By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox

The entrance to Fairlawns

Tucked within a high end neighborhood in South Africa’s busy metropolis the Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa offered a myriad amenities desirable to tired travelers like us. While we were familiar with several airport hotels which were more convenient the pretty grounds and luxury features of the Fairlawns appealed to us. As I sat on the grueling 15-hour flight from Atlanta, Georgia to Johannesburg, South Africa I dreamed of the comfortable bed, spacious bathroom with a shower and bathtub, quiet ambiance, and room service I would enjoy on arrival. We had stayed at the property previously and were confident it would serve our needs on this brief one night visit (see Pretty Johannesburg boutique hotel, spa in quiet residential neighborhood).

The Villa Suites building

We requested an airport pick up in advance to avoid the hassle of a car rental since we planned to be in the city less than one day. As we exited the busy arrivals hall at the airport I spotted our driver easily. We rode in air conditioned comfort into the city and less than an hour later we had settled into our accommodations for the night at the 40-room four acre hotel with 60 staff. Although the hotel restaurant and its new chef were a draw after so many hours of travel what I yearned for was a simple salad or sandwich while sitting comfortably in my bathrobe following a decadently hot shower or luxuriant bath.

A view of the restaurant at night

The Toulouse Suite, Suite 39 in the Villa Suites building, delivered all that I had longed for on the flight and more. It was the first time we stayed at the Villas Suites, the newest of the buildings at the property, built behind and to the right of reception before the much anticipated 2010 World Cup.

The Toulouse Suite

Our Deluxe Suite had the varied decorative touches and many luxury amenities we had liked in the past such as embroidered linen, stocked mini bar, and fruit plates. The 82 square meter room, one floor up from the ground floor via an elevator or a spiral staircase, was kept at a comfortable temperature with individually controlled air conditioning (and underfloor heating in the winter months).

The bathroom was large with tub and shower

It was furnished with two double beds resting against off white fabric headboards and topped with a crisp white duvet with the Fairlawns logo. Although the room had an unremarkable view to a service walkway on the side of the building it was blissfully quiet, the most attractive feature for us the night we arrived. Double curtains covered the windows, providing privacy at night and shade from the fierce daytime sun. Antique style wood and marble top tables with matching glass bottomed lamps served as night tables. To one side there was an antique style wood desk with a beige stool where we set our computer and electronics during our stay.

A comfortable seat and snacks

On the floor a putty colored carpet felt soft against our tired stockinged feet. Should we wish to make a call there were handheld wireless and regular phones. While we waited for room service to deliver our dinner order we sampled the fruit plate and a plate with mixed nuts and tasty biltong (South Africa dried beef) courtesy of the hotel. In the mini refrigerator there was complimentary cold still mineral water, juice and two dried mango snacks.

A view of the room from the corner next to the bathroom

In front of the bed, on the right side of the single ambiance room, there was a putty colored sofa atop a white rug facing a glass topped wood coffee table. Across from the table was an entertainment section with a Hi Sense flat screen television in the center and the mini bar to the lower right. Antique framed silk birds and landscapes adorned the walls and in the center, an elaborate chandelier with a porcelain flower motif hung from the ceiling. There was a stand alone wood armoire where we hung some of our clothes after the bell hop set our suitcases on the large luggage rack near the entrance.

The Villa featured pretty common areas

The next morning we awoke refreshed and ready to face the day. There was complimentary coffee and tea service on the first floor across from our suite. After checking emails with the complimentary WiFi services I headed to the spa for a work out (there was a spacious fitness section with treadmills, exercise machines and free weights within the spa building, I remembered from past visits). Next we enjoyed the lovely breakfast buffet and hot made to order options. On the long table, covered with a cloth to keep the flies off, there were fresh fruit plates, breads and pastries, jams, yogurt, cheese, salmon, and deli meats. The staff were friendly and attentive.

The pool area at Fairlawns

From our window side table we had an expansive view of the central lawn and pool area. I felt like I could have stayed there the whole morning. Instead I donned by bathing suit and lounged poolside for the better part of an hour. I even managed a swim in the chilly water. While chatting with a fellow guest one of the staff from breakfast walked down to check on us, politely offering beverages and snacks. We had both had our fill at breakfast and declined.

The dining room at breakfast looking out over the property

While I was at the pool a kind staff person ironed my linen clothes and by the time we left I looked rested and presentable, a concept that was hard to imagine while I was breathing stale air on the airplane less than 24 hours earlier. That rested state is one of the reasons the Fairlawns Boutique Hotel and Spa (91 Alma Road, off Bowling Avenue, Morningside, Gallo Manor, Sandton 2052, Johannesburg, South Africa, +27 11 804 2540/1/2/3, +27 11 808 7300 or +27 73 481 7734, http://www.fairlawns.co.za/, fairlawn@fairlawns.co.za) remains on our list of favorite boutique hotels in Johannesburg.

