Article and photos by Josette King

The M/Y Grace at anchor in a secluded cove of the Galapagos archipelago

After a 1,000-kilometer flight over empty Pacific Ocean waters, the AeroGal Airlines jet was preparing to land on San Cristobal, the easternmost island of the Galapagos Archipelago. The few returning locals were already gathering their belongings. Meanwhile, we the tourists were craning our necks to catch a first glimpse of the islands. The plane banked, revealing under its wing a zigzag of rocky coastline, punctuated by an occasional crescent of white sand; and no discernible sign of human life. Another turn unveiled a dazzling panorama of ancient volcanic peaks and dark rock formations emerging from an impossibly blue sea. All this natural splendor, and we hadn’t yet landed.

Galapagos sea lion

Once we did, I discovered another unique characteristic of the islands: the sense of undeniable entitlement of its wildlife. Even in the center of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, the tiny provincial capital of the Galapagos adjacent to the airport, birds and reptiles and especially sea lions treated our presence with superb indifference. The later, enjoying their siesta sprawled on the boat dock, didn’t even twitch as I squeezed by to board the panga (local inflatable zodiac-type skiff) that was to take me to the Motor Yacht Grace.

San Cristobal landing

My first glance at the elegant lines of this classic yacht was a special thrill. It brought back fantasies I had shared with an entire generation of French schoolgirls half a century before. Its owner was Prince Rainer III then, and it was named the Deo Juvante (Latin for with God’s help) after the motto of the house of Grimaldi, the rulers of the tiny French Riviera principality of Monaco for almost a millennium. For a few weeks in 1956, it had been front page news on French magazines and movies screens: the prince, sailing to meet the ocean liner USS Constitution to welcome his fiancee, the American movie star Grace Kelly; then the following week, Prince Rainer and the now Princess Grace boarding the yacht again for a seven-week honeymoon. Throughout the spring, there had been images of the yacht anchored in the most romantic destinations around the Mediterranean. Now this glamorous vessel was to be my home for a seven-night cruise around the Galapagos Archipelago, royal matrimony not required.

The shaded fresco dining area at the rear of the main deck

The yacht, renamed the M/Y Grace in homage to its most illustrious owner, is now the property of Quasar Galapagos Expeditions. Its owner Eduardo Diez, a man with a passion for classic yachts, oversaw a two-year, $2.5 million overhaul of the ship, while preserving its distinctive lines. The Grace, newly outfitted with a state-of-the-art stabilizer system to ensure smooth sailing on the open waters around the Galapagos islands, a large hot tub on the sundeck, modern bathrooms in each of its nine staterooms and air conditioning throughout, began operations in the spring of 2009. While I admit that it was the prospect of sailing on the Grace that propelled my desire to visit the Galapagos “some day” to the top of my travel wish list, the understated luxury of the vessel turned out to be merely the setting for a unique wilderness adventure. With only seven passengers and a crew of 10 on board, our naturalist guide, Rafael Pesantes Aguirre (Rafa for short) quipped that our odds for mutiny were unpromising.

Red footed booby

But between the attentive pampering of the friendly staff and the exhilarating daily discoveries of the cruise, mutiny was the last thing on my mind. The exceptional itinerary took us to remote places rarely visited by larger ships. And Rafa, a third generation native of the islands and an ornithology graduate from San Francisco University in Quito, coupled an encyclopedic knowledge of the natural wonders of the area with the familiarity of one who has swum since childhood in the crystal clear waters of its most secluded coves. Our land excursions were filled with close encounters with some of rarest wildlife on the planet. We wandered on powdery white beaches shared only with colonies of sea lions and hiked along black lava rock paths to observe at close range the courtship ritual of Nazca boobies and waved albatross.

Fernandina marine iguana

We rode our panga along the edge of vertical cliffs dotted with blue-footed boobies and tiny Galapagos penguins, and watched frigate birds and brown pelicans nosedive for their breakfast. For me the highpoint of the day was invariably our snorkeling expedition. In island after island, Rafa led us to the most exotic marine life I have ever observed. I swan surrounded by so many giant sea turtles that it was a challenge to get out of their way. I observed a hammerhead shark, mercifully unconcerned by my presence; and I can now boast that I was personally pecked by a flightless cormorant! Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review to read more about my Galapagos Archipelago cruise aboard the M/Y Grace.

Sally Lightfoot crab

By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox

The Saba Tourist Bureau

I loved Saba, a small Dutch Caribbean island, for its unspoiled and picturesque character. What this volcanic Leeward Island lacked in size it made up for in beauty, natural features and sheer determination. For example, the islanders were told by experts in Holland early last century that it was not possible to build a road due to the steep incline of the mountains. Refusing to accept that ruling one man took a correspondence course and with the help of his fellow islanders built the beginning of what today is called simply The Road.

