Article and photos by Josette King

The M/Y Grace at anchor in a secluded cove of the Galapagos archipelago

After a 1,000-kilometer flight over empty Pacific Ocean waters, the AeroGal Airlines jet was preparing to land on San Cristobal, the easternmost island of the Galapagos Archipelago. The few returning locals were already gathering their belongings. Meanwhile, we the tourists were craning our necks to catch a first glimpse of the islands. The plane banked, revealing under its wing a zigzag of rocky coastline, punctuated by an occasional crescent of white sand; and no discernible sign of human life. Another turn unveiled a dazzling panorama of ancient volcanic peaks and dark rock formations emerging from an impossibly blue sea. All this natural splendor, and we hadn’t yet landed.

Galapagos sea lion

Once we did, I discovered another unique characteristic of the islands: the sense of undeniable entitlement of its wildlife. Even in the center of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, the tiny provincial capital of the Galapagos adjacent to the airport, birds and reptiles and especially sea lions treated our presence with superb indifference. The later, enjoying their siesta sprawled on the boat dock, didn’t even twitch as I squeezed by to board the panga (local inflatable zodiac-type skiff) that was to take me to the Motor Yacht Grace.

San Cristobal landing

My first glance at the elegant lines of this classic yacht was a special thrill. It brought back fantasies I had shared with an entire generation of French schoolgirls half a century before. Its owner was Prince Rainer III then, and it was named the Deo Juvante (Latin for with God’s help) after the motto of the house of Grimaldi, the rulers of the tiny French Riviera principality of Monaco for almost a millennium. For a few weeks in 1956, it had been front page news on French magazines and movies screens: the prince, sailing to meet the ocean liner USS Constitution to welcome his fiancee, the American movie star Grace Kelly; then the following week, Prince Rainer and the now Princess Grace boarding the yacht again for a seven-week honeymoon. Throughout the spring, there had been images of the yacht anchored in the most romantic destinations around the Mediterranean. Now this glamorous vessel was to be my home for a seven-night cruise around the Galapagos Archipelago, royal matrimony not required.

The shaded fresco dining area at the rear of the main deck

The yacht, renamed the M/Y Grace in homage to its most illustrious owner, is now the property of Quasar Galapagos Expeditions. Its owner Eduardo Diez, a man with a passion for classic yachts, oversaw a two-year, $2.5 million overhaul of the ship, while preserving its distinctive lines. The Grace, newly outfitted with a state-of-the-art stabilizer system to ensure smooth sailing on the open waters around the Galapagos islands, a large hot tub on the sundeck, modern bathrooms in each of its nine staterooms and air conditioning throughout, began operations in the spring of 2009. While I admit that it was the prospect of sailing on the Grace that propelled my desire to visit the Galapagos “some day” to the top of my travel wish list, the understated luxury of the vessel turned out to be merely the setting for a unique wilderness adventure. With only seven passengers and a crew of 10 on board, our naturalist guide, Rafael Pesantes Aguirre (Rafa for short) quipped that our odds for mutiny were unpromising.

Red footed booby

But between the attentive pampering of the friendly staff and the exhilarating daily discoveries of the cruise, mutiny was the last thing on my mind. The exceptional itinerary took us to remote places rarely visited by larger ships. And Rafa, a third generation native of the islands and an ornithology graduate from San Francisco University in Quito, coupled an encyclopedic knowledge of the natural wonders of the area with the familiarity of one who has swum since childhood in the crystal clear waters of its most secluded coves. Our land excursions were filled with close encounters with some of rarest wildlife on the planet. We wandered on powdery white beaches shared only with colonies of sea lions and hiked along black lava rock paths to observe at close range the courtship ritual of Nazca boobies and waved albatross.

Fernandina marine iguana

We rode our panga along the edge of vertical cliffs dotted with blue-footed boobies and tiny Galapagos penguins, and watched frigate birds and brown pelicans nosedive for their breakfast. For me the highpoint of the day was invariably our snorkeling expedition. In island after island, Rafa led us to the most exotic marine life I have ever observed. I swan surrounded by so many giant sea turtles that it was a challenge to get out of their way. I observed a hammerhead shark, mercifully unconcerned by my presence; and I can now boast that I was personally pecked by a flightless cormorant! Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review to read more about my Galapagos Archipelago cruise aboard the M/Y Grace.

