Article and photos by Josette King

The M/Y Grace at anchor in a secluded cove of the Galapagos archipelago

After a 1,000-kilometer flight over empty Pacific Ocean waters, the AeroGal Airlines jet was preparing to land on San Cristobal, the easternmost island of the Galapagos Archipelago. The few returning locals were already gathering their belongings. Meanwhile, we the tourists were craning our necks to catch a first glimpse of the islands. The plane banked, revealing under its wing a zigzag of rocky coastline, punctuated by an occasional crescent of white sand; and no discernible sign of human life. Another turn unveiled a dazzling panorama of ancient volcanic peaks and dark rock formations emerging from an impossibly blue sea. All this natural splendor, and we hadn’t yet landed.

Galapagos sea lion

Once we did, I discovered another unique characteristic of the islands: the sense of undeniable entitlement of its wildlife. Even in the center of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, the tiny provincial capital of the Galapagos adjacent to the airport, birds and reptiles and especially sea lions treated our presence with superb indifference. The later, enjoying their siesta sprawled on the boat dock, didn’t even twitch as I squeezed by to board the panga (local inflatable zodiac-type skiff) that was to take me to the Motor Yacht Grace.

San Cristobal landing

My first glance at the elegant lines of this classic yacht was a special thrill. It brought back fantasies I had shared with an entire generation of French schoolgirls half a century before. Its owner was Prince Rainer III then, and it was named the Deo Juvante (Latin for with God’s help) after the motto of the house of Grimaldi, the rulers of the tiny French Riviera principality of Monaco for almost a millennium. For a few weeks in 1956, it had been front page news on French magazines and movies screens: the prince, sailing to meet the ocean liner USS Constitution to welcome his fiancee, the American movie star Grace Kelly; then the following week, Prince Rainer and the now Princess Grace boarding the yacht again for a seven-week honeymoon. Throughout the spring, there had been images of the yacht anchored in the most romantic destinations around the Mediterranean. Now this glamorous vessel was to be my home for a seven-night cruise around the Galapagos Archipelago, royal matrimony not required.

The shaded fresco dining area at the rear of the main deck

The yacht, renamed the M/Y Grace in homage to its most illustrious owner, is now the property of Quasar Galapagos Expeditions. Its owner Eduardo Diez, a man with a passion for classic yachts, oversaw a two-year, $2.5 million overhaul of the ship, while preserving its distinctive lines. The Grace, newly outfitted with a state-of-the-art stabilizer system to ensure smooth sailing on the open waters around the Galapagos islands, a large hot tub on the sundeck, modern bathrooms in each of its nine staterooms and air conditioning throughout, began operations in the spring of 2009. While I admit that it was the prospect of sailing on the Grace that propelled my desire to visit the Galapagos “some day” to the top of my travel wish list, the understated luxury of the vessel turned out to be merely the setting for a unique wilderness adventure. With only seven passengers and a crew of 10 on board, our naturalist guide, Rafael Pesantes Aguirre (Rafa for short) quipped that our odds for mutiny were unpromising.

Red footed booby

But between the attentive pampering of the friendly staff and the exhilarating daily discoveries of the cruise, mutiny was the last thing on my mind. The exceptional itinerary took us to remote places rarely visited by larger ships. And Rafa, a third generation native of the islands and an ornithology graduate from San Francisco University in Quito, coupled an encyclopedic knowledge of the natural wonders of the area with the familiarity of one who has swum since childhood in the crystal clear waters of its most secluded coves. Our land excursions were filled with close encounters with some of rarest wildlife on the planet. We wandered on powdery white beaches shared only with colonies of sea lions and hiked along black lava rock paths to observe at close range the courtship ritual of Nazca boobies and waved albatross.

Fernandina marine iguana

We rode our panga along the edge of vertical cliffs dotted with blue-footed boobies and tiny Galapagos penguins, and watched frigate birds and brown pelicans nosedive for their breakfast. For me the highpoint of the day was invariably our snorkeling expedition. In island after island, Rafa led us to the most exotic marine life I have ever observed. I swan surrounded by so many giant sea turtles that it was a challenge to get out of their way. I observed a hammerhead shark, mercifully unconcerned by my presence; and I can now boast that I was personally pecked by a flightless cormorant! Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review to read more about my Galapagos Archipelago cruise aboard the M/Y Grace.

