Article by Laura Scheiber
Photos by Matthew Harris

Coopers Beach, Southampton

When I moved to New York City years ago, a friend advised me that the only way to survive the City’s hectic lifestyle was to get out once a month. I couldn’t agree more. A weekend in Southampton, New York, was the perfect combination of a tranquil and easy getaway in an upscale setting with natural beauty and interesting local history. Because we went in the fall, we were able to enjoy the many delights of this famous retreat for the rich and famous, without the notorious summertime crowds.

Located on the southeastern end of Long Island, New York, Southampton is one of a number of prestigious villages collectively known as the Hamptons. The village was the first English settlement in the state of New York, dating all the way back to 1640;  and as I soon learned, one of its most charming attributes was its rich history.

Bruce Michael, our enthusiastic tour guide

We arrived Friday evening after a two and half hour train ride from Penn Station, New York. The next day was a beautiful sunny but blustery fall day, and we were excited to discover the many treasures of this exclusive village. We met Bruce Michael, a local resident and tour guide, who led us on a fascinating historical journey of Southampton (Bruce Michael Guided Tours, 327 Central Park West Apt 2C, New York, NY 10025, +1 917 623 6602, http://www.discoverlongisland.com/visitors/more-info.aspx?cli_number=6727&major=, BruceMK@aol.com). What we liked about Bruce Michael as a tour guide was his genuine enthusiasm for the area, as well as the historical insight he provided about the high society families that have resided in Southampton over the last two centuries. We started in the center of town on Jobs Lane, a picturesque tree-shaded street lined with upscale boutiques.

The Parrish Art Museum

Our first stop was the Parrish Art Museum (25 Jobs Lane, Southampton, NY 11968, +1 631 283 2118, fax +1 631 283 7006, http://parrishart.org/, info@parrishart.org). Founded in 1897 by Samuel Longstreth Parrish, a discerning art collector, the museum has since housed a permanent collection of over 2,600 pieces by prominent artists who have lived or worked in the area, including Jackson Pollock, Roy Lichtenstein, William Merritt Chase and Fairfield Porter. Select works were displayed throughout the year in the museum’s changing exhibitions.

Rogers Mansion, headquarters of the Southampton Historical Museums and Research Center

After leaving the Parrish Art Museum, we walked up the street to a beautifully preserved Greek revival style home called Rogers Mansion, the headquarters of the Southampton Historical Museums and Research Center (17 Meeting House Lane, Southampton, NY 11969, +1 631 283 2494, fax +1 631 283 4540, www.southamptonhistoricalmuseum.org, info@southamptonhistoricalmuseum.org). We explored a handful of period rooms decorated in original furnishings, paintings and books of the home, originally built in 1843 for a wealthy whaling captain. I was particularly moved by the display of photos and newspaper articles describing the 1938 New England hurricane that devastated the area and was responsible for over 600 deaths in Long Island and southern New England. Just behind the mansion was the Old Southampton Village, made up of historic structures, such as a blacksmith’s shop, a paint shop and a colonial-era barn.

The Thomas Halsey Homestead

Next, we hopped in a van and visited the Thomas Halsey Homestead, just outside of the center of town (249 South Main Street, Southampton, NY 11969, +1 631 283 2494, fax +1 631 283 4540, http://southamptonhistoricalmuseum.org/museummain.asp?id=3). Built circa 1660, it is believed to be the oldest English-style house in New York State. We walked through the carefully curated rooms filled with original 17th and 18th century artifacts, such as open hearth cooking tools, a spinning wheel, and religious propaganda aimed at converting Native Americans.

The Thomas Halsey Homestead, living standards have changed a lot since 1660

The final stop on our tour was Coopers Beach, a beautifully manicured sandy white beach, roughly 1.8 miles from the center of town. The pristine beach was virtually empty, which made for a tranquil setting. Simply breathing in the fresh seaside air while watching waves crash along the seashore had a calming effect on me.