Sally Lightfoot crab

Article and photos by Josette King

Hoatzin birds were a frequent sight near the lodge

“Stop, stop!” I sputter, too excited to keep my voice down. Fabian, the local park ranger who is paddling, doesn’t speak English but he gets the idea and brings the canoe to a smooth halt. Roberto, my Ecuadorian guide who speaks English fluently, looks at me askance. He has just pointed out a large bird perched in the dense jumble of rainforest. It looks like a chicken with too much turquoise eye shadow and a bad hair day. “The bird,” I exclaim. “Yes, it’s a hoatzin,” he reiterates matter-of-factly. He clearly fails to grasp the importance of the moment. So does the bird, which has by now been joined by two of its friends. They are engaged in a croaky argument while heartily tucking into the foliage. I feel compelled to explain that on a previous Amazon visit, a thousand miles downriver from here, I had once spent a whole week, including a half-day hike in the waterlogged underbrush, in search of a hoatzin. And I had only managed to hear its distinctive cry and ponderous take off as it vanished into the forest canopy. “We have lots of hoatzins here,” Roberto assures me after I have photographed these to my heart’s content, and for good measure a rare rufescent-tiger heron that has been observing the proceedings from a nearby stump.

The king size bed was draped in mosquito netting

We resume our slow way upstream under an arch of tangled mangroves and palms, along the narrow channel that connects the Napo River, one of the most important tributaries of the Amazon, to Anangucocha Lake. We are in the heart of 21,400 hectares (82 square miles) of conservation land located on the ancestral territory of the Kichwa Anangu community, in the northwest corner of Ecuador’s Yasuni National Park. The park is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve regarded by scientists as one of the most bio-diverse areas on the planet. Several notable sightings later, including a tree-toed sloth and my first ever monk saki monkey, we reach the lake. On its far side, the shore is dotted with the thatched-roofed, bright ocher adobe bungalows of the Napo Wildlife Center luxury eco-lodge.

My bungalow had a shaded terrace overlooking the lake

Set into some of the most pristine rainforest environment I have ever visited, the lodge is designed to meet the high expectations of international tourists for wilderness accommodations. It features attractive bungalows with private terraces overlooking the lake, modern bathrooms, round the clock electricity and WiFi connection throughout the property. Strategically located observation towers at the lodge and in the forest offer a unique perspective of the abundant wildlife around the lake and above the forest canopy. My wildlife viewing is exceptional, not only for its abundance and variety but because of the excellence of the guiding. At the lodge, guides come in pairs: a bilingual, state-licensed guide and a native Yasuni Park-licensed ranger who also acts as a local guide, sharing his knowledge of plants, medicinal plants and Kichwa traditions. One evening, they take me on a nighttime canoe ride in the swamps near the lodge, with a special spotlight to view nocturnal creatures.

Coffee was served around the clock in the main hall

Beyond the excellence of accommodations and wildlife viewing opportunities, a highpoint of my visit is the opportunity to observe first hand the positive impact of the Napo Wildlife Center on the daily life of the Anangu people. The lodge and conservation land are wholly owned and managed by the Kichwa Anangu community. They are the keystones of a far-reaching program to improve the quality of life of the people and preserve the integrity of their ancestral territory and culture while providing them with sustainable employment. Most of the staff comes from the community. Their pride in the Napo Wildlife Center is palpable, and translates into warm and attentive service. Additionally, while the life of the community is separated from tourism activities, one hour downstream from the lodge, I see women welcome guests to the Interpretation Center facility adjacent to their village. It is especially rewarding to be able to connect with them (with Roberto as interpreter) as they introduce me to the tasks of their daily lives as well as their traditional Kichwa crafts and dances.

An Amazon forest dragon

I am gratified to hear of the rigorous sustainable tourism practices implemented by the Napo Wildlife Center program. Profits are reinvested within the community, with education and healthcare as major priorities. The center also returns a share of the annual profits to each family and provides a stipend to the elderly. To limit the lodge’s impact on its environment, it has implemented an environmentally sustainable sewage system, with waste waters treated to high standards before being released into the swamps. Trash is kept to a minimum and composted whenever possible. What is safe to burn is burned and buried, with the remainder transported to designated landfills outside the park. And these practices have been extended to the Anangu community at large, for a cleaner, healthier living environment.