A plaque to Josephus Lambert Hassell, engineer of the road

With a population of less than 1,500 and diminutive (it occupies five square miles), the tourist attractions were mainly scenic, we expected before visiting the island. Cars were scarce in Saba. We had a few hours to see what we could while our ship, the SeaDream I, stopped there and we intended to make the most of it. With a little help from the crew we were able to find a taxi, the only one available that day apparently. The driver, a friendly Irishman who had relocated to Saba only a few months earlier with his van (the windows in the rear of the van did not open we later discovered with disappointment), explained that he would be pleased to show us around the island if we were willing to share space and wait for him.

Saba in the foreground and remote islands on the horizon

Six of us shared the van up the narrow and steep roads. He dropped two of our group at the entrance to a hiking trail (they reported having a wonderful time later when we met up aboard the ship) before leaving us in The Bottom, the island’s main urban area. He would take care of local customers (many of the medical school students were going on vacation and there was a wedding the next day) who had booked his services already and return for us about 90 minutes later.

We stopped at this church with a view

When he returned he had a glass of fresh made fruit juice with us before the four of us climbed into his van to see the sights. Minutes later we felt transported back in time when we stopped at a small church with a million dollar view. Although the church was closed there was a kind lady running a simple small cash only shop behind the church. She sold handmade lace in the tradition and style of Saba, a dying art, our driver shared as we departed having bought one of the treasured lace pieces.

The tiny Saba airport

From there we drove downhill toward the waterfront island airport. On our way back our driver showed us the house he rented as we drove by it on way back toward The Bottom and the dock where we had arrived.

Cute little houses and flowers dotted the hills

Earlier while we waited for our guide and driver to return we had made our way around the hilly village, picking up tips and information at the tourist office where a friendly staff person welcomed us, passing a cafe and small indoor market and walking up a steep hill toward JoBean Glass unsure if it was open for business. Our efforts were rewarded when we arrived at the un-airconditioned shop and found it open. A shy young lady inside said we were welcome to browse around at our leisure. Every surface, every corner of the shop was filled with glass items, many made from Venetian glass, we later found out from the friendly owner who popped by for a few minutes.

JoBean Chambers demonstrating a technique to fashion colorful glass jewelry

JoBean Chambers, a lively and vivacious American woman who had lived and worked on the island for many years, showed us the glass pieces she was making for the wedding we had heard about, and gave us a brief glass making demonstration. Watching her flame work the thin and colorful glass tubes it seemed easy to create pretty seahorses, turtles, frogs, fish, mermaids, dive flags, starfish and other attractive shapes. She would heat and swirl the glass quickly and easily (for her), then attach another piece of glass in a different color to the incipient shape, adjusting the width and style along the way. In moments we could distinguish a multicolored frog and after that a mermaid. It was hard to imagine the glass melts at temperatures of more than 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit.

Many of her glass creations were sea creatures

A fan of hot glass since 1989 she had learned her skills, in part at El Vetro in Venice, Italy where she studied, according to her website, with Lucio Bubacco and Vittorio Constantini. Her work was exhibited in art galleries in the United States and the Caribbean, including the Corning Museum Shop. She offered glass workshops in her hillside studio for up to five students at a time. Next time we visit Saba maybe we will take one of her workshops.

Our visit to Saba was a special treat and one of my fondest memories from our week long Caribbean cruise. This was in part because of the pretty hillside houses in the small towns, the old style lace sold behind the church, our shared taxi tour and fun stop at JoBean Glass Art Studio (Booby Hill, Windwardside Saba, Dutch West Indies,+ 599 416 2490,www.jobeanglassart.com, jobean@jobeanglassart.com).

Article and photos by Josette King

Hoatzin birds were a frequent sight near the lodge

“Stop, stop!” I sputter, too excited to keep my voice down. Fabian, the local park ranger who is paddling, doesn’t speak English but he gets the idea and brings the canoe to a smooth halt. Roberto, my Ecuadorian guide who speaks English fluently, looks at me askance. He has just pointed out a large bird perched in the dense jumble of rainforest. It looks like a chicken with too much turquoise eye shadow and a bad hair day. “The bird,” I exclaim. “Yes, it’s a hoatzin,” he reiterates matter-of-factly. He clearly fails to grasp the importance of the moment. So does the bird, which has by now been joined by two of its friends. They are engaged in a croaky argument while heartily tucking into the foliage. I feel compelled to explain that on a previous Amazon visit, a thousand miles downriver from here, I had once spent a whole week, including a half-day hike in the waterlogged underbrush, in search of a hoatzin. And I had only managed to hear its distinctive cry and ponderous take off as it vanished into the forest canopy. “We have lots of hoatzins here,” Roberto assures me after I have photographed these to my heart’s content, and for good measure a rare rufescent-tiger heron that has been observing the proceedings from a nearby stump.