Heading back to the center of town, we drove down a grid of well-groomed streets lined with palatial mansions. Manors surrounding Lake Agawam had bragging rights to some of the most expensive real estate in the United States, and served as summer homes to some of America’s most prestigious families. The two-hour historical tour served as an excellent introduction to some of the village’s most important historical sites and captured my imagination of earlier times in Southampton.

The Driver’s Seat Restaurant

After the tour we enjoyed lunch at the Driver’s Seat Restaurant (66 Jobs Lane, Southampton, NY 11968, +1 631 283 6606, fax +1 631 283 6607, http://www.thedriversseatrestaurant.com/The_Drivers_Seat_Restaurant/Home.html, driversseatrestaurant@gmail.com). The ambiance was a pleasant mix of laid back pub with upscale touches, including a fresh bouquet of roses on every table and white-linen table clothes. We had a friendly chat with the owner, who made us feel welcome. The food was tasty and satisfying. I appreciated the varied and reasonably priced menu, particularly in comparison to some of the other overpriced establishments we visited throughout the weekend.

Jobs Lane in the center of Southampton, home to elegant boutiques

We spent the rest of the afternoon casually strolling down Main Street and Jobs Lane, popping in and out of the many exclusive shops and boutiques. I liked that the diverse clothing stores, antiques, and high-end furniture and jewelry stores were within walking distance, making Southampton an elite shopper’s delight. Above and beyond shopping, the well-preserved historic architecture gave the area a colonial feel, added to its overall charm and made walking around the town center particularly pleasant.

Wolffer Estate Vineyard

Just before sunset, we took a 15-minute car ride to Wolffer Estate Vineyard (139 Sagg Road, PO Box 9002, Sagaponack, NY 11962, +1 631 537 5106, fax +1 631 537 5107, www.wolffer.com, info@wolffer.com). The Tuscan-style villa looked out onto 55 acres of beautifully landscaped vineyards. I felt as if we had been transported to a European winery somewhere in the countryside. Wolffer Estate offered tastings ranging in price from $12 to $18 for four distinct wines. Our tasting began with the 2010 Grandioso Rose, followed by the 2007 Sparkling Brut, Blanc de Blanc, the 2008 Perle Chardonnay, and the 2008 Caya Cabernet Franc. Each of the wines had a distinct and appealing flavor. I jotted down their names so I could ask my local wine shop to order the ones I had sampled. Upon leaving the vineyard, I could not resist purchasing a bottle of the 2008 Perle Chardonnay as a reminder of our pleasant visit to Wolffer Estate.

One of the perks of our weekend getaway was its close proximity to New York City and convenient transportation options. Because we did not want to rent a car, we took the Long Island Rail Road departing from Penn Station in New York City, a two and a half hour relaxed journey. Cabs were waiting for us on our arrival at the train station of Southampton. Hometown Taxi charged $10 for my travel partner and I to go to the center of town five minutes away (425 County Road 39A, Southampton, NY 11968, +1 631 287 5200).

By the end of the weekend, I felt refreshed and ready to return to the faster-paced lifestyle of New York City. Overall we had a delightful autumn weekend in Southampton. The hassle-free travel from New York City, and slow-paced setting of the upscale village with its rich history and diverse attractions provided a wonderful respite from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Article and photos by Elena del Valle

Lunch at Papillote Wilderness Retreat and Tropical Garden

While in Dominica, an ecotourism destination in the Caribbean, I enjoyed mostly organic meals. At the Pavilion Restaurant, the restaurant of the Jungle Bay Resort & Spa where I stayed, the meals were organic. Ingredients at the responsible tourism oriented property were sourced locally. I also liked the opportunity they offered guests to sample Dominican dishes and beverages. At breakfast, there were local tea bags and fresh cocoa tea. One day they made lemongrass tea with fresh plucked lemongrass I brought from a hike. Enjoyment of the healthy food at the poolside restaurant was enhanced by a direct view of the Atlantic Ocean.