A striated heron

The Napo Wildlife Center is also engaged in a strong anti-poaching program, with its conservation land patrolled by community rangers employed and equipped by the lodge. The Napo Wildlife Center was recognized in 2009 with the Rainforest Alliance Community Sustainable Trend Setter Award, and the Best Jungle Lodge Award from the Latin American Travel Association at the World Travel Market in London, U.K. And it is becoming a model for other sustainable tourism community projects throughout Ecuador.

The banks of the Napo River were a tangle of dense rainforest

And by the way, Roberto was right. We came across so many hoatzins during my four-day visit that by the time I left, I barely spared them a glance. Visit the Simon & Baker Travel Review to read more about my stay at the Napo Wildlife Center.

By Elena del Valle
Photos by Gary Cox

The SeaDream I

Last December we spent a week aboard the SeaDream I making our way between small Caribbean islands. As with the European SeaDream II voyage we took in the past what we liked most was the intimate ambiance, gourmet offerings and service orientation of the all-inclusive luxury voyage.

A great spot for morning coffee near the Top of the Yacht bar

We were half full with 54 passengers and nearly a full crew compliment of 94 aboard the 344 feet long vessel with a 47 foot beam. Although our ship was small and offered a limited variety of entertainment options compared to the mega cruise ships with scores of decks, multiple restaurants and facilities and thousands of passengers and crew that now pepper the oceans it was the perfect size for a small group such as ours. While there were fewer activities than aboard larger vessels there were enough options to meet our desires. We were pleased to relax and meet some of the other passengers at happy hour, meal times and between shore excursions.

Our cabin on the SeaDream I

One of the hallmarks of SeaDream is service. When we arrived at the dock on our way to the ship, as we were exiting our taxi, an energetic young man from the ship, in uniform, approached us and introduced himself purposefully. He immediately coordinated the delivery of our luggage and escorted us through the security point. That kind of friendly and efficient service was repeated on board. That first impression set the tone for the remainder of the trip.

Welcoming bubbly on ice

The size of the group and ship offered myriad advantages we enjoyed. Aboard the ship there were never crowds, lines or reservations necessary for meals. Staff and even fellow guests could often easily recognize each other. Nearly all the staff we encountered greeted us and other guests by our names during that week.

On the beach in Anguilla

At anchor we were often the only large vessel at the places, several of them off-the-beaten-path islands, we visited. As we walked along the beach in Sandy Ground, Anguilla a local couple we spoke with commented that it was rare to see ships in that area. In Saba, we heard from the crew and the locals that often inclement weather prevented access to the island and few large ships stopped there. Although the weather had been dubious at times Lady Luck smiled upon us that day, making it possible for us to explore the tiny and picturesque Dutch island.

The SeaDream I tender heading out to the yacht

Another benefit we appreciated were the speedy and comfortable shore transfers within covered tenders. We became aware of the difference when observing fellow passengers from a similar ship embarking and disembarking, partly wet, from their ship’s dinghy when we went ashore completely dry and in the superior shelter and comfort of our small water craft.

Grilled lobster tail on a bed of vegetables

What we noticed and many experienced cruise aficionados in our group shared with us was how special the meals were aboard SeaDream I. Food, as is common aboard cruises, was abundant. Meals, often plated and prepared a la minute, were outstanding. Gilles de Cambourg, executive chef, Ferenc Béres Molnar, pastry chef, Pablo Raschetti, sommelier, and the dining service staff went the extra mile to ensure our meals were delicious and well served, every time. There was even a celebrity chef from the United Kingdom, Levi Root, spicing things up aboard that week. The quality standards extended to room service meals. Twice we ordered from the in-room dining menu; both times the dishes were well prepared, well presented and served within minutes of our order.

A favorite breakfast and lunch dining spot

We will keep Sea Dream yachts at the top of our list for luxury, laid back, all-inclusive, service and gourmet oriented intimate sea voyages and recommend them to friends who share our appreciation for cozy luxury voyages. Click here to read more about our week in the Caribbean aboard SeaDream I.

Article and photos by Elena del Valle

The entrance to Dwarikas

To reach Nepal from the United States east coast I traveled many hours with several stops along the way. When I arrived, the sweltering Kathmandu airport seemed chaotic and on exiting I, at first, missed my guide in the sea of unfamiliar faces. Narrow city streets shared by all manner of vehicles honking intermittently and livestock provided my first impression. I was excited to have secured accommodations at my first choice of the bustling city’s luxury hotels. For my arrival day the hotel had been fully booked until a last minute opening made it possible to secure a reservation for my entire stay in Kathmandu.