The king size bed was draped in mosquito netting

We resume our slow way upstream under an arch of tangled mangroves and palms, along the narrow channel that connects the Napo River, one of the most important tributaries of the Amazon, to Anangucocha Lake. We are in the heart of 21,400 hectares (82 square miles) of conservation land located on the ancestral territory of the Kichwa Anangu community, in the northwest corner of Ecuador’s Yasuni National Park. The park is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve regarded by scientists as one of the most bio-diverse areas on the planet. Several notable sightings later, including a tree-toed sloth and my first ever monk saki monkey, we reach the lake. On its far side, the shore is dotted with the thatched-roofed, bright ocher adobe bungalows of the Napo Wildlife Center luxury eco-lodge.

My bungalow had a shaded terrace overlooking the lake

Set into some of the most pristine rainforest environment I have ever visited, the lodge is designed to meet the high expectations of international tourists for wilderness accommodations. It features attractive bungalows with private terraces overlooking the lake, modern bathrooms, round the clock electricity and WiFi connection throughout the property. Strategically located observation towers at the lodge and in the forest offer a unique perspective of the abundant wildlife around the lake and above the forest canopy. My wildlife viewing is exceptional, not only for its abundance and variety but because of the excellence of the guiding. At the lodge, guides come in pairs: a bilingual, state-licensed guide and a native Yasuni Park-licensed ranger who also acts as a local guide, sharing his knowledge of plants, medicinal plants and Kichwa traditions. One evening, they take me on a nighttime canoe ride in the swamps near the lodge, with a special spotlight to view nocturnal creatures.

Coffee was served around the clock in the main hall

Beyond the excellence of accommodations and wildlife viewing opportunities, a highpoint of my visit is the opportunity to observe first hand the positive impact of the Napo Wildlife Center on the daily life of the Anangu people. The lodge and conservation land are wholly owned and managed by the Kichwa Anangu community. They are the keystones of a far-reaching program to improve the quality of life of the people and preserve the integrity of their ancestral territory and culture while providing them with sustainable employment. Most of the staff comes from the community. Their pride in the Napo Wildlife Center is palpable, and translates into warm and attentive service. Additionally, while the life of the community is separated from tourism activities, one hour downstream from the lodge, I see women welcome guests to the Interpretation Center facility adjacent to their village. It is especially rewarding to be able to connect with them (with Roberto as interpreter) as they introduce me to the tasks of their daily lives as well as their traditional Kichwa crafts and dances.

An Amazon forest dragon

I am gratified to hear of the rigorous sustainable tourism practices implemented by the Napo Wildlife Center program. Profits are reinvested within the community, with education and healthcare as major priorities. The center also returns a share of the annual profits to each family and provides a stipend to the elderly. To limit the lodge’s impact on its environment, it has implemented an environmentally sustainable sewage system, with waste waters treated to high standards before being released into the swamps. Trash is kept to a minimum and composted whenever possible. What is safe to burn is burned and buried, with the remainder transported to designated landfills outside the park. And these practices have been extended to the Anangu community at large, for a cleaner, healthier living environment.

A striated heron

The Napo Wildlife Center is also engaged in a strong anti-poaching program, with its conservation land patrolled by community rangers employed and equipped by the lodge. The Napo Wildlife Center was recognized in 2009 with the Rainforest Alliance Community Sustainable Trend Setter Award, and the Best Jungle Lodge Award from the Latin American Travel Association at the World Travel Market in London, U.K. And it is becoming a model for other sustainable tourism community projects throughout Ecuador.

The banks of the Napo River were a tangle of dense rainforest

And by the way, Roberto was right. We came across so many hoatzins during my four-day visit that by the time I left, I barely spared them a glance. Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review to read more about my stay at the Napo Wildlife Center.

Article and photos by Elena del Valle

Swaraj Kumar Banerjee, the owner of the Makaibari Tea Estate

The highlight of our one night stay in northeastern India’s famed Darjeeling tea growing area was a tea tasting with Swaraj Kumar Banerjee, the owner of the Makaibari Tea Estate (Kurseong 734203, District Darjeeling, West Bengal, +00 91 33 22878560, fax +00 91 33 22870695, www.makaibari.com, slg_rajah@sancharnet.in). The estate, 573 hectares large with 250 hectares under tea and the remainder under forests, had a total population of 1,549 between newborn to 91 years of age including 656 workers. Makaibari means cornfield.