Local fruits

Nearby, at the Riverside Cafe in the Citrus Creek Plantation at La Plaine (Taberi La Plaine + 1 767 446 1234,www.citruscreekplantation.com, riverside@citruscreekplantation.com) I enjoyed the most flavorful and refined meal during my week long visit to the island. The Citrus Creek Plantation, a French owned luxury real estate community under development on the Taberi River near Turtle Beach, was open for lunch (dinner on request). Patricia Charpentier, a native of Normandy, France with life experience in the kitchen, cooked with mostly garden and locally grown and sourced products.

Patricia Charpentier of the Riverside Cafe

While I tasted the green mango, cytere and prune juice (plastic bottled soft drinks were banned) Hervé “RV” Nizard, the owner, described the projects that were being developed on the riverside property. I sampled the Tasting Platter of fried sweet potatoes, boiled plantains, mashed pumpkin, carambola (starfruit), ginger pork, wonderful homemade mustard salad dressing, salted codfish with lime, shredded cabbage, spicy seafood with coconut milk, green papaya and a fresh salad with zeb couresse fragrant creole leaves, and served with French red table wine.

Dessert was chocolate cake made with imported French dark chocolate from neighboring Guadeloupe and served with organic mint, bananas and cinnamon from the garden. It was uber moist and served with banana slices. I fell in love with Charpentier’s carambola and carambola and bitter orange jams. The open air garden side cafe filled with the sounds of the river and insects (not the biting kind) was a most attractive setting to dine and make the meal memorable.

Charpentier’s carambola and carambola and bitter orange jams and chocolate dessert

Lunch at Le Flambeau Restaurant

At the beachfront and informal Le Flambeau Restaurant at the Portsmouth Beach Hotel (Picard Plantation, off Robert Ross Blvd, North West Dominica, +767 445-5142, www.leflambeaudominica.com, pbh@cwdom.dm) on the northwest corner of the island I had freshwater crayfish washed down with passion fruit juice followed by coconut and guava ice cream and chocolate cake, both homemade. From my simple plastic chair and table I gazed onto a pretty quiet beach while, occasionally, stray dogs wondered in searching for leftovers.

Caribe cooking

In Roseau, I had a delicious local style lunch at the Talipot Gallery within walking distance of my hotel. The art gallery cum restaurant with a view of the Caribbean from the verandah was owned by Nancy Osler. On offer were Dominican and international dishes in the restaurant that catered to locals and visitors. The meals at the Fort Young Hotel, where I stayed, were made fresh daily with local products. The water fronting restaurant offered a lovely setting and views of the Caribbean, the southern end of the island and a partial view of the town. The smoked marlin appetizer on the dinner menu was a favorite of mine.

Anne Jno Baptiste, co-owner, Papillote Wilderness Retreat and Tropical Garden

At the 14-acre Papillote Wilderness Retreat and Tropical Garden (P. O. Box 2287, Trafalgar Falls Road, Roseau, + 767 448 2287, Fax + 767 448 2285 papillote@cwdom.dm ,www.papillote.dm, http://www.papillotegardens.org) in the verdant Roseau River Valley minutes from Roseau yet feeling a world away I had a locally sourced organic meal. During my midday visit I had an opportunity to meet Anne Jno Baptiste, a gracious lady and one of the owners of the property. An enthusiastic staff member guided us around the gardens in the pouring rain (with umbrellas) until my shoes were so wet they made a squishing noise when I walked. In spite of the rainy weather I thoroughly enjoyed my visit and would be pleased to return to explore the gardens in the sunshine, indulge in a hot springs dip and sample other dishes.