My first room had a view of the pool

My bathtub at Dwarikas

In my sleep deprived and jet lagged state little enthusiasm to explore remained and I desperately wished for a clean and quiet place to call my own, at least for a few hours. That was not to be the case, at least not right away, as my room was not ready, literally. Workmen were putting the finishing touches on the newly constructed room (and building) assigned to me at Dwarika’s Hotel. One of the staff was kind enough to notice that I was tired and offered a temporary solution, a room where I could rest for 90 minutes until mine became available at 6 p.m.

Fountains in a courtyard of the hotel

My rooms (I stayed at two rooms. At the staff’s suggestion I was relocated from my original room after the first night due to the loud sounds of construction in my building) were handsome, spacious and comfortable with modern amenities like a mini bar and internet access (for a fee). The breakfast buffet offered a variety of local and international selections. I especially enjoyed breakfast and opted for fresh fruit and the Nepali items like cheeses and pastries.

There were Nepali cheeses at breakfast

The Dwarika’s pool was adjacent to one of the restaurants

One night during my stay I had dinner at Krishnarpan, the hotel’s gourmet Nepali restaurant. After removing my shoes at the entrance of the restaurant there was a brief ceremonial “hand washing” before I was escorted across the wood floor to a ground level table. The candlelit room was decorated in wood and red tones. Prettily dressed staff ladies who spoke some English looked after guests.

A sentinel in the common areas

It was necessary when booking my reservation with the front desk to decide which of the set menus I would have for dinner. While I was eager to sample Nepali dishes I chose the most modest, the six course dinner, on the staff’s recommendation. It consisted of:  Samaya Bajee, an assortment of Nepali hors d’oeuvres served during religious ceremonies; Chyau Ko Sekuwa, Pan grilled oyster mushroom finished with fresh cream (a favorite); Roti, Unleavened griddle roasted bread; Momo, Potatoes and chickpeas cooked with Nepalese spices; Tarkari Ko Jhol, Vegetable soup cooked with Nepali spices (a favorite); Sada Bhuja, Organic steamed rice; Dal Jhaneko, Organic lentil tempered with Himalayan herbs; Kukhura Ko Masu, Traditional Nepali chicken curry cooked with aromatic Nepalese herbs and spices; Saag Jhaneko, Sauteed organic spinach with Nepalese spices; Aloo Ra Parwal Tareko, Stir fried potato and mini gourd; Eskush Ra Bhatamas Ko Tarkari, Sweet gourd and soyabean cooked with Nepali spices; Mis Mas Achar, Homemade vegetable pickle; Lapsee Ko Achaar, a very spicy Homemade hug-plum pickle; Sikarni, Fresh yoghurt flavored with cinnamon sweetened with honey; and Chiya wa Kafi, tea or coffee. Although almost all of the dishes were spicy and hot it was a most enjoyable meal served by attentive staff in an attractive dining room.

A special area was dedicated to the founder of the hotel

Named for Dwarika Das Shrestha, its founder, Dwarika’s Hotel in Kathmandu was outstanding for its combination of luxury features and facilities including a spa, heritage design, well appointed rooms, service and foodie oriented offerings. As I traveled around Nepal I realized how special Dwarika’s was and missed it.

One of the many decorative touches

In addition to the architectural and artistic design features, including original thirteenth century artifacts and replicas, which lent the urban hotel a historic and cultural air I enjoyed Dwarika’s for the understated casual luxury, safety features and delicious food. Should I find myself in Kathmandu again this would be my first option for accommodations. Dwarika’s Hotel, P.O. Box P.O.Box-459, Battisputali, Kathmandu, Nepal, + 977-1 4479488/ 4470770, fax + 977-1 4471379/4478378, http://dwarikas.com, info@dwarikas.com

Article by Laura Scheiber
Photos by Matthew Harris

Galapagos marine iguana on the islet of Las Tintoreras

In October, my travel partner and I went to the Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO World Heritage natural site. We found the islands to be a fascinating place because of the unique wildlife. Throughout our trip we saw a myriad of animals that exist nowhere else on the planet, the outcome of adapting to the unique conditions of these isolated islands over millions of years. It was easy to understand why this “natural laboratory” inspired Charles Darwin’s theory of natural selection and evolution.

