Chase and Fairfield Porter. Select works were displayed throughout the year in the museum’s changing exhibitions.

Rogers Mansion, headquarters of the Southampton Historical Museums and Research Center

After leaving the Parrish Art Museum, we walked up the street to a beautifully preserved Greek revival style home called Rogers Mansion, the headquarters of the Southampton Historical Museums and Research Center (17 Meeting House Lane, Southampton, NY 11969, +1 631 283 2494, fax +1 631 283 4540, www.southamptonhistoricalmuseum.org, info@southamptonhistoricalmuseum.org). We explored a handful of period rooms decorated in original furnishings, paintings and books of the home, originally built in 1843 for a wealthy whaling captain. I was particularly moved by the display of photos and newspaper articles describing the 1938 New England hurricane that devastated the area and was responsible for over 600 deaths in Long Island and southern New England. Just behind the mansion was the Old Southampton Village, made up of historic structures, such as a blacksmith’s shop, a paint shop and a colonial-era barn.

The Thomas Halsey Homestead

Next, we hopped in a van and visited the Thomas Halsey Homestead, just outside of the center of town (249 South Main Street, Southampton, NY 11969, +1 631 283 2494, fax +1 631 283 4540, http://southamptonhistoricalmuseum.org/museummain.asp?id=3). Built circa 1660, it is believed to be the oldest English-style house in New York State. We walked through the carefully curated rooms filled with original 17th and 18th century artifacts, such as open hearth cooking tools, a spinning wheel, and religious propaganda aimed at converting Native Americans.

The Thomas Halsey Homestead, living standards have changed a lot since 1660

The final stop on our tour was Coopers Beach, a beautifully manicured sandy white beach, roughly 1.8 miles from the center of town. The pristine beach was virtually empty, which made for a tranquil setting. Simply breathing in the fresh seaside air while watching waves crash along the seashore had a calming effect on me.

Heading back to the center of town, we drove down a grid of well-groomed streets lined with palatial mansions. Manors surrounding Lake Agawam had bragging rights to some of the most expensive real estate in the United States, and served as summer homes to some of America’s most prestigious families. The two-hour historical tour served as an excellent introduction to some of the village’s most important historical sites and captured my imagination of earlier times in Southampton.

The Driver’s Seat Restaurant

After the tour we enjoyed lunch at the Driver’s Seat Restaurant (66 Jobs Lane, Southampton, NY 11968, +1 631 283 6606, fax +1 631 283 6607, http://www.thedriversseatrestaurant.com/The_Drivers_Seat_Restaurant/Home.html, driversseatrestaurant@gmail.com). The ambiance was a pleasant mix of laid back pub with upscale touches, including a fresh bouquet of roses on every table and white-linen table clothes. We had a friendly chat with the owner, who made us feel welcome. The food was tasty and satisfying. I appreciated the varied and reasonably priced menu, particularly in comparison to some of the other overpriced establishments we visited throughout the weekend.

Jobs Lane in the center of Southampton, home to elegant boutiques

We spent the rest of the afternoon casually strolling down Main Street and Jobs Lane, popping in and out of the many exclusive shops and boutiques. I liked that the diverse clothing stores, antiques, and high-end furniture and jewelry stores were within walking distance, making Southampton an elite shopper’s delight. Above and beyond shopping, the well-preserved historic architecture gave the area a colonial feel, added to its overall charm and made walking around the town center particularly pleasant.

Wolffer Estate Vineyard

Just before sunset, we took a 15-minute car ride to Wolffer Estate Vineyard (139 Sagg Road, PO Box 9002, Sagaponack, NY 11962, +1 631 537 5106, fax +1 631 537 5107, www.wolffer.com, info@wolffer.com). The Tuscan-style villa looked out onto 55 acres of beautifully landscaped vineyards. I felt as if we had been transported to a European winery somewhere in the countryside. Wolffer Estate offered tastings ranging in price from $12 to $18 for four distinct wines. Our tasting began with the 2010 Grandioso Rose, followed by the 2007 Sparkling Brut, Blanc de Blanc, the 2008 Perle Chardonnay, and the 2008 Caya Cabernet Franc. Each of the wines had a distinct and appealing flavor. I jotted down their names so I could ask my local wine shop to order the ones I had sampled. Upon leaving the vineyard, I could not resist purchasing a bottle of the 2008 Perle Chardonnay as a reminder of our pleasant visit to Wolffer Estate.

One of the perks of our weekend getaway was its close proximity to New York City and convenient transportation options. Because we did not want to rent a car, we took the Long Island Rail Road departing from Penn Station in New York City, a two and a half hour relaxed journey. Cabs were waiting for us on our arrival at the train station of Southampton. Hometown Taxi charged $10 for my travel partner and I to go to the center of town five minutes away (425 County Road 39A, Southampton, NY 11968, +1 631 287 5200).

By the end of the weekend, I felt refreshed and ready to return to the faster-paced lifestyle of New York City. Overall we had a delightful autumn weekend in Southampton. The hassle-free travel from New York City, and slow-paced setting of the upscale village with its rich history and diverse attractions provided a wonderful respite from the hustle and bustle of the city.

A street in Kathmandu

Sitting in the back seat of a taxi early on a holiday morning en route to the Kathmandu airport I was thankful that because of the festivities the often narrow roads, shared by a variety of vehicles and animals, of the usually congested and loud Nepali city were surprisingly empty. After passing through several security checks, presenting my ticket and paying taxes I reached a departure area filled with passengers, many waiting for sightseeing flights. Given how full the hall was it was surprising to think that only a week earlier a plane much as the one I was about to board and headed in the same direction had crashed on the side of a mountain with disastrous consequences.

The Guna Airlines plane

Our flight was delayed. We patiently waited and watched others who had arrived behind us cross the final security point, women on one side and men on the other, to an awaiting bus. Eventually it became our turn. A bus delivered 16 of us to a Beech 1900 with Guna Airlines written on the side. We quickly boarded, each one adjacent to a window seat (the few seats without windows remained empty), and buckled up.

The Kathmandu Valley

Soon we were leaving the Kathmandu Valley behind us while heading toward the 8,848 meter (29,028 feet) tall Sagarmatha, as the locals know it, or Mount Everest for us, and the famous Himalayas. The day was sunny though a bit hazy and we were lucky, one of the staff explained, because the weather had been much less clear over the past few days.

A handy chart of the Himalayan peaks was provided

As we approached the Himalayas it was difficult to distinguish which was which never mind which was the highest mountain in spite of the detailed illustration of the mountains on the inside of our ticket and hard-to-understand explanations over the plane’s speaker system. The flight crew invited us to walk up the narrow isle one by one to the cockpit for a brief glimpse and photo of the peaks on the horizon.

A stunning view of the highest mountains in the world

We did this twice with everyone staring in a mixture of what appeared to be surprise and awe and taking photos with all manner of photographic gear through the aircraft’s small and scratched windows. Too soon it was time to return. That brief $179 flight to the Himalayas, I realized later as I headed back to my hotel in the same taxi, had made my trip to Nepal worth all the countless hours of discomfort, flying and changing planes.