Article and photos by Elena del Valle

Braised “prahok” with coconut milk at Cuisine Wat Damnak

It was a rainy night in Siem Reap, Cambodia and I was hungry after spending the better part of the day in tourist endeavors. I was scheduled to have dinner with a friend who called Cambodia’s most popular tourist city home. We had narrowed our choices down to two, Italian for a comfort food meal or as my friend put it, “interesting” food at a newly opened gourmet Khmer restaurant owned by Joannès Riviere, the former chef of the Hotel de la Paix in Siem Reap (see Delicious tasting menus at Meric in Siem Reap, Cambodia) for five years and a native of Rhone, France. Italian we could eat anytime. A gourmet Khmer meal, at least for me, was a limited time option since I was leaving the following day. We called Cuisine Wat Damnak and were fortunate to find a table as a large group had booked most of the restaurant that night. The restaurant was named Wat Damnak for the pagoda next to the restaurant and the area where it is located.

Carol Salmon and Joannès Riviere of Cuisine Wat Damnak

“We decided to call it like this in honor of this neighborhood we’ve been living in since we arrived in Cambodia,” said Carole Salmon, a native of Nantes and one of the owners. “It is also a way to indicate where we are since we are a little bit out of the way. Cuisine because it is a French word (and we are French) that either means kitchen, cooking and gastronomy at the same time. Our vision was to create a place entirely dedicated to Cambodian food.”

Steamed Mekong langoustine with rice wine and Kurata pepper

Pan fried wild snakehead fish and eggplant

There were two set menu options with amouse bouche, a four course ($17) and a five course ($24) selection, presented in a four-page printed menu with beverages in the first and last pages and the set menus in the middle. There were four types of cocktails, a variety of spirits and aperitifs, Cambodian, Asian and European beer options, soft drinks, mineral water, two types of cider and a selection of red, white and rosé wines from Argentina, Australia, Chile, France, New Zealand, and South Africa.

Free range chicken and grilled garlic sour soup

We both chose the five course menus: Siem reap sausage and cucumber salad with dry shrimp and chili; Steamed Mekong langoustine with rice wine and Kurata pepper; Free range chicken and grilled garlic sour soup with purple yam and wild mushrooms; Braised “prahok” with coconut milk; pan fried wild snakehead fish and eggplant, and Chocolate and wild cardamon light ganache, cashew nut praliné and puffed rice. We shared a bottle of red wine to accompany the meal.

Dinner in the air conditioned and colorful restaurant was very good. Staff were friendly and helpful and the set menu was satisfying. There were enough exotic ingredients to make it fun without any seriously challenging flavors. It was one of my favorite meals during my 10 day visit to Cambodia.

Chocolate and wild cardamon light ganache, cashew nut praliné and puffed rice

At the end when all the guests were gone Chef Riviere and Salmon, the owners, joined us briefly for a drink. The chef had learned to cook with his father who was a chef and an organic vegetable farmer and his grandmother who graduated from the Cordon Bleu cooking school in the 1950s. The young couple from France had recently had a baby and opened their new restaurant almost at the same time. Cuisine Wat Damnak restaurant (Siem Reap, Kingdom of Cambodia +855 (0) 63 965 491, www.cuisinewatdamnak.com, info@cuisinewatdamnak.com).

A refined dinner at Raffles Hotel Le Royal

The food I sampled in Cambodia was surprisingly flavorful and, in some cases, refined. In Phnom Penh, the capital city, the restaurants at Raffles Hotel Le Royal, my hotel, were good and quite convenient. I was particularly impressed with Le Royal the hotel’s fine dining restaurant which was managed by Christoph Sclatter, a Swiss executive with exacting expectations and great enthusiasm. My dinner on a quiet night was a blend of recreated traditional Khmer dishes from the royal household and western dishes like tuna tartare and crepes suzette prepared table side.

Crepes for dessert at Raffles Hotel Le Royal

A nice chicken mayonnaise amouse bouche was the first eatable item to arrive at my table. In addition to the tuna, which was served with a full compliment of condiments, I sampled the Duck consomme with Takoe River lobster won tons; Takoe River lobster with coconut milk and red curry (mild at my request); and a delicate and perfectly cooked Black cod with fish eggs and Madagascar vanilla sauce.

