By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox

The common areas in Hotel de Crillon

Location, location, location. There is much truth to the saying in a city like Paris, France. Being in a good neighborhood means easy access to many of the attractions that make Paris one of the most alluring cities in the world.

From a tourist perspective the Place de la Concorde is a great location. While the Place itself is attractive it offers the added advantage that within walking distance or a short taxi ride from the Place there are many tourist points of interest like Tuilleries Gardens, Rue de Rivoli, Louvre Museum, Place Vendome, Place de la Madeleine and Champs Elysees Avenue as well as shopping venues and gourmet restaurants.

The Baccarat crystal elephant in the salon outside Les Ambassadeurs

On the Place, the Hotel de Crillon, part of a project commissioned in 1758 by Louis XV, became a private residence and was converted to a hotel in 1909. Over time the hotel has been the temporary home of United States Presidents Herbert Hoover, Theodore Roosevelt and Richard Nixon, Emperor Hirohito of Japan, Reza Shah Pahlavi of Iran, King George V of England, King Juan Carlos and the queen of Spain, Madonna, and Elizabeth Taylor among others. The historic building is to this day a luxury hotel. We stayed there during a holiday trip to the City of Lights.

For those who need to combine business with pleasure the hotel, located across the street from the United States Embassy, is in central Paris. Although the facade was under renovation and there was scaffolding covering the front of the building, inside there were many features that made the hotel worth a stay for business and leisure travelers. Our suite had a living area with a desk that was convenient for personal and business meetings and there was excellent internet connectivity for both of our computers.

The dining room at Les Ambassadeurs

Over the years the marble filled historic building has been well maintained. Our spacious and handsome Presidential Suite looked onto Rue de l’Arcade and a building that may have been part of the embassy complex. We liked the well known entrance from the Place de la Concorde and another more discreet entrance on Rue de l’Arcade leading to Rue Saint Honore, a popular shopping street. As guests we had access to a fitness center, two restaurants and a bar within the hotel; we could also walk for exercise and dine at one of the myriad restaurants within a short distance of the hotel.

A place setting at Les Ambassadeurs

For years Les Ambassadeurs, the hotel’s gourmet restaurant, has stood out among the thousands of dining venues of the city. Its beautiful dining room and prized location on the Place de la Concorde have been among its attractions along with talented chefs and capable restaurant staff. During our stay at the hotel we dined at Les Ambassadeurs, which had undergone a change in management and chef, to rediscover the restaurant.

Pierre Jung, the restaurant manager at Les Ambassadeurs

We were pleasantly surprised to see Pierre Jung, the new manager and a familiar face. We knew him from his time at the well known Senderens restaurant in the nearby Place de la Madeleine. Christopher Hache, the promising new young chef, who we met briefly that day, also had experience at Senderens (and as it was formerly known Lucas Carton). Our delicious and well served tasting menu was a success. We plan to return to the restaurant when next we are in Paris.

Dessert at Les Ambassadeurs

We thoroughly enjoyed our most recent stay at the Hotel de Crillon, especially our Presidential Suite and indulgent meal at Les Ambassadeurs. Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review for information about the restaurant Les Ambassadeurs and  Hotel de Crillon in Paris, France.

By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox

The entrance to Hélène Darroze

For years we had been fans of Chef Hélène Darroze, an up and coming chef with an adventurous touch. It had been nearly four years since our last visit and we wondered what was new at her Latin Quarter restaurant in Paris, France. When we visited Paris most recently we made time to sample the restaurant’s Lunch and Tasting menus.

A pre-appetizer sliced at our table was a favorite

We discovered a very different restaurant from the one we used to visit. Where there used to be an a la carte and special menus now there were only two basic dining options. There was a Lunch Menu for 52 euros or 65 euros with two glasses of wine, and a Degustation Menu priced at 125 euros or 175 euros with four glasses of wine.

French caviar with cauliflower mousse from Britanny

The first day we dined there we had the Lunch Menu: Le caviar de France mousseline de chou-fleur de Bretagne en gelée iodée, tartare de noix de coquilles Saint-Jacques de Port en Bessin au corail d’oursin; Le homard bleu cuit à la nacre,royale de potimarron, miettes de châtaigne, cappuccino de Parmesan Reggiano; Le chipiron de ligne de Saint-Jean de Luz fine raviole aux verts de blette et olives Taggiasche, chorizo, réduction à l’encre perlée d’huile d’olive, émulsion d’ail rose; Le foie gras de canard des Landes de chez Dupérier grillé au feu de bois, betteraves glacées, jus de riquette à l’estragon; La sole de petit bateau filet tartiné de limequat confit, sudachi, salsifis et coquillages, émulsion à la citronnelle; Le cochon d’Ibérico Bellota Carré et pluma, chou de Bruxelles, pomme Rubinette et chasselas de Moissac caramélisés, jus de déglaçage; L’ananas, la vanille et la noix de coco dans une version sucrée de la pina collada; and Le chocolat Manjari de Madagascar ganache, crème brûlée au calamansi confit, crumble au cacao.