Sally Lightfoot crab

Article and photos by Josette King

Hoatzin birds were a frequent sight near the lodge

“Stop, stop!” I sputter, too excited to keep my voice down. Fabian, the local park ranger who is paddling, doesn’t speak English but he gets the idea and brings the canoe to a smooth halt. Roberto, my Ecuadorian guide who speaks English fluently, looks at me askance. He has just pointed out a large bird perched in the dense jumble of rainforest. It looks like a chicken with too much turquoise eye shadow and a bad hair day. “The bird,” I exclaim. “Yes, it’s a hoatzin,” he reiterates matter-of-factly. He clearly fails to grasp the importance of the moment. So does the bird, which has by now been joined by two of its friends. They are engaged in a croaky argument while heartily tucking into the foliage. I feel compelled to explain that on a previous Amazon visit, a thousand miles downriver from here, I had once spent a whole week, including a half-day hike in the waterlogged underbrush, in search of a hoatzin. And I had only managed to hear its distinctive cry and ponderous take off as it vanished into the forest canopy. “We have lots of hoatzins here,” Roberto assures me after I have photographed these to my heart’s content, and for good measure a rare rufescent-tiger heron that has been observing the proceedings from a nearby stump.

The king size bed was draped in mosquito netting

We resume our slow way upstream under an arch of tangled mangroves and palms, along the narrow channel that connects the Napo River, one of the most important tributaries of the Amazon, to Anangucocha Lake. We are in the heart of 21,400 hectares (82 square miles) of conservation land located on the ancestral territory of the Kichwa Anangu community, in the northwest corner of Ecuador’s Yasuni National Park. The park is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve regarded by scientists as one of the most bio-diverse areas on the planet. Several notable sightings later, including a tree-toed sloth and my first ever monk saki monkey, we reach the lake. On its far side, the shore is dotted with the thatched-roofed, bright ocher adobe bungalows of the Napo Wildlife Center luxury eco-lodge.

My bungalow had a shaded terrace overlooking the lake

Set into some of the most pristine rainforest environment I have ever visited, the lodge is designed to meet the high expectations of international tourists for wilderness accommodations. It features attractive bungalows with private terraces overlooking the lake, modern bathrooms, round the clock electricity and WiFi connection throughout the property. Strategically located observation towers at the lodge and in the forest offer a unique perspective of the abundant wildlife around the lake and above the forest canopy. My wildlife viewing is exceptional, not only for its abundance and variety but because of the excellence of the guiding. At the lodge, guides come in pairs: a bilingual, state-licensed guide and a native Yasuni Park-licensed ranger who also acts as a local guide, sharing his knowledge of plants, medicinal plants and Kichwa traditions. One evening, they take me on a nighttime canoe ride in the swamps near the lodge, with a special spotlight to view nocturnal creatures.

Coffee was served around the clock in the main hall

Beyond the excellence of accommodations and wildlife viewing opportunities, a highpoint of my visit is the opportunity to observe first hand the positive impact of the Napo Wildlife Center on the daily life of the Anangu people. The lodge and conservation land are wholly owned and managed by the Kichwa Anangu community. They are the keystones of a far-reaching program to improve the quality of life of the people and preserve the integrity of their ancestral territory and culture while providing them with sustainable employment. Most of the staff comes from the community. Their pride in the Napo Wildlife Center is palpable, and translates into warm and attentive service. Additionally, while the life of the community is separated from tourism activities, one hour downstream from the lodge, I see women welcome guests to the Interpretation Center facility adjacent to their village. It is especially rewarding to be able to connect with them (with Roberto as interpreter) as they introduce me to the tasks of their daily lives as well as their traditional Kichwa crafts and dances.