Khmer Kitchen, a family owned restaurant in central Siem Reap

My favorite dish at Khmer Kitchen

The owners of Khmer Kitchen

I spent twice as much time in Siem Reap as I did in the capital. The extra time afforded me the opportunity to dine at several places. Khmer Kitchen, a family owned restaurant founded by Perk Sophalon, on Pup Street in the heart of the tourist area of the city, served tasty Khmer dishes including the traditional Amok with fish. Their recipe was savory and flavorful. While I’m no expert in Khmer dishes, it was my favorite Amok dish. I also enjoyed their fruit juice. Started in 2000 with four tables the popular restaurant had grown to two locations 200 meters apart. Khmer Kitchen Restaurant & Khmer Kitchen Restaurant BBQ (#203 Group 6 Khum Svay Dang Kum, Siem Reap Kingdom of Cambodia, +855 63 964154, 855 77688677, info@khmerkitchens.com, www.khmerkitchens.com).

The owners of The Sugar Palm Restaurant & Bar, an open air restaurant in a two-story building

Crispy rolls at The Sugar Palm

On another rainy night I visited the Sugar Palm Restaurant and Bar, owned by Bruce and Kethana Dunnet who had moved to Siem Reap from New Zealand (Kethana was originally from Cambodia). The open air restaurant was on the upstairs of a two story building with indoor and terrace seating, high ceilings and fans to cool guests. There was artwork for sale on the walls and Cambodian music played in the background. I liked the crispy rolls made with fine noodles and served with julienne of green papaya and sweet sauce; the minced pork eggplant had a smokey sweet delicious flavor.

The only down side was finding a tuk tuk (covered bicycle for hire commonly used in Siem Reap) to take me back to my hotel. After a long wait, about 40 minutes, two showed up but refused to take me because they didn’t know where my hotel was located. In the end, the kind server offered me a ride on his motorbike. By then the rain had become a drizzle and I gladly accepted. Sugar Palm Restaurant & Bar (Taphul Road, Siem Reap, Kingdom of Cambodia, +855 63 964 838).

Article and photos by Laura Scheiber

Lobby of The Ritz-Carlton, Powerscourt

During a springtime trip to Ireland, my travel partners and I stayed at The Ritz-Carlton, Powerscourt. Located on the grounds of the 1,000-acre Powerscourt Estate in County Wicklow, the resort was situated in a lush green countryside setting roughly 40 minutes outside of Dublin.

The lobby had a majestic feel with high ceilings and was tastefully decorated in deep wooden browns and gold, with vibrant fresh flowers. Following the check-in, the front desk receptionist escorted me to my Mountain View Suite (number 352). On the way she chatted with me in a friendly manner, suggesting a number of activities that I might enjoy.

The  bedroom in suite 352

Upon opening the door I was pleased by the elegant décor of the 700 square-foot suite. The entry hallway, which had a powder room on the right hand side, led to a Georgian style sitting room with an ornamental fireplace. Around the corner was a spacious area with a dining table and a large wooden desk. Farthest from the entrance was the bedroom opening out onto a terrace that provided a view of Sugar Loaf Mountain. Next to the bedroom and walk-in closet was a generous-sized bathroom with a separate bathtub, shower and toilet room.

Fresh scones upon arrival

Five minutes after I arrived, one of the staff members delivered freshly baked scones (still warm) with butter and jam. The suite had numerous modern details, including a touch screen system that controlled the lights, curtains and air conditioning, and televisions in the sitting area, bedroom and bathroom. Toiletries included: Gilchrist & Soames Bath Caviar (bath beads), facial spray and lip balm; Ritz-Carlton mouth wash and dental kit; and 1.3 ounce-sized Acqua Di Parma shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, soap, and lotion. Two plush terry robes hung on the bathroom wall next to the shower.