A favorite Bellota pork dish

On the last day of the year we had the Tasting Menu: Le caviar de France mousseline de chou-fleur de Bretagne en gelée iodée, tartare de noix de coquilles Saint Jacques de Port en Bessin aux coraux d’oursin (Caviar from France iodized Brittany cauliflower mousseline, tartar of Saint-Jacques scallops from Port en Bessin with sea urchin); Le homard bleu cuit à la nacre, royale de potiron, miettes de chataîgne, capuccino de parmesan Reggiano (Blue lobster slightly seared, winter squash royale, chestnut crusts, Parmigiano Reggiano cappuccino); Le chipiron de Saint-Jean-de-Luz fines ravioles aux verts de blette et olives Taggiasche, chorizo, réduction à l’encre perlé d’huile d’olive, crème d’ail rose (Line caught calamari from Saint-Jean de Luz ravioli with chard and Taggiasche olives, chorizo, ink reduction with olive oil, pink garlic emulsion); Le foie gras de canard des Landes de chez Dupérier grillé au feu de bois, betteraves glacées, jus de roquette à l’estragon (Dupérier’s duck foie gras grilled on wood fire, glazed beets, riquette jus with tarragon); La sole de petit bâteau filet tartiné de limequat confit, sudashi, salsifis et coquillages, émulsion à la citronnelle (Sole fillet, spread with confit limquat, sudachi, salsify and shellfish, lemon grass foam); Le chevreuil filet rôti au poivre long, côtelette juste saisie, chou de Bruxelles, pomme Rubinette et chasselas de Moissac caramélisés; La poire Comice pochée, panacotta parfumée au gingembre confit, biscuit clafoutis, granité à la poire (Pina colada coconut crisps, lemon jelly, Bombay curry, Tahitian vanilla ice-cream); and Le chocolat Manjari de Madagascar ganache, crème brûlée au kalamansi confit, crumble au cacao (Manjari chocolate from Madagascar ganache, confit Calamansi crème brûlée, cocoa crumble).

The sommelier pouring our champagne

Céline Strenta, the sommelier, selected three young wines to accompany our meal Pacherenc du Vic Bihl 2009, Vouvray sec 2007 “Le Mont” Domaine Huet and Bergerac 2008 “Clos des Verdot” David Fourtour. We liked the red best.

The armagnac cart

Both times the upstairs gourmet dining room (the restaurant offered two additional dining venues on the ground floor) at the restaurant Helene Darroze where we had lunch was near full. The meals were satisfying, well prepared and well served. The English speaking staff that looked after us were helpful and pleasant and and the overall dining experience was worth repeating. Restaurant Hélène Darroze, 4 rue d’Assas, 75006, Paris, France, Telephone + 33 42 22 00 11, www.helenedarroze.com, Email reservation@helenedarroze.com.

Doorman at the hotel wearing traditional Khmer costume

One of our team members was recently in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Among the places she visited was Le Grand restaurant, the gourmet restaurant of the Raffles Hotel in that city. The quiet restaurant in the lobby of the historic hotel was known locally for its wine collection, Royal Khmer cuisine, and romantic setting.  Visit Simonandbaker.com for more about Siem Reap and Restaurant Le Grand.

Article and photos by Elena del Valle

On a recent visit to Siem Reap, Cambodia I had the pleasure of dining at Meric, the gourmet restaurant of my stylish and centrally located hotel. Named after the highly sought-after Cambodian pepper grown in the Kampot region Meric served a seasonally-inspired Khmer menu using the produce of local farmers. Established in 2005, the 217 square meter restaurant was in the capable hands of American Chef Bryan Gardner, who had just become executive chef, and Restaurant Manager Sokthea Mao. They and their enthusiastic team of 18 produced some memorable meals.

Chef Bryan Gardner and his staff

Chef Gardner grew up in Eastport, Maine known for its seafood. After attending the University of Southern Maine, he pursued a Culinary Arts degree at the New England Culinary Institute in Vermont. In 2005, he went to the Martini House in Saint Helena, Napa Valley before working with Joseph Humphrey, chef at the Meadowood Resort (a Relais and Chateaux property). He later worked under Japanese Chef Hiro Sone at Terra, where he observed the fusion of Asian and Western cuisines. In 2007, his passion for Asian cooking drew him to South East Asia where he fell in love with Cambodia. In July 2010, after working for two years at Hotel de la Paix as sous chef he became executive chef of the hotel’s restaurant. One of his goals is to raise the profile of Khmer cuisine within Asian and international circles alongside a la carte dishes with French, American and Asian influences.