An Amazon forest dragon

I am gratified to hear of the rigorous sustainable tourism practices implemented by the Napo Wildlife Center program. Profits are reinvested within the community, with education and healthcare as major priorities. The center also returns a share of the annual profits to each family and provides a stipend to the elderly. To limit the lodge’s impact on its environment, it has implemented an environmentally sustainable sewage system, with waste waters treated to high standards before being released into the swamps. Trash is kept to a minimum and composted whenever possible. What is safe to burn is burned and buried, with the remainder transported to designated landfills outside the park. And these practices have been extended to the Anangu community at large, for a cleaner, healthier living environment.

A striated heron

The Napo Wildlife Center is also engaged in a strong anti-poaching program, with its conservation land patrolled by community rangers employed and equipped by the lodge. The Napo Wildlife Center was recognized in 2009 with the Rainforest Alliance Community Sustainable Trend Setter Award, and the Best Jungle Lodge Award from the Latin American Travel Association at the World Travel Market in London, U.K. And it is becoming a model for other sustainable tourism community projects throughout Ecuador.

The banks of the Napo River were a tangle of dense rainforest

And by the way, Roberto was right. We came across so many hoatzins during my four-day visit that by the time I left, I barely spared them a glance. Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review to read more about my stay at the Napo Wildlife Center.

Article and photos by Elena del Valle

Dominica is lush and tropical

For most people thoughts of a Caribbean island stay bring forth visions of a vacation spent lazying on powder white sand beaches, gazing at turquoise waters and drinking rum punches served beachside with cute paper umbrellas. One of the reasons I liked Dominica was because it was, for the most part, devoid of such attractions. The highlights of my week long visit to Dominica, a lush green underdeveloped island, without luxury or chain hotels, sandwiched between Martinique and Guadeloupe in the eastern Caribbean, were centered around the island’s natural landscapes and beautiful views.

With the help of Justine, my guide from the Jungle Bay Resort & Spa, I hiked to Victoria Falls

For the active minded there were waterfalls, lakes, hiking paths, and hot springs to discover. As a nature lover I liked the possibility of spotting indigenous fauna and exploring the greenery within hundreds of miles of hiking trails that traversed the island. During my off season visit in addition to hiking, I visited waterfalls, a beach, a gorge, lakes, and rivers. One night after dinner at the pretty Rosalie Bay Resort, I was lucky to see turtle hatchlings crawl from the beach to the Atlantic Ocean.

Kurnel Simon, native guide and driver

With the services of Kurnel Simon, a native guide and driver, (Transcendent Tours 3222 Canal Hill, Massacre, + 767 449-3969, kurnicb5@hotmail.com) I saw some of the island’s best known attractions. His patient demeanor, excellent driving skills (driving, on the left along narrow two lane roads, required a sportsman’s attitude in Dominica where many of the roads were under repair or in need of repair) and can do attitude enhanced my experience. Because it was off season the island was pleasantly quiet.

The spa at Jungle Bay looked out on the Atlantic Ocean

In terms of accommodations, I divided my time between the east and west coasts on the southern end of Dominica. First I stayed at the Jungle Bay Resort & Spa at Pointe Mulatre. Although there were many things I enjoyed at the ocean front hill property the one that will stay with me the longest was the sound of the pounding surf from the comfort of my non air conditioned room (the lack of noise from an air conditioner made it possible to hear the sounds of the surf clearly), poolside and at the water facing restaurant.

There were many hiking trails in Dominica

Justine, a native of a nearby village, was my guide on a four hour hike to Victoria Falls organized by the Jungle Bay staff. Although the hike tested my resolve more than once and served to showcase Justine’s patience it was a worthwhile way to discover that part of the island. We encountered no souls during the hike and the only sounds we heard were those of nature, the river and the waterfalls.

My guide in the Carib Cultural Village by the Sea in Kalinago Barana Aute

To reach the falls, it was necessary to traverse through natural trails, mostly unmarked and often slippery, through pebble and boulder strewn areas, and cross the Victoria Falls River on foot numerous times through strong currents that reached waist high more than once. I fell multiple times although the only major injury was to my pride. Thanks to Justine’s kind nature and our joint perseverance we made it to the edge of the falls (the rocks at the end segment were too steep except for billy goats in human guise and Justine) and back.