Tea for shipment

During our visit we had an opportunity to stroll in the organic tea plantation, meet some of the members of the community, visit the factory (because it was a national holiday it was closed), hear a presentation by Banerjee about the biodynamic principals used on the estate and sample some of the teas with his guidance. The Makaibari Estate produced six varieties of premium teas: Silver Tips Imperial, white tea, silver green, oolongs, first flush vintage and muscatel second flush.

Makaibari tea leaves

Samples of tea

Although most of the tea production in the area, we were told, is in the hands of large producers and multinational companies, Makaibari remains a family owned affair in continuous operation since 1859. More importantly, for some, the estate owners today strive to set the standard for organic production and responsible tourism practices in the region.

The tea tasting area

The tasting took place in an upstairs area adjacent to a conference room and the owner’s office. The tasting room, hot even before the first sip of tea, was filled with tea displays and memorabilia. We were each supplied with a spoon and instructed on how to taste the tea. The process included sipping a spoon full of tea, swirling the tea in our mouths and breathing through our mouths to enhance the flavor prior to spitting it out in a corner sink, one at a time. For each tea we completed this process while circling around the room toward a row of teacups set atop a shelf.

Silver Tips

Among the teas was the Silver Tips Imperial notable because it is collected under the full moon. Priced at $1,600 per kilo it is reputedly the most expensive tea in the world. This was the only tea in the tasting we swallowed rather than spitting it out in the sink. It was surprisingly subtle. At the conclusion of the tasting we were invited to a guided walk through the organic tea plantation.

A view of the Makaibari building from the road

Makaibari tea fields

Before departing I stopped at the tiny shop to buy two small bags to share and remember my experience. Now every time I have a cup it reminds me of the Makaibari Tea and Raja Banerjee, as the staff call him, the Raja of Darjeeling Organic Tea.

Article by Laura Scheiber
Photos by Matthew Harris

Coopers Beach, Southampton

When I moved to New York City years ago, a friend advised me that the only way to survive the City’s hectic lifestyle was to get out once a month. I couldn’t agree more. A weekend in Southampton, New York, was the perfect combination of a tranquil and easy getaway in an upscale setting with natural beauty and interesting local history. Because we went in the fall, we were able to enjoy the many delights of this famous retreat for the rich and famous, without the notorious summertime crowds.

Located on the southeastern end of Long Island, New York, Southampton is one of a number of prestigious villages collectively known as the Hamptons. The village was the first English settlement in the state of New York, dating all the way back to 1640;  and as I soon learned, one of its most charming attributes was its rich history.

Bruce Michael, our enthusiastic tour guide

We arrived Friday evening after a two and half hour train ride from Penn Station, New York. The next day was a beautiful sunny but blustery fall day, and we were excited to discover the many treasures of this exclusive village. We met Bruce Michael, a local resident and tour guide, who led us on a fascinating historical journey of Southampton (Bruce Michael Guided Tours, 327 Central Park West Apt 2C, New York, NY 10025, +1 917 623 6602, http://www.discoverlongisland.com/visitors/more-info.aspx?cli_number=6727&major=, BruceMK@aol.com). What we liked about Bruce Michael as a tour guide was his genuine enthusiasm for the area, as well as the historical insight he provided about the high society families that have resided in Southampton over the last two centuries. We started in the center of town on Jobs Lane, a picturesque tree-shaded street lined with upscale boutiques.

The Parrish Art Museum

Our first stop was the Parrish Art Museum (25 Jobs Lane, Southampton, NY 11968, +1 631 283 2118, fax +1 631 283 7006, http://parrishart.org/, info@parrishart.org). Founded in 1897 by Samuel Longstreth Parrish, a discerning art collector, the museum has since housed a permanent collection of over 2,600 pieces by prominent artists who have lived or worked in the area, including Jackson Pollock, Roy Lichtenstein, William Merritt Chase and Fairfield Porter. Select works were displayed throughout the year in the museum’s changing exhibitions.

Rogers Mansion, headquarters of the Southampton Historical Museums and Research Center

After leaving the Parrish Art Museum, we walked up the street to a beautifully preserved Greek revival style home called Rogers Mansion, the headquarters of the Southampton Historical Museums and Research Center (17 Meeting House Lane, Southampton, NY 11969, +1 631 283 2494, fax +1 631 283 4540, www.southamptonhistoricalmuseum.org, info@southamptonhistoricalmuseum.org). We explored a handful of period rooms decorated in original furnishings, paintings and books of the home, originally built in 1843 for a wealthy whaling captain. I was particularly moved by the display of photos and newspaper articles describing the 1938 New England hurricane that devastated the area and was responsible for over 600 deaths in Long Island and southern New England. Just behind the mansion was the Old Southampton Village, made up of historic structures, such as a blacksmith’s shop, a paint shop and a colonial-era barn.

