From all of us at Simon & Baker Travel Review and Luxury Travel Review

Article and photos by Josette King

Squam Lake panorama

I took to the hills this past summer, and discovered one of northern New England’s best-kept secrets. A merciless heat wave had settled over the Boston area like a steamy wet blanket. There was no end in sight. Thoughts of the Lakes Region, in the southern foothills of New Hampshire’s White Mountains, were getting more compelling by the day. I became particularly intrigued by Squam Lake. A large lake (the second largest in New Hampshire), secluded within densely forested shores, a short two-hour drive from my urban Massachusetts home, and I had never heard of it? I was on my way to what became a deliciously relaxing summer break.

The house made famous by the movie On Golden Pond

As I soon found out, the lake has been a favorite retreat from the heat of the cities to the south for wealthy New England families for generations. A number of them built summer homes in the lush hills and shores around the lake as early as the second half of the 19th century. Some of these have remained private homes to this day, while others have become welcoming bed and breakfasts and country inns. One of the latter was the exquisite The Manor on Golden Pond in Holderness (the largest of the villages scattered around the lake), which I had the good fortune to call my home on the lake for this impromptu summer escape.

Loons are a frequent sight on Squam Lake

Nestled among groves of ancient pines and rolling lawns on a slope overlooking the pristine waters of Squam Lake, the property was originally built in 1904 as a summer home for wealthy British businessman Isaac Van Horn. At a time when industrialists were building ever more extravagant summer residences, Van Horn opted for an elegant country manor that reflected his English heritage. Over the past decade, its current owners Brian and Mary Ellen Shields have lovingly restored the graceful stucco and wooden shingles home to its timeless old world elegance, albeit with the latest modern comforts and an intimate gourmet restaurant, the Van Horn Dining Room.

The Manor on Golden Pond

Another revelation was that I had previously heard of Squam Lake, under its Hollywood pseudonym. It was the setting for On Golden Pond, the award-winning 1981 film starring Katherine Hepburn and Henry and Jane Fonda. Little has changed on the tranquil lake in the past three decades, as I was able to ascertain on a memorable morning cruise with Cindy O’Learey, owner of Experience Squam, the only private boating excursion company on the Lake, aboard her slick 23 foot Sea Ray Bow-Rider. Captain Cindy has grown around her beloved lake; first spending her childhood summers there before permanently settling in Holderness with her own family. She was just a girl that summer thirty years ago, but old enough to remember every star studded instant of the filming. She took me past all the sights made famous by the movie. We stopped by the house, gazebo, fishing spots and the “jumping rock.”

Captain Cindy O’Leary at the helm of her speed boat

Children were still shouting with glee as they hurled themselves into the water. We went by a boat dock, “where Jane Fonda did her back flip. And she did on her first try, “ Captain Cindy reminisced. We continued on to “the place where they crashed the boat,” and I got to hear all the details of how it was accomplished. We then left Hollywood memories behind and headed to remote coves where loons fished to feed their young, and juvenile bald eagles were experimenting with the dynamics of flight.

A jumping rock on Squam Lake

A family was picnicking under the trees on one of the lake’s tiny islands, their boat secured on a sandbox-size beach. I regretted that I hadn’t allowed myself enough time to plan for a wilderness lunch. Although it was over too soon, my morning with Captain Cindy remains to my mind the ultimate way to experience Squam Lake. Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review to read more about Squam Lake, my stay at The Manor on Golden Pond and my dinner at the Van Horn Dining Room.

Article and photos by Josette King

When I headed for the verdant shores of Squam Lake on a recent summer road trip, my main purpose was to escape for a few days in the southern foothills of New Hampshire’s White Mountains the brutal heat wave that had been roasting New England for the previous couple of weeks. I hadn’t given much thought to food, and since it was my first visit to the area, I figured I would have to rely on word-of-mouth, sometimes a hit-or-miss proposition. This time was definitely a hit. My local hosts pointed me to some exciting eateries that in and of themselves would have justified my visit to the area.

The Corner House Inn in Center Sandwich

Although they differed widely in cuisine and atmosphere, my favorites turned out to have some significant commonalities: all were chef-owned, with unpretentious menus based on high-quality locally-gown organic products. And all were reasonably priced to boot.