By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox

The Saba Tourist Bureau

I loved Saba, a small Dutch Caribbean island, for its unspoiled and picturesque character. What this volcanic Leeward Island lacked in size it made up for in beauty, natural features and sheer determination. For example, the islanders were told by experts in Holland early last century that it was not possible to build a road due to the steep incline of the mountains. Refusing to accept that ruling one man took a correspondence course and with the help of his fellow islanders built the beginning of what today is called simply The Road.

A plaque to Josephus Lambert Hassell, engineer of the road

With a population of less than 1,500 and diminutive (it occupies five square miles), the tourist attractions were mainly scenic, we expected before visiting the island. Cars were scarce in Saba. We had a few hours to see what we could while our ship, the SeaDream I, stopped there and we intended to make the most of it. With a little help from the crew we were able to find a taxi, the only one available that day apparently. The driver, a friendly Irishman who had relocated to Saba only a few months earlier with his van (the windows in the rear of the van did not open we later discovered with disappointment), explained that he would be pleased to show us around the island if we were willing to share space and wait for him.

Saba in the foreground and remote islands on the horizon

Six of us shared the van up the narrow and steep roads. He dropped two of our group at the entrance to a hiking trail (they reported having a wonderful time later when we met up aboard the ship) before leaving us in The Bottom, the island’s main urban area. He would take care of local customers (many of the medical school students were going on vacation and there was a wedding the next day) who had booked his services already and return for us about 90 minutes later.

We stopped at this church with a view

When he returned he had a glass of fresh made fruit juice with us before the four of us climbed into his van to see the sights. Minutes later we felt transported back in time when we stopped at a small church with a million dollar view. Although the church was closed there was a kind lady running a simple small cash only shop behind the church. She sold handmade lace in the tradition and style of Saba, a dying art, our driver shared as we departed having bought one of the treasured lace pieces.

The tiny Saba airport

From there we drove downhill toward the waterfront island airport. On our way back our driver showed us the house he rented as we drove by it on way back toward The Bottom and the dock where we had arrived.

Cute little houses and flowers dotted the hills

Earlier while we waited for our guide and driver to return we had made our way around the hilly village, picking up tips and information at the tourist office where a friendly staff person welcomed us, passing a cafe and small indoor market and walking up a steep hill toward JoBean Glass unsure if it was open for business. Our efforts were rewarded when we arrived at the un-airconditioned shop and found it open. A shy young lady inside said we were welcome to browse around at our leisure. Every surface, every corner of the shop was filled with glass items, many made from Venetian glass, we later found out from the friendly owner who popped by for a few minutes.

JoBean Chambers demonstrating a technique to fashion colorful glass jewelry

JoBean Chambers, a lively and vivacious American woman who had lived and worked on the island for many years, showed us the glass pieces she was making for the wedding we had heard about, and gave us a brief glass making demonstration. Watching her flame work the thin and colorful glass tubes it seemed easy to create pretty seahorses, turtles, frogs, fish, mermaids, dive flags, starfish and other attractive shapes. She would heat and swirl the glass quickly and easily (for her), then attach another piece of glass in a different color to the incipient shape, adjusting the width and style along the way. In moments we could distinguish a multicolored frog and after that a mermaid. It was hard to imagine the glass melts at temperatures of more than 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit.

Many of her glass creations were sea creatures

A fan of hot glass since 1989 she had learned her skills, in part at El Vetro in Venice, Italy where she studied, according to her website, with Lucio Bubacco and Vittorio Constantini. Her work was exhibited in art galleries in the United States and the Caribbean, including the Corning Museum Shop. She offered glass workshops in her hillside studio for up to five students at a time. Next time we visit Saba maybe we will take one of her workshops.

Our visit to Saba was a special treat and one of my fondest memories from our week long Caribbean cruise. This was in part because of the pretty hillside houses in the small towns, the old style lace sold behind the church, our shared taxi tour and fun stop at JoBean Glass Art Studio (Booby Hill, Windwardside Saba, Dutch West Indies,+ 599 416 2490,www.jobeanglassart.com, jobean@jobeanglassart.com).

By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox

The SeaDream I

Last December we spent a week aboard the SeaDream I making our way between small Caribbean islands. As with the European SeaDream II voyage we took in the past what we liked most was the intimate ambiance, gourmet offerings and service orientation of the all-inclusive luxury voyage.

A great spot for morning coffee near the Top of the Yacht bar

We were half full with 54 passengers and nearly a full crew compliment of 94 aboard the 344 feet long vessel with a 47 foot beam. Although our ship was small and offered a limited variety of entertainment options compared to the mega cruise ships with scores of decks, multiple restaurants and facilities and thousands of passengers and crew that now pepper the oceans it was the perfect size for a small group such as ours. While there were fewer activities than aboard larger vessels there were enough options to meet our desires. We were pleased to relax and meet some of the other passengers at happy hour, meal times and between shore excursions.

Our cabin on the SeaDream I

One of the hallmarks of SeaDream is service. When we arrived at the dock on our way to the ship, as we were exiting our taxi, an energetic young man from the ship, in uniform, approached us and introduced himself purposefully. He immediately coordinated the delivery of our luggage and escorted us through the security point. That kind of friendly and efficient service was repeated on board. That first impression set the tone for the remainder of the trip.