Small ground finch, in Garrapatero Bay on Santa Cruz Island

After traveling to Ecuador, getting to the Galapagos Islands entailed an hour and a half flight from Guayaquil, Ecuador. Our land-based tour lasted six days, hopping between Santa Cruz Island, Floreana Island and Isabela Island. From the moment we landed, we noticed that the islands were teeming with wildlife. We spent our first afternoon on the white sandy beaches of Garrapatero Bay on Santa Cruz Island watching pelicans fish in perfect synchrony, while cheeky finches hopped on our legs, attempting to steal a bite of bread from our lunchtime sandwiches.

Throughout our trip, there was wildlife even in the most mundane places. While waiting for a boat on Floreana Island, for example, we shared the dock with sea lions basking in the sun, pelicans overlooking the sea and a curious iguana that wanted to get a closer look at our camera.

Pelicans fishing in Garrapatero Bay on Santa Cruz Island

Our most memorable encounters were with the famous giant Galapagos tortoises. Weighing up to 500 pounds and measuring 1.5 meters in length, it was amazing to think that some were over 130 years old and had lived during Queen Victoria’s reign, two world wars, the invention of computers and spaceflight. Most of the time these gentle giants were content munching slowly on grass, but we unexpectedly came across two tortoises having a particularly “romantic” moment at the Rancho Primicias tortoise reserve on Santa Cruz Island. I will never, ever, forget those prehistoric sounds.

Giant tortoise at Rancho Primicias, Santa Cruz Island

An especially distinctive place that we visited was Las Tintoreras, just off of Isabela Island. Made of lava rock, the islet had a moon-like appearance, made even more surreal by the hundreds of marine iguanas piled on top of one another. These lizards were a good example of evolution in action. In order to survive they have evolved to be semi-aquatic, eating marine algae and staying under water for up to one hour without air.

Las Tintoreras also had a lava-made water channel about three meters wide, where at least twenty white-tip reef sharks rested. Other highlights included snorkeling in crystal clear turquoise water where a sea lion circled my travel partner, and a green sea turtle gracefully swam past me. As we headed back to Isabela Island, we saw some blue-footed boobies, famous to the Galapagos Islands, standing on some rocks.

A blue-footed booby near Isabela Island

Because 97 percent of the Islands are part of the Galapagos National Park, visitors must be accompanied by an accredited naturalist tour guide. To be licensed by the Directorate of the Galapagos National Park, these guides had to first pass an intensive course followed by a difficult exam. We booked our land based trip, Darwin’s Triangle Long 3 islands tour, with Red Mangrove Galapagos & Ecuador Lodges (Avenida De Los Shyris 344 y Eloy Alfaro, Edificio Parque Central, Oficina 503, Ecuador, + 593 2 382 3941 or + 888 254 3190 for toll free calls from the United States, http://www.redmangrove.com/, salesteam@redgalapagos.com). Red Mangrove contracted Duncan Divine, who provided interesting and informed context to the fauna and habitats we observed, on our behalf.

Duncan Divine, our excellent naturalist guide

Since we wanted to see as much of the wildlife as possible, we were pleased that the Red Mangrove itinerary was well-organized and packed full from morning to evening. We spent the first and last evenings on Santa Cruz Island, one night on Floreana Island and two nights on Isabela Island. We were busy during the days visiting tortoise reserves, volcanoes, going on hikes, snorkeling (Red Mangrove provided equipment and wetsuits for the 65 degree water) and relaxing on white sand beaches with turquoise water.

We liked the Red Mangrove tour because it was a well-organized land-based trip and offered a socially responsible approach to tourism on a medium-priced budget. The staff were exceptionally friendly and the accommodations were clean and comfortable. All of the lodges on our tour were oceanfront properties and the rooms included shampoo, conditioner, and shower gel from a dispenser, as well as hand soaps, a blow dryer, a glass jar full of drinking water, and security box. Most of the meals were buffet style, and the lunches and dinners included a fish, meat, and vegetarian dish, several salads, a soup, and desserts.

The Jade Room at Aventura Lodge on Santa Cruz Island, Red Mangrove Galapagos & Ecuador Lodges

Overall our trip to the Galapagos Islands was an unforgettable experience thanks to the unique animals that we were able to see at close range. I would recommend a trip to friends and family who love wildlife and the Red Mangrove Galapagos tours for those who prefer a land-based tour with an emphasis on environmentally friendly tourism over luxury.