The Corner House Inn

The Corner House Inn is located in a former inn

Built in 1849, the “house on the corner” managed to survive the Civil War and some major town fires to become the foremost eatery and boarding house in Sandwich. Current owners Don and Jane Brown acquired the property in 1981. Over the next two decades, Chef Brown’s cuisine drew an ever-larger following and one by one, the guest rooms were converted into dining space. I especially enjoyed the historic house surrounding and the room-sized dining areas that made for an intimate, casual atmosphere.

Chicken Rosa is a favorite dish at the Corner House Inn

I found it hard to get past the appetizer offerings. Should I have the lobster bisque (one of the Inn’s signature dishes) or the fried oysters with their aioli dipping sauce? But then, what of the crab cakes, and the intriguing sweet-potato polenta in roasted red pepper and orange ginger sauce? Mercifully, my understanding server arranged for a sampler of all. My espresso-cup size lobster bisque had enough bouquet to fill a bowl, and nuggets of fresh lobster aplenty. Each appetizer was beautifully executed and delicious. I especially enjoyed the oysters, each a soft morsel that had retained a hint of briny ocean taste within its crisp golden crust. Having also succumbed to the fragrant home baked bread and the delicate field greens salad with its light buttermilk-dill dressing, I felt already satiated. But there was still the imaginative Chicken Rosa, in a creamy white wine sauce, served on fresh vegetable ravioli. I could manage only a few bites. I was saving myself for the chocolate ganache terrine, served with a dollop of white chocolate mousse, and was glad I did. The Corner House Inn (15 Oak Street, Center Sandwich, New Hampshire, + 1 603 284 6219, http://www.cornerhouseinn.com/, info@cornerhouseinn.com)

Squam Lake Inn Café

Although the surroundings were decidedly New Hampshire, with a big red barn turned gift shop at the edge of the Inn’s parking lot and Walter’s Basin, Holderness’ main harbor, a short walk away, the atmosphere of the Squam Lake Inn Café channeled Napa Valley to me. On the deck, tables were neatly lined under two rows of green market umbrellas for al fresco dining, while inside, the light-filled dining room had the uncluttered charm of a garden porch. The menu, changed daily to take advantage of the best seasonal offerings from local organic farmers and freshly caught sustainable seafood, reinforced the impression. And in addition to the meat and fish dishes, the Café featured a number of tempting vegetarian options.

The Squam Lake Inn Café has scrumptious crab cakes

The wine list focused mainly on California wines, rounded with a few interesting foreign labels. The emphasis was on artisan wines from small production vineyards that favored sustainable farming. I was not overly surprised to discover in the course of the evening that the owners, Rea and Cindy, had relocated from Orange Country, California, when they purchased the Inn in 2003. Rea and daughter Taylor officiated in the kitchen while Cindy managed the dining room.

Glazed scallops at the Squam Lake Inn Café

I have a special fondness for fresh crab cakes, which I order at every opportunity. The ones served as my appetizer were exceptional. Two delicately seasoned patties of the freshest crabmeat, pan seared to a light gold, served with a tangy remoulade sauce. Perfection in simplicity. My dinner companion’s appetizer, a crisp mesclun salad with red onions, sliced almonds and crumbs of feta cheese, glistening with a light poppy seed dressing and garnished with slices of ripe peaches was another fine example of Chef Rea’s fresh and simple approach. My entrée of seared and lightly glazed scallops was served over sautéed baby spinach and grape tomatoes with just a hint of chopped mango. Light and satisfying, just right for a hot summer’s evening, as was my friend’s roasted portobello caps layered with artisan Vermont goat cheese, sliced tomato and basil, drizzled with a balsamic reduction. We finished our meal with a fruity wild strawberry sorbet and an ice cream sandwich of molasses spice cookie and ginger ice cream respectively. Squam Lake Inn Café (28 Shepard Hill Road, Holderness, New Hampshire, +1 603 968 4417, http://www.squamlakeinn.com/dining.html, stay@squamlakeinn.com)

Coyote Grill

Although not located in the immediate vicinity of Squam Lake, the Coyote Grill was warmly recommended to us and proved well worth the 30-minute drive to the nearby mountain sports resort of Waterville Valley. Chef Sean Stout, a graduate from Johnson and Wales Culinary Institute in Providence, Rhode Island, honed his skills in several fine restaurants around New England before he and his wife Barbara opened the Coyote Grill almost two decades ago. Chef Stout relied on local sources for his meats, fish, dairy products and produce. He developed menus that varied with seasonal availability and created his own recipes, adding an original twist to New England favorites.