Welcoming bubbly on ice

The size of the group and ship offered myriad advantages we enjoyed. Aboard the ship there were never crowds, lines or reservations necessary for meals. Staff and even fellow guests could often easily recognize each other. Nearly all the staff we encountered greeted us and other guests by our names during that week.

On the beach in Anguilla

At anchor we were often the only large vessel at the places, several of them off-the-beaten-path islands, we visited. As we walked along the beach in Sandy Ground, Anguilla a local couple we spoke with commented that it was rare to see ships in that area. In Saba, we heard from the crew and the locals that often inclement weather prevented access to the island and few large ships stopped there. Although the weather had been dubious at times Lady Luck smiled upon us that day, making it possible for us to explore the tiny and picturesque Dutch island.

The SeaDream I tender heading out to the yacht

Another benefit we appreciated were the speedy and comfortable shore transfers within covered tenders. We became aware of the difference when observing fellow passengers from a similar ship embarking and disembarking, partly wet, from their ship’s dinghy when we went ashore completely dry and in the superior shelter and comfort of our small water craft.

Grilled lobster tail on a bed of vegetables

What we noticed and many experienced cruise aficionados in our group shared with us was how special the meals were aboard SeaDream I. Food, as is common aboard cruises, was abundant. Meals, often plated and prepared a la minute, were outstanding. Gilles de Cambourg, executive chef, Ferenc Béres Molnar, pastry chef, Pablo Raschetti, sommelier, and the dining service staff went the extra mile to ensure our meals were delicious and well served, every time. There was even a celebrity chef from the United Kingdom, Levi Root, spicing things up aboard that week. The quality standards extended to room service meals. Twice we ordered from the in-room dining menu; both times the dishes were well prepared, well presented and served within minutes of our order.

A favorite breakfast and lunch dining spot

We will keep Sea Dream yachts at the top of our list for luxury, laid back, all-inclusive, service and gourmet oriented intimate sea voyages and recommend them to friends who share our appreciation for cozy luxury voyages. Click here to read more about our week in the Caribbean aboard SeaDream I.

By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox

The entrance to One Flew South in Terminal E, Atlanta airport

I asked John from Missouri, our server, what he would order if it was up to him and he said one of each item on the menu. I knew we had to narrow it down from there and keep it light as we were facing a five hour layover before boarding a 15-hour flight to Johannesburg, South Africa. A few minutes later we settled on Pork Belly Sliders (two in a shared order), Cauliflower and Parsnip Soup, Seaweed Salad, Benton’s Bacon “BLT” and a Salmon Hot Pot from the mains. That turned out to be a lot of desirable food. We washed that down with glass bottles of Saratoga Springs still water and iced tea. We liked that John brought a carafe (and refilled it during our meal) with extra iced tea and a glass with large ice cubes so the iced tea was always plentiful and chilled.

The BLT with emphasis on the bacon

While we waited for our order to arrive I looked more closely at the uncrowded restaurant. We sat in the back of the room at a small table with a stone top and a gray runner in the middle on metal and white cushioned half back chairs. One side of the room faced the main area of Concourse E of the Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, one of the busiest concourses in one of the busiest airports in the nation. Although it was possible to see the concourse through wood slats for a brief while we forgot we were at an airport.

The Seaweed Salad

One wall was papered with a forest motif. Modern urban music played in the background and although we arrived in between meal times a few guests were scattered around the restaurant and sushi bar. It had been crowded earlier, our server told us. One man sat against the window with a chilled bottle of wine and his laptop. A woman with a British accent sat facing away from us toward the restaurant entrance. In the corner a man ate while he spoke on his cell phone. At the nearest table there was a couple.

Pork Belly Sliders were decadent and tasty

The first items to arrive were the sliders and the soup. As John set the soup, in a white soup bowl atop a matching square base, before me the scents of cauliflower and paprika wafted to my nose. A swirl of paprika oil and a handful of crunchy pumpkin seeds perked up the subdued cauliflower color of the soup. It was just the right temperature and the flavor combination worked. My lunch partner’s eyes sang with joy when he bit into the pork belly slider. When my turn arrived I too was delighted. The slider was outstanding. The flavorful bun had just the right texture and tasted homemade. The pork belly was alternately crunchy and soft and the sweet barbeque sauce rounded everything together, dripping gently onto the plate. Crispy sweet potato shavings served as tasty garnish and a sweet gherkin was attached to each slider with a natural toothpick.

The salmon resting on its rice island in the miso soup

The BLT sandwich and salmon arrived next. The salmon itself was tender, perfectly cooked and delicious. It sat on a rice bed with tofu, vegetables and miso soup. The base of the salmon dish won over one fan at the table. The bacon part of the Bacon, Lettuce and Tomato Sandwich was king. Our server told us the chef makes his own bacon; and it was delicious. The sandwich, garnished with shredded lettuce and small slices of tomato, had a strong smoky bacon flavor. The focaccia bread was a match for the contents and a truffle mayonnaise took the bacon flavor to the next level. Thin five flavor French fries in a bowl picked up any hunger slack. Yum.