The color scheme of the suite was white, gold and light blue, while the bathroom had predominantly white-marble walls. The suite was immaculately clean. Throughout the evening I enjoyed a number of additional amenities including complimentary 24-hour hi speed wi-fi access, a complimentary box of eight gourmet chocolate truffles, and turn down service that included a bottle of mountain spring still water and relaxing pillow spray.

The John Dory fish in blood orange puree at Gordon Ramsay at Powerscourt

In the evening, I dined at the Gordon Ramsay at Powerscourt restaurant on the third floor of the hotel. Ceiling-to-floor glass windows offered stunning views of Sugar Loaf Mountain and added a spacious feel to the dining area. I enjoyed a six-course meal that began with a green pea puree, compliments of the chef, followed by a goat cheese and red beet salad. My main course was preceded by a delicious spring garlic puree. While I enjoyed a yummy spinach and mushroom gnocchi, my travel mates had rave reviews about their John Dory fish in a blood orange puree, fennel salad and chorizo emulsion, and the Donald Russell beef fillet with wild mushrooms, triple cooked chips, and pepper sauce. The meal was complete with a mouthwatering lemon curd on Brittany shortbread and crystallized raspberries.

We enjoyed complimentary gourmet mini chocolates and pastries at the chef’s table in the kitchen where we met Ludovic Lantier, the executive pastry chef. He explained what was in each of the mini-pastries and answered our questions in a friendly manner.

Ludovic Lantier, executive pastry chef

Throughout the meal, my wine glass was never empty thanks to the attentive wait staff. Both the Cerro Del Masso, a Chianti red wine, and the Las Colinas del Ebro, a Garnacha white wine from Spain, went well with the meal, but I preferred the white wine. The wait staff and manager were friendly and seemed genuinely committed to ensuring that we had an enjoyable dining experience.

Overall, my stay at The Ritz-Carlton, Powerscourt, (Powerscourt Estate, Enniskerry, Ireland, + 353 1 274 8888, http://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/Powerscourt/Default.htm, powerscourtreservations@ritzcarlton.com) was a pleasure. My spacious and luxurious suite with mountain views combined with the hotel’s elegant ambiance, friendly service, and gourmet dining lived up to my expectations of an evening at The Ritz-Carlton.

Article and photos by Elena del Valle

A temple in Tokyo

Earlier this year, before the earthquake hit, I spent a few days in Japan. Although my calendar was overfull it had been years since my last visit to Japan and I couldn’t resist a last minute invitation to the Land of the Rising Sun. Finding a desirable seat on the flights nearly caused the trip to fall apart before it even started. In the end I persevered and with the help of a friendly airline agent everything worked out.

A beautiful garden and bridge in Tokyo

On my arrival at Narita International Airport, I cleared the airport formalities with ease and was thrilled the transfer service driver was waiting for me. He spoke English very well, allowing us to chat during the drive to the Hotel Okura Tokyo (2-10-4 Toranomon, Minato-ku, Tokyo 105-0001, + 81 03 3582-0111, http://www.hotelokura.co.jp/tokyo/en/), where I spent the first three nights in the city. The eleven story contemporary hotel located across the street from the United States Embassy, had 801 rooms, modern facilities, nine restaurants, a fitness center with a swimming pool ($70 per day for hotel guests), spa, ATMs friendly to foreign credit cards, WiFi router for rent (a router compatible with my iPad cost 4,725 yen or about $18 a day at the time) and service oriented English speaking staff. My room was contemporary in style and new looking with a glass enclosed shower, a separate bathtub and a Japanese toilet.

An old versus new contrast with a temple column in the foreground and the Sky Tree in the background

The first day I had breakfast at the Terrace Restaurant, a ground level restaurant facing a snow covered inner courtyard at the hotel. I liked the buffet’s Eastern and Western selection and a delicious tea made from fresh herbs. Later during my stay I sampled some of the items sold at the restaurant’s shop and was quite pleased with the quality.