Coyote Grill sole and grilled asparagus

I especially enjoyed my appetizer, a terrine of summer vegetables that would have been at home in a ratatouille Niçoise, but had been thinly sliced, stacked and baked with goat cheese, then served cold on a balsamic glaze. Meanwhile, my friend’s simple sliced heirloom tomatoes and fresh mozzarella took on a new dimension with its roasted garlic and fresh basil dressing. After several days of eating our way round the area, we fancied a somewhat light fare. My main course of pan-fried filets of sole drizzled with a tangy lemon butter sauce and served with grilled asparagus and yellow peppers was delicious, as was my friend’s grilled chicken breast on a pinwheel of finely diced vegetable rolled in a tortilla, also served with grilled asparagus. My desert was a gourmet take on the traditional strawberry shortcake, a fluffy genoise layered with pureed fresh strawberries and whipped cream; a lovely, light ending to an enjoyable summer’s meal. Coyote Grill (98 Valley Road, Waterville Valley, New Hampshire, +1 603 236 4919, http://www.wildcoyotegrill.com/, wcg@skisat.net)

Coyote Grill vegetable terrine appetizer

Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review to read more about Squam Lake and my stay at The Manor on Golden Pond

Article and photos by Elena del Valle

Angkor Wat temple

After exploring the best known and most interesting Angkor Wat temples (sometimes more than once) I longed to see a little more of Siem Reap and its environs. As I was pondering options I mentioned to the hotel manager at my hotel, the Raffles Hotel D’Angkor, my interest in cultural and artistic shops or activities. His suggestions and assistance led me to visit the Golden Silk Pheach farm (see Interesting, inspiring visit to Cambodia golden silk farm), the workshop of Eric Raisina, a Madagascar born and French educated textile designer, and the House of Theam, the shop and art gallery of Lim Muy Theam, a French educated local artist, the following day.

Sirivan Chak and Loic Dumas, owners, Galerie Cambodge

That day at my hotel I browsed the small shopping arcade. While I was enjoying afternoon tea the previous day I met Sirivan Chak and Loic Dumas, two of the three owners of Galerie Cambodge, a clothing and home furnishings store and my favorite shop there. It was distinctive in that unlike many stores in the city selling foreign made goods, 90 percent of the items in the boutique were made in Cambodia. The exceptions were Panama Hats (made in Ecuador) and stunning Burma lacquered bowls made from horse hair and 17 layers of lacquer, requiring six months to complete.

Items for sale at Galerie Cambodge

Bowls from Burma, one of my favorite items at Galerie Cambodge

The shop sold housewares, sandals, and casual men’s and women’s handmade clothes with Khmer touches integrated within the chic designs. Prices ranged from $16 for cotton bags to $630 for beautiful and soft golden silk wraps (a favorite). The owners, Nathalie Safon Ridel, an architect, Sirivan, a designer, and her husband Loic, a former production manager in the high tech printing industry, had moved to Siem Reap from Paris, France. I liked their original designs with  Cambodian elements and monk-blessed yuoan talismans. I appreciated that they used natural dyes, and natural fibers and followed responsible tourism and fair trade practices, buying products and working with small and family owned producers as well as supporting local non profits. Galerie Cambodge (Raffles Hotel D’Angkor shopping arcade, +855 (0)12 855 204, www.galeriecambodge.com)

Eric Raisina, textile designer and shop owner

Eric Raisina arrived in Siem Reap in 1996 and fell in love with the area. By 2001 he had based his business in the city and by 2004 he had opened his first shop. When I met the silk textile designer he had two shops in Siem Reap and one in Phnom Penh. The villa shop I visited (by appointment only) housed a showroom sandwiched between a workshop on one side, where a half a dozen seamstresses worked on bright and colorful silk fabrics, clothes and accessories, and a dye section on the other.

Silk clothing at the Eric Raisina shop in Siem Reap

“My main focus is really silk because in my country we do have beautiful silk, fantastic and really soft,” said the energetic and tall designer as he walked me around the ground floor showroom and shop in one of the city’s premier residential areas. “I thought this material is really magical.”

Bright colors and soft silks predominated at Eric Raisina’s shop

What I liked most about his fabrics in addition to the bright colors and whimsical and unexpected textures was the amazing softness of the silk fabrics. Prices ranged between $29 for a scarf to $545 for a travel blanket (my favorite). Villa Boutique Worship (Kot Chork, Siem Reap, Kingdom of Cambodia, +855 (0) 63 963 207, +855 (0)12 580 283 www.ericraisina.com, info@ericraisina.com).