The Emerald Pool was a popular swimming and tourist destination

The next day was dedicated to the Emerald Pool and the Carib Cultural Village by the Sea within the Kalinago Barana Aute (Crayfish River, Carib Territory, +767 445-7979, fax +767 445-7533, www.kalinagobaranaaute.com, kbamanager@cwdom.dm) on the eastern coast of the island. Sunday was consumed with tours of the Cabrits National Park and the scenic Indian River followed by a drive through Portsmouth, the second largest town on the island, and a hunger satisfying beachfront lunch at Le Flambeau Restaurant at the Picard Beach Hotel on the northwest corner of the island. I took a moment to walk out on the dock in front of the hotel and made a mental note to return to that part of the island if ever I had a desire for an understated beach with clear water. On our way south to Roseau, the capital where I would stay for the remainder of my visit, we drove along the scenic coastal road.

The Fort Young Hotel is on the water

After checking in at the waterfront Fort Young Hotel in the heart of town, I had an early dinner. The following day, I visited the lovely Trafalgar Falls, the Freshwater Lake and Titou Gorge. Mother Nature scheduled nonstop rain all day, helping to keep the island verdant. Because the Lake was enveloped in thick fog and it was chilly we minimized our time there. We carried on with most of the itinerary although we discovered Screw’s Sulfur Spa, the last stop for the day, was closed that week. We attempted to visit another hot spring facility at the last minute with little success.

One of many Waitukubuli National Trail signs

The Waitikubuli National Trail was the island’s claim to fame for hiking. A 3.5 hour hike of Segment 1 of the Trail from Scotts Head to Soufriere was scheduled for the next morning. We were slightly delayed due to some difficulty locating my hiking guide. After collecting him at a nearby village Kurnel Simon dropped us at the beginning of the hiking trail and we set off on the “easy” hike. Although I felt pleased with myself at the end of the hike it confirmed what I suspected following the Victoria Falls hike: that what the Dominicans described as an easy hike would be considered challenging or difficult for me and most of the hiking aficionados, save the most fit and hard core, I know.

The famed Indian River

Snorkeling the next morning was canceled at the last minute by the snorkeling company. Since we had little time to make alternate plans before the afternoon whale watching excursion we visited the botanical gardens and drove up the hill to enjoy a panoramic view of Roseau.

A vessel of the Anchorage Whale Watch & Dive Center

We went whale watching with Anchorage Whale Watch & Dive Center (The Anchorage at Castle Comfort, P.O. Box 34, Roseau, +767 448-2638, fax +767 440-2639, www.experience-dominica.com). After a safety briefing and discussion on whales and dolphins at the hotel where the company operates its tours, 14 of us, 11 passengers and three crew members (Captain Francis Charles, Dave Fabien and Eddie Joseph), went aboard the Miser’s Dream. The 60-foot catamaran motorboat built in 2000 and licensed for a maximum of 50 passengers was comfortable and spacious. Although we struck out on whales (which they see 80 percent of the time, according to the crew) we were delighted to come across spinner and spotted dolphins, a less common find in those waters. After motoring north and south along Dominica’s west coast some three miles from shore and spending 90 minutes under gray and heavily overcast skies we returned.

Crew members aboard the Miser’s Dream

Discovering the island’s natural treasures drew me to Dominica for the first time. Its stunning natural scenery, off the beaten track unspoiled character, genuine locals, simple organic meals and the possibility of discovering more of the Nature Island’s hidden beauty including some water attractions like snorkeling, diving and a second try at whale watching would draw me back.

Article and photos by Josette King

My room offered a sweeping view of the Manhattan skyline

When visiting New York City, I have a special fondness for Lower Manhattan, the southernmost and oldest part of the city. Although the area has gradually become gentrified in recent decades, the original ethnic neighborhoods have endured (think China Town and Little Italy). And within them new ones have emerged, such as SoHo (SOuth of HOuston Street), NoHo (NOrth of HOuston Street), TriBeCa (TRIangle BElow CAnal Street); and my new favorite, Nolita (NOrth of Little ITAly). Once considered part of Little Italy, Nolita has retained its lived-in cosmopolitan atmosphere and human scale. Here, traditional wrought-iron fire escapes still run down the façades of century-old brick apartment buildings. But old-time bakeries and utilitarian warehouses now mix with trendy shops and restaurants, and most recently, the newly opened The Nolitan Hotel.