The “OFS” Banana Pudding

I didn’t think I could eat any more until I tasted the “OFS” Banana Pudding that John confidently recommended when we asked about dessert. Fresh whipped cream (with a real homemade texture and taste) with crunchy sweet crumbles made up the top layer. Below the cream there were layers of fragrant and creamy banana pudding. It was just what we needed to complete the meal.

The sushi bar set next to a wall of the restaurant

The food alone was worth a return visit. Hats off to Executive Chef Duane Nutter and his staff. The setting and the service complimented the meal well. We had hoped to stopped at the restaurant on our way back home but we barely managed to make our connection. Should we find ourselves with enough time for a meal while connecting flights in Atlanta in the future we will return at the first opportunity. An 18 percent gratuity, the menu indicated, was automatically included in the bill. John earned his and then some. One Flew South (Concourse E, Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, Atlanta, Georgia, +1 404 816-3464, fax +1 404 816-3467, www.oneflewsouthatl.com).

Article by Laura Scheiber
Photos by Matthew Harris

Coopers Beach, Southampton

When I moved to New York City years ago, a friend advised me that the only way to survive the City’s hectic lifestyle was to get out once a month. I couldn’t agree more. A weekend in Southampton, New York, was the perfect combination of a tranquil and easy getaway in an upscale setting with natural beauty and interesting local history. Because we went in the fall, we were able to enjoy the many delights of this famous retreat for the rich and famous, without the notorious summertime crowds.

Located on the southeastern end of Long Island, New York, Southampton is one of a number of prestigious villages collectively known as the Hamptons. The village was the first English settlement in the state of New York, dating all the way back to 1640;  and as I soon learned, one of its most charming attributes was its rich history.

Bruce Michael, our enthusiastic tour guide

We arrived Friday evening after a two and half hour train ride from Penn Station, New York. The next day was a beautiful sunny but blustery fall day, and we were excited to discover the many treasures of this exclusive village. We met Bruce Michael, a local resident and tour guide, who led us on a fascinating historical journey of Southampton (Bruce Michael Guided Tours, 327 Central Park West Apt 2C, New York, NY 10025, +1 917 623 6602, http://www.discoverlongisland.com/visitors/more-info.aspx?cli_number=6727&major=, BruceMK@aol.com). What we liked about Bruce Michael as a tour guide was his genuine enthusiasm for the area, as well as the historical insight he provided about the high society families that have resided in Southampton over the last two centuries. We started in the center of town on Jobs Lane, a picturesque tree-shaded street lined with upscale boutiques.

The Parrish Art Museum

Our first stop was the Parrish Art Museum (25 Jobs Lane, Southampton, NY 11968, +1 631 283 2118, fax +1 631 283 7006, http://parrishart.org/, info@parrishart.org). Founded in 1897 by Samuel Longstreth Parrish, a discerning art collector, the museum has since housed a permanent collection of over 2,600 pieces by prominent artists who have lived or worked in the area, including Jackson Pollock, Roy Lichtenstein, William Merritt Chase and Fairfield Porter. Select works were displayed throughout the year in the museum’s changing exhibitions.

Rogers Mansion, headquarters of the Southampton Historical Museums and Research Center

After leaving the Parrish Art Museum, we walked up the street to a beautifully preserved Greek revival style home called Rogers Mansion, the headquarters of the Southampton Historical Museums and Research Center (17 Meeting House Lane, Southampton, NY 11969, +1 631 283 2494, fax +1 631 283 4540, www.southamptonhistoricalmuseum.org, info@southamptonhistoricalmuseum.org). We explored a handful of period rooms decorated in original furnishings, paintings and books of the home, originally built in 1843 for a wealthy whaling captain. I was particularly moved by the display of photos and newspaper articles describing the 1938 New England hurricane that devastated the area and was responsible for over 600 deaths in Long Island and southern New England. Just behind the mansion was the Old Southampton Village, made up of historic structures, such as a blacksmith’s shop, a paint shop and a colonial-era barn.

The Thomas Halsey Homestead

Next, we hopped in a van and visited the Thomas Halsey Homestead, just outside of the center of town (249 South Main Street, Southampton, NY 11969, +1 631 283 2494, fax +1 631 283 4540, http://southamptonhistoricalmuseum.org/museummain.asp?id=3). Built circa 1660, it is believed to be the oldest English-style house in New York State. We walked through the carefully curated rooms filled with original 17th and 18th century artifacts, such as open hearth cooking tools, a spinning wheel, and religious propaganda aimed at converting Native Americans.

The Thomas Halsey Homestead, living standards have changed a lot since 1660

The final stop on our tour was Coopers Beach, a beautifully manicured sandy white beach, roughly 1.8 miles from the center of town. The pristine beach was virtually empty, which made for a tranquil setting. Simply breathing in the fresh seaside air while watching waves crash along the seashore had a calming effect on me.