Staff working at the Theam’s House workshop

Cambodian art at Theam’s House

I arrived at Theam’s House late in the day, tired, hungry (there had been no time for lunch) and wet from an afternoon of seasonal downpours. Maddy Lim, the Cambodian artist’s sister who had recently quit her job to dedicate her time to the art gallery, welcomed me with a smile. A few moments later she introduced me to Lim Muy Theam, the artist and man behind the shop, and his enthusiasm rubbed off on me. The former artistic director of Artisans d’Angkor had attended the École Boule and the École des Beaux-Arts de Paris before returning to his homeland. He now lived, worked and exhibited his art in the same building. During my visit, he described his artistic style and showed me around the back-of-the-house workshop where his staff were hard at work and the public space where finished artwork was on display.

The gallery was filled with colorful art in varied sizes and shapes. The most distinctive were the oversize acrylic paintings due to be included in the Season of Cambodia exhibit in New York City in 2013. There were also lacquered paintings (starting at $500), bronze and stone sculptures, even cotton scarves from Phnom Srok. The most popular, he said in response to my question, where his souvenir elephants and Buddhas. He was planning on making one thousand Buddhas. Theam’s House (No.25, Phum Veal, Khum Kokchak, Siem Reap Angkor, +855 -0- 12 71 20 39, +855 -0- 78 20 81 61+855 -0- 97 89 855 39, www.theamshouse.com, theamshouse@yahoo.com, info@theamshouse.com)

A section of one of the oversize paintings

Late the following morning I took a break from attractions and shopping excursions and scheduled a half day Champagne Spa package at Bodia Spa, a day spa near my hotel. There’s nothing like spa therapy following shopping therapy, I say. The friendly spa ladies spoke English, the spa facilities were quiet (I was the only guest when I arrived) and pretty with water features in a courtyard garden, the treatments were nice and the bubbly, gently chilled, was served with a bowl of fruit. Bodia Spa adjacent to the Heritage Suites Hotel (behind Wat Polanka, + 855 63 762 428, www.bodia-spa.com, contact@bodia-spa.com )

My treatment included a flower filled tub, fresh fruit and a half bottle of champagne

Article and photos by Josette King

The Island Spirit

“How about an Alaska cruise?” a friend suggested as we were discussing potential travel destinations, “I hear the Alexander Archipelago is spectacular.” I dismissed the idea with a reminder that I was not fond of cruises. “Stop holding a grudge,” she laughed, aware that I have been ill disposed toward floating luxury hotels since one of them ruined my gelato break. I was sitting at a canal-side terrace of La Giudecca, the quiet island on the southern side of Venice, when a colossus the size of a city block ponderously glided its way down the canal, obliterating for what seemed an eternity my view of the Laguna and Basilica San Marco.

Ford’s Terror mountains were reflected into the cove

But thoughts of the Inside Passage, as the Archipelago is often called, lingered. The 300-mile (500 kilometer) long, 100-mile (160 kilometer) wide area with over 1,000 islands and a labyrinth-like coastline of convoluted channels, deep fjords and active glaciers is considered one of the most stunning wilderness destinations in North America. I thought there had to be a way to get away from the common cruising lanes and meander through its remote reaches. There was.

The fjords abounded with high waterfalls

My nine-day journey on board the Island Spirit was akin to an invitation on the yacht of a friend who liked nothing better than sharing with his guests his passion for the pristine waters and breathtaking scenery of Southern Alaska. With its 25.6-foot (7.8 meter) beam and 7-foot (2.1 meter) draft, the powerful 128-foot (39 meter) long ship was just the right size to wend its way into narrow fjords and idyllic anchorages inaccessible to larger vessels. And with only 17 guest cabins that could accommodate a maximum of 32 passengers and a friendly crew of nine, it offered an intimate environment and laidback atmosphere that greatly enhanced my enjoyment of this exceptional wilderness experience.

Island Spirit captain Jeff Behrens

The ship’s owner and captain, Jeff Behrens, constantly adjusted his loosely defined itinerary to make the most of the ever-changing weather conditions and optimize wildlife sightings while cruising at a relaxed 10 knots per hour along the most sought-after vistas of the Archipelago. We stopped for whales, orcas, porpoises and colonies of sea lions piled up on rocky outcrops. We slowed for seals hitching rides on drifting ice floes. For Captain Jeff, it was not enough to introduce us to narrow fjords framed by dramatic granite cliffs streaked with waterfalls thundering down from snowcapped peaks. He delighted in nudging the ship to the edge of the rock face, close enough that I could feel the icy spray on my face, and reach out to fill a pitcher with the sweetest water I ever tasted.