The Empire State Building dominated the view from my room

In a town where boutique hotels often emerge from old buildings, The Nolitan grew from the ground up on what was a parking lot at the corner of Kenmare and Elizabeth streets. I loved the low-key luxury and laidback atmosphere of its light-filled lobby and lounge. With its plate glass façade and open plan, it was an inviting spot to linger and enjoy the dynamic street scene unfolding outside. My upper floor room was equally welcoming. The custom-designed contemporary furnishings and minimalist décor made for a comfortable urban retreat that was just the right setting for the jaw-dropping view. The panoramic perspective reached across the neighborhood rooftops, all the way to the Midtown Manhattan skyline dominated by the towering Empire State Building and the Art Deco spire of the Chrysler Building.

Katz Delicatessen

The Nolitan was ideally located to offer an easy all-around Manhattan experience. It was just a few minutes’ walk from the colorful chaos of Chinatown, the hip downtown shopping of SoHo and the popular delis of the Lower East Side (Katz’s Delicatessen of When Harry met Sally fame was a few blocks away on Houston Street). And when I felt like joining the Midtown crowds for a look at the famed Rockefeller Center Christmas tree (I visited in early December), or catch a Broadway show, a quick, direct subway ride whisked me there, and back home to the Nolitan faster than I could have hailed a cab. Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review to read more about my stay at The Nolitan Hotel.

Article and photos by Elena del Valle

Part of the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh

When I visited Cambodia the last time I much enjoyed seeing Phnom Penh and Siem Reap and their salient tourist features in the company of an English speaking private guide. In Phnom Penh, my guide escorted me to Wat Phnom, a hill temple, the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, the National Museum, the Killing fields, the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum and one of the city markets. My tours and activities were organized by or held at the Raffles Hotel Le Royal in Phnom Penh and the Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor in Siem Reap where I stayed while in Cambodia. I was especially pleased that everyone was punctual and courteous without exception.

One of the many exceptional statues at the Angkor Wat temples near Siem Reap

In Siem Reap, where I had more time, the hotel proposed a variety of activities in house and within the city. At the hotel, I attended a cocktail tasting, tea with a hotel historian, a palm tree demonstration, a wine tasting at Le Grand Wine Cellar with the sommelier and hotel manager, a lotus plant demonstration, a private sunrise visit to Angkor Wat by jeep, a buffet dinner and Apsara Dance Performance, and a visit to Phra Ong Check Phra Ong Chom temple with Mouth Saravann, resident services manager and butler of the hotel.

Lotus flower based drink demonstration and tasting

In addition, I attended a private Khmer cooking class including a visit to the Siem Reap market with Samreth Thai, junior sous chef of the hotel and my cooking instructor that day. Maing Meng Seap, the pastry chef, joined us for the important (for me) dessert course of the cooking class.

A demonstration during the cooking class

Following the cooking class, I had the pleasure of enjoying the meal we learned about in class, prepared by the hotel staff, in the hotel restaurant. And, to help me recover from all the excitement I indulged in a few spa treatments at the hotel’s Amrita Spa.

Samreth Thai, junior sous chef, and Maing Meng Seap, the pastry chef, at the Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor

Royal Khmer Cuisine book I received at the cooking class

One night, after a wine tasting at the hotel’s cozy “cellar” I enjoyed a cultural performance and dinner at the Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor in Siem Reap. The buffet dinner and performance offered copious quantifies of food, a variety of dishes and a live Khmer traditional dance performance. While I liked the food what I enjoyed the most was the performance. A group of young Khmer dancers performed six distinct pieces reflective of the traditions and fables of several regions: Ladies Bouquet, Coconut Shells Dance, Golden Mermaid (Part of the Ramayana), Tea Harvest Dance, Bokator (the Angkorean Martial Art), and Apsara Dance.

Apsara dance performance at the Raffles in Siem Reap