Heading back to the center of town, we drove down a grid of well-groomed streets lined with palatial mansions. Manors surrounding Lake Agawam had bragging rights to some of the most expensive real estate in the United States, and served as summer homes to some of America’s most prestigious families. The two-hour historical tour served as an excellent introduction to some of the village’s most important historical sites and captured my imagination of earlier times in Southampton.

The Driver’s Seat Restaurant

After the tour we enjoyed lunch at the Driver’s Seat Restaurant (66 Jobs Lane, Southampton, NY 11968, +1 631 283 6606, fax +1 631 283 6607, http://www.thedriversseatrestaurant.com/The_Drivers_Seat_Restaurant/Home.html, driversseatrestaurant@gmail.com). The ambiance was a pleasant mix of laid back pub with upscale touches, including a fresh bouquet of roses on every table and white-linen table clothes. We had a friendly chat with the owner, who made us feel welcome. The food was tasty and satisfying. I appreciated the varied and reasonably priced menu, particularly in comparison to some of the other overpriced establishments we visited throughout the weekend.

Jobs Lane in the center of Southampton, home to elegant boutiques

We spent the rest of the afternoon casually strolling down Main Street and Jobs Lane, popping in and out of the many exclusive shops and boutiques. I liked that the diverse clothing stores, antiques, and high-end furniture and jewelry stores were within walking distance, making Southampton an elite shopper’s delight. Above and beyond shopping, the well-preserved historic architecture gave the area a colonial feel, added to its overall charm and made walking around the town center particularly pleasant.

Wolffer Estate Vineyard

Just before sunset, we took a 15-minute car ride to Wolffer Estate Vineyard (139 Sagg Road, PO Box 9002, Sagaponack, NY 11962, +1 631 537 5106, fax +1 631 537 5107, www.wolffer.com, info@wolffer.com). The Tuscan-style villa looked out onto 55 acres of beautifully landscaped vineyards. I felt as if we had been transported to a European winery somewhere in the countryside. Wolffer Estate offered tastings ranging in price from $12 to $18 for four distinct wines. Our tasting began with the 2010 Grandioso Rose, followed by the 2007 Sparkling Brut, Blanc de Blanc, the 2008 Perle Chardonnay, and the 2008 Caya Cabernet Franc. Each of the wines had a distinct and appealing flavor. I jotted down their names so I could ask my local wine shop to order the ones I had sampled. Upon leaving the vineyard, I could not resist purchasing a bottle of the 2008 Perle Chardonnay as a reminder of our pleasant visit to Wolffer Estate.

One of the perks of our weekend getaway was its close proximity to New York City and convenient transportation options. Because we did not want to rent a car, we took the Long Island Rail Road departing from Penn Station in New York City, a two and a half hour relaxed journey. Cabs were waiting for us on our arrival at the train station of Southampton. Hometown Taxi charged $10 for my travel partner and I to go to the center of town five minutes away (425 County Road 39A, Southampton, NY 11968, +1 631 287 5200).

By the end of the weekend, I felt refreshed and ready to return to the faster-paced lifestyle of New York City. Overall we had a delightful autumn weekend in Southampton. The hassle-free travel from New York City, and slow-paced setting of the upscale village with its rich history and diverse attractions provided a wonderful respite from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Article and photos by Elena del Valle

Artist Earl Darius Etienne

Earl Darius Etienne, one of the Dominica’s best known painters, loved art from an early age. For eleven years he created art in the Windward Island before studying at Edna Manley Art School in Jamaica. Today he experiments with unexpected techniques like kerosene torch and banana latex in search of new and distinctive styles. He describes his work style as social realism.

I first saw his work on the street in the town of Massacre on the island’s west coast where he was born in 1957. The large Massacre Mural commissioned in 1988 is considered by some to depict part of Dominica’s history and island life.

The Massacre Mural is on the main road in Massacre (click for larger view)

Later during my stay I had an opportunity to meet the artist for a few minutes thanks to an introduction by Kurnel Simon, his cousin and my guide on the island. Etienne was preparing to exhibit his paintings at an art gallery the following day. He chatted briefly, showed me a couple of his large paintings and discussed his innovative technique of painting with the aid of a flame.

The Kalinago Ritual was painted with fire

His work, originals and limited edition prints, was priced between $100 and $25,000 and was on exhibit at Tiffanys Art Gallery on the Canefield Highway next to the Old Mill Cultural Centre in Canefield and Everybody Gallery on Hillsborough Street in Roseau in Dominica. Online his art could be seen at earletienne.com/ and fineartamerica.com/profiles/earl-darius-etienne.html . For more about Dominica see My week in Dominica.

From all of us at Simon & Baker Travel Review and Luxury Travel Review

Article and photos by Josette King

Squam Lake panorama

I took to the hills this past summer, and discovered one of northern New England’s best-kept secrets. A merciless heat wave had settled over the Boston area like a steamy wet blanket. There was no end in sight. Thoughts of the Lakes Region, in the southern foothills of New Hampshire’s White Mountains, were getting more compelling by the day. I became particularly intrigued by Squam Lake. A large lake (the second largest in New Hampshire), secluded within densely forested shores, a short two-hour drive from my urban Massachusetts home, and I had never heard of it? I was on my way to what became a deliciously relaxing summer break.