Dawes Glacier

My introduction to a live glacier was a morning long, equally up-close adventure. The ice floes became increasingly larger as we headed up Endicott Arm to Dawes Glacier, until Captain Jeff brought the ship to a stop within a mere 600 feet (200 meters) of a mile-long (1,600 meter) wall of jagged ice about 20 stories high; so close that I could hear the glacier snap. Seconds later, a slab of ice would crash into the water to immediately pop back up as one more iceberg on the already cluttered sea. Time flew as I concentrated on the sounds, challenging myself to guess the location of the next slide.

Alaska sunset

My most treasured memory of this unique cruise is an anchorage known as Ford’s Terror. It is isolated from the outside world by a canyon so narrow, with currents so treacherous that it can be accessed only during slack tide (the moment when currents stand relatively still while the tide turns). The Island Spirit is said to be the only commercial passenger ship around the Inside Passage that is small enough to make its way through. We emerged from the canyon into a stunning oval cove rimmed by steep forests of tall black pines interspersed by tumbling waterfalls. Above the tree line, snowy peaks shone brightly against the cloudless cerulean sky. But the magic of Ford’s Terror went far beyond its breathtaking scenery. As we were finishing our dinner, Andy, the first mate, informed us that a grizzly bear was enjoying his at the water’s edge. One of the skiffs was lowered for those who wanted a closer look. We reached en masse for our life vests and headed for the skiff. By the time we returned to the ship an hour later, a perfect crescent moon was rising into the still pale blue sky.

Orca whales frolicked by our ship

The weather was again radiant the next morning. While kayaks were an option, I chose to board the skiff again for a ride around the cove. In addition to spotting unusual Harlequin sea ducks and bald eagles nesting high in the trees, I was treated to a rare, close range sighting of a black bear sow and her three tiny cubs. Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review to read more about my Alaska cruise on board the Island Spirit.

By Elena del Valle and photos by Gary Cox

Suite 2 at Leadwood looked out into the bush

During a visit to South Africa’s famous Sabi Sand Reserve earlier this year we stayed at three &Beyond properties, Dulini and Leadwood at the Exeter Reserve and Kirkman’s Kamp on the southeastern corner bordering Kruger National Park. While each had a charm of its own, Leadwood was the most intimate and luxurious, our favorite. One of the reasons it captured our hearts, in addition to fine suites with private plunge pools, contemporary stylish décor, an emphasis on privacy and top notch service and meals, was the informal presence of art.

A necklace created by Gift

Three of the staff pursued artistic inspiration in their free time. We found out quite by coincidence and asked to see their work. Shyly, each in turn, displayed examples of his or her efforts. Gift Nyulunga, one of the cooks, made simple bead necklaces out of recycled glass. The large-bead necklaces were available in a limited variety of colors and lengths and were quite affordable starting at about $10.

One of Andre McDonald’s drawings of lion cubs

Andre Mc Donald, or “Mac” as everyone knew him, our affable guide, drew beautiful lifelike wildlife drawings of the animals in the reserve. The Cape Town native who grew up in the Eastern Cape had been selling his art for five years. We had no idea of his hobby and it was only when I overheard someone comment about his work, and after asking several times, that he brought a handful for us to see one afternoon before tea.

Mac’s lion and leopard detailed drawings

“I have had no formal training in art but have always had a keen interest in drawing,” said Mc Donald. “After school I did not draw for many years until I started to work as a ranger on a private game reserve where I began to sketch wildlife. After seeing some of my earlier work, one of my guests encouraged me to develop my skill further.”

A watercolor by Kerry Michau

His goal is to sketch very realistic representations, in terms of the proportions and postures, of the animals he and his guests often see on the game drives, especially leopards and lions. Each spot on a leopard, for example, is drawn with at least three different pencils to get the depth and texture of the fur just right, he explained.

“I draw from photographs which means that each drawing is true to the original animal. Because I know the animals I draw, I try to capture the character of each individual, in particular the look in their eyes. I look for photographs with an interesting pose or setting.”

