By Elena del Valle, photos by Gary Cox

Naples was one of the stops in a spring multi-city trip we made to Italy earlier this year. Although in past years my travel partner and I had visited the region more than once, it was the first time we stayed in the coastal city. We arrived by train from Rome on a bright and sunny Tuesday at lunchtime to discover a lively and colorful city.

On a clear day we could see Mount Vesuvius from our hotel

Within minutes we had maneuvered through the heavily trafficked central area to the quieter port district where our modern 10-story glass fronted hotel stood. The interior was art filled and cool. We relied on Only in Naples, a 107-page book of favorite places at our hotel, and staff recommendations to plan our discovery of the city. An hour after we stepped off the train we had settled comfortably in our hotel suite and gone for a two-hour walk near the hotel and on Via Francesco Caracciolo, a busy water hugging road where many of the tourist hotels were located. The sky was a perfect Mediterranean blue although outdoors and by the sea it was chilly and breezy. On our way back we stopped at the Gran Caffe Gambrinus in the San Giuseppe area of the city center where we had Neapolitan snacks and espresso.

Cafe Gambrinus in Naples

That night we went to Pizzeria Sorbillo (Via dei Tribunali, 32, 80138 Naples, Italy, telephone +39 081 446643, in Italian‎ www.accademiadellapizza.it/), where we had the most delicious pizza we have ever tasted in a two-story pizza shop in the old town. We arrived at the third generation restaurant founded by Gino Sorbillo in 1935 in the early evening to find it was half full. We sampled three pizzas which we washed down with beer. By the time we finished dinner the restaurant was full and there was a line of people on the street in front of the entrance waiting to be seated. Our host, who lives in Naples, explained it was like that every day. With our bellies full and a smile on our faces we walked in his amiable company back to our port fronting accommodations.

Pizzeria Sorbillo

The following afternoon we went walking again. This time we found Gay-Odin Fabrica di Cioccolato (Via Toledo 427, Naples, Italy, telephone +39 081 551 3491, in Italian www.gay-odin.it) described in our book as the city’s premier chocolate makers. We stopped at a shop near the big shopping center, one of nine Gay-Odin stores in Naples and one each in Rome and Milan. The artisan chocolate makers sold a variety of the hand made chocolates in individual pieces and varying package sizes. Although the bite size morsels drew my eye it was rather hot that afternoon and we were concerned the chocolate would not hold out very long. We purchased a small Foresta made with milk chocolate with the intention of returning to buy more if we liked them. As it turns out we did like it and it quickly disappeared. Unfortunately, we never had a chance to return. Next time…

The streets of Naples were vibrant with shoppers and street vendors

The following afternoon, Gaia Montuoro, public relations and events manager at our hotel, invited us to see her hometown. In her company we visited more of the old town. We descended below ground level to see ancient ruins dating to Roman and Greek times at the Complesso San Lorenzo Maggiore. The archeological site that was discovered beneath the church, convent and cloister by the same name is a street three meters wide by 60 meters long surrounded by an ancient Roman market. Under the Roman ruins history lovers discovered older Greek remains. In places we could see the colored tiny tiles which, Gaia explained, likely represented wealthy residences. It was one of our favorite stops. More information, in Italian, at www.sanlorenzomaggiorenapoli.it/

Ancient ruins underground in Naples

On our way to the Greco-Roman ruins we stopped in Ferrigno (Via San Gregorio Armeno 55, www.arteferrigno), the shop of an artisan nativity figurine maker before we were caught in an afternoon shower that sent us running in search of an umbrella and shelter. Giuseppe and Marco Ferrigno carry on a tradition that has been going on for nearly 200 years. They and their employees make some 500 rather elaborate terracotta, wood and silk nativity scene figurines. With the owner’s permission (spring is not a popular time for nativity figure purchases so the interior was dark) we visited the two-story shop where hundreds of figurines up to 40 centimeters tall were on display.

Lifelike Nativity figurines

After we exited the San Lorenzo Maggiore ruins we stopped at the alchemist chapel or Cappella Sansevero (Via Francesco De Sanctis 19/21, 80134, Naples, Italy, telephone +39 081 5518470, info@museosansevero.it). The small space was crowded, perhaps especially so because of the rain outdoors. It housed religious art including two sculptures that stood out, The Veiled Christ by Giuseppe Sanmartino and The Veiled Truth. It was the basement that had drawn a crowd requiring us to wait for them to conclude their visit. They were observing the two anatomical exhibits of the skeletons and circulatory system of a man and a pregnant woman, Anatomical Machines, thought to have been the result of treatments on live humans; it appears scientific analysis indicates the specimens were made with iron wire, silk and wax. More information, in English, at www.museosansevero.it/index_ing.html

We then stopped at the working study and art gallery of one of Naples’ sons, Lello Esposito, a friendly artist known for his distinctive Neapolitan themed work. We were invited in to browse. As we walked through his art gallery (Palazzo Sansevero Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, 80134, Naples, Italy, lelloesposito.com, info@lelloesposito.com) we saw large distinctive and bold sculptures. Esposito, who had exhibited his art internationally and lived in New York for several months, welcomed us in Italian and shared his hope to one day prepare a United States themed exhibit.