The Thomas Halsey Homestead

Next, we hopped in a van and visited the Thomas Halsey Homestead, just outside of the center of town (249 South Main Street, Southampton, NY 11969, +1 631 283 2494, fax +1 631 283 4540, http://southamptonhistoricalmuseum.org/museummain.asp?id=3). Built circa 1660, it is believed to be the oldest English-style house in New York State. We walked through the carefully curated rooms filled with original 17th and 18th century artifacts, such as open hearth cooking tools, a spinning wheel, and religious propaganda aimed at converting Native Americans.

The Thomas Halsey Homestead, living standards have changed a lot since 1660

The final stop on our tour was Coopers Beach, a beautifully manicured sandy white beach, roughly 1.8 miles from the center of town. The pristine beach was virtually empty, which made for a tranquil setting. Simply breathing in the fresh seaside air while watching waves crash along the seashore had a calming effect on me.

Heading back to the center of town, we drove down a grid of well-groomed streets lined with palatial mansions. Manors surrounding Lake Agawam had bragging rights to some of the most expensive real estate in the United States, and served as summer homes to some of America’s most prestigious families. The two-hour historical tour served as an excellent introduction to some of the village’s most important historical sites and captured my imagination of earlier times in Southampton.

The Driver’s Seat Restaurant

After the tour we enjoyed lunch at the Driver’s Seat Restaurant (66 Jobs Lane, Southampton, NY 11968, +1 631 283 6606, fax +1 631 283 6607, http://www.thedriversseatrestaurant.com/The_Drivers_Seat_Restaurant/Home.html, driversseatrestaurant@gmail.com). The ambiance was a pleasant mix of laid back pub with upscale touches, including a fresh bouquet of roses on every table and white-linen table clothes. We had a friendly chat with the owner, who made us feel welcome. The food was tasty and satisfying. I appreciated the varied and reasonably priced menu, particularly in comparison to some of the other overpriced establishments we visited throughout the weekend.

Jobs Lane in the center of Southampton, home to elegant boutiques

We spent the rest of the afternoon casually strolling down Main Street and Jobs Lane, popping in and out of the many exclusive shops and boutiques. I liked that the diverse clothing stores, antiques, and high-end furniture and jewelry stores were within walking distance, making Southampton an elite shopper’s delight. Above and beyond shopping, the well-preserved historic architecture gave the area a colonial feel, added to its overall charm and made walking around the town center particularly pleasant.

Wolffer Estate Vineyard

Just before sunset, we took a 15-minute car ride to Wolffer Estate Vineyard (139 Sagg Road, PO Box 9002, Sagaponack, NY 11962, +1 631 537 5106, fax +1 631 537 5107, www.wolffer.com, info@wolffer.com). The Tuscan-style villa looked out onto 55 acres of beautifully landscaped vineyards. I felt as if we had been transported to a European winery somewhere in the countryside. Wolffer Estate offered tastings ranging in price from $12 to $18 for four distinct wines. Our tasting began with the 2010 Grandioso Rose, followed by the 2007 Sparkling Brut, Blanc de Blanc, the 2008 Perle Chardonnay, and the 2008 Caya Cabernet Franc. Each of the wines had a distinct and appealing flavor. I jotted down their names so I could ask my local wine shop to order the ones I had sampled. Upon leaving the vineyard, I could not resist purchasing a bottle of the 2008 Perle Chardonnay as a reminder of our pleasant visit to Wolffer Estate.

One of the perks of our weekend getaway was its close proximity to New York City and convenient transportation options. Because we did not want to rent a car, we took the Long Island Rail Road departing from Penn Station in New York City, a two and a half hour relaxed journey. Cabs were waiting for us on our arrival at the train station of Southampton. Hometown Taxi charged $10 for my travel partner and I to go to the center of town five minutes away (425 County Road 39A, Southampton, NY 11968, +1 631 287 5200).

By the end of the weekend, I felt refreshed and ready to return to the faster-paced lifestyle of New York City. Overall we had a delightful autumn weekend in Southampton. The hassle-free travel from New York City, and slow-paced setting of the upscale village with its rich history and diverse attractions provided a wonderful respite from the hustle and bustle of the city.