The house made famous by the movie On Golden Pond

As I soon found out, the lake has been a favorite retreat from the heat of the cities to the south for wealthy New England families for generations. A number of them built summer homes in the lush hills and shores around the lake as early as the second half of the 19th century. Some of these have remained private homes to this day, while others have become welcoming bed and breakfasts and country inns. One of the latter was the exquisite The Manor on Golden Pond in Holderness (the largest of the villages scattered around the lake), which I had the good fortune to call my home on the lake for this impromptu summer escape.

Loons are a frequent sight on Squam Lake

Nestled among groves of ancient pines and rolling lawns on a slope overlooking the pristine waters of Squam Lake, the property was originally built in 1904 as a summer home for wealthy British businessman Isaac Van Horn. At a time when industrialists were building ever more extravagant summer residences, Van Horn opted for an elegant country manor that reflected his English heritage. Over the past decade, its current owners Brian and Mary Ellen Shields have lovingly restored the graceful stucco and wooden shingles home to its timeless old world elegance, albeit with the latest modern comforts and an intimate gourmet restaurant, the Van Horn Dining Room.

The Manor on Golden Pond

Another revelation was that I had previously heard of Squam Lake, under its Hollywood pseudonym. It was the setting for On Golden Pond, the award-winning 1981 film starring Katherine Hepburn and Henry and Jane Fonda. Little has changed on the tranquil lake in the past three decades, as I was able to ascertain on a memorable morning cruise with Cindy O’Learey, owner of Experience Squam, the only private boating excursion company on the Lake, aboard her slick 23 foot Sea Ray Bow-Rider. Captain Cindy has grown around her beloved lake; first spending her childhood summers there before permanently settling in Holderness with her own family. She was just a girl that summer thirty years ago, but old enough to remember every star studded instant of the filming. She took me past all the sights made famous by the movie. We stopped by the house, gazebo, fishing spots and the “jumping rock.”

Captain Cindy O’Leary at the helm of her speed boat

Children were still shouting with glee as they hurled themselves into the water. We went by a boat dock, “where Jane Fonda did her back flip. And she did on her first try, “ Captain Cindy reminisced. We continued on to “the place where they crashed the boat,” and I got to hear all the details of how it was accomplished. We then left Hollywood memories behind and headed to remote coves where loons fished to feed their young, and juvenile bald eagles were experimenting with the dynamics of flight.

A jumping rock on Squam Lake

A family was picnicking under the trees on one of the lake’s tiny islands, their boat secured on a sandbox-size beach. I regretted that I hadn’t allowed myself enough time to plan for a wilderness lunch. Although it was over too soon, my morning with Captain Cindy remains to my mind the ultimate way to experience Squam Lake. Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review to read more about Squam Lake, my stay at The Manor on Golden Pond and my dinner at the Van Horn Dining Room.

Article and photos by Josette King

When I headed for the verdant shores of Squam Lake on a recent summer road trip, my main purpose was to escape for a few days in the southern foothills of New Hampshire’s White Mountains the brutal heat wave that had been roasting New England for the previous couple of weeks. I hadn’t given much thought to food, and since it was my first visit to the area, I figured I would have to rely on word-of-mouth, sometimes a hit-or-miss proposition. This time was definitely a hit. My local hosts pointed me to some exciting eateries that in and of themselves would have justified my visit to the area.

The Corner House Inn in Center Sandwich

Although they differed widely in cuisine and atmosphere, my favorites turned out to have some significant commonalities: all were chef-owned, with unpretentious menus based on high-quality locally-gown organic products. And all were reasonably priced to boot.

The Corner House Inn

The Corner House Inn is located in a former inn

Built in 1849, the “house on the corner” managed to survive the Civil War and some major town fires to become the foremost eatery and boarding house in Sandwich. Current owners Don and Jane Brown acquired the property in 1981. Over the next two decades, Chef Brown’s cuisine drew an ever-larger following and one by one, the guest rooms were converted into dining space. I especially enjoyed the historic house surrounding and the room-sized dining areas that made for an intimate, casual atmosphere.