Lello Esposito with one of his artistic creations

That evening after we recovered from our extended walks we stopped at Zero Sushi Bar, a sushi bar with a Japanese chef, on the ground floor of our hotel. The few bites we had were yummy and left me craving more sushi until a few minutes later we made our way to Il Comandante for a surprisingly delicious tasting menu.

Every outing and every meal we had in Naples was surprisingly satisfying. Starting with our comfort oriented luxury suite with a view at the Romeo Hotel and the staff’s warm welcome and guidance our visit to Naples was a great success. We look forward to a return visit.

By Elena del Valle, photos by Gary Cox

Lacco Ameno in Ischia

This spring while we visited Ischia, an island off the west coast of Italy in the Tyrrhenian Sea we stayed at L’Albergo della Regina Isabella hotel. Our last night on the island we had an unexpected and delicious gourmet dinner at the hotel. Although Ristorante Indaco, the hotel’s gourmet restaurant, was closed for renovations we were able to sample an Indaco Tasting Menu in the hotel’s main restaurant. Chef Pasquale Padamaro, a native of Ischia, and his staff prepared an exceptional meal which we enjoyed along with a splendid night view of the Lacco Ameno town and nearby coast.

Handmade breadsticks and appetizers

To start there was a welcome bite of Piadina con prosciutto crudo San Daniele; also cheese, breadsticks with sesame and bread, Ricotta di bufala e acciughe di cetara, Grissini al sesamo, and Streghe. Octopus and fish tartar: Polpo alla piastra e fagioli; Antipasto tartar di palamito al basilico e cipollina le uova e il fegato alla genovese, colatura di insalata di pomodori piccatilli were next. For first courses we had: pasta with shrimp and basil sauce (a favorite), Linguine di giacomo santoleri al farro e orzo con pesto di basilico e scampi; and tiny raviolis, Cappeletti di mantecato di pezzogna con patate e provola.

Monkfish with shrimp

The second course was a monkfish with perfectly cooked shrimp, Medaglione di pescatrice agli aromi e lardo di colonnata con passata di rucola e senape e gamberoni appena scottati. Pre-dessert was Centrifugato di avvogato e jogurt magro with chocolate followed by a strawberry medley dessert of strawberry cone, strawberry ice cream, and baignet of wild strawberries, Il Viaggio del pasticcere. A tray of bite sized baked sweets accompanied our hot beverages at the end of the meal.

Our server, the chef and the maître d’hôtel

Carmine, our server, spoke English and translated the menu each time a course arrived. The pretty dinnerware that varied with each course, artistic presentation of the food including tiny flowers on the plates and an island wine to match the meal, Pigna Nera Tommasone 2006 (although it was too stout for the delicate flavors of our dinner it would have been a worthy accompaniment to a bold winter menu) rounded out the experience. The next time we visit Ischia we look forward to another dinner at the newly renovated Indaco restaurant. Click here to read about our stay at L’Albergo della Regina Isabella.

By Elena del Valle, photos by Gary Cox

Frankfurt was our gateway to Germany's Black Forest

Earlier this year, my husband and I had an opportunity to visit the famed Black Forest and nearby areas of southwestern Germany. We were pleased to discover several small family owned and managed hotels, part of the Romantik chain of 200 independently owned and managed hotels and restaurants in 11 European countries, offering comfortable and modern accommodations including some with spa facilities. We were especially delighted with the friendly and welcoming hosts and their staff, striking scenery and outstanding foodie havens we visited during our two-week drive through the countryside.

Although neither of us speaks German we had visited that European country in the past and were confident we would have a pleasant trip. In past trips to Germany most of the business people we encountered spoke some English so we were surprised to discover that once we veered off the urban core of Frankfurt, English was scarce. So we made do with our few phrases of German and many smiles. Almost without exception locals made us feel welcome with their warm and friendly attitude. Whether it was fellow guests, staff or strangers in public areas someone was always willing to listen to our broken German and communicate with us.

A quiet area at Bollant's Spa

Petit fours at Passione Rossa

After landing in Frankfurt and picking up our spiffy German rental car with heated seats (it was late winter/early spring and definitely cold) and global positioning system (GPS), we headed to the village of Bad Sobernheim where we spent two nights recovering from the jet lag and being pampered with good food and spa time at the Romantik Hotel BollAnt’s im Park, Bollant’s Spa at at BollAnt’s im Park Romantik Hotel and Vital Spa and Passione Rossa restaurant.

Jörg Glauben and Birgit Neumueller at Tschifflik restaurant

We also visited the Romantik Hotel Landschloss Fasanerie on the outskirts of the town of Zweibrucken near France. Once again we took advantage of the property’s spa services and sampled its outstanding local and continental cuisine. Before leaving we had a gourmet dinner at the well known Tschifflick.