Lion and cub in watercolor

Mac’s pencil drawings had found homes in 22 countries, including United States, Germany, Dominican Republic, Malta, New Zealand and France. The limited edition prints (98 of each) sold for $220 each; originals for $1,000 or $1,500. Overseas delivery required two weeks. He could be reached by email at keriann.mcdonald@gmail.com

Leopard by Kelly Michau

Kerry Michau, the part time assistant manager, was the third artist. She worked with watercolors, painting the wildlife in the reserve as well as modern abstract pieces and fashion.

For more information about Dulini, Leadwood and Kirkman’s Kamp and other luxury properties in that area visit the Sabi Sand Reserve section of the Simon & Baker Travel Review.

Article and photos by Josette King

Main façade of the Hofburg imperial palace in Vienna

There is always a risk in revisiting best-loved places that they may have changed. My first encounter with Vienna dates back to the 1960’s. The shine of the once brilliant capital of the Habsburg Dynasty had been dulled by the aftermath of two world wars; but even so, it had managed to retain enough of its past grandeur and courtly traditions to seduce me on the spot. I returned several times over the ensuing decades and with each visit, I delighted in observing an accelerating pace of renaissance. Palaces were restored to their imperial majesty; and in the center of town, new constructions were sensitively integrated into their historic surroundings; Vienna has indeed changed over the recent past, but only for the better. Today it is again a sparkling jewel in the center of Europe, the 21st century version of the exuberantly luxurious and romantic capital of its imperial heydays.

The Leopold Museum

I hadn’t been back in over a decade, so the intent of my recent visit was to catch up with this new, 21st century Vienna and more specifically visit the Leopold Museum. Opened in 2001 to hold the previously private art collection of Rudolph and Elizabeth Leopold, it is a treasure trove of Austrian Modernist masterpieces, including the world’s largest collection of the works of Egon Schiele, recognized as one of the greatest figurative painters of the early 20th century. Although he died at the age of 29 in 1918, Schiele left an amazing body of work that had been all but forgotten until local art collector Rudolph Leopold rediscovered him in the 1950. Today 330 of his oil canvases and over 2,500 of his drawings are part of the Leopold’s collection. Many of his major works are permanently on display along with a number of paintings by Gustav Klimt, Oskar Kokoschka and other leading artists of the Austrian Modernism movement. The museum also includes a stunning collection of Art Nouveau jewelry and crafts.

Baroque churches abound in Vienna

Another exciting discovery was the extensive renovation work that had been completed on the Kärntner Ring section of the Ringstrasse (or simply the Ring), the broad 19th century boulevard that circles the center of the city. At the time of its construction, the Ring had been lined with palaces, public buildings and several landmark hotels. Some of the latter had over time fallen into serious disrepair, some to the point of being boarded up for a time. Since my last visit, two of these hotels, the Grand Hotel Wien and the Ring Hotel had been restored to their original splendor.

Le Ciel dining room at Grand Hotel Wein

Behind its superb classic facade, the Grand Hotel Wien, the first luxury hotel in the city when it first opened its doors in 1870, once again welcomed its guests to palatial interior spaces, Viennese Grand Style décor and the impeccable service that spoke of the opulence of a bygone area. Meanwhile just across the street, the Ring Hotel, once a residential property that had provided in-town pieds-à-terre for bachelors of the Viennese aristocracy, had undergone a complete interior reconstruction. It had re-opened in 2007 as a contemporary luxury hotel appointed with the latest amenities, including a state-of-the-art health club and spa tucked under the eaves, and a sauna with a glorious view over the rooftops of the city. It was a perfect place to enjoy some of the best of contemporary Vienna within a few minutes’ walk from the significant historic and artistic landmarks in the city. Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review to read more about my recent visit to Austria, the Grand Hotel Wien and the Ring Hotel.

Article and photos by Josette King

Rufiji River Camp was stretched high on a bluff

After a visit to Katavi in the farthest reaches of western Tanzania, I flew to the Selous Game Reserve. It was a long way back east from Katavi to Selous, several hours including a stop-over in Ruaha, which gave me time to collect myself and re-enter the 21st century. Located in southeast Tanzania, the Selous Game Reserve covers more than five percent of Tanzania’s total landmass. It is the largest protected and one of the oldest wildlife reserves in Africa. It was first established over a century ago as a hunting reserve, and large portions to the south of the Rufiji River are still set aside for hunting, while the northeastern part of  Selous is dedicated to photographic tourism.