Chicken Rosa is a favorite dish at the Corner House Inn

I found it hard to get past the appetizer offerings. Should I have the lobster bisque (one of the Inn’s signature dishes) or the fried oysters with their aioli dipping sauce? But then, what of the crab cakes, and the intriguing sweet-potato polenta in roasted red pepper and orange ginger sauce? Mercifully, my understanding server arranged for a sampler of all. My espresso-cup size lobster bisque had enough bouquet to fill a bowl, and nuggets of fresh lobster aplenty. Each appetizer was beautifully executed and delicious. I especially enjoyed the oysters, each a soft morsel that had retained a hint of briny ocean taste within its crisp golden crust. Having also succumbed to the fragrant home baked bread and the delicate field greens salad with its light buttermilk-dill dressing, I felt already satiated. But there was still the imaginative Chicken Rosa, in a creamy white wine sauce, served on fresh vegetable ravioli. I could manage only a few bites. I was saving myself for the chocolate ganache terrine, served with a dollop of white chocolate mousse, and was glad I did. The Corner House Inn (15 Oak Street, Center Sandwich, New Hampshire, + 1 603 284 6219, http://www.cornerhouseinn.com/, info@cornerhouseinn.com)

Squam Lake Inn Café

Although the surroundings were decidedly New Hampshire, with a big red barn turned gift shop at the edge of the Inn’s parking lot and Walter’s Basin, Holderness’ main harbor, a short walk away, the atmosphere of the Squam Lake Inn Café channeled Napa Valley to me. On the deck, tables were neatly lined under two rows of green market umbrellas for al fresco dining, while inside, the light-filled dining room had the uncluttered charm of a garden porch. The menu, changed daily to take advantage of the best seasonal offerings from local organic farmers and freshly caught sustainable seafood, reinforced the impression. And in addition to the meat and fish dishes, the Café featured a number of tempting vegetarian options.

The Squam Lake Inn Café has scrumptious crab cakes

The wine list focused mainly on California wines, rounded with a few interesting foreign labels. The emphasis was on artisan wines from small production vineyards that favored sustainable farming. I was not overly surprised to discover in the course of the evening that the owners, Rea and Cindy, had relocated from Orange Country, California, when they purchased the Inn in 2003. Rea and daughter Taylor officiated in the kitchen while Cindy managed the dining room.

Glazed scallops at the Squam Lake Inn Café

I have a special fondness for fresh crab cakes, which I order at every opportunity. The ones served as my appetizer were exceptional. Two delicately seasoned patties of the freshest crabmeat, pan seared to a light gold, served with a tangy remoulade sauce. Perfection in simplicity. My dinner companion’s appetizer, a crisp mesclun salad with red onions, sliced almonds and crumbs of feta cheese, glistening with a light poppy seed dressing and garnished with slices of ripe peaches was another fine example of Chef Rea’s fresh and simple approach. My entrée of seared and lightly glazed scallops was served over sautéed baby spinach and grape tomatoes with just a hint of chopped mango. Light and satisfying, just right for a hot summer’s evening, as was my friend’s roasted portobello caps layered with artisan Vermont goat cheese, sliced tomato and basil, drizzled with a balsamic reduction. We finished our meal with a fruity wild strawberry sorbet and an ice cream sandwich of molasses spice cookie and ginger ice cream respectively. Squam Lake Inn Café (28 Shepard Hill Road, Holderness, New Hampshire, +1 603 968 4417, http://www.squamlakeinn.com/dining.html, stay@squamlakeinn.com)

Coyote Grill

Although not located in the immediate vicinity of Squam Lake, the Coyote Grill was warmly recommended to us and proved well worth the 30-minute drive to the nearby mountain sports resort of Waterville Valley. Chef Sean Stout, a graduate from Johnson and Wales Culinary Institute in Providence, Rhode Island, honed his skills in several fine restaurants around New England before he and his wife Barbara opened the Coyote Grill almost two decades ago. Chef Stout relied on local sources for his meats, fish, dairy products and produce. He developed menus that varied with seasonal availability and created his own recipes, adding an original twist to New England favorites.

Coyote Grill sole and grilled asparagus

I especially enjoyed my appetizer, a terrine of summer vegetables that would have been at home in a ratatouille Niçoise, but had been thinly sliced, stacked and baked with goat cheese, then served cold on a balsamic glaze. Meanwhile, my friend’s simple sliced heirloom tomatoes and fresh mozzarella took on a new dimension with its roasted garlic and fresh basil dressing. After several days of eating our way round the area, we fancied a somewhat light fare. My main course of pan-fried filets of sole drizzled with a tangy lemon butter sauce and served with grilled asparagus and yellow peppers was delicious, as was my friend’s grilled chicken breast on a pinwheel of finely diced vegetable rolled in a tortilla, also served with grilled asparagus. My desert was a gourmet take on the traditional strawberry shortcake, a fluffy genoise layered with pureed fresh strawberries and whipped cream; a lovely, light ending to an enjoyable summer’s meal. Coyote Grill (98 Valley Road, Waterville Valley, New Hampshire, +1 603 236 4919, http://www.wildcoyotegrill.com/, wcg@skisat.net)

Coyote Grill vegetable terrine appetizer

Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review to read more about Squam Lake and my stay at The Manor on Golden Pond

Article and photos by Elena del Valle

Angkor Wat temple

After exploring the best known and most interesting Angkor Wat temples (sometimes more than once) I longed to see a little more of Siem Reap and its environs. As I was pondering options I mentioned to the hotel manager at my hotel, the Raffles Hotel D’Angkor, my interest in cultural and artistic shops or activities. His suggestions and assistance led me to visit the Golden Silk Pheach farm (see Interesting, inspiring visit to Cambodia golden silk farm), the workshop of Eric Raisina, a Madagascar born and French educated textile designer, and the House of Theam, the shop and art gallery of Lim Muy Theam, a French educated local artist, the following day.