Breakfast at Yamazato restaurant at the Hotel Okura

By far my favorite breakfast in Tokyo was at Yamazato, the hotel’s Japanese restaurant. As I descended the stairs to the restaurant a young man at the entrance welcomed me in English and led me to a table. Even though the two times I was there I was the only Westerner I felt welcome. The wait staff spoke a few words of English making it possible for us to communicate basics. The servers brought me a glass of water when they spotted my vitamin pack. One of them offered to serve me beef or pork in case I didn’t want fish but what is a Japanese breakfast without fish?

A waitress at Yamazato restaurant at the Hotel Okura

The Japanese breakfast came in a bento box with rice, fish dish (sauteed yellowtail, octopus), hearty and especially flavorful miso soup, pickled vegetables, steamed vegetables, bamboo shoots, mushroom, eggs, and a couple of unidentified dishes. Everything was delicious.

The Tokyo skyline from the Mori Building

In the same way that New York is associated with the Big Apple, Sumiyo, our tour guide, explained, visiting the city of Tokyo can be thought of as exploring an egg. Architecture Guide in Tokyo, a color brochure in English, explained the ways in which Tokyo is like an egg; a handy map on the back pointed to the salient architectural areas of the city. The 284-acre imperial palace appeared in the lower right side of the egg. The inside of the brochure contained a series of descriptions of architectural areas of note within the city based on the egg simile: Omelet-rice for semi-European before 1945, Bacon egg for Western styles before 1945, Atsuyaki tamago Japanese style before 1945, Egg sand for modern style between 1945 and 1975, Boiled egg for plain style between 1976 and 1985, Scrambled egg for post modern style between 1986 and 1995, and Pudding after 1996.

The National Art Center in Tokyo

During the next two days, we would be seeing several neighborhoods within the “egg” of Tokyo, a metropolis of 13 million souls established in 1868 following the collapse of the shogun government. We began across town from our hotel with a visit to Edo Kiriko in Hanashyo (http://www.hanashyo.com), a 60 year old family owned fine cut glass store and workshop. The traditional Japanese home where it was located had such narrow spaces only four or five people could enter at one time. During our visit we watched the owner and his young apprentices engrave and hand polish each colorful piece without using hydrochloric acid at a ground floor workroom, and we saw the finished cut glass pieces on display in a small upper floor showroom. Hanashyo sold Kome-tsunagi, Itokiku-tsunagi and Tama-ichimatsu, three registered proprietary designs. We also visited a second showroom where glass cutting classed were offered. We were invited to experience cutting glass for ourselves for a couple of minutes each. It was fun.

One of my favorite experiences in Japan was a special abbreviated daytime performance of four geishas at Hisago-an restaurant (in Japanese only, http://kaiseki-hisagoan.com/course_hisagoan.html/). The geishas we saw that day normally only perform at the restaurant at night. Three of them danced, one sang briefly and the most senior one played a banjo like instrument. Following the dance they demonstrated one of the games they play while entertaining guests and, with the help of an interpreter, answered questions. In their company we took a rickshaw ride from the restaurant to Senso-ji (http://www.senso-ji.jp/about/index_e.html ), a nearby Buddhist temple, and strolled around the Asakusa area and its well known outdoor shopping arcade next to the temple. It seemed everyone was staring at us until someone explained it was the geishas rare daytime stroll that drew public attention.