The lobby at Residenz am See in Meersburg

A delicate fish course at Casala

Behind the scenes at Residenz am See

From there we headed south through snow covered mountains to Meersburg, a small and picturesque village with cobblestone streets on the shores of Lake Constance. We thoroughly enjoyed our brief stay in a penthouse suite at the Romantik Hotel Residenz am See, one of our favorite properties during the trip for sheer friendliness, a well appointed suite and delicious food. While we were there we attended a German pastry baking class in German. With the help of our small group of fellow students and the pastry chef’s interjections we learned a little and had a fun morning baking delicious regional and German treats. Meals at the hotel restaurants including dinner at Casala Restaurant, were outstanding!

The Romantik Hotel Sackmann Spa pool

One of the delicious dishes we tried at the Restaurant Schlossberg

From there we returned to the Black Forest to the Romantik Hotel Sackmann in the municipality of Baiersbronn. We especially liked the hotel’s riverside location, gourmet restaurant and fabulous spa facilities.

We would recommend the region to scenery, spa and gourmet food oriented friends and acquaintances willing to venture to areas where English is not commonly spoken. As an added bonus this part of Germany offered great value for money compared to urban areas in Europe.

Article by Elena del Valle and photos by Gary Cox

The dining room at Myoga

Nestled within the Vineyard Hotel and Spa grounds in a pleasant residential neighborhood on the outskirts of Cape Town, Myoga (60 Colinton Road, Newlands, Myoga.co.za, +27 21 657 4545) offered tasty Asian fusion dishes in a pretty garden side setting. An open kitchen design allowed us to see the staff at work on one side and take advantage of the terrace view of our window side table.

The bar

The decor of the 100-seat restaurant was young and chic with an Asian flair. Highlights included wood floors, orange, black, and wood colors, chandeliers and metal table tops. The funky bathroom had video screens in the stalls with a live feed from the kitchen. Myoga, named for the Japanese word for ginger blossom, was one of three owned by Chef Mike Bassett, well known for Ginja, a Cape Town restaurant.

Myoga chef at buffet table

Although we were tempted by the lunch buffet with hot and cold options, we ordered a la carte. There was a healthy size wine list including many options of wine by the glass. Our server, Tami, was friendly and shared input on the menu options. We tried a glass of the Simonsig Brut Rose 2006 Cap Classique sparkling wine to match our East meets West appetizer selections: a delicious spinach pastry and potato accompanied by yummy sauces.

Myoga appetizer

For mains we had the Chicken Tikka which was delicious and rather hot; Chiken Pie which was especially savory thanks to a secret ingredient (black truffle oil); and Chicken Curry with mustard and a very mild blueberry chutney.

The pineapple dessert

For dessert, we had a chocolate plate with dark chocolate and tart blackberry sorbet, and a delicate pineapple dessert with dehydrated pineapple slices, mascarpone ice cream and rhubarb soup. It was a pleasant meal, well served and in a relaxing verdant setting. Anytime we’re near Myoga again we will consider a stop.

Article and photos by Elena del Valle

Agave Restaurant in Summerlin, Nevada

Agave Restaurant (10820 West Charleston Blvd., 702.214.3500, AgaveLasVegas.com) in Summerlin, a wealthy suburb of Las Vegas, was fun for a yummy Mexican style lunch and a sampling of fine tequilas. Located within a typical strip mall, it was hard for my transport service (I decided not to drive since we had planned a tequila tasting) to miss the bright facade. There was ample seating indoors and in the restaurant’s enclosed outdoor area. We sat indoors directly across from the pretty bar.

The entrance to Agave

Agave, named for the agave plant from which tequila is made, was decorated with iron and wood entrance doors, imperfect tile on the walls, and hand blown colored glass made by artisans from the Guadalajara region. It was colorful inside and out.

Inside Agave

We invited the chef, Antonio Mejia, to show off his favorite mild recipes and he sent enough food for a Guadalajara village: Freshly Made Guacamole with dungeness crab meat; Portabella Mushroom Tamal; Chile Braised Short Rib Taquitos; Spiced Chicken al Carbon Empanadas and my favorite, Shrimp and Crab Stacked Enchiladas.

Lunch and tequila at Agave

The restaurant offers 89 different tequilas as part of its Tequila Flight Club. Although I pleaded tequila tasting ignorance right away, a patient bar tender shared insights on tequila making and history as well and suggestions on how to maximize the experience. It was best not to place my nose directly in the tequila glass to avoid the strong alcohol fumes. Instead, by using my hand to coax the tequila essence when I moved the glass I could gently appreciate the nuances of the individual tequilas, he explained.

We sampled one each from the Silver, Rested and Aged tequila options respectively: Tequila 7 Leguas, house Casa Noble, and Don Julio 1942. I tried not to look at the labels but, perhaps because I generally prefer smoky, smooth aged spirits, my favorite, hands down, was the Don Julio 1942.

The chef and bar manager, aficionados of the agave liquor, went to the city of Tequila, Mexico. While there they were the first people to ever purchase a barrel of tequila from Casa Noble, which according to the restaurant representative, is a very prestigious hacienda. The barrel was then bottled, numbered, and signed and now the restaurant sells it to its clientele – that was the house tequila we sampled.