Sirivan Chak and Loic Dumas, owners, Galerie Cambodge

That day at my hotel I browsed the small shopping arcade. While I was enjoying afternoon tea the previous day I met Sirivan Chak and Loic Dumas, two of the three owners of Galerie Cambodge, a clothing and home furnishings store and my favorite shop there. It was distinctive in that unlike many stores in the city selling foreign made goods, 90 percent of the items in the boutique were made in Cambodia. The exceptions were Panama Hats (made in Ecuador) and stunning Burma lacquered bowls made from horse hair and 17 layers of lacquer, requiring six months to complete.

Items for sale at Galerie Cambodge

Bowls from Burma, one of my favorite items at Galerie Cambodge

The shop sold housewares, sandals, and casual men’s and women’s handmade clothes with Khmer touches integrated within the chic designs. Prices ranged from $16 for cotton bags to $630 for beautiful and soft golden silk wraps (a favorite). The owners, Nathalie Safon Ridel, an architect, Sirivan, a designer, and her husband Loic, a former production manager in the high tech printing industry, had moved to Siem Reap from Paris, France. I liked their original designs with  Cambodian elements and monk-blessed yuoan talismans. I appreciated that they used natural dyes, and natural fibers and followed responsible tourism and fair trade practices, buying products and working with small and family owned producers as well as supporting local non profits. Galerie Cambodge (Raffles Hotel D’Angkor shopping arcade, +855 (0)12 855 204, www.galeriecambodge.com)

Eric Raisina, textile designer and shop owner

Eric Raisina arrived in Siem Reap in 1996 and fell in love with the area. By 2001 he had based his business in the city and by 2004 he had opened his first shop. When I met the silk textile designer he had two shops in Siem Reap and one in Phnom Penh. The villa shop I visited (by appointment only) housed a showroom sandwiched between a workshop on one side, where a half a dozen seamstresses worked on bright and colorful silk fabrics, clothes and accessories, and a dye section on the other.

Silk clothing at the Eric Raisina shop in Siem Reap

“My main focus is really silk because in my country we do have beautiful silk, fantastic and really soft,” said the energetic and tall designer as he walked me around the ground floor showroom and shop in one of the city’s premier residential areas. “I thought this material is really magical.”

Bright colors and soft silks predominated at Eric Raisina’s shop

What I liked most about his fabrics in addition to the bright colors and whimsical and unexpected textures was the amazing softness of the silk fabrics. Prices ranged between $29 for a scarf to $545 for a travel blanket (my favorite). Villa Boutique Worship (Kot Chork, Siem Reap, Kingdom of Cambodia, +855 (0) 63 963 207, +855 (0)12 580 283 www.ericraisina.com, info@ericraisina.com).

Staff working at the Theam’s House workshop

Cambodian art at Theam’s House

I arrived at Theam’s House late in the day, tired, hungry (there had been no time for lunch) and wet from an afternoon of seasonal downpours. Maddy Lim, the Cambodian artist’s sister who had recently quit her job to dedicate her time to the art gallery, welcomed me with a smile. A few moments later she introduced me to Lim Muy Theam, the artist and man behind the shop, and his enthusiasm rubbed off on me. The former artistic director of Artisans d’Angkor had attended the École Boule and the École des Beaux-Arts de Paris before returning to his homeland. He now lived, worked and exhibited his art in the same building. During my visit, he described his artistic style and showed me around the back-of-the-house workshop where his staff were hard at work and the public space where finished artwork was on display.

The gallery was filled with colorful art in varied sizes and shapes. The most distinctive were the oversize acrylic paintings due to be included in the Season of Cambodia exhibit in New York City in 2013. There were also lacquered paintings (starting at $500), bronze and stone sculptures, even cotton scarves from Phnom Srok. The most popular, he said in response to my question, where his souvenir elephants and Buddhas. He was planning on making one thousand Buddhas. Theam’s House (No.25, Phum Veal, Khum Kokchak, Siem Reap Angkor, +855 -0- 12 71 20 39, +855 -0- 78 20 81 61+855 -0- 97 89 855 39, www.theamshouse.com, theamshouse@yahoo.com, info@theamshouse.com)

A section of one of the oversize paintings

Late the following morning I took a break from attractions and shopping excursions and scheduled a half day Champagne Spa package at Bodia Spa, a day spa near my hotel. There’s nothing like spa therapy following shopping therapy, I say. The friendly spa ladies spoke English, the spa facilities were quiet (I was the only guest when I arrived) and pretty with water features in a courtyard garden, the treatments were nice and the bubbly, gently chilled, was served with a bowl of fruit. Bodia Spa adjacent to the Heritage Suites Hotel (behind Wat Polanka, + 855 63 762 428, www.bodia-spa.com, contact@bodia-spa.com )

My treatment included a flower filled tub, fresh fruit and a half bottle of champagne