Outside swing seating facing the courtyard

I particularly liked the restaurant’s dining swings set along a tranquil internal courtyard with a water feature. This was my favorite area of the hotel. The restaurant, said to have one of the largest collections of international wines in Siem Reap, could accommodate up to 108 guests, 64 indoors and 44 outdoors. I liked the outdoors best, especially at a table with a view of the courtyard.

A Cambodian breakfast dish with fresh herbs and vegetables

Although the menu changed daily depending on the produce available from the local farmers and growers, while I was at the Hotel de la Paix where the restaurant is housed, I sampled the seven-course Khmer Tasting Menu.  It was outstanding and, at $31 per person, an excellent value for money.

One of the courses from the Meric Khmer Tasting Menu

Twice I had the tasting menu. The first time on a Monday I had Pomelo Salad with Prawn served at the same time as Chicken and Banana Bud Salad. Next there was Grilled Beef with Cucumber and Prahok Sauce served with Khmer organic white rice next to Pork Rib Sour Soup “Jungle Style.” Next there was Stir Fried Frog with Fresh Ginger served at the same time as Cat Fish and Green Curry. The final dish was a small tray of Assorted Khmer Sweets for each of us.

Dishes were served in pairs for contrast

On Wednesday, I had Pomelo Salad with Crispy Pork Fritter served at the same time as Green Mango Salad with Dried Snake (both favorites). Then there was Grilled Prahok with Khmer Crudites served with Khmer organic white rice at the same time as Prawn with Water Lily Sour Soup. The final savory courses served at the same time were Stir Fried Frog with Ginger (had a definite bite) and Beef Shank Curry with Morning Glory (a favorite). For dessert there were assorted Khmer Sweets. Of the two tasting menus the first was my favorite although both were outstanding and worth a detour.

Dessert was a stylized interpretation of Khmer classics

Congratulations to the team at the Meric restaurant for its noteworthy gourmet dining.  Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review for additional information about Siem Reap and the Hotel de la Paix.

Article and photos by Elena del Valle

The Hansar Samui

After a difficult flight to the island of Koh Samui in Thailand, I exited the airport to discover it was necessary to follow what felt like a long, partly on an incline, path to the passenger pick up area. It was hot and humid and by the time I made it there I was sweating and desperate to leave the airport.

My room at the hotel

As I pushed my luggage cart up the last part of the incline I spotted a friendly looking man with a turquoise polo short at the head of the line of people waiting for passengers. Later I learned his name, Sin Samney “Sam,” the Hansar Samui front desk manager and concierge. Sam held a sign with my name on it and a radiant smile that melted my sour mood instantly. “Pop,” the hotel driver was with him and while Sam greeted me Pop went to fetch the car from the parking lot in front of us. A moment later I was comfortably seated inside the air conditioned hotel car holding a refresher towel and drinking chilled water.

The beach view from the lounge

That set the tone for my stay at the Hansar Samui. I thoroughly enjoyed my beach front handsome room with a covered balcony as well as the hotel spa, fitness center, restaurant, and saltwater infinity edge swimming pool. I will remember the hotel for the staff’s friendliness and thoughtful touches like the constant supply of mangoosteens in my room fruit bowl when they found out it was a favorite (I bought some at the village market), and amenities like the nightly home baked sweets and chocolates.

Sweets from H-Bistro

While I was there I had an opportunity to sample the new H-Bistro Tasting Menu. The first course was perfectly cooked Seared Hokaido scallops with celeriac, cherry tomato compote and Riesling foam. Then there was a delightful Pan fried foie gras liver with rapberry yogurt and rapberry essence followed by a delicious Linguini pasta with, garlic, red chili, tiger prawn, Dutch Mussels and fresh dill. For the next course we could select one from the following three: Pan seared Arctic Char with ratatouille, eggplant and lobster foam or Slow cooked Bresse baby chicken with white asparagus, crispy guanciale and Black summer truffle sauce or Grilled Canadian Lobster with garlic butter and rocket salad. I was able to sample the chicken (a favorite) and the lobster. Although dessert was not part of the set menu we had saved room to sample Warm melted chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream and Pineapple ravioli both of which provided a satisfying completion the lovingly prepared and artfully presented meal.

Foie gras at H-Bistro

The chicken was a favorite

From Indra Budiman the affable general manager, to Stephen Jean Dion, Hansar’s executive chef, the restaurant staff who I met the day I sampled the H-Bistro Tasting Menu; to the front desk staff, the room service staff, the ladies at the spa, the young men in the pool area and nearly every staff member I had a chance to meet I felt welcome, even when our communication was limited by language.

Hansar Chef Stephen Jean Dion

You can read more about my stay at the Hansar Samui and the Luxsa Spa in Koh Samui, Thailand at the Simon & Baker Travel Review.