The river was filled with hippos

The remote location limits the number of visitors, although I found Selous to be relatively more crowded than anywhere else I visited in the Southern Circuit. In addition to being home to the Rufiji River and to its remarkable abundance of game and bird life, what made Selous unique was its status as a game reserve. It permitted a larger range of activities than in the more regulated national parks.

The dining area at Rufiji

The Rufiji River Camp made the most of this advantage. Stretched along a bluff overlooking the river, the camp delivered an outstanding variety of game viewing activities. Game drives in the camp’s open-sided vehicles were especially rewarding as it was possible to go off-road for optimum viewing. The camp also offered river safaris in open-sided pontoon boats, and walking safaris. A favorite activity of mine was the siesta time armchair safaris I enjoyed on my private veranda which overlooked an active pod of hippos and the riverbank where elephants came to drink and crocodiles lazed in the sun. Meanwhile every rustle in the trees above my tent was a new birding opportunity.

A thatched roof shaded the bell-shaped pool

Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review for more about my recent visit to Tanzania and the Rufiji River Camp.

Article and photos by Josette King

My suite overlooked the river and the mountain

I recently came upon Shangri La, crash landing in a lost Himalayan valley not required. My own Utopian mountain paradise was much more readily accessible. Nestled in a pristine valley between the Grossglockner (the highest Alpine peak in Austria) and the Dolomites, the tiny medieval town of Lienz was only a few hours away from Vienna, or Venice. Just a few minutes walk from the center of town along the crystalline waters of the Isel River, the last glacial stream in the Alps, the Grandhotel Lienz was a cocoon of luxury where time and the aging process felt suspended. Although I visited during an exceptionally frigid winter spell, any climactic or indeed, any exterior world consideration faded into irrelevance the instant I entered the lovely white stone mansion-like property.

Reception foyer

The inclement weather was a welcome opportunity to linger longer in front of the dancing fire in the lounge; or enjoy the wintery views and crisp mountain air while dreamily floating around the huge heated outdoor whirlpool. What I liked best of all was to lose myself in the stunning two-level spa, with its multiple saunas and steam rooms, serene relaxation lounge and sophisticated treatment rooms where a staff of expert therapists offered a full range of superb massages and spa treatments.

Orangerie dining room

The gourmet restaurant, with its sumptuous breakfasts and imaginative daily degustation dinner menu was further enticement never to leave the premises. As was my exquisite suite with its vases filled with fresh flowers, Nespresso coffee machine, and the oversize chaise thoughtfully angled to offer an equally enjoyable perspective of the mountain and the large LCD television screen.

Lounge and bar

For those less slothfully inclined, Lienz was rich in natural and historical resources, with a 13th century castle just at the edge of town, and well preserved frescoes within its ancient churches. For the hardier souls, superb skiing awaited, with lifts right in the center of town to transport them up to the top of well-groomed, uncrowded slopes. Looking at the spectacular vistas that surrounded the area, it was easy to understand that this was prime four-season vacationing country, and a bucolic retreat where I would enjoy returning any season of the year.

Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review to read more about my visit to Austria and Grandhotel Lienz.

Article and photos by Josette King

Zebras and giraffes are unconcerned by our presence

Tanzania is the largest country in East Africa, with a landmass of 342,000 square miles (885, 800 square kilometer), of which more than 25 percent is in national parks, game reserves and other wildlife management protected areas, (i.e. over 80, 000 square miles or 207,000 square kilometers). Yet, mention Tanzania, and even the most casual armchair traveler perks up thinking Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater! These are arguably some of the best-known and most visited safari destinations in the country, and on the African continent. But together, these two legendary northern Tanzania national parks account for less than ten percent of the total preserved land in the country. What of the remainder then? I wondered.

Aerial view of western Tanzania

It didn’t take much research to realize that great swaths of spectacular wilderness scattered throughout the central and southern areas of the country attracted relatively few visitors; because they were time consuming and expensive to reach. In other words, too remote. When it comes to safari, nothing intrigues me more than the promise of remote destinations. There had to be a way. Safari Air Link, a small airline with daily scheduled flights, linked most of these irresistibly remote destinations known as the Southern Circuit to Dar es Salaam, the capital of Tanzania, and to each other. It offered an efficient and cost-effective alternative to prohibitively expensive private charter flights. I was on my way.