One of the geishas who walked with us

From there we drove to Omotesando Ukai-tei (http://www.ukai.co.jp/english/omotesando/index.html), a French influenced restaurant in a shopping mall where we had a Tenderloin Lunch Course, a refined and delicious four-course lunch. During the meal we noticed fine Ercuis French silverware and wood chopsticks, Reidel glassware, and embroidered napkins. We were served Dermotte non vintage Champagne followed by Assorted Appetizers, Roasted Bamboo Shoots, Shellfish Cream Soup, Ukai Beef Tenderloin Pan Fried and Dessert. Although we didn’t have a view from our seats the bar area had pretty city views. The restaurant, part of a chain of restaurants and museums, housed an exhibition space with a perfume bottle collection and a dessert lounge with Art Nouveau ceilings and lacquered pillars.

The main location of Mitsukoshi Nihonbahi, one of Tokyo’s most exclusive department stores

Following lunch we walked around the Omotesando and Aoyama areas. We visited the Espace Louis Vuitton Tokyo (Louis Vuitton Omotesando Building 7F 5-7-5 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0001, +81 03 5766 1088, www.espacelouisvuittontokyo.com) which was hosting French artist Xavier Veilhan; and the Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial Museum of Art (http://ukiyoe-ota-muse.jp/index-E.html), housing a collection of Ukiyo-e Japanese woodblock art.

Strawberries for sale in the food hall of the Mitsukoshi Nihonbahi store

The next day after my delightful Japanese breakfast I was ready to face the cold again. This time we visited the main location of Mitsukoshi Nihonbahi store (Nihombashi Muro-machi 1-4-1, Chuo-ku, Tokyo 103-8001, +81 03 3241 3311, http://www.mitsukoshi.co.jp/store/fcs/english/1010/index.html), one of the most exclusive department stores in Tokyo. We arrived just in time to watch the opening ceremony at 10 a.m. during which the store staff welcomed arriving guests with deep bows. My favorite area of the beautiful and well stock multi-story store was the lower level where the food shops were located. It was filled with all types of hard to find eatable items including pastries, seafood, meat, chocolate, vegetable and fruit delicacies. I could have spent at least another hour exploring the food halls and tasting samples.

Another view of the city from the Mori Tower

From there we went to the Mori Tower in Roppongi Hills for an outstanding skyscraper view of Tokyo (http://www.roppongihills.com/tcv/en/ ). That morning we visited Tokyo Midtown, walked by the Mori Art Museum (http://mori.art.museum/eng/index.html) dedicated to promoting “art and life in the 21st century,” and the Suntory Museum of Art (http://www.suntory.com/culture-sports/sma/) dedicated to challenging conventional attitudes to the classification of art to reveal its beauty.

A display at the food hall of the Mitsukoshi Nihonbahi store

Lunch was at Rakutei (+81 3585 3743), a tiny family owned restaurant in Akasaka. Although there was no sign on the building to indicate the existence of a restaurant once inside we were welcomed in Japanese and invited to enter. We sat at a small counter facing an open cooking area. At first it looked like a sushi bar but we soon discovered it was not. An elderly man and his assistant were busy preparing the meal while the man’s wife placed dinnerware in front of us and offered us beverages. We had warm sake and a delicious tempura lunch served two bites at a time until we surrendered.

The interior of the National Art Center in Tokyo

After a lightning fast visit to the National Art Center (http://www.nact.jp/english/index.html ), a 14,000 square meter large venue for temporary art exhibitions, we ended the day with a stroll in a Ginza district shopping street. Ginza, meaning place where money is made in Japanese, is one of the most popular and most expensive tourist shopping areas of Tokyo, our tour guide explained.

A dragon water fountain in Shuzenji Village

After breakfast the next morning we drove to Shuzenji, a two and a half hour drive from Tokyo, for an overnight stay at Yagyu-no-sho, a traditional Japanese ryokan. By the time we had a tour of the traditional style ryokan, found our rooms and explored the area by the ryokan it was time for dinner and we retreated indoors.

A stone head at the entrance to the Shuzenji Temple

The next day our visit to a local pottery artist’s shop was canceled providing an unexpected opportunity to stroll through Shuzenji Village, exploring the shops and visiting the interior of the Shuzenji Temple, a rare treat before our return home.