Mikumi

Main lodge and tent at Stanley’s Kopje

The fourth largest national park in the country, Mikumi, was the first stop on my visit to Tanzania and the start of my southern itinerary. At the time of my visit it was home to multiple prides of lions as well as a variety of smaller predators and large herds of everything that makes for a gratifying safari. Interestingly it was also the only park readily accessible from Dar es Salaam, a short 90 minute flight, or a half day’s drive away, which made it a favorite with local visitors. Yet I saw few international tourists there.

A lioness relaxes in the shade

My home within the park was Stanley’s Kopje, a casual luxury tented camp perched on a rocky knoll with a sweeping view of the Mkata Floodplain that is Mikumi’s core. It was an ideal place to relax after the long international journey and reacquaint myself with the thrill of the African bush. From the comfort of my private veranda high on the hill, I enjoyed lazy post game drive hours watching herds of buffaloes lumber their way across the plain, and elephants converge toward their favorite watering hole.

Cape buffalo with the Udzungwa Mountains in the background

Meanwhile on the horizon a fiery sunset outlined the Udzungwa Mountains. The heady sounds of the bush filled the air, complete with a vibrating roar coming from somewhere at the foot of the knoll. There was hardly a hint of human presence anywhere. I had a fleeting thought of sympathy for the hapless tourists who would never know what they had missed.

Ruaha

Safari Air Link Cessna lands at the Ruaha airstrip

It was a one hour flight from Mikumi to Ruaha, due west over increasingly high, craggy ridges and agricultural plains. Then the farmland subsided altogether, replaced by forest and rock. We were approaching a rippling plateau, bordered by a steep escarpment, and a dusty airstrip with a welcoming committee of parading giraffes. This was Ruaha, the second largest national park in Tanzania, known for its large population of elephants, giraffes and greater kudus, and for the exceptional diversity of wildlife. And it was all there, for me to enjoy in contented quasi-solitude.

Elephants shade themselves under a baobab

Rarely during a game drive did I catch a glimpse of another vehicle. This would have been sufficient to make for a memorable visit. But there was more. When I think of Ruaha, what I remember most are the baobab trees, hundreds of the ancient giants clustered in colossal groves across the plain, and clinging to the rock all the way up the escarpment. It was a sight I had never experienced anywhere else in Africa.

Hilltop lounge at Ruaha River Lodge

And I remember the Ruaha River Lodge, strung across the river that gave it and the park their name. Here, game viewing started at breakfast in the riverside dining room, with a Goliath heron coming to preen at the river’s edge, and baboons bouncing from rock to rock across the water. It continued at lunchtime at the hilltop dining room with a herd of elephants drinking at the rock pool below. Then there were the evenings on the veranda of my banda (Swahili for cottage), in the company of hungry hippos methodically chomping away a few feet beyond my banister.

Katavi

The lodge at Katavi Wilderness Camp

It took determination get to Katavi, the third largest park in Tanzania, a couple of hours’ flight west of Ruaha. It is so far off the beaten track that the park receives only a few hundred visitors per year. Even my Safari Air Link friends flew there only twice per week. But what awaited me there was Africa at its unadulterated best. A rich and varied wildlife going about the rhythm of its existence in a pristine environment of reed-filled floodplains and dense woodlands as it has for millennia. And the Katavi Wilderness Camp.

My veranda had a striking view of the Katisunga Plain

Nestled under the canopy of soaring marula and tamarind trees, this intimate luxury camp overlooked the Katisunga Plain as it stretched to the Lyamba-lya-Mfipa escarpment on the horizon. Beyond the wonder of finding an enclave of contemporary luxuries in such an improbable place, what made the camp truly special was its superb staff who welcomed me to a level of gracious hospitality worthy of East African safaris of a bygone era. According to the park authorities, I was one of only three tourists in the park at the time of my visit. I never saw the other two. At Katavi I experienced the intoxicating feeling that, if only for a few days, Africa was mine alone.

The outline of the Lyamba-lya-Mfipa escarpment emerges from the morning

My travels along the Southern Circuit, aboard the Safari Air Link fleet of nine-seat Cessnas, allowed me a bird’s eye view of the topography of the parks and the countryside along the way. And I was able to experience three impressive, little known game viewing areas, each unique in its own way, and with an even greater variety of game than I encountered later in my trip to the north of the country.

Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review for more about my recent visit to Tanzania and Stanley’s Kopje, Ruaha River Lodge, and Katavi Wilderness Camp .